Jump to content

Edvisss

Member
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Edvisss's Achievements

  1. I bought a PC from a random person, and he gave me an SSD which apparently "isn't working for him", for free. I plugged it in, it seems fine, it even launches windows, and works without issues. I even tested it out with HDD Sentinel, it's at 100% health and performance, and no errors at all. The SSD I got is Patriot Burst 240GB, it's a sata3 SSD. Now, when I tried to re-install windows onto it, I got an error that the SSD is in MBR, and it should be in GPT. So I googled how to do it, shift + F10 to open console, diskpart, select disk, clean, convert gpt - and after all of this, it gives me Virtual Disk Service error. Then I tried to plug it in as an external drive to my laptop, to manually format it, and it formats sucessfuly - untill I add a letter again, and all the files are back. Then I tried Disk Management from windows, tried to delete volume, format drive, and it never becomes unallocated. It only loses it's information, it's still filled with files, but it no longer even registers that it's NTFS. After I unplug it, and plug it back again, everything is there once again. After that I tried various applications as AOMEI partition assistant, and I tried to convert from MBR to GPT there, and I get an error code 6, which didn't lead to anywhere when I googled it. Then I tried to wipe entirely the entire disk using the same application, and it went into preOS mode, it slowly but surely deleted everything, yet once back into windows, all the files were still there. Then I just selected everything inside the drive, and just pressed delete - most of the stuff got deleted, but once I hit refresh, everything was once again back. I even thought that it might be read-only SSD, and I disabled all attributes for that. I've probably spent over 3 hours in CMD alone, trying so so many commands, usually most of the stuff comes out sucessfuly, but nothing changes. So, does anyone know what could be an issue, if various applications that test the SSD say it's totally fine and working normally, yet it obviously isn't? What's weird, that after doing all this messing around, it still boots into windows fine, yet there's a password on the account, so I can't really do anything while being booted on that actual SSD into windows.
  2. Well, whatever it fixed - it wasn't the clock. It still shows wrong time as of today, I still need to manually press "sync now" button, in order for it to be synced. By now, I'm starting to think this might be a motherboard issue, and that was just a coincidence - that this problem showed up right after a Windows February update. Unless, you have any other advice?
  3. Yes, I did revert to optimized defaults, and also yes - bios also shows wrong time if I boot firstly into it, before windows.
  4. It did find something and fixed it - but at the time I can't know if this was the clock error. PC needs tu be turned off for more than 4 hours for it to lose the track of time, and just use the last recorded time as a starting point. There is a log in CBS folder, yet no clue where to look for anything time related. Will update probably tomorrow, thanks for the suggestion!
  5. So, I seem to have a very annoying issue, which has been bugging me for a month now. The time in windows is wrong. The motherboard is MSI MPG x570 Gaming Pro Carbon Wifi It shows the correct time, if I press "sync now" button each and every time after boot, until the moment I turn the PC off. After I turn it back on - it shows the time as what it was at the exact point the PC was turned off. So, if I turn off my PC at 3:12AM, after I turn it on again 12 hours later, ir will still shows 3:12AM and go from there. But it also shows the wrong time in the BIOS itself, it also shows the time the PC was last turned on, and goes from there. -I've replaced the CMOS battery twice - bought 2 at different price ranges, both did not change anything -Updated the BIOS -Updated Windows -Ran anti-malware and anti-virus programs -Changed the values in services.msc from manual to automatic, and vice-versa -Changed the values in directory to sync every 12 hours, every 4 hours, 1 hour, 1 second (tried everything regarding with synchronization intervals) -Downloaded 3rd party apps to try to manually sync to a 3rd party time server -Did lots of various things in CMD, including of course with w32tm and various other things I found on google to try -Changed from windows time to time.nist.gov and back to windows time -Timezone is set correctly All of these did absolutely nothing. Windows support agent told me to "Just re-install windows". This all started happening at the start of February, when Windows rolled out a February update - after which the time got messed up. I undid the update, but the time never got fixed. I checked the drivers, everything seems to be working normally, and everything on the motherboard is also looking correct physically, everything is in their right places. I'm lost by now, no idea what could be causing this. Any advice?
  6. I have a R7 2700X CPU, and I've been using stock cooler for the past few months, paired with MSI GTX 1060. The CPU on max load never hit 80C, the maximum I saw it was on 78C. But, I recently switched to MSI RTX 2080 Ti, the GPU on max load reaches about 75C, but the back plate of it seems to get way hotter than that, heating up the CPU and RAM. I have 5 case fans, 2 blowing in from the front, 1 blowing out to the back, and 2 blowing out from the top. Yet still, the CPU while gaming gradually keeps getting hotter and hotter, about 1C every 5 minutes. I've already been at the point, where the CPU reached it's maximum temperature and simply shut down my PC. A friend of mine uses Corsair H115i RGB PLATINUM liquid cooler with the same CPU, and the same GPU. And for him, it does not go over 65C, ever. But I am not so sure about liquid coolers, never had one, and I've heard that a lot of them fail or leak, ruining other components. Not sure if I should take this risk. So, does anyone know any possible air coolers for this issue, that would look just as nice as the stock one, or even better - and do the job better? Or maybe can suggest a liquid cooler? My case is - Phanteks Eclipse P400S Picture below, of how it currently is looking (And the glass is dirty, because I keep taking the glass panel off, so that more air could come in and CPU not reach 95C)
  7. I am using 1803 though, not 1809.
  8. I will try to upgrade windows, and if that does not work... Well, buying another set of 32G RAM, within a few months. I spent like 400$+ on RAM already, will have to spend like 300$ more I guess, if that fails.
  9. Yet after changing the GPU back to 1060, no more death screens. I am going to try to update to version 1903, and see how that goes. If that does not fix it, then I have no idea what will. RAM do work fine at full load, with 1060.
  10. I tried it with a 1060, on the same windows, with same other specs, and nothing ever happened. On 100% usage, not a single BSOD. This only started happening after I installed the new GPU. The RAM ran fine for the time I had it, and memtest shows 0 erros on it. Literally the only thing I changed, is the GPU. I did go back once to 1060, worked with it for 24 hours - and no problems. No worries, did use DDU for the replacement, and then again after I switched back to 2080 ti.
  11. I just changed the Ram, a month or so ago I kept getting a BSOD because of the RAM I used prior to these, you can check the topic I had before, regarding BSOD as well. Everything is basically brand new. PSU and MB have only seen a few months of usage, RAM even less, because I bought it about 2 weeks before getting 2080 ti. PSU should be powerful enough for it. And it does not always crash, I could play for 24 hours or render a video for 6 hours without any problems, and other times, it crashes withing seconds. And I added a photo of MSI afterburner stats after using the GPU at about 95% I am thinking of upgrading OS version to 1903, not sure if it's a good idea though.
  12. I just upgraded from MSI 1060 to MSI RTX 2080 Ti Gaming X 11G, and I seem to be having issues. I am not sure what could be causing this, I did use DDU to remove old drivers, and installed manually new drivers several times, tried clean and express installations. And once in a while, while gaming or rendering a video, I get a BSOD. But this is different - I have a 3 monitor setup, and when I had different issues that caused BSOD, they would not keep my 2 other monitors on, but this time - it did. Everything seemed to get a filter, so I assume this has something to do with the GPU. Windows version is 1803, at least people say this version supports RTX. MB: MSI x470 Gaming Plus CPU: R7 2700X RAM: Adata XPG SPECTRIX RGB DDR4 32GB (4x8GB) 3000MHz PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G+ 850W, 80 PLUS Gold Any ideas?
  13. I did explain that to them, and they won't send a replacement after they received this one, and tested it out themselves. If it turns out that it's fine for them, they'd send it back to me, and I'd be at square one, yet losing a month of work and money. Don't want to risk it. The last option I currently have is to take my PC to a repair store that I know is going to be expensive, if no one else had this problem like me, and wouldn't be able to help me. Never actually even had to ask for help on forums, I was never this lost with my own PC in my entire life.
  14. It's 4th stick in general. Any of them could be the 4th stick, and it will cause a BSOD. They all work when inserted as 1, and all of them work as kits of 2. Even works when I have 3 sticks installed.
  15. Did ask MSI themselves, I tried everything they asked me to do. The only solution left with them, to send the MB directly to their warehouse to some other country, and that would take ~a month for it to proccess. I can't live without a PC for a month, as I am working from home. Haven't tried other set of ram, no one I knows has the ones that would be compatible with my PC. And not sure about the voltage allowance, after messing with this on my older PC, I managed to ruin the ram overall.
×