Whiro

11 hours ago, wesker465 said:

however above question remains, hot to set up throttlestop to automaticaly run and apply changes at every startup ???

You will need to set up starting Throttlestop in Windows Task Scheduler, I done it this way and it’s working alright since then. There’s a guide how to do it 

https://www.repairwin.com/how-to-start-throttlestop-at-windows-startup/

11 hours ago, wesker465 said:

I made some undervolting ( -85mV )

Maybe ur laptop have also locked capabilities of undervolting and whatever settings u apply don’t take any effect, it was definitely case with my laptop ( Gigabyte G5-KC) , I had to unlock it separately and after that the settings properly kicked in.

11 hours ago, wesker465 said:

I guess its fixed then ??? 

If u satisfied with the results now then sounds like it’s fixed haha

2 hours ago, lasch said:

Is this the same as DDU?

No it’s not, DDU makes sure all old drivers are uninstalled from all directories. If you do new install of drivers it may left some old and corrupted files. DDU is best option and always my first step in any troubleshooting 

2 hours ago, lasch said:

Hi everyone and thanks in advance. 

I've been having an issue while gaming where my monitors will suddenly go black and say 'no input detected'. I can hear the game audio for another second or two before it cuts off. My RGB/lights and fans remain on as usual. I have to restart the PC with the power button. It happens rather frequently, (more than once an hour), and seems to happen with increasing frequently if I continue to game right after rebooting the PC. It never happens during normal PC use, only gaming. 

Here are my specs:

CPU: Ryzen 9 5900X

GPU: ASUS TUF 3080Ti

Mobo: ROG Strix X570-E

RAM: 16 GB DDR4 Corsair Dominator 1064 mhz

Monitors: ROG XG27UQ (3840x2160@144Hz) + 27GL850 (2560x1440@144Hz)

OS: Windows 10 home 64 bit

PSU: ROG Loki 1000W

Cooling: Custom loop with EKWB CPU and GPU backplates. 

Some extra info that may be helpful:

I have mostly been playing genshin recently, but I've tested this on other games like horizon zero dawn and cities skylines, and the same thing happens

Graphics drivers are up to date

Temps in game max are 65 C for the CPU and 70 C for the GPU

I have tried win + ctrl + shift + b without luck

RAM in in dual channel & never goes above 58% use when gaming (as per windows task manager)

I have two separate high-quality cables from the PSU to PCIE slot (no daisy chains)

I'm not super experienced with troubleshooting, and have had no luck after a few weeks of trying tips from google/youtube/reddit. I'm wondering if maybe I should just bite the bullet and get a new GPU
Thanks very much for your help, it is much appreciated!

I would try DDU first, maybe driver is corrupted so fresh install may work.

16 hours ago, LogicalDrm said:

When your productivity lowers, your boss might be interested on why.

Yeah well actually I have plenty of time at work for playing ( operating nickel plating line for silicone wafers ) every 50 mins I’m loading something on the line which takes me maxs 5 min so for rest of the time I sit and relax.

29 minutes ago, Needfuldoer said:

So you want a motion activated Win+D hotkey?

Yes that’s what I was looking for and I found it finally 

https://www.tindie.com/products/dekuNukem/daytripper-hide-my-windows-laser-tripwire/

30 minutes ago, Needfuldoer said:

Might be easier to just not look at fun images at work.

Not funny images but I’m playing games (privileges of working by myself) but sometimes people come to see, no reason they need to know I’m playing during work hrs haha

3 minutes ago, Heliian said:

Like a motion sensor? 

Yes exactly, there’s some device which switch to desktop when someone is approaching but I can’t remember how it’s called, I’ve spend last two hrs trying to find it

Hi all

Does anyone know what’s the name of this wireless usb device which activates desktop when someone walks close to you? 
 

I need one and don’t remember what was the name of it

3 hours ago, marek1977 said:

Yes, exactly, it's this sort of low level vibration, almost like humming. It's caused by fans mounted directly behind the panel. I am thinking of mounting them at the top of the case instead.

 

Did you tried moving the fans to the inside of the case (other side of that front frame bracket) so they are not so close to the front panel ?

On 9/23/2021 at 7:37 AM, kristalshards said:

What you mean why? Why do you think people are undervolting their laptops anyway? Cause the temps are terrible and it's making this machine thermal throttle which means terrible output in terms of FPS during gaming.

Omg seriously??? I never knew that ……

1 hour ago, eatyourbeans said:

Any ideas?

Get rid of the shroud with fans, use cable ties to mount case fans to the gpu heatsink… problem solved hahaha

But to be honest with you this works, I’ve done it before and it cools gpu even better that og fans 

3 hours ago, Not Miha said:

before and the other is now

Before what? Did you changed anything? New drivers, new bios, anything? 

36 minutes ago, Justagamerwitoutagpu said:

and also I meant 800 bucks for the entire pc

What do you mean by that? What else do you need in that budget? 

9 minutes ago, unclewebb said:

Many modern laptops run at over 90°C while the fans constantly scream. Undervolting the CPU reduces power consumption and heat and makes poorly designed laptops with inadequate cooling almost bearable. That is usually why people do this. 

I understand basic concept why ppl doing it, I’ve done it before as well, I was asking OP why he want to do it, is his temps high? 
I have Gigabyte laptop atm, temps are good under the load so I don’t see any point in undervolting

9 minutes ago, unclewebb said:

Many MSI laptops include an advanced BIOS so you can easily unlock voltage control. This works great on 11th Gen CPUs too like the 11800H. Undervolting is still alive and well. Users have been using software for at least 15 years to undervolt their laptops. If Asus was more enthusiast friendly, they could easily add a simple option to unlock CPU voltage control to their BIOS like MSI has done.

Not sure why they don’t, is it type of idot proofing measure just in case the ppl strat playing with the settings they not supposed to play with, and than reporting the laptop broke? Maybe. If that’s the case they could easily release bios just for enthusiasts which know what they doing.

38 minutes ago, NeverTheLess said:

Gainward Phantom RTX 3070

I had gtx 970 from this brand back in the days, worst cooling I ever had on the card, the fans didn’t managed to keep the card cool at all. I had to rip the shroud off and install normal 120mm fans.

Well you basically get what you pay for, more you manage to invest the better product you get (in most cases)

7 minutes ago, gwynbleidd97 said:

Hey everyone,

I just got a new 5600X last week and booting for the first time I opted to use the stock cooler instead of my aftermarket one to see if everything works. The problem is, as you all probably know, is that the thermal paste on the stock cooler is like glue. I almost had a heart attack when I couldn't remove it to install the other cooler. Pulled with some force it didn't work so I twisted it until it came loose (CPU did not get yeeted out of the socket thank goodness), cleaned the CPU, installed the main cooler and went on my day.

Now I look back and ask myself, what if I damaged some pins? I didn't check the CPU after removing the Wraith Stealth I just winged it. This has been eating at me so I tried multiple stress test tools, OCCT (SSE, AVX, AVX2 with all options), AIDA64, Prime95, Techpowerup Memtest64...etc none of which had any problem, it all ran fine. Also never crashed once in windows or had any issues since then, do I assume with high probability that I didn't damage the CPU and/or the socket? in what ways, other than obvious ones like blue screens and crashes, do bent/damaged pins manifest themselves?

Thanks for your inputs.

 

Specs:
5600X
16GB 8x2 Crucial Ballistix 3600Mhz CL16
MSI B550-A PRO

I’ve seen many times ppl rip the cpu out of the socket with the cooler and cpu was still working, if you don’t have any problems atm that means you good and didn’t done any damage

On 9/18/2021 at 7:48 PM, Ry_707 said:

I’ve seen people ask before on various forums over the years but never seen any answers.

 

Has anyone ever successfully vertically mounted their GPU but the other way with the backplate showing and fans facing the motherboard instead? (HDMI ports still facing the rear of the case with PCIe connector at the top instead of bottom like the attached pic).
 

I’m guessing there is no ‘off the shelf’ kit for this. Just curious if anyone has tried modifying a standard vertical GPU mount to get the GPU oriented this way and what kit you used to modify

I have friend which mounted his GPU horizontally so I believe everything is possible 

1 minute ago, rushias said:

So, my friend is offering to sell his old ram sticks to me and I'm not sure if my current RAM sticks are compatible with the ones he is giving me. My current RAM sticks are Balistix DDR4 2x 8 GB 3200 MHz. Both of the stick he is giving me are two different brands, but they're both the same specs. (one 8GB with 3200 MHz, and the other is the same.) So, wouldn't this mean they're compatible? I wouldn't have to do any speed adjusting, right?

If they are same spec ram they should work without any issues, doesn’t matter that they are different brand.

3 hours ago, kristalshards said:

I have to bump this thread as I have exactly the same problem, on an Asus TUF FX504GM.

You don’t have to bump it, you could create just new thread. Anyway most laptops this days don’t let you undervolt or overclock anything, is there any reason why you want to do it?

5 hours ago, Vleming said:

pls i tried it but it doesn't work plsss

So resetting the bios to default didn’t helped? How did you oc in the first place? Did you checked the temps?

7 hours ago, Gen-Z Protagonist said:

my ram is not working at full speed XMP profile is set to 1600 but its still working on 1333 both motherboard and cpu support 1600mhz. it all started after when i changed my case (built myself) before it was running 1600.

Try to check it in the CPU-Z first. See what values it’s showing there, task manager may not display it correctly.

10 minutes ago, Vleming said:

ummm i am on laptop not computer?

Just do the point 1

1 hour ago, Moonzy said:

if your water level is going down constantly at a rate quicker than expected, there might be a leak somewhere so do pay attention to that possibility as well

I agree with that. Had similar problem with my loop on the beginning, there was tiny leak from the res, I didn’t screw it all the way to the pump. 

52 minutes ago, Majew said:

Some one suggested flushing it out with isopropyl alcohol

Whole loop? It’ll be waste of ipa. If you want to clean it with ipa just take it apart and then clean it

9 minutes ago, Vleming said:

how to clear cmos?

 

You can reset the UEFI settings (clear CMOS) by one of the following methods:

 1. Go to the Exit tab in the UEFI and select Load Optimized Defaults.

2. Press the Clear CMOS button on your motherboard (if it has one).

3. Unplug the computer and remove the coin cell battery on the motherboard for a few minutes and then reinsert it.