Tech Reprise

Another update. I removed the TechYesCity manual UC+UV as it was making the PPT and EDC too high and I removed eco mode too as the difference in temps while gaming was not too much and moreover it was showing clock stretching in some cases. For the time being I am letting it stay on factory settings and not fiddling as I will play at night time when it's a bit cooler plus it's too much of a headache for me.

Update: I turned off the manual underclocking I did previously and turned on Eco Mode in bios and now temps are now lower and performance only took a minor hit by 687 points in Cinebench R23.

My main goal is to get a lower temperature as it's peak summer here with outside temperatures reaching 42-45C. A slight hit in performance is fine for me as long as the difference is not too much.

I am actually trying out multiple methods to see which one feels best. Only had limited time to try this method out, might try researching PBO optimisation later as it needs more tweaking and there are no definite 5700x guides out there and most are for 5800x which should also work as they are essentially similar.

I underclocked and undervolted my CPU by following Tech Yes City's guide of setting fixed CPU Core ratio @40.00 and Offset voltage -0.096 (I set CPU Vcore to Normal and Dynamic VCore to -0.096) and now my CPU temps are much lower by around 16C on a Deepcool AK620. Previously it used to hit 78-80C while gaming on a ambient temperature of 37C but now it hits only 62C while gaming. Cinebench scores decreased by only 104 points. Now I have a few questions: Is the above method safe? My CPU maximum voltage as per Hwinfo64 was 1.006V which seems a bit low. Is this normal? After setting Core Ratio to 40.00 the CPU doesn't seem to downclock at idle and monitoring softwares always show 3998Mhz. Is this normal or does it downclock and the software doesn't catch it? Where should I look to check if it downclocks in idle mode?

It's better to manually do it from start as cloning drives while might seem easier can cause issues down the line. Since yours is a fresh Install it's better to reinstall. My suggestion would be to only connect the Windows SSD and disconnect all of the other drives you have in your PC and reconnect them after installation is done. If there are no other drives connected then Windows will install to the only drive you connect.

Yes, I got it from all over the world. Most likely bot attacks. Anyways I changed the password to something that even I can't remember lol

Yes. And most likely the password for my old email was also leaked as per haveibeenpwned. I have MFA/2FA on my primary account but did not have it on my secondary account. Good thing that my current password is holding up. Going to change all my old passwords and store them in a hard paper offline instead of on some password manager.

Yes, saw some people on the web with the same issues. Most likely the email was in a breach and attackers are trying to bruteforce the passwords.

Anyone else facing mass sign in attempts being made on their Microsoft Account? Recently one of my long forgotten account with a possible weak password was accessed from the Philippines and I got an email. I put that account up for closure after a password change. I then checked my primary account and there are multiple Unsuccessful attempts at sign-in with the reason being "Incorrect Password" and most of them are from Asian countries with a few of them from European countries. The successful ones are by me or my PC when I log into my PC or some other shit as they are from India and the IP range is known and from my ISP. This looks like a bot attack followed by password brute force on my old account. Strange thing is Microsoft didn't notify me that someone tried to access my primary account.

I am trying to install a male to female usb 3.0 extender from Amazon Basics but it doesn't seem to work properly on the front Usb ports of my Case. However it works great on the back usb ports. Any idea about the issue? Is it because of cable length and power limitation as front USB is already connected to the motherboard via a long cable and me connecting another cable is increasing the overall length and in turn lowering the power at the end of the cable? I am testing it with a Kingston USB 3.0 thumb drive which is working fine when connected to the back with the extension and when connected to the front with the same cable it's giving USB device not recognised yellow exclamation logo.

I just make myself invisible when I play so no more issues after that.

Is this a normal behaviour for keyboard rgb at low brightness? The LED is kind of lagging while changing colour as if it is going up in micro steps. Other than that the keyboard is working fine and the issue can be seen only in the default Spectrum Cycle mode. The issue can be seen when it goes from Magenta to Red/Orange. This is a Razer Blackwidow V3 TKL. VID_20240313_194049.mp4

Recently I RMA'ed my XPG Summoner Keyboard but since the keyboard is EOL I will be getting an SSD in it's place. The SSD is an XPG SX8200 Pro 1TB. Now I have heard both good and bad things about this ssd. The SSD costs quite a bit more than the Keyboard in my country. Would it be wise to keep this ssd for my laptop or sell it at a lesser than market price to get another keyboard?

That is more than enough. If you want to reduce the heat a bit more then turn off PBO in bios. Less heat but also a bit less performance.

My downloads on Chrome are too slow. I previously used Free Download Manager but after some recent news about it's Linux distribution servers being compromised I removed it as there is no saying when the window's ones will be compromised too. Since then I use Chrome but I get awfully low download speeds. I turned on Parallel Downloads in Chrome Flags but it didn't solve the issue. With the Download Manager I get 30-31 MB/s average but with Chrome it dips down below 10MB/s. This happens for 90% of the downloads on Chrome. Is there any hidden settings apart from Parallel Downloads to solve this issue? My Internet is a healthy 250Mbps connection. Steam, Origin etc gives full download speed.

Didn't touch anything CPU related except turn on Virtualisation and TPM. Will try the curve optimisation and report back.

I have a AK620 cooling a Ryzen 5700X and the temps I am getting compared to my previous Ryzen 3500 are quite a bit higher around 15-20C in some cases. Now I don't know if I am still stuck in a dilemma that this new CPU will also give me lower temps like the 3500. So is this normal for a cooler like AK620, is investing in a better AIO worth it? I am attaching the max temperature captured during the tests. Note: PBO is on Auto in Bios.

This is a clean install (Feb 2024) from a bootable usb drive made in December. SFC finds corrupt files but can't repair them, didn't try the DISM command yet.

Sure. The digital signature is there but somehow it seems corrupted. msdelta.dll

This is the detail from Hitman Pro Authenticode Invalid Entropy 6.6 Product Microsoft® Windows® Operating System Publisher Microsoft Corporation Description Microsoft Patch Engine Version 5.00 Copyright © Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved. RSA Key Size 2048 LanguageID 1033 SHA-256 13413648AAC93F6EB10FB451DB553ACAF8CCF7E46669D5D1066D046853E6E35A Scoring (23.0) Program is altered or corrupted since it was code signed by its author. This is typical for malware and pirated software. The file is located in a folder that contains core operating system files from Windows. This is not typical for most programs and is only common to system tools, drivers and hacking utilities. Time indicates that the file appeared recently on this computer. The file is protected by Windows File Protection (WFP). This is typical for critical Windows system files.

It's not infected as per virustotal or kaspersky or Windows Defender.

Yep, mine is same like yours. Looks like its a false detection. HitmanPro also detects punkbuster as suspicious.

I have a dll file marked as suspicious by HitmanPro but undetected by Kaspersky Premium. Can anyone tell me what file this is? Also why is this marked as suspicious?

Yep, have nearly half of the useless programs disabled under startup.