Beep or Boop

5 minutes ago, Psittac said:

correct, that is the biggest chance of fixing your problem.

Thank you for all the help!

6 minutes ago, Psittac said:

ok then I would go for a 3.5mm TRS ground loop isolator

 

Sorry my brain deleted the word "wireless" when I read the OP lol.

 

Another option is to ditch the GoXLR and use the USB on the headset box.  I'm unaware of which would produce a better sound, depends on where the dac is.

 

My best understanding is that the box is converting analogue to digital to transmit to the headset where it is transmitted back to analogue.  If you use USB the conversion process would be simplified.  So my hypothesis is that best practice is USB to your box.

 

But convenience can trump best practice, so the ground loop isolator would probably be your option if you want to keep the GoXLR in the loop.

I do want to keep my goxlr in the loop because it has features that I just enjoy too much to get rid of. I ended up buying this on amazon before you posted. It's essentially the same thing as the one you linked correct?

1 minute ago, Psittac said:

What is this "receiver box" you speak of? Does it have a model number?

 

I need to understand how you have everything wired first (items and connection types).  My best guess is that the headset being full tilt is amplifying any distortion/interference introduced in this new configuration, it's like turning a stereo up all the way with no input, any interference is going to be loud even when there shouldn't be any sound.

 

Ground loop isolation could be a solution regardless of what the new configuration has done, I know that it fixed a back feed of a tube amplifier into my dac and amp but I used RCA to connect for this.  Depending again, on how you have it set up an RCA ground loop isolator or an Aux/3.5mm ground loop isolator might be in store.

 

From what I can tell your headset uses a TRRS 4-pole connector for input and output, depending on how it's wired you might need to split it into two 3-pole TRS connectors to use a ground loop isolator, if the mic is affected as well a second one would be required for the mic.

The "receiver" is just the little box that comes with the headset. If you look up Arctis Pro Wireless you can see the little box it comes with. And that is all i'm referring too. So my setup is. I have my headsets receiver plugged into my PC, which has a 3.5mm jack plugged into my GoXLR, which is powered and plugged into my PC as well.

50 minutes ago, OddOod said:

Okay, I too am wildy ignorant in the audio world. I ran into a similar issue with my whole home audio and was able to solve it by making sure the amplifiers were plugged into a different outlet than the computer which was the audio source. That doesn't seem to be a possibility here (maybe with a powered USB splitter but who knows). 

In your case I am a bit lost, but the ground loop isolator doesn't seem to be a terrible idea, especially given they are under 10 bucks. 

Ok thanks. I'll try and wait for some more opinions before I blindly try it.

1 minute ago, OddOod said:

Have you tried different USB ports?

 

Yes I have.

So I just upgraded from my Steel Series Arctis 7 to the Arctis Pro Wireless and everything has been working well. How I have it set up, is the receiver box for the headset, is plugged into my GoXLR with a 3.5mm cord. Now how I usually had it set up was that I had my headset volume all the way turned up, and then fine tuned the audio with my GoXLR. I found if I sometimes have the headset lower then full, some applications were too quiet. But now, I am hearing a fuzz/buzz feedback when I have the headset turned up all the way. Is there anything I can do to eliminate that buzz/fuzz? I have heard some stuff about "Ground Loop" things that you put in between your cables. But I'm very ignorant in the audio world.

Still interested in hearing any other options people might have.

10 minutes ago, meekzoo said:

I used to be really heavy, maybe 250, and I eventually settled for a gaming chair. It lasted me a long time, maybe 2 years. It never got super flat, it only got slightly flatter. Maybe just me, but it was so nice.

My only issue with it is it's not as wide as my current chair. Which arm to arm is about 24", and it says theirs is only 20.

Just now, meekzoo said:

Like I said, this is a really reliable chair, and it's having a massive sale. Good luck on your weight loss journey too, but this thing will probably last you a while, and it's pretty comfortable too.

Thank you! Really means a lot! And sorry I didn't check the link right away. But isn't the general consensus that gaming chairs aren't the usual goto? I do see that it has a very good deal. Just curious

4 minutes ago, meekzoo said:

Depends on your budget.

This is a really nice one: https://gtracing.com/products/footrest-series-lr002?currency=USD&variant=40125826531408&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=75810b58a06c&dm_cam=19306935823&dm_grp=144130912946&dm_ad=641978487251&dm_kw=&dm_net=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQiAjMKqBhCgARIsAPDgWlw4zuzulfE-EnU3CQr3Tcuv-WE7FA-L06FAxB9CsvvwWo2-wU5XXdwaAjF7EALw_wcB

I'm willing to spend a little money. But once it gets more then 400-500$ i'm out

Hey big fellas. I'm around 300 lbs and losing weight! Albeit slowly. I was wondering if there was bigger guys out there who have found good chairs that the cushions don't become flat quickly. I've tried amazon chairs and chairs that I've liked from Office Depot. But they all turn out the same. Any help would be amazing. Thanks guys.

19 minutes ago, mariushm said:

You don't say the budget... If you want cheap, maybe have a look at Lenovo M0520 at 20-25$ : https://www.newegg.com/lenovo-m0520-others/p/N82E16836146017

Not the best link, probably find it on amazon or other places cheaper.

 

Right, because I don't really have a specific budget. Looking for peoples opinion on cheapish speakers and make my decision there.

Just looking for some cheapish speakers that I can slide under my monitors that I can just plug straight into my mobo. Don't necessarily need the cheapest option, but probably a good deal. Not looking to spend a crazy amount because I don't often listen to stuff through speakers but would like the option.

21 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Scimitar Elite Wireless looks to be the best fit if you're looking for that whole keypad on the side style. 

Yeah the Scimitar is looking like the best bet. What's Corsairs track record for wireless mice? I've had no problems with my old logitech mice, but man. This Razer mouse is making me wanna throw it through a wall.

Hey guys, I recently swapped back to the Razer Naga Pro because i've been wanting all of the buttons that that mice offers. But I am slowly realizing why I don't like Razer products. I've already had two RMA's for faulty connections where it would disconnect for a few seconds then come back. Never happend when I was using my G603. Does anyone have any recommendations for wirelesss mice that have 12 buttons? Doesn't have to be twelve but a good amount of programmable buttons would be ideal.

7 minutes ago, Mondodimotori said:

Could you do a direct video capture of gameplay, so that we can also see this inconsistency in perceived frame rate?

I'll do that tomorrow and give an update.

56 minutes ago, Fl0yd- said:

Any update?

Yeah. I did a little more research and found this, guess it doesn't help with FPS really.

Just now, Fl0yd- said:

I recently unknowingly fixed this issue where I turned off overdrive on my monitor and everything started to look buttery smooth as if I was playing on 60 fps this entire time on my 360hz monitor.

The only thing I see in my monitors settings is "response time". It has Off/Normal/Fast/Faster and it's set on Fast atm

4 hours ago, emosun said:

did you check if making the window smaller effects how the games perceived speed is

No I haven't yet. I'll give it a shot.

4 hours ago, mrjason said:

You have Vsync enable / Disabled? 

Does the game have a frame cap setting?

 

Also, some games are intended to run at a set FPS for performance. 
Not familiar with Tekken 7.

 

But I am assuming you're not getting tearing / thermal throttling? 

You have a 2nd monitor to run HW Info  on to see whats going on under the hood while gaming?

Sorry for the late response. No VSync and no frame cap setting, just stuck at 60 from the game. But it just doesn't feel like a smooth 60 all the time. Sometimes it feels smooth and other times it doesn't. As for the thermals, i'm running mostly under 75 degrees, sometimes cpu hits 80.

Just now, SpookyCitrus said:

Ok, and is your refresh rate still set to 60hz in Windows? Even with a 144hz monitor you need to manually set your refresh rate to 144hz to match your monitor. If you never did that it's most likely still set at 60hz. 

It's 144hz.

Just now, mrjason said:

If you got a 60hz monitor it would make sense.

What kind of monitors we running? 

3 minutes ago, SpookyCitrus said:

 What is your monitor resolution and refresh rate? In the windows settings do you have your refresh rate set the correct amount to match your monitor?

 

The monitor the game is running on is 2560 x 1440 running 144hz

Can't figure out if it's just because i'm getting older and my eyes are not what they used to be. But I've been playing games, in this instance Tekken 7 and the FPS counter the whole time will stick to 60 fps, but there are lot of times where it feels like 45, sometimes even lower. I feel like i'm going crazy because the number is always 60, but the gameplay feels otherwise. Am I going crazy? Or could it be my system?

AMD Ryzen 9 5900x - ROG STRIX B450 Aorus Wifi - 4x8GB 288-Pin DDR4 3000 G.Skill Ripjaws V Series - Corsair RM850x - Founders Edition 3080 TI

20 minutes ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

How did you clean it?  If you got enough liquid on the screen or were rough, it could have damaged the connections to the panel itself, which is usually when a line suddenly goes bad like this.  Or it may have been faulty already and pressure on the screen was the last push it needed to lose a good connection.

Now I don't know if this says anything. But the left line of pixels or whatever is blinking between yellow and red. If this is unrepairable i'll just sell it for parts or something.

Just now, wONKEyeYEs said:

The cleaner should be sprayed on the cloth not the screen.

Like the other guy said. Live and learn lol