Tech Reprise

I am actually trying out multiple methods to see which one feels best. Only had limited time to try this method out, might try researching PBO optimisation later as it needs more tweaking and there are no definite 5700x guides out there and most are for 5800x which should also work as they are essentially similar.

Update: I turned off the manual underclocking I did previously and turned on Eco Mode in bios and now temps are now lower and performance only took a minor hit by 687 points in Cinebench R23.

^That TBH because I just checked my own account and found several unsuccessful sign in attempts from France (somehow from some using internet exploder), Germany, Russia and Indonesia all with incorrect password entered.
 
Just move on and don't worry about it.

That just looks like everyone's MS account.
Nothing is compromised, notice the log ins are unsuccessful. 

Likely your email address was exposed in an unrelated breach and now attackers are trying that email and password combination to try and access your account. Hopefully the reason it's unsuccessful is because you're using unique passwords.

For extra protection you should enable MFA (Multi Factor Authentication) to the Microsoft account.

I would imagine this is normal, as when the LED's are at a lower brightness it is harder to make the transition between the colours smooth, due to the smaller range of colours available for the LED to switch between.

Didn't touch anything CPU related except turn on Virtualisation and TPM. 
Will try the curve optimisation and report back. 

Looks okish. One thing that I noted is that with my 58X3D I can never ever hit EDC limit, but you have. PPT and TDC limits I can hit no problem. Have you made your way into the PBO section to enable curve optimizer? If not, I would suggest you make your way there. Should help out with everything. -25 all core should be ok.

Yeah file itself looks okay and it seems its due to the digital certificate either expiring or something went wrong. Have you not updated Windows in a while? If its updated then you can try running DISM or SFC to repair problems with system files. But for sure we know it isn't anything dodgy, just windows being windows.

Usually the higher one 

Ryzen Master only shows average CCD temp, while the others show an estimated "hotspot" temp called TCtl/TDie, which is always higher
HWInfo shows both, and you can see that the second line "average" is same than Ryzen master's temp 
 

No reason to not keep it on tbh. First thing I did when i got my 5700x

Thanks a lot. 

the 5700x is a hotter chip than the 3500. It might have the same tdp but it has more cores packed into one area. It's a perfectly fine temperature and an inscrease in temp when going to a new series is defo normal

totally normal. This isn't high at all and not close to the max, about 20 degrees below. you could try reseating the cooler but don't worry about these temps, they're not high

Update: Got the 5700X, 5600X was just 5$ less than 5700X so was not worth it.

Ones made for the Carbide 100r.
 
 
If you message their support, they might be able to tell you the dimensions.

You should never fill a custom loop upto the brim as hot water=increased pressure=premature degradation of the parts and O-Rings and sometimes cracking of the reservoir (The very reason some Deepcool AIO's were bursting).
Always leave a bit empty as per manufacturer recommendations. 

You should never fill a custom loop upto the brim as hot water=increased pressure=premature degradation of the parts and O-Rings and sometimes cracking of the reservoir (The very reason some Deepcool AIO's were bursting).
Always leave a bit empty as per manufacturer recommendations. 

That's a good way to spend more than you need though, as they only ever test a tiny subset of RAM sticks out there.
 
Part of the point of XMP and EXPO is to not need to only use motherboard validated RAM.  For example on my 7800X3D I couldn't, as none of the 32GB sticks validated are actually officially sold in the UK.

Yes, I live 2 houses away from the transformer. I have measured the N-G voltage and it stays between around 2-3V during day and remains around 1V at night (currently 0.990V). Also I thought that 0V on N-G is a good thing but as per power requirements of my country it's not that good and means open neutral. 
 
I also contacted the power supply company as suggested above and they said that 3V on N-G is fine plus they did some extra tweaking at the High Voltage substation and the occasional brown-outs are also gone.

Pretty much normal if you're close to the transformer.
I'm running on 165V rn, my little step-up transformer AVRs are tired, and yes it should be 240 as well 🫠

Depends on your Ambient temps for 28C-30C its good idle temp. Below 25C ambient it's a bit on the higher side but still decent.

That makes sense I will do that! I did run malwarebytes the other day and had no results so I agree it's probably the HDD I will update the thread when I get a new drive. Thanks for all the help!

Sfc didn't find any errors and the disk is also fine, health@98%.
Will try to do a force update to Win 11 before I reinstall.