Mando772004

I had a Quest 2 for a while before I gave it to my sister, and I really liked it. You can play some games directly on the headset from its onboard storage, or you can play games from a PC over wifi or a link cable. I was very impressed with it given the low price point, and my sister loves using it to this day. I'd say it's a good entry to VR if you don't want to put a big investment into it.
 
Also, there's no difference between the Meta and Oculus Quest 2 - Oculus is owned by Meta.

You're going to have to define "good". Compared to something like a Vive Pro 2 or Index? No, not at all, but its considerably cheaper. I think I paid like $200for a refurbished model over two years ago and it feels about worth that. You're getting a $200 experience, not a $900 experience. Its an acceptable entry into VR but if you enjoy it, you'll want something better rather quickly.

this one worked, thank you so much!

Here you go, a quick video showing exactly this 🙂 
Even at a locked 141 fps.
 

try cinebench, check the core clocks and see if your cinebench score is higher than before. but do like 3 tests before and 3 after because it could just be luck that the score after increased, so multiple tests before and after to negate that possibility 

I would say so.  Those are very resonable temperatures during full load! My 4080 at 330w ( overclocked ) stay around the same during full load.
 

This is common for every GPU for example my RX6600 when i’m playing will go from 50-65 and stay around those temps. I would not be concerned about this unless ur gpu is hitting very high temps like 80-85

Normal temperatures and temperature fluctuation is also normal.
When I play Hell Let Loose in a tank I have around 58c on my RTX 4080 but when I zoom in with the turret it instantly shoots up to 64c and when I zoom back out it instantly drops to 58c.
This is exactly how they work and nothing is wrong.
I can record a video of it if you want that shows exactly this.

install samsung magician and check that drive firmware. 
 
run sfc /scannow in an admin cli window
run DDU, and reinstall GPU drivers. 
 

yeah that makes sense, Thanks for your reply!

A 10% difference could easily be down to a different case/ventilation situation compared to how it was tested by techpowerup. they likely used an open air bench, where your GPU is likely inside a case, so it has to fight a bit harder to get the heat out. I wouldn't worry about it at all.

i just wanna ask, why would you want to uninstall it? im not saying you should use it but like how does it affect you since im guessing you use chrome or firefox? does having it installed cause a problem or this is just a discovery

There is no fix. This is why 7950x3D is a terrible to use if you do just gaming or mixed workloads. You either have to disable cores or figure out what works best since the Prefer cores or cached cores has been shown to not function properly. Theres been quite a few posts about this and nothing really gets it to work perfectly every time.

TUF OC
 
These minor clockspeed differences out of the box are a waste of time to think about, they make no real world difference. Brands use them to sell cards to inexperienced buyers. 
 
For an actual bump that you might notice, tune the card manually. Or just leave it stock and play games, its a dumb fast card as is.

okay honestly i dont mind it i just wanted to know if its normal

Quite happy with my MODDIY cable even though it took ages to get here. You give them a length, sense pins location (up or down), sleeving material and PSU make/model and they build it to order. Cleaned up the rats nest that was the stock adapter.
 

 
 

You can probably play with some of the memory training options in order to get it to not take forever, though I haven't done that on that board so don't know if that would do anything. 

Just the way it is. The boot time on my 4790k is less than the last 3 machines I've had since there's a lot more hardware to initialize/POST. DDR5 added another with the training it'll do every time there's a cold boot or so.

GPU doesn't POST. Mine will run into the problem where it'll have a VGA POST red LED lit and be a black screen, sometimes it works through that but sometimes doesn't. Sometimes it doesn't produce a display output until after I hear the Windows sound that its fully booted.
 
The only way I've found around it was not using native 1:1 12VHPWR. If you're not using that, then I would suggest forcing PCIe 4.0 or 3.0 in the UEFI on PCIE_1.
 
Overall, its only sometimes annoying. Only occasionally do I have to restart more than once to get it to POST properly. There's a cocktail of UEFI settings related to PCIE_1 that I've experimented with, the only thing I can tell being that the GPU doesn't POST because of sense pin issues on the 12VHPWR connection, specifically related to what cable I'm using.

I've had a ton of issues with cables and PSUs related to 12VHPWR, none of which involved frying components because I've always seated the connector properly and not bent the hell out of the cable.

For people that misuse them, sure. That involves either bending the adapter to a ridiculous amount that can break traces, or not seating them properly.
 
As other have mentioned, the recent recalls and issues are with those who are using 3rd party adapters. The best options are either the included adapter, a first party internally adapted cable, or a native 12VHPWR PCIe 5.0 enabled new unit. Out of all of them, the first party internally adapted cables have the least amount of problems, since even native 12VHPWR has intermittent sensing issues.

All have been recalled as revisions were also faulty.
 
 

unfortunately i dont have another pc or any parts, when i tested it was at the hardware store. i tried disabling vsync and setting cpu to prefer cache through bios, i even stopped the amd 3dvcache driver from Services. i also manually set ram timings and connected pc directly to pc outlet, so far no crashes on fullscreen(except cod but i think its a game issue cuz it only happens when i alt tab) but ill have to keep testing to see. if this doesnt work ill try switching to pcie 3.0 on my gpu

I tried a 1060 and it had the same issue, i even rma'd the first 4090. I currently have my 4090 set to gen 4 in the bios maybe i can try that. The chipset drivers i have are already from amd but how do i uninstall them like a clean uninstall? Also setting the ram timings and voltage and speed manually worked but like when i applied the settings it took like a hot minute to boot i thought it wasnt gonna boot

The B650 boards really are well built , My board at the time was the cheapest you could buy and still managed to keep a 7950X at full load for a long sustained test whilst having Vrm's sitting under 80c , Pretty impressive for a budget board.
 
I'm not qualified enough on the matter to add anything to what @Agall has allready mentioned so will leave you in his very capable hands.

Mods, if this gains any traction and should be moved, by all means. I am just sharing my experience here for discussion.  I posted this as a reply in a GPU thread, and it turned into the post I was gonna make here, So I just copied it over.
 
I was gonna post a 'my experience' writeup on this topic.  Seems to be happening to a lot of i9 people. I've done a crapload of research and came to a few common workarounds, and then a solution for myself that differed from the common solution.  Maybe my insight will help. I'm not a guru like the people on here, but I did have this issue and wanted to post about it in general. In searching, I saw your thread and figured I'd post quick before I wrote up in a bit more detail. Everyone keeps saying look to the GPU, the drivers, the SSD firmware, fresh OS install etc.... Here are my thoughts.
 
For context, I'm running a 14900kf and 4090 OC edition with 24GB of VRAM. There should be no way I got this message either.
Started in a few games, then spread to other games. I did some looking and similar systems with high end GPUs and more specifically i9 chips see mto be the only ones I found affected. i9 intel cpus seem to be the common denominator here with Generation varying and GPUs varying. Everyone seems to have the same story, Started in a few programs, then started happening widespread. People had tried OS reinstall, warranting the chip, the mobo etc, problems would fix, but then come back eventually. etc etc. Just as I experienced w/o the warranting of hardware.
 
Seems the error is misleading. IMO It never ended up 'actually' being video memory. I'm personally running 24gb of video mem, and when being run in these games that crashed with the error, never had less than 20gb left available. Games would usually crash at initial loading screen.
 
A lot of the GAME-SPECIFIC threads had a common solution that seems to work for many by underclocking their CPU. eg going from a 45 multiplier to a 44. or reducing clock speeds by as little as .25 have been reported to work in some cases I read up about.  Great solution, right? well maybe. if you're into that. But it seemed to be a functional workaround.
 
So I didn't try this, and its running like a top now with an alternate solution. Nothing crashes anymore. The common solution seemed to point to the stock clock or overclock settings stressing the CPU and needing to dial back ever so slightly to avoid the issues. For reference this happens with my KF CPU with no integrated graphics, and others that have it.
 
In monitoring I notice core throttling and high temps, as do everyone with these 12-14 and more 13+14th gen fireballs. Seemed to relate (although maybe just in my rationale). Instead of downclocking, all I did was disable MOBO voltage enhancements and run Intel's stock settings. (Also updated UEFI, as it seems in some MOBO cases provide different voltages to the CPUs, however, this was sorting previous issues not this specific one). On my Z790 board. Strix z790E I simply click 'DISABLE ASUS MULTICORE ENHANCEMENT - ENFORCE ALL LIMITS' (Intel limits for cpu applied) and it solved the problem. I assume this is similar to a downclock, as it will put less stress on the cpu? I dunno. Maybe the guys here can offer some additional input, but this works fine for me. When I turn the voltage back up or try and push the clock to 6.2 from 6.0 or something, it works fora bit, then starts to degrade and the errors come back. If i leave it alone, it leaves me alone. True story.
 
Maybe this will help before people run down the rabbit hole.
 
Community, Thoughts?
Edit - this was supposed to post in general. Reposted. Not sure how to delete this one......