Tech Reprise

I have seen some usb rechargeable AA Li-Ion AA 1.5V cells. Don't know if those will be reliable or not.

Yes, saw his videos. He apparently had 3-4 energizers leak on him. Ni-Mh won't work for me as their voltage is too low for my Magic remote which starts to freak out below 1.3V. Energizer Max was supposed to be a better alternative to Duracell Duralock but it seems as if they are the same now. I have opened a new AA pack from 2023, I hope that this one doesn't leak.

Lithium is good but their cost racks up quite a bit as the price for a 4pack is double of the 6pack alkaline.

I had AAA Energizers in my remotes that were old (old as in used not manufacturing date), I thought of keeping them aside if any inexpensive device like my flashlight needed them. I tried to use them after 6months or so and I see that they have leaked juice from the negative terminal. One thing to note is that their wrappers had turned whitish at the negative terminal when I removed them from the remote 6months back. Checked my other 2x AC Remotes and TV Remotes with AAA and all of the batteries had started to leak. Even my Bluetooth Mouse with AA Max was also greasy at the Negative end. The outside foil had turned white in some places. As per my observation, Energizer/Alkaline batteries itself are not suited for low power draw devices like Remotes, Bluetooth/wireless mice, Always on Gamepads like Xbox (as per reddit). How I came to the conclusion, the batteries stored in package didn't leak, nor did the one's in my Logitech gamepad (gamepad turns off when not used for sometime). But the batteries in low draw devices like AC remote, TV Remote and Lenovo BT Mouse all started to get greasy at the negative terminal. All of the batteries had 1.40V+ in them. Heck even the battery wrapper went white in some places. So in total 10x AAA from my Remotes and Fingertip Oximeter and 1x AA from my Lenovo BT Mouse Leaked. [Keep in mind that the leak was not complete rupture of seal but rather the negative terminal becoming greasy slightly swollen (in case of the AAA) and wet]. I am quite fortunate enough to have caught it in time and save all my remotes and mice. Since then I moved my remotes with IR led to Zinc Carbon Eveready and the LG Magic Remote to Panasonic Evolta as it doesn't work without Alkaline Batteries. This is how many batteries I threw away just in time. Image is of my garden bin so is Dirty AF. Don't open image if you are nauseous/allergic to images of dirt and all. Sorry for the long essay and improper grammar if any. If this is wrong section then I will request admins to move it rather than delete it

Got this instead. Serves my purpose.

Works fine for me

This issue seems random, like today it didn't happen. Looks like I need that registry mod.

This Task Host Windows popup is appearing randomly when I shutdown my PC. One day it appears and then it doesn't appear for multiple days. Last known modification to PC was a Windows Update. I have already Uninstalled it. PC doesn't have any Malware in it as it's protected by paid Antivirus which is updated regularly.

My current tester PSU doesn't work when more than 2 fans are connected at once lol. Its a "750W" Psu :3

The NZXT C650 Bronze good enough for a tester PSU? This will only be used to test fans and occasionally run the rgb components of a system to test them.

Try to check in Ryzen Master and Aida64 if there are sudden spikes in temps. Always set pump speed to full speed from Bios.

Monitor your temps with MSI Afterburner in game overlay, looks like a thermal throttle to me.

Well its possible for a Router that old to die suddenly or show signs of dying. You can try two things that includes change the ethernet cable from modem to router and change the router power adapter.

My motherboard was on Bios 4.20 with Ryzen 3500. I wanted to upgrade to a 5600 which requires Bios 4.30. I updated like this 4.20>4.30>4.50 I skipped the 4.25beta and 4.35beta in between. Will there be any issue in CPU support because of skipping beta Bios versions? There were no special instructions from Asrock apart from "To support Renoir/ Ryzen™ 5000 processors, it requires to update the BIOS with Matisse CPU" which I already have and did.

Already solved it. A memory stick became loose.

Update: Might have found a solution. One of my memory sticks came loose somehow, reseated and didn't face the issue again. F**k Y** Asrock and your $h***y Memory slots

Memtest and windows memory diagnostic both clear the test, did a few days back. This led issue started with the Dram led glowing very faintly a few months back then moved to full brightness in a months and now another months later started blinking. Even with a crucial basic memory it stays lit.

Can the crash be linked to this? https://linustechtips.com/topic/1528077-dram-debug-led-is-transmitting-morse-code

My PC crashed suddenly while I was playing games today. Picture and audio got stuck on the game screen and I had to long press the power button to hard restart as nothing was working. There were no BSOD's, I waited for 15-20 seconds for a BSOD but there were none. WhoCrashed also doesn't show any logs. This looked like a full crash rather than the game crash. My GPU and Chipset drivers are old but were stable from the time they were installed, maybe from 2022 Dec.

Okay so it's a Led?

So far, yes. Windows sometimes shows some lag maybe once in a day or three.

My DRAM Led is flickering continuously and seems like its transmitting Morse Code (it's a joke). Any solutions for this problem? Seems like the led is dying or the gate (diode?) responsible for making the LED glow is dying. Note: There is background fan noise so don't watch the video on full volume. VID_20230825_013356.mp4

What does this setting do? This is a new CM MM711 mouse that I bought to replace my Viper Mini.

Thanks. Got the Moto G32 with SD 680.

Which one would be better for me? I need a basic phone which will be used as secondary device and will be used as navigation device for maps and occasionally videos will be watched on it. Currently already using a Xiaomi Midranger as primary device.