The Finninja

RTX 3060 Ti and the monitor is Samsung odyssey G7 S28bg700. Just checked that rebooting the Pc does indeed fix the issue but also defeats the entire purpose of turning off sleep in the first place.

Hey, I'm struggling with an issue that causes the pc crash when it tries to wake from sleep after getting new monitors. I have another post on the matter with more info. The prominent advice was to turn off sleep. So I just leave the pc on overnight and manually turn off the monitors. now the 4k 144 Hz display decides to boot at a stupid low resolution and won't go back up to 4k. Drivers are up to date and this whole episode with these new monitors is really starting to feel cursed.

Thanks, I'll give it a go. Seems silly that sleep breaks from a modern monitor but that's ghe greatness of Windows I guess. Still curious what causes it though.

Hey, I recently moved from having a 32 and a 28 inch 4k 60 Hz monitors to Samsung odyssey G7 28" 4k 144Hz by replacing the 32 inch model. I also bought the samsung g34 for simracing. The g34 arrived first and after installing it I noticed the behaviour I'm talking about where the pc tries to wake from sleep and the monitors turn on but they don't get any signal. At first this was unplugging and replugging the DP cable got the signal to come back but then that stopped working. This behaviour has continued with the G7. What fixed it for a few days was making the monitor shut down time and pc go to sleep times the same. But the issue has come back and gotten way worse because not only does it happen everytime it also seems to either freeze or crash the pc(3060 ti, ryzen 5 5600, 48 GB RAM, asus tuf b450m wifi). And it has happened now a couple of times during the reboot. I've tried switching the DP cables between the ones that came in the box and the ones I already have. I have unplugged the G34 so the only monitors I have plugged in are the old 28" 4k 60 Hz and the G7. I've updated the drivers a couple of times now with no change. I don't really even know where to start fixing this issue beyond those simple changes. I also saw a suggestion on some forum for using 60 Hz but like replugging the DP I'd be hesitant to call that a fix.

I'm looking to make my pc more quiet for music stuff but I'd also like to have my components uncooked after gaming during the summer. The P600S seems really good but because I move my pc around a couple of times a year I'd like a smaller alternative. I am also thinking of buying a 280 radiator. The hope would be to couple this with my 3060ti's zero fan speed until 56C to have occasions of complete silence. My current case is an mATX Silverstone PS15, which is a "mesh" case, or at the very least it has a ton of holes and even at its quietest I can still definetly hear it through open back headphones while mixing for example. That is why I'm a bit weary of getting a mesh case. Although proper fan control and watercooling might(?) make a good bit of difference. Thanks for any suggestions and have a nice day.

Would that explain the issues with 8/16 Gb thumb drives? The PSU is connected to the motherboard with 20/24-pin(can't remember which but it's the appropriate connector for the board) and only a 4-pin connector to an 8-pin. So maybe that's the issue?

Everything works as intended, and also on USB2 ports storage devices work normally, but you know... slowly... 'cause USB2. And I also have USB Sticks I that I know work that behave exactly the same way.

Back in early Autumn last year I updated my aging pre-built HP with an Asrock B450M Pro4 motherboard, Ryzen 5 2600, 16 GB DDR4 and kingston M.2 NVME SSd (Which won't boot to windows/windows won't install properly, but that's a separate issue). After updating the hardware, none of the USB3 ports(case or motherboard) work with storage devices. They don't show up in BIOS/UEFI and of course they don't show up in OS. When I plug in my toshiba 1T external harddrive the blue LED for USB3 lights up and the drive spins up. But it's not registered by the pc and eventually stops. All other types work like mouse, keyboard, external soundcard and so on. I've tried updating BIOS, enabling everything that says USB in UEFI, updating the drivers in OS and I'm about to try to install windows fhreshly on to a SATA SSD when it arrives('cause the M.2 isn't working). But I've installed windows fhreshly a couple of times on the current HDD and it hasn't fixed the issue, could the problem be a faulty motherboard?

No positive change, as its done previously: Upon rebooting it just tries to restart the installation process and now when checking uefi the m.2 no longer shows up

Oh and I've had a guy Who knows More about these things try using a DVD but that didn't work. I think he said that there was driver issue which he could've remedied using the disk that came with the Motherboard. Now at home I've used said disk and gotten to this point. OK yeah, I've tried that a couple of times but For the sake of trying I'll try that, again... See if it works this time.

I'm using USB which I made via the software you van download straight from Microsoft website, I believe its called a mediacreationtool or something along those lines. About the boot Mode I'm not 100% sure but it should be UEFI. (I would like to know how to check)

Oh yea, multiple times. This I believe is the closest I've gotten since it actually shows all the files for windows 10 but for some reason the system seems to treat it as if there isn't a windows 10 install on it.

well it boots to freeCOM 0.84, might actually be called FreeDOS, not sure

I recently upgraded my CPU to ryzen 5 2600, motherboard to Asrock B450m pro4 and RAM to DDR4. Alongside I purchased A Kingston A1000 240Gb M.2 Nvme Drive. After now weeks of no success I believe I'm really close now. If I boot off my HDD and go to File explorer they both show as local drives. If I Boot from the M.2 it boots to freeCOM. So if I've understood correctly I just need make the M.2 bootable and it should work... so how do I?