graberweg

The actual write life is way higher than what the spec states, like 2X or 3X higher. Unless you write crazy amount of GB every day. For most users, it's of zero concern you can wear out a 2TB drive in 10 years.

Correct, as intake
 
Im not sure the issue as I don't have the case, but you can always opt to use 12mm thick fans to still top mount - while not nearly as efficient as SP fans, they do work (Ive used them on 240mm rads)

Not knowing Steam... How long did you sleep?
 
At Steam you can also check Counter Strike: Global Offensive, Robocraft and a bunch of other free-to-play titles.
 
Btw: Several titles on Steam are also DRM-free/playable without Steam/DRM.

If you are new to pc gaming, check Epic Games Store... It gives a free title every day during christmas.
https://www.epicgames.com/store/en-US/

i buy from gog my doom 3 , no ploblema amigo

id has a history of releasing the source code of their games for people to play with. idTech 5 (I think) was the last one released, though, since they got bought up by Bethesda. While the source code is free, you'd still need the resources (models, textures, images, sounds, etc.) that you could only get from a purchased copy of the game.
 
Also for free games, Warframe is a fun one that has all sorts of particle effects, and is fast-paced. It's space ninjas. Also, Doom 2016 (as previously mentioned, though not free) should run incredible on your hardware, as id are voodoo wizards when it comes to game engines, and they seem to run pretty well on potatoes (which, yours is now a step up. Like a peach, or a kiwi).
 
As for storefronts, Steam is the most popular one, and it is nice to be able to have all your games in an easy to access interface, but there are downsides (like Steam's DRM, which is unnoticeable to the typical user). GOG is another good one, which has no DRM, and you can find many of the classics on there.

you pay, and dowload the iso to your pc and you can do with your game anitibg you want , no portal website app whatso over
 
GOG.COM is good olg games drm free forever

No, this is incorrect. Please see "Active vs passive adapters" here: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/?section=active_vs_passive_adapters
 
 
Passive adapters are for connecting ports that already have the required signaling built in by the designers.
 
Active adapters are required for everything else, including various digital-to-digital connections such as DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI, which cannot be done passively. The original post is correct, for >1080p 60 Hz an active DP to DL-DVI adapter is required.
 
Refer to the pinned guide on display adapters:
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/?output=DP&input=DVI
 

Personally I would just go passive. There is really no use in going active in this case.
Here are some recommended in the video adapter guide:
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/729232-guide-to-display-cables-adapters-v2/
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMUL6SI/?tag=linus21-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BI3YEQO/?tag=linus21-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C9M7UG/?tag=linus21-20

It’s completely safe and more often than not, you won’t be able to notice the difference. 
 
Its just not ideal. 

It's best to apply new paste always and apply it in the X pattern edge to edge to each corner of the IHS (but small lines, not thick), not re-use old paste, but if you are absolutely short on paste in an emergency, you can spread it very thin on both surfaces then remount, but that won't give the best temps.
 
The diagonal X pattern gives the best coverage and is better than the single middle dot method.
Of course, on ANY direct die mounts, the paste MUST be spread manually.

When you use the paste it is quite a fluid substance, so constant adjusting of the faces it is supposed to be "bonding" (which is what it's doing, thermal bonding) isn't ideal.
After a while the solvent that gives the compound it's fluidity dries out and any movement of the two faces breaks down the bond irrevocably. This isn't going to happen during a prolonged install though.
 
From what you have described you are in the 50:50 area of maybe not getting proper thermal contact. If it was me, I'd be looking for poor cooling performance and replacing ASAP when I saw this, maybe straight away, maybe in about half the expected life of the bond.
If you are confident you have a technique down that could guarantee a better bond next time round, do it now while you remember how, if not, just keep an eye on temps.
 

Yeah i was going to say 3900x is still perfectly suitable for what he needs in the meantime, and will be a definite upgrade.  As somebody who had the none hyper-threaded sister of the 3700, the 3570 and going to a basic 3600 the difference is profound, hes still getting better then 9900k performance in most work related applications related to a professional
 
I don't think anybody is saying it should be illegal, but rightfully its going to annoy people, as obviously its selfish, albeit profitable

Philosophically one can make money by contributing to society, or one can make money by exploiting society, the best businesses probably have to thread a little bit of a balance of both.  No reason to take personal offence if one chooses purely the latter, people are free to do as they wish, but nobody is going to look back at said persons life who is known for such acts, if its all they do, and go "WOW What a wonderful contribution they made", although likewise how people view others based off business decisions may not tell the whole story of what said type of person they were in all parts of their life (maybe said flipper was a great parent and family member always looking out for others close to them, despite their selfish public business practices etc)

Just need to be patient, usually on new product launches they get bought up quickly by scalpers who try and flip them for large profits the first month or 2. Usually by about month 3, things settle down and return to normal with stock.

Yea I forgot the PSU but wouldn't *any* be pretty OK? ?
 
The GPU I'm not married to anything. I'll check out the Vega 56. I'm prob not gonna game much but I'm open to doing some gaming.

This looks pretty awesome....

Though I would say the GPU is not price/perf. You can get a Vega 56 at that price.

and I would recommend a 5700xp Aftermarket cooler for 420$ or even a 2070$uper for $500+ 

also...PSU?

PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $327.89 @ B&H Motherboard MSI B450-A PRO ATX AM4 Motherboard $84.89 @ OutletPC Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory $89.99 @ Newegg Storage Inland Premium 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $119.99 @ Amazon Storage Toshiba X300 5 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $109.89 @ OutletPC Video Card MSI Radeon RX 580 8 GB ARMOR OC Video Card $159.99 @ Newegg Case Silverstone RL06 ATX Mid Tower Case $91.98 @ Newegg Power Supply BitFenix Formula Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply $75.99 @ SuperBiiz   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1095.61   Mail-in rebates -$35.00   Total $1060.61   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-24 16:17 EDT-0400    

so some gpus and such have two bios chips??  
 
 just in-case you f--k something up on a flash(mining rigs.) I am not extremely familiar, but def see why you would think that from the name....
 
again i am not familiar...just have heard about it on older  gpus during the mining craze...so.....

VRM info
 

https://premiumbuilds.com/motherboards/list-of-motherboards-with-usb-bios-flashback/
 
From what I know...All BIOS flash style features are the same as each other.
 
Though if you look at AsRocks Cpu Compatibility on their mb page. they suggest almost all of their boards are compatible with 3000 series no matter the BIOS
 
though I generally do not like AsRock.

Yes, basically the same thing:


 
And this is ASRock's BIOS Flashback:

You're welcome. The one in the Corsair is even harder to find. It's in some of the photos, but frequently isn't mentioned in the specifications.

Both of those cases have one 5.25 inch slot for an optical drive. I have the R5. The R6 is very nice. I think if you like the style of the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M, you would like these cases too.

You might like the Fractal Design R6 USB-C plus/minus TG (tempered glass.) White, Gunmetal, or Black.
 
https://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/define-series/define-r6-usb-c-black-tg
 
OR the Corsair Carbide 678C:
 
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Cases/Mid-Tower-ATX-Cases/Carbide-Series-678C-Low-Noise-Tempered-Glass-ATX-Case/p/CC-9011170-WW