Renvaar

So I tried absolutely everything I could think off, and ended up just taking everything out and rebuilding outside of the case, and it worked fine... I figured I'd just get a new case rather than spend ages trying to figure out what the case's issue is... Now it turns on fine and everything works inside new case... Only problem I have is despite putting everything back the exactly way it was, HDD's don't spin, or get recognized in bios.... Edit: I should note, using same sata power and data cables, no matter which sata socket I use, my SSD with OS on it is always recognized... But both my HDD's doesn't even spin with just power plugged in. No way I killed 2 HDD's just by moving them across.... I did a bios reset while trying to fix previous problem, maybe that did something...

So I'm using Intel, so just started removing parts, got all the way down to just having the motherboard and CPU... HDD's, GPU, RAM etc all removed. I was still having the issue though. There was actually a moment... Right after switching the power cable for another one and plugging into another socket (wanted to be thorough... and thought maybe plug socket wasn't supplying power properly or cable was bad) that it worked for a little while, so I put everything back turned on again and it worked fine for a few switch ons... Next day I tried to turn it on and exactly the same issue. I had been considering switching to ITX... Perhaps it's time to bite the bullet and switch out the board? Before doing so I might totally take it apart and try turning on outside of case... Just incase something is touching... Have I missed anything? P.S. My board never beeps... I mean... It doesn't even have a speaker. It's in Chinese, but this is the Z170 board I'm using... https://item.jd.com/2037802.html Edit: Oh, I just realized the board has an LED screen for post errors... I always wondered what that was... I'll check what it says when I get home from work...

Hey all, This started a while back, I'd turn on my comp and the case lights and fans would start for half a second before turning back off, this would then happen every few seconds until I turned the back of the comp off. A few attempts like this, usually turning it off at back and holding power button down a while (read somewhere drains any remaining power) before trying again and it'd come on eventually. Switched the then 800W cooler master to a cheaper 600W PSU and it was working fine for a while, until this started happening again after a month or so of being fine. So now I'm doubtful it was the PSU causing the issue... Can anyone suggest any troubleshooting steps, or suggestions of what part to consider is the problem first? I was thinking the next thing would be the motherboard? Couldn't be BOTH PSU's are on the fritz right? The 800W one was brand new...

I just got an Acer Nitro and my first step was to re-paste with a premium paste, I'd say it's a must in a lot of laptops. I can't talk as to the quality of your MSI laptops paste though, but I do know the Acer Nitro's are said to be very poor out of the factory. You'll get a much better outcome with both a repaste AND an undervolt. I'm stable at -160 on my i5 9300H, You'd best google what others are getting on their i7 9750H's, start lower than what you find and build up slowly.

Hey all, So I'm not much of a laptop gamer as I'm a real stickler for fan noise and temps when gaming, and most machines in my budget sound like a jet engine even with some moderate gaming. I recently got the Acer Nitro (i5 9300H+1650) though and was pleased with the performance for the price, but boy are laptops hot and loud when coming purely from desktop gaming! A quick re-paste, -160 undervolt to the CPU, and disabling boosting (barely saw any fps difference in less demanding titles), and I'm amazed Overwatch, that would have hit 70-80 before on cpu, is now staying within low 60's. On to my problem then... I'm guessing Acer's fan 'control' software Nitrosense isn't designed for much tinkering, or designed with low temperatures in mind because even when gaming at a solid 60°C, the fans are at the same speed they would be at mid 70's when on auto, and turning off auto and dropping the fan speed with their VERY basic slider does absolutely nothing, and there's no fan curve or other options available... Have I hit the limit of returns here and just have to accept the unnecessary noise? I'm very surprised at the lack of a customizable curve, I could very easily decrease the fans and still stay at 70 degrees or so with the titles I'm playing but I seem to have hit a wall?

It's a totally random, Chinese made office case... Don't think I could find it online even if I wanted to.... I guess I just wait till the office is empty and flip the fan around first... Edit: Also read you can get a pretty decent undervolt on these cards to help with heat.... Only ever done modest OC's tho... Guess that's a topic for another forum section...

What's up guys, I've done a little browsing on this but would love direct opinions. I've got an RX470D and a G4560 in my work PC, enough for some light gaming at lunch. Temps are fine really, but it never hurts to make sure they stay as low as possible and I like fiddling. As a work pc case, there's no way to use front mounted intakes in these office style cases, all the case has is a 12cm side mount, and a 8cm that I've got as exhaust. My problem is the 12cm side mount, it's above the graphics card, more directly over the CPU, which uses a stock-style low cooler. I just stuck a fan there as an intake, thinking 1 intake and 1 exhaust makes sense in any situation, but my GPU temp actually seems to have taken a 15 degree jump from it's 50-ish idle to around 65... After some reading, having the side panel as an intake when it's above the graphics card rather than below, might be blowing plenty of new air on the CPU, but it's actually preventing the heat from the GPU from rising? So should I make this an exhaust like the back fan, or scrap it all together? Only other fan is the PSU at top of cause, taking air from within the case and exhausting out. Everything's around that CPU, which is idling at 27....