HuskyPies

Power supply did die. Getting a replacement fixed the issue. Everything works fine now with no shut offs.

Hi, I have a surge protector outlet strip. Sounds like if that were the case, everything would shut off, not just the PC but EVERYTHING. It was just the PC that shut off. I was still getting power, but my PC was just not turning on all the way. I had lights to my ram and motherboard, lan lights flickering, etc but nothing happened when I actually turned it on besides my ram sticks lighting up and a clicking sound from the PSU, so I assumed the PSU just died.

I didn't lol I probably should have. Might just not have enough power to power everything. I WAS installing several things at once and running a video on YT so that may have just tripped it or blown a fuse. I might need to get a 2000w power supply or something

I found someone else who had the exact same issue and posted about it on Reddit. Another commenter mentioned they had a be quiet power supply die after a year quietly.

My specs: i9 14900k Corsair Dominator Titanium 64gb@6400mhz ASUS Proart RTX 4080 MSI MEG z690 ACE Fractal Design North Charcoal black Tempered Glass 1tb boot, 4tb game drive, both are nvme drives PSU: be quiet! Dark Power PRO 13 1600W Once I got my system fully built, I installed Windows 11, did the setup, and spent about a half an hour doing various things like setting up my game drive, Steam and other programs I use. I installed some games, setup my browser, etc. I decided to wait and listen to some music and while doing so, everything shut off as though it was unplugged from the wall. This was about 30 minutes in of using it with no issues, great temps etc. The motherboard lights were all still on and working fine, indicating I was still getting power. In fact, nothing seemed out of the ordinary until I tried starting the computer. The only thing that turned on were my ram RGB, nothing else. Alongside that, there was a strange constant rapid clicking sound in the power supply that I had never heard before. When everything shut off, I never heard a pop, never saw or smelled smoke, everything looks perfectly fine, but the PC is just not starting. I used to have a power supply that died on me and I got the same exact power cutoff that happened to me now, and the issue resolved itself when I got a new PSU. I was still able to boot though, just not do anything intensive. My PC does not boot at all. Is this a power supply problem or could this be a motherboard problem? I think it could be a PSU problem because nothing even attempts to start up. I think it'd at least start and then fail. (Yes I know my motherboard is eatx but my case is atx. Don't worry, I've managed to fit the motherboard in the case in such a way that the case and the motherboard do not make contact at all, so I don't think the motherboard touched the case and shorted.)

I did this last night to show someone what exactly the issue was I was having. The flash drive never showed up in the boot list, and that's what I needed because I wanted to show someone the error I would get when installing. This wasn't the "Windows can't be installed to this disk" error, this was an error code. A bunch of numbers. I sent it here before. I wasn't able to select it, so I exited the UEFI after troubleshooting, planning to give up at this point, and magically, it booted up to the flash drive. I was like, "Okay, NOW let me show you what's going on." I clicked on the SSD which strangely was ready for installation due to the troubleshooting I had done via my laptop. Surprisingly, it started installing Windows just fine. Installation completely finished successfully, and I booted to Windows and was astonished as how well it ran. I setup everything and shut it down when I was done. Just to recap, to get the solution I got, you have to make sure only one sata cable is connected to the motherboard. Don't have stray cables hanging off of it. Have only the SSD plugged in, and only the flash drive plugged in. Neither the flash drive nor the SSD have to show up in the boot menu, just save and exit and it should boot to the flash drive even though it didn't show up. Things should work fine. Don't know what my issue was, but thank you everyone who commented trying to help. You were a great help.

I have it connected through usb because that's the only possible way at this point to install it. Of course, as I expected, there is another issue. "Windows cannot be installed to this disk. Setup does not support configuration of it installation to disks connected through a USB or IEEE 1394 port." I'm at a loss. There is literally nothing I can do at this point. I can try again on my desktop, but I'm bound to get that error I got last time I tried it, and I'm positive nothing I do will fix the error.

The USB will no longer show up in the bios. My boot drive is still there despite being unplugged from the cables. Maybe the cables still being in the motherboard but not connected to anything is what's causing it, but no, the flash drive doesn't show up anywhere in the bios.

I'll try this.

To recap, where I'm at right now, the usb media drive is created, but it's not showing up in the bios, and even when it was, I'm getting error code 0x80300024. One of the solutions says to make sure the drive I want to install Windows to is at the top of my boot list before trying to install it. I did that. I also unplugged my old boot drive as well and made sure the SSD was the only thing in it, but now it's not recognizing the flash drive. I have the flash drive plugged into a usb hub. I know the USB hub works because my wireless Logitech usb adapter for my mouse is working, hence why I can still use it.

I forgot to mention. I used a laptop to create the flash drive. The laptop has internet which is why I was able to do so. The SSD is working, but I just can't install Windows 10 onto it. I hope that clears it up.

I've been trying my hardest this entire week to get this Samsung 870 EVO 1 TB working. I ordered directly from the Samsung website and it came early. It's brand new, hasn't been used. It sat in the packaging for a little while on my shelf until I was able to get to tinkering with my PC given it was all I had to work on college work, and I wanted to wait until I had a proper laptop to start working on it in case things went wrong, which in this case, they did. I decided I was tired of my current installation of Windows 10, as I had had the drive for years with it on there and the installation was corrupted to all heck with no hope of a fix. At first, I couldn't get the system to boot up with the SSD, but I got that working. (My SATA power connector only has three ports. One of them I have to use for my CPU pump because I don't have a fan and/or a RGB controller hub. I had foolishly plugged the CPU pump power cable into the SSD thinking it only powered the lights and the system would shut off after a little while after being on, so I just unplugged my storage drive and replaced it with that for the time being since I need the data from my boot drive.) Now it's booting up with the SSD in, but nothing I do, no matter how far I get, enables me to be able to install Windows 10 into this thing. I originally was trying to do it via my old boot drive, but since my college class had us do ipconfig /renew in CMD as part of our CMD training, it somehow corrupted my ethernet capabilities and my ethernet capabilities died in the middle of me shopping... For good. This is an issue because for some reason, Windows Media creation tool requires an internet connection. (I was never able to get it fixed no matter what I did. I reset everything, I reinstalled drivers, nothing worked. Up until that point, Windows update wouldn't finish either, so I had to disable it for so long given Microsoft doesn't allow you to shut down or restart without updating. This went on for years until finally I decided just to install the SSD and a new copy of Windows 10, and I received even more issues, hence where I'm at now.) I just went out and bought a 32 GB flash drive to put the Windows 10 installation media onto. At first, I got it to load properly. Tried installing Windows 10 to the boot drive I wanted it to be in, but it gave me an error that said Windows couldn't be installed to that drive. Looked up how to fix that error, and I got it fixed. Turns out the drive had to be cleared. That's fine. I was happy, foolishly thinking that the system would finally work. Tried again, and of course, I got another error. This time, it's error code 0x80300024. I'm so tired at this point, but I'm still pressing on. This is the last custom part in this build of mine to replace the only remaining original part from the old rebuilt I had built a custom PC out of. Every part had been replaced with a better alternative except this, and here I was just about to basically complete the build, except no. One of the potential fixes said "Make sure the drive is first in the boot order." So I did that. I even unplugged my old boot drive as was recommended to me. I booted it back up, and now the flash drive, despite being plugged in, is no longer visible in the boot order. The name for my old boot drive is still in the order despite being unplugged, and so is my SSD, but no flash drive. Great, just great. I have a game project I'm working on and I'm currently out and about so I can't take any pictures of what's wrong yet. I will when I can.

I uninstalled Razer Synapse a long time ago back when it stopped working. What followed was a series of remnants of the program on my OS. I've uninstalled as much as I possibly can AFTER I uninstalled this because the program did a horrible job at cleaning all of it's junk out of my system. Well besides all of this, it's drivers are apparently STILL embedded into my OS. Despite there being basically nothing on my system for their program, there is STILL an audio device under Sound with the label "Razer Surround Audio Controller". So just today I looked at this file's details, and it turns out that this program also installed .sys files into my system32. Yay! Tried deleting one of these files, specifically "RzSurroundVAD.sys" and obviously that didn't work. Tried deleting that same file with CMD, yet I was met with the obvious "Access is denied" despite running the program in administrator. Tried deleting it with Wise Force Deleter and the program says the file doesn't exist. (I had to right click the file and select the "Force delete" option that Wise Force Deleter adds onto the right-click menu.) Well to my surprise, it loaded the file in the program; however, "Unlock & Delete" prompts a message under the "Status" tab that says "Does not exist". This is odd because I got this neat little program called "ASFileFinder" and it actually did find some files from Razer's software and gave some directories; however when I visited these directories, every file that was listed didn't come up in explorer.exe. These files are hiding from me and I'm tired of it. I want them off of my system. What can I do to get rid of the junk this program has left behind?

You can view my specs on my profile. This site has an option for you to give a complete list of specs, and I've just updated them. This problem isn't actually occurring at the moment, but I do remember having some sort of issue similar to this on my old computer back before the hard drive crashed. I left the computer on for too long, and whenever I clicked something, it would spiral up all of whatever was above it, and that made it difficult to click anything. I thought I had a really bad virus, (this was a long time ago) so my mom took it to a PC repair shop, and they cleaned it, but that didn't fix the problem. I found out that the reason the problem was happening was because I had left it on for too long, so I started shutting it down and the problem went away.

Hi forums! So my computer has been running fine ever since I built it, but just tonight I've run into the weirdest issue. While I was working on restoring a friend's photo, I was going back and forth between talking with him and others on Telegram. I moved my mouse over several apps (I had to in order to get back to the program, obviously) and that particular app got highlighted. For some reason, I thought I had clicked it even though I didn't. Apps don't stay highlighted if you simply hover over them. Of course, I had to un-highlight it or else it would bother me, but clicking on the desktop didn't make it go away. In fact, something was wrong with this highlight box. Instead of being a transparent field, it was pitch blue. (Specifically #1E4C8C) I thought it was weird, so I tried clicking on another icon. The icon got highlighted in blue as well! Every app I hovered my mouse over turned blue and there was no way to make it go away! I tried refreshing the desktop, but that ended up turning my entire background into that same color! I no longer have a background on this specific monitor, (monitor 2), and it is simply just a blue background with parts of my original desktop wallpaper showing. This problem occurs on both monitors, and sometimes only works on one. I tried restarting explorer.exe, and it seemed fine for a few seconds, but the problem came back again. I tried restarting the computer, and the problem is back again. One thing I noticed is that drawing a selection field (y'know, that rectangular box you can draw out when you want to select multiple files at once) seems to literally draw the color onto my screen as if my desktop had been turned into the same program I was using to restore my friend's photo. Once the background had completely turned blue, any highlighted apps would show the original desktop in the same manner that it did with the blue color, and using the selection field would seemingly erase the blue color and show the desktop again. I thought I got hacked somehow or that there was some sort of virus deleting files from system32, (since odd things like this have appeared to happen in videos where YouTubers would delete the folder on a virtual machine) so I quickly checked inside of the folder, and it seemed fine. All functionality is also still there besides this odd bug, and videos play fine at any resolution. I scanned my computer with Malwarebytes, and it only found a PUP, so I let Malwarebytes uninstall it because I had only used it once and decided I didn't need it after all. I'm not really sure why exactly this is happening, nor do I know how to fix this, so please let me know what I can do to make the problem go away. Here are some screenshots of this specific monitor as an example: