AhmedIlyas

I couldn't care less. What I mean is: Good for them. Support them. Happy for them. I only care about the content and value they bring as after all, that is what it is all about. About their individuality is another thing and a bonus but we are not "entitled" to as such, like them explaining their story/reasonings behind it or looking for any form of approval/validation. yes, I missed their content. They are fantastic and hilarious but entertaining too and provide such valuable content to us! Whatever works for them and whatever makes them happy, why are we to judge them?

One of the companies that Linus sponsored a short while ago was VRLA Tech. I just placed an order for a custom system... let's see how good they are The customer service response has been good so far. I had a few exchanges with them via email about what I am looking for and specific components. They have been very responsive. My own build will be the following: CPU- Intel Core i9-13900K CPU Cooler - Noctua NH-D15 Premium CPU Cooler Motherboard - Asus Z790 ProArt Creator wifi Memory - 128GB DDR5 RAM (Crucial brand or better) Storage – 4x 2TB Samsung Pro 990 with heatsink m.2 NVMe Graphics Card - Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti (Air cooled) Power Supply - EVGA PSU: 80+ Titanium 1600 Case - Fractal Design Define R7 XL case (Black) Case Fans - Noctua High Performance Cooling Fans Now, this is not a gaming machine but more of a HEDT workhorse system. I thought I'd post here and give an honest view and opinion of the sponsor too.

Hi all. So, Twitch is not something I am looking for here but I am looking fo something easier. Basically I want to do a podcast that allows me to "accept" joinee's into the call (similar to meetings like Zoom for example) and be able to stream to different platforms like youtube, facebook etc... What do you recommend for software to do this? Ideally want to make it easy for non-tech savvy people.

Thanks! Not budget but just have 2 other PCIe cards I NEED to use and I want to be as much energy efficient as possible and lower my electric bill without the modern cards... lol.

Hmm. They seem pretty low on the spectrum of things these days LOL.

Thanks! I am OK with even up to a 200w-250w card just as long as it's not going to draw so much power. Thoughts on the 20 series? Worth it? Not worth it?

I am not really into gaming. I hate how downhill Nvidia have gone with no care about power consumption or slot consumption... What older Nvidia cards would you recommend that have 4 HDMI outputs or a combo of DVI and HDMI? (must have 4 outputs though). I am looking for a card that: - consumes 1-1.5x slot space (NO water/liquid cooling) - used for daily work but also the odd game like Rainbow Six, Flight sim (not the recent ones but if it can play the new one, that would be great), Delta force - does not consume high power! This is for a new system I will be building with latest components around for a 13th Gen Intel. Not that the CPU matters in this case for me. Thank you.

Just saw this - thanks for the responses. yeah, its been a long time since I built a PC and Asus defo has been solid for me. I was aware of the recent issues of the Asus mobo where the capacitors were placed backwards on some of the boards. What would be a solid heavy duty motherboard these days then? That's what I am struggling to find in general... quality does not exist now.

*sigh* can't keep waiting. Waiting damn too long for something decent to come out... lol

I have had excellent luck with Asus board. Even the one I am running today from literally 10 years ago, on virtually 24/7... no issues. Rock solid. Trust and reliability.

Thanks all! I feel very informed

Thanks!

@-rascal- - thanks. Well yes, I do want the HEDT but Intel no longer does the extreme editions... and don't want to do Xeon either.

I am coming into the new era of computers. I used to build them 10+ years ago. Things have changed. I now see, and have done a lot, about "timings" in memory. What the heck is this stuff? And why is it needed? I don't care about overclocking as long as perf is fast. Is this more specific to overclocking or should I pay attention to it? What configuration do you recommend for an Intel i9? Educate me

This will be for the Intel i9 13th Gen. I am looking for support of: 128GB DDR4/DDR5 mem (probably DDR4) 6 SATA connections at least 4 PCIe slots (includes 1x, 16x) What is the solid premium board (cost does not matter) from the Asus line? I am not a gamer so I don't care much for RGB (yes, I hear you cry....). Looking for solid robust hardware of premium quality here. ROG Strix Z790-F is disappointing as it is expensive but only has 2 PCIe's!

.. When the office is warm and a simple fan does not work, just engineer your own... yup. I have that right now. Love Noctua fans!

@Chris Pratt - thanks. But I have been using the same cable for a long time without issues. I even have other HDMI cables and still the same issue so... its not to do with the HDMI cables. The fact that it happens on 2 different TV's, one old and new... with different HDMI cables... and that it started after a new cable box swap out 2 weeks ago which caused my first TV to be bricked.. yeah, it's all too funky for me. Just very confused.

Hi all! Trying to get help and opinions from different outlets and do value your opinion on this. I have 2 boxes: DVR Bedroom/satellite box 2 weeks ago or so, the xfinity technician replaced my aged DVR box. The reason was that it stopped displaying any output after a software update it seemed. Very strange. Even after swapping the satellite box with the DVR box (as this was happening in the bedroom TV), no difference. The only way I was able to get something was connecting the Coax “Antenna” from the TV to the cable box and I got output. Poor but it’ll do. Tech came and replaced it with a newer gen box. Everything seemed to work just fine. The next day, TV stopped working completely in the sense if, it was flash when switching it on and disappear. You can see the Amazon fire TV home screen for 0.25s or less. This is an Insignia Fire TV. No matter what I did, nothing worked. I can hear sound but no picture – blank screen. Even if I plug in my laptop to the TV, it would not detect the TV. It tries to connect but fails and cannot find the other display. I unplugged and pressed the TV power button for 1 minute to try to “Reset” it, but no dice. Furious. Today, I got a new TV. (Same brand, newer model and actually a good price for a bigger one!) It was working fine. I switched it off… went away for a few hours and come back. Nothing appears. I can hear sound but no picture. I see the TV is turned on as it is not fully black but you can see the whiteness on the entire screen. I tried to reset it again using the same method (at least I hope that is the same method). I unplugged everything and did not even plug in the HDMI cable but nothing – I do not even see the home screen or the Amazon FireTV start screen. Comcast are saying, of course, that there is nothing wrong with the box (this is over the phone tech support). Um, I am not going to spend another $xxx on a TV for their box to brick it! Anyone know what is going on here? What am I doing wrong? I have 2 bricked or semi-broken TV’s. I have another TV coming in 2 weeks time for the bedroom to replace the one that seems to be broken. This one that I bought today was for the living room (since I did not have one for the living room.. thought I would buy one). I refuse to believe the new TV already developed some fault with the same characteristics as the bedroom TV and it was working before I switched off the TV.

@Donut417 - no problem. I am canceling Cox. They are very quick to bill after 3 days when they installed it (when they were "bothered" to come round after the 3rd attempt). The guy on the phone said he would waive the installation fee due to them messing up but guess what? They didn't. I'm canceling. I do have T-Mobile 5G and will let you know the review in the next 2-3 weeks or less. I am between places at the moment with moving. Still trying to figure out the best option for me here.

@Pancake there is no switch involvement here. It's direct from PC to NAS box. The resolution here was that the NIC was overheating. I applied a bigger fan to the chipset/heatsink and problem went away and all has been well ever since.

Problem with cox is... costly, poor upload speed, shoddy customer service and cannot justify it. TMobile internet seems to be ok (I am on the business plan) but need to check about the port forwarding/if it allows me to connect remotely into the home.

Clients meaning customers

2+ year waiting list for Starlink. And it actually will be slower than the T-Mobile 5G internet. LOL.

yeah. Thinking about it, my concern is the IP address part now because some clients need to add your IP Address to their firewalls to allow access and ideally I just want to give them the 1 primary one and not have the IP addresses, on my side, bounce around.

Thanks @Alex Atkin UK - I am from the UK also but now reside here in the US for the last 5 years I can mix providers I guess.