Tech Reprise

4 minutes ago, Red_TC said:

I recently rebuilt and re installed all drives windows etc for a “spring cleaning” 

 

and my fresh install of windows 11 pro has decided to install on my slowest HDD and not my 2TB 970 EVO Samsung drive installed in the best slot on the motherboard 

 

what is the best way to swap windows over to that drive and verify that I’m installing on that drive? 
i have 2 Samsung drives the one I’m looking to install on is Disk 3 currently on my system 

 

I don’t have much installed currently so if best case is to manually do it then same question retains 

 

what’s the best way to assure windows installs on the proper drive 

 

It's better to manually do it from start as cloning drives while might seem easier can cause issues down the line. Since yours is a fresh Install it's better to reinstall.

My suggestion would be to only connect the Windows SSD and disconnect all of the other drives you have in your PC and reconnect them after installation is done. If there are no other drives connected then Windows will install to the only drive you connect. 

5 hours ago, demonix00 said:

^That TBH because I just checked my own account and found several unsuccessful sign in attempts from France (somehow from some using internet exploder), Germany, Russia and Indonesia all with incorrect password entered.

 

Just move on and don't worry about it.

Yes, I got it from all over the world. Most likely bot attacks. Anyways I changed the password to something that even I can't remember lol

7 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Likely your email address was exposed in an unrelated breach and now attackers are trying that email and password combination to try and access your account. Hopefully the reason it's unsuccessful is because you're using unique passwords.

For extra protection you should enable MFA (Multi Factor Authentication) to the Microsoft account.

Yes. And most likely the password for my old email was also leaked as per haveibeenpwned. I have MFA/2FA on my primary account but did not have it on my secondary account. 

Good thing that my current password is holding up. Going to change all my old passwords and store them in a hard paper offline instead of on some password manager. 

8 minutes ago, starsmine said:

That just looks like everyone's MS account.
Nothing is compromised, notice the log ins are unsuccessful. 

Yes, saw some people on the web with the same issues. Most likely the email was in a breach and attackers are trying to bruteforce the passwords. 

Anyone else facing mass sign in attempts being made on their Microsoft Account? 
Recently one of my long forgotten account with a possible weak password was accessed from the Philippines and I got an email. I put that account up for closure after a password change.

I then checked my primary account and there are multiple Unsuccessful attempts at sign-in with the reason being "Incorrect Password" and most of them are from Asian countries with a few of them from European countries.
The successful ones are by me or my PC when I log into my PC or some other shit as they are from India and the IP range is known and from my ISP. 

This looks like a bot attack followed by password brute force on my old account. Strange thing is Microsoft didn't notify me that someone tried to access my primary account.

I am trying to install a male to female usb 3.0 extender from Amazon Basics but it doesn't seem to work properly on the front Usb ports of my Case. However it works great on the back usb ports. 

Any idea about the issue? 

Is it because of cable length and power limitation as front USB is already connected to the motherboard via a long cable and me connecting another cable is increasing the overall length and in turn lowering the power at the end of the cable?

I am testing it with a Kingston USB 3.0 thumb drive which is working fine when connected to the back with the extension and when connected to the front with the same cable it's giving USB device not recognised yellow exclamation logo.

On 3/25/2024 at 7:36 PM, NessieDT said:

hmm I don't know much about this but when you open a game open your friends list with shift tab and drag it to the second monitor (if you have one) and see if the issue still persists. If you don't have a second monitor or the issue still persists try reinstalling steam and deleting all the program file made from steam and then reinstall after done and see if it still happens.

I just make myself invisible when I play so no more issues after that. 

Is this a normal behaviour for keyboard rgb at low brightness?

The LED is kind of lagging while changing colour as if it is going up in micro steps. Other than that the keyboard is working fine and the issue can be seen only in the default Spectrum Cycle mode. The issue can be seen when it goes from Magenta to Red/Orange.

This is a Razer Blackwidow V3 TKL.

Recently I RMA'ed my XPG Summoner Keyboard but since the keyboard is EOL I will be getting an SSD in it's place.

The SSD is an XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB. Now I have heard both good and bad things about this ssd.

The SSD costs quite a bit more than the Keyboard in my country. Would it be wise to keep this ssd for my laptop or sell it at a lesser than market price to get another keyboard?

20 minutes ago, Fat Cat11997 said:

The 7700x's specs say that it produces 105w of heat, but does that mean that i wont be bottlenecked using a 105w cooler? I've heard that modern cpus will turbo their clock speeds right before they start overheating, so would i be missing out on performance by getting a cooler that cookie cutter fits the wattage heat output? I am going to be playing a reallly cpu intensive game called beamng drive which has soft-body physics simulation. The current cpu cooler im gonna get has 265W heat dissipation power according to its specs. The link is here: https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Heatpipes-TL-C12B-Generation-Technology/dp/B0BR84PRP8/ref=sr_1_1?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.DovMa-Gpmy303B25u-ov6CVW3Ope_wY_AUMKQzcq8zhXvg6XtwOkWNvcYir4bmYLDirEozS_IxKZBEqhbsy5dngAESqV2wV7Pf0tLGj0um1G7QvV73lLriO5vUZgh95dCHa8rGZ66B4JWQ7sTD4UzPFwoEUgoN-xtSV6IwQw4jO8QpauKqSsBQ-hdwEpsxhF6yNE37i78e6zdUnQIpm-DBCKwUvjn-XucK-tKnCOYbxZ4HClLOOuzSI9ZhSU2g2g5YLX96IHuSGB1khV-xOLRCMqGoVekmVqMXyf9REfurI.O0rEdXAe0-HEbz4ZTU30vjUBnZF2JEZWlCQ3edrDJo4&dib_tag=se&keywords=Thermalright+Frost+Tower+120&qid=1708581786&s=electronics&sr=1-1

That is more than enough. If you want to reduce the heat a bit more then turn off PBO in bios. Less heat but also a bit less performance.

My downloads on Chrome are too slow.

I previously used Free Download Manager but after some recent news about it's Linux distribution servers being compromised I removed it as there is no saying when the window's ones will be compromised too.

Since then I use Chrome but I get awfully low download speeds. I turned on Parallel Downloads in Chrome Flags but it didn't solve the issue. 
With the Download Manager I get 30-31 MB/s average but with Chrome it dips down below 10MB/s. This happens for 90% of the downloads on Chrome. Is there any hidden settings apart from Parallel Downloads to solve this issue? 

My Internet is a healthy 250Mbps connection. Steam, Origin etc gives full download speed.

On 3/5/2024 at 6:34 PM, freeagent said:

Looks okish. One thing that I noted is that with my 58X3D I can never ever hit EDC limit, but you have. PPT and TDC limits I can hit no problem. Have you made your way into the PBO section to enable curve optimizer? If not, I would suggest you make your way there. Should help out with everything. -25 all core should be ok.

Didn't touch anything CPU related except turn on Virtualisation and TPM. 

Will try the curve optimisation and report back. 

I have a AK620 cooling a Ryzen 5700X and the temps I am getting compared to my previous Ryzen 3500 are quite a bit higher around 15-20C in some cases. 

Now I don't know if I am still stuck in a dilemma that this new CPU will also give me lower temps like the 3500. So is this normal for a cooler like AK620, is investing in a better AIO worth it?

I am attaching the max temperature captured during the tests.

Note: PBO is on Auto in Bios. 

56 minutes ago, Murasaki said:

Yeah file itself looks okay and it seems its due to the digital certificate either expiring or something went wrong. Have you not updated Windows in a while? If its updated then you can try running DISM or SFC to repair problems with system files. But for sure we know it isn't anything dodgy, just windows being windows.

This is a clean install (Feb 2024) from a bootable usb drive made in December. SFC finds corrupt files but can't repair them, didn't try the DISM command yet.

On 3/3/2024 at 4:42 AM, Murasaki said:

SHA256 is different from what I have, mind uploading msdelta.dll for me to take a peak to compare?

Sure. 

The digital signature is there but somehow it seems corrupted. 
 

msdelta.dll

This is the detail from Hitman Pro

Authenticode    Invalid
Entropy    6.6
Product    Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Publisher    Microsoft Corporation
Description    Microsoft Patch Engine
Version    5.00
Copyright    © Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.
RSA Key Size    2048
LanguageID    1033
SHA-256    13413648AAC93F6EB10FB451DB553ACAF8CCF7E46669D5D1066D046853E6E35A

Scoring (23.0)
Program is altered or corrupted since it was code signed by its author. This is typical for malware and pirated software.
The file is located in a folder that contains core operating system files from Windows. This is not typical for most programs and is only common to system tools, drivers and hacking utilities.
Time indicates that the file appeared recently on this computer.
The file is protected by Windows File Protection (WFP). This is typical for critical Windows system files.
 

On 3/1/2024 at 2:31 AM, SpookyCitrus said:

That's a common system file, you'll want to double check and make sure it's still the original, but not surprised Hitman Pro is kind of notorious for flagging system files or non-malicious files as bad. Personally I don't use Hitman Pro or Kaspersky, both are just bleh.

 

Malwarebytes and Windows Defender for the win. 

It's not infected as per virustotal or kaspersky or Windows Defender. 

On 3/1/2024 at 1:25 AM, Murasaki said:

I have this file aswell so its part of the OS. "Microsoft Patch Engine" is the DLL's description. From the Hitman Pro's update log it looks like it thinks its an infected system file. While im not sure if thats a false positive heres what mine is on Win10 22H2: FileVersion 5.0.1.1, Product Version 5.00, 435kb, is digitally signed by Microsoft.

Yep, mine is same like yours. Looks like its a false detection. HitmanPro also detects punkbuster as suspicious.

I have a dll file marked as suspicious by HitmanPro but undetected by Kaspersky Premium. Can anyone tell me what file this is? Also why is this marked as suspicious?

19 hours ago, Needfuldoer said:

That happens if there's anything deselected under the "Startup" tab.

 

 

That's nothing to worry about, as long as your PC works fine.

 

Yep, have nearly half of the useless programs disabled under startup.

Somehow my startup selection under Msconfig is set to selective instead of Normal. 

Is this a normal occurrence? I didn't change any settings here, I just stopped some Adobe services and startup programs from Task Manager. 

5 minutes ago, PDifolco said:

Usually the higher one 

So Aida64 it is for idle, as on load all show similar temps. 

1 hour ago, PDifolco said:

Ryzen Master only shows average CCD temp, while the others show an estimated "hotspot" temp called TCtl/TDie, which is always higher

HWInfo shows both, and you can see that the second line "average" is same than Ryzen master's temp 

 

So which temperature should we tell people when they ask what my CPU temperature is?

After I installed my new CPU I was monitoring my temperature in these softwares and I am seeing that the temperature in Aida64 for CPU is always higher than ~5C in idle. On load (Benchmark/Stress) they are within 0.5C of each other. Is there any setting in AIDA64 that can correct this behaviour as I use that for my stress test and temperature monitoring on desktop for max time?

Afaik AMD Adrenalin uses the same monitoring suite as Ryzen master so that can be taken as the Control.

I recently got a 5700x and wanted to know if PBO is a worthy thing to turn on. The default is on Auto in Gigabyte Bios.

Now I ran Cinebench on both PBO auto and enabled.

Auto

Score- 13743 (4.21Ghz sustained speed)

Max Recorded Temperature- 63°C

Enabled

Score- 14739 (4.45Ghz sustained speed)

Max Recorded Temperature- 76°C

So is worth it to keep it on enabled considering I was playing games on a much older 3500 and they were running okay except some titles which demanded more cores. Also do the scores seem okay?

Cooler- AK620

Motherboard- B550 Aorus Elite V2

Memory- TridentZ RGB 3600 32gb (8x4)