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VenomizerX

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Everything posted by VenomizerX

  1. Seem to have found the issue. I downgraded bios to the latest AGESA 1.0.0.6 and closed iCUE & discord in the background and the voltages drop back down to 0.719v for short moments in idle. Not as frequent as before W 1903 but at least idling is back somehow.
  2. So this is weird. Before AGESA 1.0.0.4 and before Win1903 ryzen was performing as expected. Then boom! Messes everything up with downvolting and downclocking.... Anyone know a workaround?
  3. CPB in the bios can only be set to auto or disable so of course I went with auto
  4. Per core usage usually averages around 5%-15% give or take. Temps won't be too low since I usually run 35c-45c idle but when it's hot or a/c is off then temps hit 40c-50c on idle.
  5. Virtualization is enabled though. I may check on that a bit later. I'll update when I get results
  6. I never enabled MSI gaming/OC mode since it sets the voltage at constant 1.45v and locks clock speed to 4.35GHz
  7. Title says it all basically. Running on W10 1909 on a 2700x and a MSI B450 Gaming Plus (AGESA 1.0.0.4 Patch B). PBO enabled with -0.1 negative voltage offset and CL14 3200MHz RAM. C-states and Cool-n-quiet enabled in the bios as well. Spread spectrum disabled. The thing constantly clocks around 4.15 GHz on idle at average of 1.38v with windows balanced power profile. Setting profile to high performance with minimum processor state set to 5% makes the chip run at around 4.25GHz idle but with average of 1.42v (still not downclocking as well). Any ideas for a fix or workaround? Wouldn't want to run the thing on power saver lol throttling would be too real. Windows Balanced: Modded High Performance:
  8. if it is the wire coming loose, how do you fix that without possibly removing the stabs altogether?
  9. Tried that already multiple times to no avail, so much so that the stems posts of the spacebar keycap started having hairline cracks already.
  10. I have a K95 plat and the right side of the spacebar when fully pressed feels like there is something that cushions it at the end of the key press. Left side stabs aren't like that and end with a solid thock unlike the right side. Because of this, the spacebar rattles and doesn't feel consistent. I already lubed the stabs using dielectric grease. It might be the stabs causing the problem but what exactly is wrong with them? I did notice though that the right spacebar stab sits slighlty more loose and higher than the the one on the left. But I don't know how to fix it if it is the case.
  11. Then probably getting a replacement is all you're left to do...
  12. Well Asus does make good cards although a bit overpriced especially on some models. MSI's cards aren't that bad either just overpriced. You can get a Gigabyte card which is affordable on specific models and still get the performance expected.
  13. Yep had the same problem with a 8 year old hitachi drive and had to ditch it whereas my 11 year old samsung drive still lives on. That's the thing with drives. You never know when they will fail and the best solution for a failing drive is to migrate your data to a new drive.
  14. That's a lot of RGB on one header lol. If the indicator is staying on even in windows, then why isn't anything problematic? It should be indicating a problem with the display or the graphics card but it seems that it's only stuck on.
  15. Try manually installing the drivers for the hub in Device Manager if the hub still gets detected by your laptop.
  16. Reallocated sectors on a HDD is often a sign of a surely failing drive. Have you checked SMART using other tools like CrystalDiskInfo?
  17. $300-$400 you'll find some decent mid-rangers from known brands (like Samsung) and even some ones with high-end specs for the price from lesser known brands (like Nubia or Xiaomi).
  18. Can you provide the error code? What kind of error is it?
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