Kris3456

I am using computer in power save mode to save energy of course. When everything is working ok in 4x0,8 GHz, then I don't want to switch my CPU from low 25 Watt mode to >35 Watt while doing the same work, with the same computer behaviour. As I stated in previous post, problem was wrong Task Manager CPU usage reported by Win 10 LTSC. In video playback it reported about 25% on all cores, while in reality it was close to 100%. Now I know, that i have to switch to ballanced power plan while watching HD videos. And I found this article about bug in LTSC:

I already know the answer. A few minutes of testing, answered my question ... Sry for trouble. My task manager is not showing correct values of CPU usage. Probably due to some windows service turned off or becouse of Windows LTSC bug While HWiNF064 showed the truth:

specs: Win 10, AMD Phenom 4 965BE 4x3,4 Ghz, 8 GB RAM, GTX 970 I really don't understand why playback of HD videos (in youtube or external program) is choppy in power save mode of 4x0,8 Ghz when processor load is only 20% and all params (like: motherboard Bus clock, NB clock, HT clock, memory speed and GPU Mem&Video Clock) are the same in HWiNFO when switching to higher power plan mode. The only difference is of course processor load and +20Watt more due to higher voltage on it, but in power save mode it has still plenty of free avaiable resources. So what is going on ? This is some kind of hardware bottleneck or rather Windows problem ?

Eyes of every human are different. More or less sensistive to different light sources. In the same brightiness and lighting conditions some screen we can watch nont stop, when some would be unwatchable and any "trick" will not change this. Ex. I can watch bright 150' 3xLCD lamp projector with practicaly without any break, while i can't stand 99% normal computer monitors with CCFL and LED light or plasma TV's, even with barely visible screen. Eyes are becoming red and soon are in huge pain. While having perfect vision and not a problem diagnosed with eye doctors. So i am still using old CRT ones or lamp projection screens. Have hope, that i could watch OLED. Every human can have different problems, so nobody can really say - that will would a trick for You at that particular device. If something in not right for You than stop using that thing, and look for another one. Sometimes this is the only option.

It depends what custom blocking filters you are using. With adblockplus I see ex. on NBC such message, so to play those videos You must whitelist this domain anyway.

Power plans has nothing with Your problem. As seen on video you posted, CPU is spiking to 100% (virus, bad drivers, broken system ?). In such situation, even super computer will be overloaded. Reinstall Windows. CPU at iddle should not work at more then 1% even in power save plan. Check CPU usage after every program installation and You will find the offender.

Problem probably is in slow disk drive and not optimized Windows. Your system as is, is still capable to run even Win10 (not stock full of crap of course). I have AMD x4 965 and it's still enough to watch films, surf the Web etc. (when working in power save mode at 4x800 Hz, so it's probably even slower then Yours working at max power). Have 2 graphic cards. A new one for gaming and second AMD HD 3470 for watching films on old TV with VGA input. 2 GB RAM can be a problem, but both optimized Win7 and 10 should not consume more then 800 MB after install. Just use no more then 1-2 ram hungry programs at the same time. Have small 128 GB SSD, but moved my Windows to fast new HDD (150 MB/s read) and games to SSD. Why ? Becouse I can live with slightly worse Windows loading time, but some games like Witcher 3 just drop FPS to 0 in fast movement every 15 seconds, when not installed on SSD. So my proposition is: decrap Your Windows (the easiest thing is reinstall), buy cheap new 3 TB HDD drive ex. Toshiba P300 - HDWD130UZSVA, which is reasonably cheap ($ per 1 TB) and fast and will always be usefull as data storage in a new build. And do not invest even a penny in this computer and wait for a new Ryzen.

1. Most services and programs in iddle time should consume 0% CPU&disk drive and some memory. However the more crap You have starting with Windows and installed too, the more things can be exectuted by those programs at any time from task shedule. Ex. virus scanning, uploading new versions, maintaining, telemetry etc, and game will stutter. Such activity should not crash Your game when You have enough RAM + pagefile. 2. Optimalization about what You are asking for, it's not an easy task and there are not automated programs to do that. The easiest thing to do, it's to add another user account to gaming. You can uncrap your comp using ex. autorun or Razer Cortex Game Booster. However even the cleanest system made by programs like Ntlite in which You can chop Your Windows to bare bones, is not showing any visible FPS gain vs standard Windows. Summarizing: if You system at iddle is showing no more then 1% CPU usage, You can do a little to improve situation. Mine optimized by hand, Win 10 have 0% CPU and HDD when doing nothing. Only a few services are working, no telemetry, no Win defender and MS firewall (I use another one and those services are stopped) and many not needed tasks are just deleted from task sheduler, from start up and even some are killed in registry. edit. about "jet engine" from your fans. At normal work PC should be silent. To know temps in gaming, install in game monitoring program. Ex. in my PC I have 5 in-out fans and even now, when temperature at home is very high (hot summer), I run them on the slow speed, becouse I have not a problem with overheating. But I know exactly maximum good temperatures for mine: CPU, GPU, mainboard, which cannot be exceed.

HDMI from GPU was connected to TV on the same input as was from integrated card ? Or to second TV input (if avaiable ?) ? Then, did You changed this inupt as primary on Your TV ? edit: You say - yes in 1 post, so it's very strange that You have no signal.

By the way You have 304 processes running ?! My optimized Windows 10 is running only 87 at normal work. You have total mess. Read about Windows optimization, use "autorun" program by SysInternals to deselect not needed auto start programs, and minimize number of services running. Anyway even with such amounts of processes You system should not work like that. Probably a virus or a broken program. Mayby some drivers interfere each other. You should start from clean Windows install and check CPU utilization after installing every next used program. Meanwhile unticking all the "crap" which come with them in services and in Windows start up. And You will find the "offender". And there is not need to run at full speed your processor in Windows, while not gaming or doing some very CPU consuming work like video editing - etc. Use power save plan, becouse you are wasting many Watts/hour for nothing.

What ? Sum all your programs and You will see almost 100% on that screen. 3 first are taking 50%. Something is very broken in your system, becouse how for example Outlook can use almost 19% ? Desktop Windows Manager at 7,6% ? At most sum of all those programs should use a few percent of Your processor. And of course "System Idle process" means - no process at all. Mine Outlook 0% use most the time, while having much worse processor and using saving power plan, which make all the 4 of his cores work at 800 Mhz.

It's much better to use jumper and wait a few sec, to do that.

>My CPU is shows as constantly at 100% usage no matter what I'm doing. >(...) -There are no processes in Task Manager that would cause the CPU to be taken up. Those statements are contrary. In good optimized Windows not matter a version my CPU usage in iddle should be most the time 0-1%. > THE PROBLEM DOES NOT PERSIST ON A FRESH WINDOWS INSTALL Exactly as it should. Something is sucking all Your resources in your " ORIGINAL WINDOWS", whatever it means. So how you can't see that faulty process in task manager ? Click processor usage tab and You will see it.

This is looks like on Dell P1230 with Mitsubishi tube with 970 GTX in 1600x1200 100 Hz res. Picture done by phone is not perfect, but in reality I do not see any distortion. Cable used is rather cheap, but good quality and done for CRT, not like those very thin which comes with LCD.

I didn't saw such behaviour on 960 and 970 GTX. At least when using 1600x1200 100 Hz image looks perfect for me. But my 960 started after some time of using it, flickering horizontally only on analog output, when card was loaded more then 30%.

I am using gtx 970 with DVI-I. Converting from digital ports is no so simple, becouse there is only a few ones which works with high refresh rates. In fact there is only the best with more then 500 pixel clock - Sunix DPU 3000 working on displayport (not avaiable from long time in EU/NA), rest much cheaper but weaker (up to 1920x1200 85 HZ) are on USB-C. And you will see nothing until full Windows load, when using converter. Some report flicker or other problems too on hi res.

I am in the same boat still having Phenom II 965. At first I looked for wrong path of FX 8350, becouse i didn't wanted to change an entire system. But Ryzen's are faster and more power efficient then old tech. So will wait for a newest ones.

Still using CRT monitors as main screens. Have some of them like Sony 24' FW 900 and Dell P1230 21' with Mitsubishi tube or P1130 20' with Trinitron one. Working res are 1920x1200 95 Hz with Sony 24, and 1600x1200 100 Hz with Dell-s. I use fresnel lens exactly like on this photo for gaming (i am not retro gamer). It makes screen visually like 32' with additional real depth effect. Looks like soft 3D. You can of course use it with LCD too. With CRT you don't need ex. vertical sync becouse there is absolutly no tearing like on digital devices. So CRT is still alive and kickin in and with fresnel lens to make it bigger, there are not worse then other technologies. Just bulkier, heavy and taking 120 Watt. Why I am still am using them ? Becouse my eyes can't stand staring into both CCFL and LED lights. With CRT or lamp projection with LCD (ex. Sony rear projection SXRD TV) I can watch 24 hours/day while after using "modern" techs my eyes are in pain, red and feel like sun burned. Even when using them with zero brightness ...

Picture quality and colour on RGB SCART is perfect. It's just like on normal VGA going up to 1080i. You can force any resolutions using using CRU (program for EDID simulation) with Radeon card. Just make resolution, reload Windows and it will shown at once. It worked in Win 8 and now in 10 too. And picture looks like this: But those 100 Hz Sony-s from Europe having Super Fine Pitch (1440x1080i) work only at max x576i 50 Hz anyway. The tube can accept higher res, RGB Euro connector too, but European versions has no circuits to display them properly (there is not an option to disable 100 Hz conversion). But thanks to doubling 50 Hz to 100 Hz internally, there is no flickering at least. Problem in Windows seems related just to NVIDIA. So just buy an old cheap Radeon as I did. Problem can be custom VGA->SCART cable avaiability too (as I know standard cables advertised as: SCART->VGA cable will not work probably ?). In my country i can buy good one for about 10 USD. But You have Sony Hi-Scan tube with 853x1080i, so it seems 1024 cannot be shown horizontally without distortion.

The ultimate Windows could be only done by programs like Ntlite. But it takes time, knowledge and many tries to work properly. Becouse when You start throwing things away you can't stop doing that ? But after that Windows 10 will be fully customized to Your needs, with zero bloatware and have a small footprint on HDD and memory. The best You can get is about 2,5 GB after install, 650 MB memory used and 40 services running in 64 bit version. There will be a lot of errors in event viewer, but it will work 0% CPU and HDD all the time. Super fast in simple tasks, but measured FPS in games or benchmark would be almost the same (0,1% difference or less) on modern equipment. But You will be a king here, not M$, especially when upgrading such system by offline updater or just rebuilding it from time to time from scratch to a newer version. I am using it, and it works even on my old laptop with 1 GB RAM.

Misleading ? Mine PSU has 1x8 PIN for CPU. Abhi1401 said that he have only 1x4 at first, then he has two, but with the "not correct shape". Sry - don't know what is a true specification of this model, just reading what he said. It depends. Even average noname PSU can last 10 years or more and the best can fail much faster. Always You can replace old or faulty capacitors and use it again for a very long time. Of course when Your machine cost thousends of USD, you must be carefull with old ones, but when a few hundread bucks, then risk is rather minimal. In 25 years of using computers only one - a new PSU has burned for me, but without any damage for computer. Others just failed becouse capacitors, and systems was just crashing from time to time. So it's better not to leave any working machine (especially older) without human presence or we are risking fire. By the way I am still using old CRT monitors, some very old ones from 20 years ago- without single repair, so it looks like that some things could last even a few decades ... Misleading is a trust, that every piece of equipment must be scrapped after a few years of use. This opinion is probably forced by producers, to sell more crap, but in fact many things are just ending their lifes becouse outdating.

I am using LaserJet M1132 MFP bought few years ago. My first check was opinions (which was very good) and not qenuine toners avaiability. What I can say ? It's perfect working model with scanner. The best is I am using it with CE 285A refurbished tonners non-stop avaible for 3.50 USD ? It was awesome deal ...

One of the cheapest 2x8 GB DRAM4 which I probably buy myself are only 100 USD. Patriot Viper 4 C4-24000 (3000 MHZ) 16-18-18-36 1.35 V which is compatibile with Ryzen. https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/20c502_51d5aa428b1c4863a2c68834532c13ce.pdf Anyway this computer has 1 TB HDD which is not optimal choice becouse 3 TB drives are almost the same cost. It looks like overkill, but nowadays 1 game can consume about 100 GB and 1 TB is not a good choice. and this RX 580 video card is almost like old Gtx 970 4 GB which you can buy used for another 100 USD now. I have builded every of my computer from 20 years for now. Those days I had almost zero knowledge, but every of them was working as it should. Just try it yourself. Watch some video about it and you will be fine. Knowlegde will be a bonus and saved $ too.

Single 4 PIN as I read can supply no more then 144 Watt. Adapter is changing nothing. Suppling more then that that, can melt such adapter or wires, so as I said do not overclock your CPU manually (higher that boosted 4,2 Ghz)

Not correct shape probably will not fit for 99%. Just buy for 1-3 USD ? I have read that many old motherboards were working even when plugged with 4 PIN into 8 pin socket. But I do not know what problems could it trigger. One person said that mainboard can start but can be unstable, so I think it's better not to risk on newest equipment.