TicsMcgee

What dac are you using?

Actually just for anyone reading this in future I'm not sure now if that combo would work well as Sennheiser only rate the gsx1000 and gsx1200 to 150 ohm for headphones.. Any other suggestions on a good gaming orientated amp or alternatively other good quality, great sounding headphones that have a 150 ohm rating that people could recommend? Edit: Did a quick search and this looks alright.. Creative Sound BlasterX G6 Hi-Res Gaming DAC and USB Sound Card.. rated up to 600 ohm. I'm only going to get the 250 ohm 990s so I think this should work.. any opinions on the BlasterX G6?

Oh awesome thank you! The gsx 1000 is a bit cheaper and lol Im a sucker things that say pro and now even super but anyway that's a different story lol so I'll definitely have a look at that.. and yeah virtual surround is something I definitely want make use of, I like that widened soundstage sound which is another reason I'm excited for some open backed cans compared to the closed I've always had.. And currently I honestly can't tell any difference between using Dolby Atmos on or off with my current headset so Im really hoping this new setup gives me a proper 360 deg audio situation.. Anyways thanks heaps for your answer that puts my mind at ease at bit.. Edit: also I do love my base so even more reason to get the 990s I think ?

Hey all, So I'm looking at getting some Beyerdynamic DT990 Pros to upgrade my Plantronics rig 500 pro gold and I'm thinking of pairing the beyers with the Sennheiser gsx 1200.. My mobo is a Asus z77-m pro which has the Realtek alc892 audio codec and its getting on a bit in age and I can't help but feel like I could be getting better audio performance. But idk as I don't have anything to compare it to.. so I guess I'm also wanting reassurance that I'm not just wasting my money in buying the dt990s and an amp when the main use is be gaming, and some youtube, music but I don't have any studio quality tracks soo... Idk if I should just keep the RIG headset. Any other suggestions, Id rather keep it as cheap as possible without cheaping out either if you know what I mean... Also i should mention I don't need the use of the headset mic as I use a standalone one... Any help would be muchly appreciated!

Hey guys, So yesterday I decided to install a third hard drive in my system, I originally had windows installed on a 120 gigabyte SSD and I had a one terabyte western Digital green for storage. I then found another old western Digital 1 terabyte caviar green hard drive at home and decided to add it to my PC, as who doesn't like extra storage.. After installation I rebooted windows to find that I had a blank screen with cursor input, alt control delete wouldn't work there was no taskbar no desktop image just blank dual monitors with a mouse pointer. So I did a hard reset. Same thing. Ran chkdsk /f and /X, SFC /scannow all the standard stuff; no errors found. So I disconnected the SSD thinking there must be a problem with that even though command didn't find any. I then subsequently reinstalled windows on one of the 7200 RPM western Digital drives to see if that booted. That worked fine, windows started so I decided to plug in the SSD to see if I could get the data off it as my motherboard supports hot swapping, so I plugged the 120gb SSD back in which caused the whole computer to lock up. So restarted again, disconnected the SSD and resided myself to the fact that it had finally died. So moving forward to today I go and buy a new SSD to reinstall windows onto, I'd left the two western Digital discs connected (both of which all seem to be working fine on the windows install that I did last night on one of them), installed windows to the new SSD which went fine and then boots up same problem as yesterday blank screen with cursor input. So I disconnected the two wd hdds, and windows boots fine with just the one SSD connected. I then connected one of the HDDs back up, still boots fine, connected the third and low and behold, same behaviour. I then switched the HDD drives to check if the third drive boots when the second HDD is connected and it did. But connecting that third drive (the one I had connected second in the previous test) in order to see if it still booted was caused the blank screen again. It seems to be the connection of the third drive (no matter which) that stops windows booting and gives this wierd environment where it hasn't fully crashed but has the same functionality of a brick. So do you guys think that this sounds like a memory controller issue or an issue with the PSU simply not being able to provide enough power to the third device. Any help would be a big help Cheers Julian P.s. my rig is as follows: P8Z77-M PRO I7 3770k @ 4.5 and 1.29v ML240R aio 16gb Corsair vengeance LP DDR3 Auros Rtx 2060 99% the PSU is a CoolerMaster 700w

Thanks for the answers.. also just read this which may be of use to someone else as it also answered whether the x8 will be an issue and even a quick glance at those graphs show there really isn't a perceptible difference.. be interested to know as Steve notes as to whether or not the performance is different with a lower vram buffer; I guess if it's needing to move more data back and forth whether that could change things?! Meh who knows, may have to look at getting an aio if I want to use the x16 slot ? https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/2488-pci-e-3-x8-vs-x16-performance-impact-on-gpus

Ahh that's interesting. Thanks for pointing that out!

Hey all, Im hoping someone here can help with an issue I'm having. I have an Asus P8Z77-M Pro with an i7 3770k @ 4.4ghz, 8gb LP Corsair vengeance ram @ 1600mhz, a phanteks tc14pe cooler and I just put an rtx 2060 into it. It's the cooler and graphics card that are the issue. The card I've upgraded from was a GTX 780 and whilst there was not much clearance between the edge of the cooler and the graphics card PCB originally with that, I didn't think the 2060 would be an issue. However I didn't account for how large the backplate is on the aorus 2060. Ultimately I couldn't get it to fit it the first pcie slot so I switched to the second one which is Labelled x16 and also says as much in the bios. For some reason though it only wants to run at x8. Does anyone know the cause and/or if there is a solution other than a new motherboard as that would also mean I'd probably need (or want ?) a newer CPU to which needs new ram and just don't really want to have to go down that route if I can avoid it right now. I've read anecdotes of people saying that a 1080ti has no real noticeable difference whether it's running in x8 or with the extra lanes that x16 offers and if true I guess then I probably don't need to worry anyway as my card doesn't actually hit the level of performance a 1080ti offers.. Anyway let me know if I can give any more info.. Cheers all P.s. added an image to show that it is in a card slot labelled x16 in the bios and to show the clearance issue