DamonK

Here is something for CAD workers and Gamers. Also used by those with disabilities. The legendary Logitech Trackman Marble FX T-CJ12 Trackball. A trackball that can be manipulated with precision between thumb and fingers, and with a finger flip move anywhere on the screen. Great for repetitive motions as your arm from the wrist to shoulder need not move in normal use.
 

 
 I have been hoarding these for decades. Yes sir found a stock of new OEM balls also. The balls are durable but can get dimpled and scratched.
.

 
New units come with: a sealed software packet shipped folded inside the users guide which is itself factory sealed; an instructional hang-tag on the P/S2 to serial adapter, a loose warranty card, usually a quick start card, and occasional a separate brochure.
 

 
These work as "Plug and Play" [no extra software required] three button devices under all modern OS with a PS/2 serial port. Port is typically added with a USB dongle.
 
OR
 
I have converted several internally to USB by adding the necessary hardware inside the trackball's case. Below is the one I am using now.
 


 
When you find these today most are wore out from twenty years of use.  I have many new and used T-CJ12s. With experience it is easy to know how used they are. I have a form I use to rate them, before packing and storing them.
 
Keeping it simple:
Is it in its original box? = the ball and buttons are very susceptible to damage in handling and storage,
Check the logo - logo worn away = unit worn out,
Check the color and texture - the duckbill is originally textured = it gets dingy, yellowed and/or worn smooth from years of use, 
Check that the bottom sticker is not pierced or peeled by the serial number [hidden case screw] = attempted repairs most often mean trouble,
Check that all buttons click properly and audibly; test two larger buttons at all corners. = buttons do wear out.
Check the ball carefully - if a dimple or scratch on the ball catches a sharp pencil point = the ball is bad and possibly the bearings,
Check the bearing cups for ware and damage = any damage renders the device trash,
Check the the IR window is intact - missing IR cover = abuse,
Check the four bottom pads - soiled, worn, missing = how hard has its life been,
. . .
I have similar points that I use when verifying that trackballs are new. Many I acquired new, but others were NOS open boxes. Some units where represented as new but on inspection were actually used.  I have many points I check to rate them. Of course if the cord is loose or the software open a trackball may be nearly new, but can never be new. The teal swoosh and red mark in the logo are solid, inspecting the logo under magnification will quickly show a units use as the decal initially wears quickly [leaving gaps, spots] until its worn smooth then it takes years of heavy use to disappear entirely.
 
I should note that having had the opportunity to use multiple newer vintage trackballs in the last several years that the smoothness and fluidity of ball movement and the responsiveness of clicks improves through the first few hundred hours of use for trackballs that have sat unused for 15+ years. I believe the bearing get smoother and the clicks more responsive with use. 
 
I have a T-CJ12 that I bought from a man who received it from Logitech back in the day, he reviewed it for a few days, then stored it for 12 years until I bought it. I rated it at 95%. 80-90% is a good used device, these are the ones I convert to USB; very nice but used enough that I do not feel too bad about piercing the label to install the conversion.
 
There is a learning curve with this device, many people set them aside rather than allowing themselves enough time to adapt. I often have kept a second traditional mouse connected to shared computers.
 

Here is something for CAD workers and Gamers. Also used by those with disabilities. The legendary Logitech Trackman Marble FX T-CJ12 Trackball. A trackball that can be manipulated with precision between thumb and fingers, and with a finger flip move anywhere on the screen. Great for repetitive motions as your arm from the wrist to shoulder need not move in normal use.
 

 
 I have been hoarding these for decades. Yes sir found a stock of new OEM balls also. The balls are durable but can get dimpled and scratched.
.

 
New units come with: a sealed software packet shipped folded inside the users guide which is itself factory sealed; an instructional hang-tag on the P/S2 to serial adapter, a loose warranty card, usually a quick start card, and occasional a separate brochure.
 

 
These work as "Plug and Play" [no extra software required] three button devices under all modern OS with a PS/2 serial port. Port is typically added with a USB dongle.
 
OR
 
I have converted several internally to USB by adding the necessary hardware inside the trackball's case. Below is the one I am using now.
 


 
When you find these today most are wore out from twenty years of use.  I have many new and used T-CJ12s. With experience it is easy to know how used they are. I have a form I use to rate them, before packing and storing them.
 
Keeping it simple:
Is it in its original box? = the ball and buttons are very susceptible to damage in handling and storage,
Check the logo - logo worn away = unit worn out,
Check the color and texture - the duckbill is originally textured = it gets dingy, yellowed and/or worn smooth from years of use, 
Check that the bottom sticker is not pierced or peeled by the serial number [hidden case screw] = attempted repairs most often mean trouble,
Check that all buttons click properly and audibly; test two larger buttons at all corners. = buttons do wear out.
Check the ball carefully - if a dimple or scratch on the ball catches a sharp pencil point = the ball is bad and possibly the bearings,
Check the bearing cups for ware and damage = any damage renders the device trash,
Check the the IR window is intact - missing IR cover = abuse,
Check the four bottom pads - soiled, worn, missing = how hard has its life been,
. . .
I have similar points that I use when verifying that trackballs are new. Many I acquired new, but others were NOS open boxes. Some units where represented as new but on inspection were actually used.  I have many points I check to rate them. Of course if the cord is loose or the software open a trackball may be nearly new, but can never be new. The teal swoosh and red mark in the logo are solid, inspecting the logo under magnification will quickly show a units use as the decal initially wears quickly [leaving gaps, spots] until its worn smooth then it takes years of heavy use to disappear entirely.
 
I should note that having had the opportunity to use multiple newer vintage trackballs in the last several years that the smoothness and fluidity of ball movement and the responsiveness of clicks improves through the first few hundred hours of use for trackballs that have sat unused for 15+ years. I believe the bearing get smoother and the clicks more responsive with use. 
 
I have a T-CJ12 that I bought from a man who received it from Logitech back in the day, he reviewed it for a few days, then stored it for 12 years until I bought it. I rated it at 95%. 80-90% is a good used device, these are the ones I convert to USB; very nice but used enough that I do not feel too bad about piercing the label to install the conversion.
 
There is a learning curve with this device, many people set them aside rather than allowing themselves enough time to adapt. I often have kept a second traditional mouse connected to shared computers.
 

Here is something for CAD workers and Gamers. Also used by those with disabilities. The legendary Logitech Trackman Marble FX T-CJ12 Trackball. A trackball that can be manipulated with precision between thumb and fingers, and with a finger flip move anywhere on the screen. Great for repetitive motions as your arm from the wrist to shoulder need not move in normal use.
 

 
 I have been hoarding these for decades. Yes sir found a stock of new OEM balls also. The balls are durable but can get dimpled and scratched.
.

 
New units come with: a sealed software packet shipped folded inside the users guide which is itself factory sealed; an instructional hang-tag on the P/S2 to serial adapter, a loose warranty card, usually a quick start card, and occasional a separate brochure.
 

 
These work as "Plug and Play" [no extra software required] three button devices under all modern OS with a PS/2 serial port. Port is typically added with a USB dongle.
 
OR
 
I have converted several internally to USB by adding the necessary hardware inside the trackball's case. Below is the one I am using now.
 


 
When you find these today most are wore out from twenty years of use.  I have many new and used T-CJ12s. With experience it is easy to know how used they are. I have a form I use to rate them, before packing and storing them.
 
Keeping it simple:
Is it in its original box? = the ball and buttons are very susceptible to damage in handling and storage,
Check the logo - logo worn away = unit worn out,
Check the color and texture - the duckbill is originally textured = it gets dingy, yellowed and/or worn smooth from years of use, 
Check that the bottom sticker is not pierced or peeled by the serial number [hidden case screw] = attempted repairs most often mean trouble,
Check that all buttons click properly and audibly; test two larger buttons at all corners. = buttons do wear out.
Check the ball carefully - if a dimple or scratch on the ball catches a sharp pencil point = the ball is bad and possibly the bearings,
Check the bearing cups for ware and damage = any damage renders the device trash,
Check the the IR window is intact - missing IR cover = abuse,
Check the four bottom pads - soiled, worn, missing = how hard has its life been,
. . .
I have similar points that I use when verifying that trackballs are new. Many I acquired new, but others were NOS open boxes. Some units where represented as new but on inspection were actually used.  I have many points I check to rate them. Of course if the cord is loose or the software open a trackball may be nearly new, but can never be new. The teal swoosh and red mark in the logo are solid, inspecting the logo under magnification will quickly show a units use as the decal initially wears quickly [leaving gaps, spots] until its worn smooth then it takes years of heavy use to disappear entirely.
 
I should note that having had the opportunity to use multiple newer vintage trackballs in the last several years that the smoothness and fluidity of ball movement and the responsiveness of clicks improves through the first few hundred hours of use for trackballs that have sat unused for 15+ years. I believe the bearing get smoother and the clicks more responsive with use. 
 
I have a T-CJ12 that I bought from a man who received it from Logitech back in the day, he reviewed it for a few days, then stored it for 12 years until I bought it. I rated it at 95%. 80-90% is a good used device, these are the ones I convert to USB; very nice but used enough that I do not feel too bad about piercing the label to install the conversion.
 
There is a learning curve with this device, many people set them aside rather than allowing themselves enough time to adapt. I often have kept a second traditional mouse connected to shared computers.