7 hours ago, Slayerking92 said:

What does BIOS beep sound mean?

1.AWARD BIOS

1short beep ：System normal

2 short beep ：CMOS Error

1 long beep and 1 short beep：Memory error

1 long beep and 2 short beep：Graphic card error

1 long beep and 3 short beep ：AGP error

1 long beep and 9 short beep ：Memory Error Continuous long beep ：Memory not correctly installed

Continuous short beep ：Power supply unit failed

 

 

2.AMI BIOS

1 short beep ：Memory Error

2 short beep：Memory parity check error.

3 short beep ：basic memory 64K address check error

4 short beep ：Real Time Clock malfunction .

5 short beep ：CPU error

6 short beep：Keyboard error

7 short beep ：CPU interruption error

8 short beep：Graphic card error

9 short beep ：Memory error

10 short beep ：CMOS error

11 short beep ：CPU cache memory malfunction

 

If you are getting 5 short beeps, it would be CPU related, could be the CPU power connection as mentioned.

Yes, so I presume. Does it mean the cpu is damaged? Because everything so far pinpoints that. Well not necessarily (and hopefully) damaged but if it is a cpu related issue what could I possibly do? Getting a new one is unfortunately not an option for me and allegedly fixing it neither. 

UPDATE: I managed to find an old PSU laying around to see if the issue was with the connections, but unfortunately got the same result. It beeps five times and that is it.

Thank you all for your replies. I took out the MB with the RAM, CPU and PSU and connected them on my desk. I checked and double checked every single connector. If I removed the RAM the beeps are completely different. So I presume the ram is ok. No CPU it wont turn on at all.

But if I place the RAM and CPU, but I don’t plug the CPU connector, as soon as I hit the switch of the PSU all the fans will turn on, without me turning it on manually with the screwdriver. But this time there is no beep. So I presume the cables were previously connected right. Once I put every component as should be, the 5 beeps are back.

Hi there. My pc was working just fine, but I wanted to do some rewirering because it was a mess. But after I finished, and before closing the case, I checked that everything worked, just because. But when I hit the power switch, all I got were 5 beeps. I check on the manual for the meaning of those, but since it is a budget MB the printed docs are pretty much useless and all it says is a bunch of QR codes to go to the website. According to Gigabyte’s support page 5 short beeps stand for CPU error. It says nothing more.

I try to check the RAM, clear the CMOS, remove the CPU, leave the bare minimum for the PC to boot but all I’ve got so far is the 5 beeps. 

I can’t think of something wrong I did or something that could possibly damage the components. Literally all I did was unplug the PSU cables and plug them again. Didn’t even touch the CPU until I disassembled the whole thing. 

Motherboard: Gigabyte H310m A2.0

CPU i5-9400F

GPU GTX970

RAM 8gb DDR4 2400 UDIMM

It’s a budget PC and I have no way to test the components elsewhere. 

Hi.  A quick and Willy question: what kind of mounting screws uses my monitor? Is an Asus PB278Q. You might thing it’s dumb. And it might be.. but I “screwed” it (pun intended sorry not sorry) when I was dissembling it and missed the screws for the VESA thing. I know they’re standar and all that good stuff but when I went to a hardware store for a new set of screws for the standar vesa mounting thing they asked me what size. I thought they were a standar size but apparently I was wrong. I couldnt tell what size I needed for my display and since I lost the original ones I can’t be for sure. I checke the manual, the box and the website and they don’t specify the type of screw. All they say it’s a standar screw. If you could possibly help me on that would be cool. Thanks. 

Hi. I upgraded my old 2008 iMac’s optical drive to an ssd using an adapter,, however due to... electrical failures (presumably) the ssd got damaged. After several unexpected shutdowns my Mac stopped reading/booting from the ssd. I had to reinstall the OS on the HDD but I couldn’t read the ssd not even using disk utility.

then I tried it on a pc. Using hardware manager I got to detect the disk, but I needed to format it, but after severa attempts the formatting was not successful. I don’t know what can I do or what is wrong. Is there a way to fix it? Thanks

18 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

OK I would theorize then that the computer is in fact on, and that you just can't see a display output:-

 

Try a different output from the GPU if you can.

Try a different cable.

Try a different display.

Yeah... already try all of that. Tried VGA, HDMI, DVI and nothing. And the onboard speaker also worked before, but now it doesn't indicate a thing. Tried two different GPUs so I think it is safe to assume it's not a video issue

11 minutes ago, BlueChinchillaEatingDorito said:

When you installed the GPU, where is your video cables connected to? The motherboard rear I/O or the GPU itself?

To the GPU of course. I tried several cards, a radeon 7550 and a gtx970

7 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

Is the PC on continuously after you hit the start button, do the fans and such continue to be powered on? or does it switch off after a few seconds?

 

Yes, they do. All the fans keep powered on, the CPU's, the GPU's, the PSU's and the case's. That's the only way i know it is turned on, but otherwise it does nothing

My motherboard... well... the onboard graphics has not output signal at all, and I have no video even after installing a graphics card. The speaker beeps not, not even after removing the memory or the CPU. I changed the PSU as long as every other hardware just to discard a malfunction, but I have not the tools (aka another computer with the same socket/slots) to test the CPU or the Memory, but I know the motherboard is not quite dead 'cause when I turn it on the fans spin. And thats all the pc does. 

Any tip or advice? the mobo is a p4m900 m7 fe Biostar

4 minutes ago, Jamiec1130 said:

Possible? Probably. Worth it? Hell no. It would be too hard and complex of a task to take on by yourself, and replacing the module is faster, cheaper and easier. And you can snag yourself an upgrade while you're at it. 

That's disappointing. My mobo is a z77x ud5h, my cpu an i5 2500k and my memories are DDR3 1333MHz x4 x3. It is somewhat a 5y/o machine and the mobo has been having failures for a while. I believe I'll need to replace it soon, but right now I'm in a budget situation I can't replace/upgrade any part any soon. And obviously before replacing the memory I rather replace the motherboard, but to do that I need to replace both the CPU and the memories. Pretty much I need to build a brand-new pc to the ground... So that I'd like to experiment a little with this memory. If there is any chance I could possibly fix it (and is not too expensive) I'de like to take it.

41 minutes ago, Jamiec1130 said:

Then it seems that your memory module is dead. I would just replace it. 

yeah. in my particular case replacing it is not an option. I want to go farther. Is it possible to fix a dead memory

1 hour ago, Jamiec1130 said:

Seems like something you've done messed up the slot. Try other RAM modules in there and try the one you were attempting to put in the now broken slot into another slot to see which of the two is broken. 

Thanks for replying. Already did that. The problem is not the slot but the memory itself. I can put any other module in any slot and will work, but that particular memory wherever I place it won't work. 

58 minutes ago, jj9987 said:

And this is why you should always switch off the PSU when doing hardware work on the PC...

I know now. I'm not a newbie, and I always make sure it is disconnected but reciently my motherboard's been failing so I constantly need to do the same and didn't notice I miss that step

Hi. I removed the DIMMs of my system for regular maintenance, but when placing it back I accidentally pressed the onboard ON switch right beside the memory slots and the system switched on before I securely attached the memory to the slot. I know it was idiotic for me not to disconnect the power before but hey, overconfidence happens to de best of us, right?

anyway now I can't make the motherboard to run with that dimm connected. If placed it will detect there's a problem and won't boot until removed.

is there a way to fix that DIMM? Thanks

It might sound crazy but my theory is the BIOS chip got corrupted on its own a while ago, keeping in mind I have this board since 2013. Updating the bios didn't fix it, and I would say made things even worse. Flashing the bios back to a previous version may or may not improve the  The situation. 

What i propose is to get another bios chip to replace the old and damaged one. Just like that

14 hours ago, FAQBytes said:

Super glad I could help. I just want to make sure this doesn't happen in the future, but I'm not seeing any glaring issues at the moment. 

Tag me if it ever happens again.

Well, well, welll... it happened again. I used my system last night after got it working, and turned it off this morning. When came back home the mobo couldn't get passed the POST and the debug led is stuck in "db" again.

11 hours ago, FAQBytes said:

Again, I'm not familiar with your board, but it seems like I'm the only one responding, so I'll keep trying. 

 

This OP seems to have had the same issue in the first two pages and seems to have fixed it. 

https://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/48965-gigabyte-ga-z77x-ud5h-weird-power-issue-db-post-error-rma-3.html

 

If not, just tag me and I'll keep trying.

Thank yo so much! It actually helped. I believed the bios chip to be dead for good cause if it wouldn't even get to POST there was no way it could possibly be reflashed -or fixed whatsoever.

i removed the batt, memories, drives, gpu for around half an hour and cleaned the CMOS. Put everything back in place and didn't even said the bios was corrupted, just to load optimized default. 

Again thanks!

1 hour ago, FAQBytes said:

I'm unfamiliar with this board, but I know on my Intel board there is a jumper I have to switch to allow the BIOS to be over-writable. Is that something that was neglected to do, preventing a true correction of the BIOS? I'll be back in about 8-9 hours for additional help, sorry.

Thanks for replying. As far as I know, such thing never happened. But y my neighborhood we've been having unexpected blackouts. If electrical failures qualifies as such, is the best I can come out with. But none of this happened while flashing the bios so it technically shouldn't be the case

Hi. I've been having an unusual issue with my motherboard. After using it for quite some extended periods of time, when I switched it down and turn it on again I got a BIOS CORRUPTED message and the system immediately tried to fix it. I posted it in several occasions here looking for help but no one could give a solution, and since it happened quite offen it became annoying so I choose to flash the bios. For several days the problem seemed to have gone away but unfortunately it came back. And this time the recovery protocol didn't occur.

instead I got a "db" on the debug onboard display, which according to the manual it meant there was a problem with the bios or flashing, which I assumed was because of the new bios,cause it wasn't fully compatible (maybe cause it was a beta) and couldn't launch the dual bios recovery protocol. But after thinking I figured out I could try switching to the second bios, and voila, the system immediately detected the other corrupted bios and proceded to fix it.

i thought it was cool. If I ever run again to this jut have to switch between bios and it will fix itself. But it wasn't the case. Today it happened again and immediately try to do the trick and this time didn't work. The debug led shows the "db" code in both bios and won't load. No beeping, no video, no UEFI, not a single thing. Now can't flash it back and already ran out of ideas. 

Any idea about what could I do? I'm trusting you guys to revive my precious. Thanks.

Thanks. I've read a lot about this thread and now I feel confident about flashing the bios. The only thing is: does it has to do anything about the bios failure or could it be a hardware thing? Could flashing it improve anything? I now my mobo isn't exactly new (Z77x ud5h) and I had some minor issues like having to give several tries for it to save the boot priority, which I didn't mention earlier, and some random boot option clinging that shouldn't be there and even disconnecting all drives and restoring default bios settings it persists. I'll share pics if needed. 

That been en said importa pretty happy with its overall performances. I don't know if it came defective or it's time to upgrade the mobo or what. My prime objective is to overcome this bios corrupted thing which is obnoxious.

then again thanks for your help and time.

hello y'all. well let's see. A few months ago and mostly after long sessions of use my rig didn't boot, but instead it restarted several times just to show that the main bios was corrupted and needed to repair it. After a while it did the job and for some sessions of work it went smoothly again, until it the issue occurred all over again. The bios kept getting corrupted and recovered quite constantly so I tried removing the batt, cleaning the cmos and those little tweaks I could think of and surprisingly happened to fix the issue, don't know how, but it did. 

A few days e issue started all over agains, once more but this time way more often, and this time cleaning the cmos or removing the batt seemed not to work anymore. It happens now every time I turn my rig on.

Don't know what to do now. I was thinking in flashing the bios but I have my doubts. Not sure what the hints for a failing bios should I been looking for or if upgrading would be recommended. I want to make sure this time for isn't the first time I fry a mobo while attempting to upgrade the bios.

You have a dual BIOS MOBO. Flip the switch on the board. It won't solve the problem on BIOS #1, but at least you have a backup.

Flashing it will likely be the only solution unless you're adept in modifying the EFI shell. Flashing generally isn't a big, once you start just let it do its thing and don't touch it while making sure the power doesn't go out.

Whoa thank you! I totally forgot about the second bios chip. I'll try it before flashing it then let you know.

I have it considered, but feel a little scared to do so. I already broke a motherboard that attempted to flash. I need to restore the defaults settings, right? what if this issue prevents it to be restored?

Hey guys. I'm so into the Team Hackintosh and I'm having this issue. Nothing to do with OS X btw. 

One of the most recommended installation methods for OS X in a PC is clover, as you may or may not know. I did the whole process exactly two times in my system because of reasons, but then I notices when I enter in the UEFI i have two new options to boot from:

Mac OS X and Mac OS X

I thought it was normal, but I removed all my drivers and then realized these two options were still there. Even when there weren't any single HDD or SSD or USB memory or Disc connected.

The Mac OS Xs boot options are carved into the UEFI and not even by cleaning the CMOS can't get rid of it.

I asked for help in the Hackingtosh community but they haven't been able to help me.

And also this wouldn't be a serious issue if my computer performed well, but the motherboard also seems not to save the changes I make on the UEFI. Primely in the boot options. Here's a screenshot 

Motherboard Gigabyte Z77X UD5H

Is there a way to stress test my bluetooth dongle?

I bought this iogear usb bluetooth 4.0 dongle witch I attempt to use in order to pair my DualShock 4 wirelessly to my pc, as well as my iPad and several devices. before getting the DS4 and the iPad everything seemed to be fine, only used it to send a few files from my phone and that was it. But then when pairing the DS4 after a while I encounter issues. Connection issues. I can only play along almost for 20 to 30 minutes before it disconnects/turn off... first I thought it was batt issues so played plugging it to the wall believing it should fix it but no, and since something similar happens to my iPad, when making a wireless backup, and when sending a large amount of files via cellphone... I think it might be the bluetooth, but I have no other way to try it. Have no PS4 to pair with the DS4 or another device that might use it as well. 

So I got this crazy idea that perhaps there is out an app that let me test the bluetooth connection or perhaps benchmark it or similar. or at least that tells me for sure yes, my dongle is the problem

Well the fellas from Corsair replied and told me to send it back to them to RMA it. Im a little nervous. How long does it take to send it back? FYI I'm from Venezuela and bought it on Amazon, US, then ship it to my country, so need to send it back to US first. I use my computer for my living and have no other PSU to work meanwhile. so Gotta check how plausible it is to send it overseas instead of getting a new one.

And having a look on my past, i have plenty of back luck to support the fact something could go wrong and for some reason they tell me they won't fix it. I want to make absolutely sure it is worth a try. Cannot think of any scenario I could possibly have done anything to harm it, but who know...