Sonefiler

To be clear, this only really happens on maps like Nuke or Vertigo, laggier maps, when I'm doing stuff like watching twitch streams at the same time on my second monitor, and especially when I'm next to a smoke. But, if this is still unusual, do you have any advice on what I should be looking at to fix this? I don't have an OC motherboard, unfortunately, and I have an ITX build so I don't know if I'm comfortable with OCing, especially since I don't really know what I'm doing.

I'm looking to upgrade my CPU to get better FPS in CSGO. I'm currently on a i5-9600K, 64GB RAM, and a GTX 1080, so I'm looking to upgrade my CPU most likely. I want minimum 150FPS consistently with low settings 1080p, even on the laggier maps; sometimes my FPS dips low enough that it's below the refresh rate of my monitor (especially when I also have a lot of other stuff open like a twitch stream or music or whatever), which I want to avoid at all costs. Would getting an i7-9700K be an effective way to reach this goal, or is it too little of an upgrade from my current setup? I'd like to spend as little money as possible on this. I use this PC for literally nothing else, so don't worry about any other use cases.

For those on the internet looking for a solution to this problem: I bought this USB to SATA adapter from Amazon. The power plug for my drive was still in perfect condition, so it stabilized the plug in a way that I was able to transfer my files off safely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9CKV7X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't ignore "any suggestions" given to me, I just said I'm uncomfortable with this method.

I don't own a soldering iron and have never used one before. Not sure how this destructive method would be the safer option

I was initially thinking I would just try and hold the connector in place while the data all transfers off, since I thought this would be the easiest way. If, though, I lost full contact at some point during the transfer process, would there be any risk of damage to my original drive, or the data on it?

I'm really not very confident in my ability to solder. Is this the only solution?

Hi all, I have a SSD that I know works perfectly, except that I broke the SATA data plug on it. Specifically, I accidentally broke the plastic around the pins on the port, and they're stuck inside my cable now. I know that data recovery services are usually ridiculously expensive, so I'm looking for a solution for this that I can do at home, if possible. I've already bought a new drive off Amazon, I just need to find a way to transfer all this data over safely. I tried just using the cable that the plastic broke off inside of and slotting the pins into there, but the pins bent a bit when the plastic broke off in the first place so the pins aren't slotting in nicely, and I didn't want to try using force since that seemed like a bad idea. Has anybody ever had this issue? If so, how did you resolve it? Or have you heard of a solution to this issue before? Thank you! Edit: If it matters, the drive is an A-Data Premiere Pro SP900 256GB, and from what I understand it is out of warranty (I've had it for around 6 years).

I have another question. Since I'm switching my boot drive from my 2.5" 256GB SSD to a M.2 512GB SSD, can I just copy everything over somehow? If so, what's the best way to do that?

Oh, I see. Is there a way that I can transfer my windows license to my new PC?

What do you mean by "reactivate"?

Hey guys. This is kind of a broad spectrum question, so sorry if this isn't the perfect place to put this post. So recently I built a second computer (long story), and since I now have two computers, I want to combine them into one great build. In my old build, I have two 2.5" SSDs (one with Windows boot) and a 4TB HDD. In my new build, I have a M.2 PCIe SSD, which is also the boot device. I want to move all my drives to the new PC, but I don't want to wipe their data. I'd rather keep what I have and just move it over in the new computer. However, I don't know how to do this. Is it safe to just plug in my drives into the new computer? What do I do about the old windows boot on my 2.5" SSD? Thanks for the help!

I got it working! Just wanted to let people know how I got this working, in case anybody in the future wanted to do this: To hook up the relay switch, I wired two Molex connector pins, the +12V and a Ground pin (seems like it depends on the power supply you're using as to which wire corresponds to which), to the relay switch. I wired the +12V (Middle pin) from the fan header as the actual switching signal. Then I used motherboard fan curve adjustments to make the fan stay at 0RPM until 45 degrees, then have it go to full throttle!

I want to be able to just switch between the "fan" being 100% on and 100% off, on the fly.

I'm not sure if you misread. I could be getting something super wrong since I'm not very good with electronics and stuff, but my plan is to toggle a relay switch using the fan header

so my plan to use the fan port as GPIO with Speedfan should work, right?

Awesome, thank you so much!

Hey guys. I'm trying to figure out how fan headers work. From what I've researched online, I understand that a 3-pin fan header consists of +12V/5V, Ground. and the Tachometric signal. I also understand that the tachometric signal isn't necessary, and if it isn't used, the fan will just run at full speed. My question is: If I only used two pins, would I be able to still turn off the fan? I know that I wouldn't be able to control the RPM, I just want to know if I could shut it off altogether. The reason is that I want to use the fan header with a relay switch and essentially use the fan header as GPI/O. Thanks guys!

Thank you, I will look into this!

Yeah, this is kind of the idea I was thinking of. I was looking at this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Temperature-Thermostatic-Applicable-Miniature/dp/B07GBS38SW/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cr_simh_0_2/133-9645076-8883128?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07GBS38SW&pd_rd_r=dbc8f134-eb67-4c61-9c75-38c16789601f&pd_rd_w=NdONv&pd_rd_wg=9nsGg&pf_rd_p=31caee8f-ce20-49ad-9f29-d71df297ad52&pf_rd_r=KT4ZENGKM0S1G4EYKC34&psc=1&refRID=KT4ZENGKM0S1G4EYKC34 Since it's 12V, I thought that it might even be possible to just power the heating plate with the fan header. It does demand like 8x more current than a fan, but from the little material that exists online, it seems like fan headers can handle a theoretical limit of 20W, which is well within range. Another thought I had is that if the motherboard had output pins (similar to the raspberri pi), I could just use the signal from that as an on/off switch and just plug in some random 12v power adapter into the wall to power this thing.

Hey guys. I'm working on a build that, when the computer heats up, a heating element is activated. What's the best way that I could send a signal out after a certain heat threshold is reached, so that the heating element is activated by the computer? (I know this sounds counter-intuitive. Trust me, there's a method to my madness, and I'll share it on the forums once I'm done.) Thank you!

I agree that it probably won't matter. However, I saw the opportunity and thought that it might be cool to try it. If this idea were to come to fruition, two M.2 X4 ports would be converted to PCIe, then combined to power a graphics card, all from a STX motherboard (147x140mm). Just thought it would be super super cool if it were possible to make it entirely no-compromises.

I'm looking for a riser that allows me to combine two PCIe Gen3 x4 ports into one x8 port, so I can run a graphics card off of it with no throttling. Does this exist, anywhere? I'm trying to find one, but it's basically the exact opposite of the popular cryptocurrency risers that people are buying in droves, so I'm having a hard time finding anything. (Sorry if this is the wrong category. Didn't really know where to ask this other than here.) Thank you!!

Yep, just discovering this now Seems like almost all of them are in prebuilts. Might have to resort to that to complete this build.

You're a lifesaver. Thank you so much