Seb_1

We have absolutely no idea why it blew up.  Checked the power cord with a multimeter and it was fine.  Replaced the switch and all has been good.

The most highly-anticipated video in recent memory.

Internally this is a living document, and may change as we move forward, but as part of our push for further transparency, we are publishing it in its current form to help our community better-understand how we classify errors and what action we will be taking to rectify them.
 
Types of errors
Flubs: the host simply misspoke
Incongruencies: information within the video is not in agreement (e.g. host says “$45” while the product page shows “$47”
Bad spec: a table or MOGRT contains incorrect information (e.g. “48MB” instead of “96MB”
Bad data: a graph or visualization contains data (generated by us) that is erroneous, misplaced, or spurious. 
Bad info: a statement or representation in the video that is misleading or factually inaccurate
Types of error correction
Proactive (before the video is posted)
Video pickup: the segment is re-shot with both audio and video
Human audio pickup: new audio is recorded for the segment (visuals have coverage)
AI audio pickup: new voiceover is generated. In the best case this uses a voice model that sounds like the host. However, using a robot voice  can still work.
Text on screen: the editor overlays clarifying or correcting text
This will not be received by viewers who are not (or cannot) watching the screen
Reactive (after the video is posted)
Video Replace: replacing the video with a new version without re-uploading
This relies on YouTube and takes some time. There are fairly strict guidelines around the use of this tool and strong justification must be provided for all changes. This is preferred to a re-upload, but there is likely a soft-limit on how often we can use this resource.
Re-upload the video: Set the original, erroneous video to Private and upload a new version. This will have algorithmic effects, but must be done if replacement is not an option
Pinned comment: add a comment describing the correction. 
This will not be received by viewers who do not check the comments (common, especially for those watching on a Smart TV) and should only be used for low-severity errors.
 
Assessing & Responding to Errors
If any of the following types of errors are discovered prior to filming (e.g. during script review) , fix them before the shoot.
 
1. Very Low Severity
- The statement could possibly be misunderstood, but it’s generally true and most people would be fine with how it’s currently presented.
- eg. The host says, “One of DisplayPort’s main advantages over HDMI is its higher bandwidth,” but this is only true when comparing certain generations of the standards. HDMI 2.1, for example, has much higher bandwidth than DP 1.1.
 
Action: no action
 
2. Low Severity
- The statement is incorrect, and we should try to clarify it better in the future, but we can leave it for now because it doesn’t meaningfully impact a viewer’s purchase decision or general knowledge.
- eg. The host says, “This monitor features moderate pixel response times and contrast because it uses an IPS panel”, but the panel manufacturer is actually AUO, rather than LG, so it’s not an IPS panel - a term which is trademarked by LG - but rather an IPS-type or IPS-like panel.
 
Action: Pinned comment
Note: Pinned comment text must be approved by the Community Coordinator before being posted.
 
3. Medium Severity
- The statement is incorrect, and a minority of the audience could be upset or misled, even if it doesn’t really affect the outcome of the product evaluation for the majority.
- eg. The host says, “This GPU has AMD’s AMF video encoder, which is basically the same as NVIDIA’s NVENC,” but while the stated functionality is the same, NVENC offers better image quality, which could be important to a small minority of buyers.
 
Action: Video replaced if possible according to YouTube policy, otherwise pinned comment and above fold mention of the issue in the video description
If doing a video replace, a pinned comment should communicate this is coming and note the expected changes. This comment should be un-pinned when the video replace is complete. 
Note: Pinned comment text must be approved by the Community Coordinator before being posted.
 
4. High Severity
- The statement is incorrect, and a significant portion of the audience could be misled or make a poorly-informed purchase decision.
- eg. The host says, “This is a great gaming monitor,” when in fact, the monitor is a 60Hz VA display that, while ‘fine’ for playing games, lacks important gaming-centric features that could be easily had for the same price, making it a poor choice. 
 
Action: Video replaced if possible according to YouTube policy. Otherwise, set unlisted and disable monetization until corrective action can be taken. 
If doing a video replace, a pinned comment should communicate this is coming and note the expected changes. This comment should be un-pinned when the video replace is complete. 
Note: Pinned comment text must be approved by the Community Coordinator before being posted.
 
5. Very High Severity
- The statement is VERY incorrect—basically the opposite of correct. There is no charitable interpretation that could make this anything but completely irresponsible.
- ex. The host says, “Most games require only one high-performance core to perform their best,” when that hasn’t been true for over a decade.
 
Action: Video removed or remade

Yes true but for this guy (seeming a kid) you dont want to reinstall your router os / mess with ip configs. So im trying to make it simple for him to just get it working with what he has.

Yes true but for this guy (seeming a kid) you dont want to reinstall your router os / mess with ip configs. So im trying to make it simple for him to just get it working with what he has.

Ok there is a function called bandwidth limit
 
Do you know how to access your router first of all and what the admin logins are? if not they are normally on the bottom of your router ps (DO NOT SEND A PHOTO SO ANYONE CAN ACCESS YOUR NETWORK). Then once you are in go to your routers ip (if on windows open command prompt and do ipconifig, not sure for macos).
 

I mean its zen on 4 stick configuration, its always pissy. Updating BIOS is a good start but getting it to work at 3200 with known random bin like Adata is more like Russian Roulette than a normal Roulette in terms of success.
 
Id rather OP sell the 2x8 stick and get a 2x16GB kit. Yes, RAM sells slower than others on the marketplace but if you let them haggle, you can win.

Are you sure its Farenheit not celcius? if its metric then check if you pulled off the plastic over on the bottom of the cpu cooler, if its farenheit then youre fine as its around 35 celcius.

fix it then sell it............

Youre fine, you have a rtx 3070 that is being bottlenecked by your 4790K. No wonder its cores are under full stress.

Youre fine, you have a rtx 3070 that is being bottlenecked by your 4790K. No wonder its cores are under full stress.

This from back in the day where USB ports could not supply more than 500mA, stuff that needed more power had a 2nd plug like this to take power from 2 ports.
Nowadays pretty nuch any single port will be enough, so no point connecting the 2nd.

also @djsy100mark @DrDrayas the answer so this thread can be closed.

Why does it say USB (Serial ATA) in the picture?  
If the drive is connected through USB,  35 MB/s is typical for a USB 2.0 connection.  USB 3.0 should do 150-200 MB/s but this drive can't do such high speeds. 
 
According to datasheet (see page 8) : https://www.seagate.com/www-content/product-content/seagate-laptop-fam/mobile-hdd/en-us/docs/100775165b.pdf
your model can do UP TO 140 MB/s (if the data is continuously arranged at the edge of the platter where you get most spins under the read/write heads) ... as the heads move towards the other edge of the platter, speed will decrease. 
 

Yea like this is fine. Since you are familiar with pcs and can diagnose whats wrong with it its fine to get a cheap psu. But for newcomers its better just to get something thats going to work for now, plus I am kinda skeptical about no name brands as I have had the magic smoke escape from a few new cheap psus.

The Noctua NH-D15S (make sure to get the S variant) will just barley fit in your case. This will cool your CPU fine.

Lubricant won't thicken or change viscosity in a detrimental way until well below your current temps (below freezing is when I'd worry) . You're fine.

If it aint broke, dont fix it.
 
But seriously the H150i is a good cooler and theres no need to swap it. plus the ml120 fans that are on it are pretty quiet anyways.

Is this some sort of a joke question? Stuff you are planning to get is basically e-waste status. You really have to know what you are doing with hardware that old,  so it strikes a bit of a surprise you would ask which is better.
You can get used 900 series stuff that would serve you much better that some 750Ti or a laughable 1030...
 
You better be getting all of your stuff for free or near scrap value or else you are paying too much

What is your use-case? If you're running this chip without a graphics card, and you're hoping to do any gaming, your first step is to overclock the iGPU. Your second step is to realize that the overclock hasn't helped much and that you need to invest in a dedicated graphics card.
 
You're not going to get big gains with overclocking these days. AMD and Intel have pushed both of their chips to the limit to compete with one another. It isn't like the old days where 20%, 40%, or even 80% gains on CPU OC were possible. The 13600K is the best candidate for overclocking of the current generation, as you can get a meaningful-ish boost in core frequencies, but once you get about 5.3-5.5 all-core on the P-cores, and 4.1-4.3GHz on the E-cores, you've in all likelihood hit the max unless you have a golden chip. You can mess with doing a per-core OC, with higher OC values when using fewer cores, but it won't help much in most real-world uses.

If its like this its prob a much older bios version and youll need to get a cheap cpu (from either a friend) or used to use to update the bios.

Alright sounds like a windows/driver issue. When you get into windows if it instantly turns black then try power cycling it a couple times when it is booting, then power cycle it 3 times (turn it off and on again) when it is booting into windows. This will get you into windows recovery and you should be able to access boot options and then choose safe mode (make sure its the one with networking) and then you can re-install your gpu drivers.
 
You may aswell wipe them with DDU to ensure a clean install.
 
DOnt hesitate to ask at any time, were here to help.

Issue is (in a previous post) he said he has a 15-1600kf, so no IGPU

What gpu and what monitor. If its a nvida GPU make sure that you select PC resolutions (youll need to scroll down a bit)
 

Pressing shift is only half of the way. When you are booting is there a little part at the bottom of the screen that says something like press F12 or DEL to get into bios.