TheDelphiDude

I very much doubt that a botched Windows 7 installation will ruin your motherboard.
 
As for the gigabyte tool, you don't need it. As long as the drivers are provided in .INF format you can add them to an image yourself using DISM.

Mount your WIM file for the image (Pro, Home Premium etc.) you wish to install,add the chipset, SATA/NVMe and USB drivers, unmount and try installing again.
 
And I most definitely wouldn't recommend installing an OS that will be obsolete and unsupported in 6 months time. And it's not just Windows that will no longer be supported, as software and hardware (ie, driver) support from 3rd parties will end too.
 
If you do have problems with Windows 10 I'd recommend spending time fixing those problems instead of mucking about with Windows 7.

But then the version of the official live recording from Amsterdam that same year.

I just figured out that in order for the PSU to deliver power it needs to be turned on through the motherboard/front panel connectors and not just simply plugged in, but thanks for the help anyways.

No.
 

Yes and no. It's just the major update (or rather, build), and after installing you'll be offered the most recent cumulative update available. Install Windows before the 2nd tuesday of the month, you'd get the update for the previous month. Install it on or after that 2nd tuesday, you'd get the update for the current month.

Having said that, it's quite easy to add updates to a Windows 10 install image. Not worth the effort when installing a single PC, but the moment you have dozens of systems it can be well worth the effort as it'll save you considerable time in the long run.

Let's see, it allows you to use a product for which you have no license. What do you think?
 
Furthermore, even it was legal, it's still both a shitty and stupid thing to do. Especially considering the fact that the cost of a Windows license pales in comparison to the cost of the hardware and other software (think large Steam library).

If you have an OEM version of Windows, make sure its tied to your Microsoft account before changing hardware. A change of motherboard will most likely have Windows see it as another system requiring activating Windows again, which may fail due to limitations imposed by the OEM license.

Well Mr. Delphi It seems as if slot 3 is no good. My old man will have to settle for 8GB of RAM for now.
 
Thank you so much! Seems like Windows is now installing properly.
I assume RAM can be corrupted as well from a hard restart during a windows update?

MemTest86+ has a bootable ISO for download, so you don't need Windows to run it. Same goes for many harddrive/SSD utilities.

Microsoft still hosts ISO files of older Windows version, so download 1803 in the language and architecture you have, and mount the ISO.
 
Next, try the DISM restore health command again, only this time using the /source switch specifying the <virtual DVD>:\Source\install.esd (or .wim) as the source.

It definitely looks as though the power supply isn't properly plugged in. The 20 and 4 pin connector should be lined up, and in the photos I can see they're clearly not.

Most of those connector have notches or such on them to align them respective of each other, so my recommendation would be unplugging them, and try reinserting them.
 
Also, I agree with @goto10 and @Spotty. One of the RAM modules isn't inserted all the way. Once they are, the plastic clips should snap into place. And the CPU power needs to be plugged in as well.

Get everything out of the case, build it on a flat surface (have the mainboard rest on a non-conductive surface, a cardboard box usually works) to make sure it all works outside the case. Start with the bare minimum (CPU, single stick of memory, onboard graphics) and work your way up slowly adding the remaining memory, HDDs and finally the GPU.
 
You can power on the PC by temporarily shorting the 2 pins for the power switch on the mainboard with a small screwdriver. If everything works outside the case, put everything back. If it still fails to power on, unplug the HDD led, power led and reset switch. If that still fails, unplug the power switch, and connect the reset switch to the power switch pins, and try again.

Either a piece of hardware is broken, or there is something wrong with the case.

I might be possible, but I wouldn't bother if I were you.
 
Given the age of that machine it's bound to be woefully underpowered for Windows 10. Unless it rather amazingly has 4GB of RAM and a decent dual core processor it'll be as much fun as running naked through a field covered in giant hogweed.

Mount your WIM file for the image (Pro, Home Premium etc.) you wish to install,add the chipset, SATA/NVMe and USB drivers, unmount and try installing again.
 
And I most definitely wouldn't recommend installing an OS that will be obsolete and unsupported in 6 months time. And it's not just Windows that will no longer be supported, as software and hardware (ie, driver) support from 3rd parties will end too.
 
If you do have problems with Windows 10 I'd recommend spending time fixing those problems instead of mucking about with Windows 7.

Yeah, WIndows is installed in Legacy Mode. I guess that's the answer to the problem

If the laptop in question has a decent CPU, 4GB of RAM and an SSD Windows 10 should work fine.
 
However, there are two issues you might run into:
 
1. Intel CPU and AMD graphics. This combination should work fine under Windows 7, but under Windows 10 you might get a blank screen at startup which will eventually show the Windows desktop after some considerable time. If that is the case, disable ULPS (ultra-low power state) using regedit and looking for the EnableULPS registry key. If found, and it's a DWord, set it to 0 rather than 1.

2. HP DriveGuard / MobileProtection. Even if there is a Windows 10 driver for said device, always install the Windows 7 one. It might otherwise blue screen with storage related errors.

If Windows update doesn't offer the 1903, it might be because there is something on your system that is not compatble with newer builds of Windows. Since it's unlikely that the hardware is at fault, there might be a piece software that doesn't play nice with 1903.
 
Having said that, was 1809 ever offered through Windows update? Even though you should be able to go from 1803 to 1903 without problems, the fact that an earlier major update is also missing is somewhat telling.
 
At this point I recommend trying to go to 1809 first, using the 1809 media creation tool below:

Windows 10 media creation tool for 1809

Thanks man, you really did solve my problem. I owe you
 
And just two quick questions .. first, do I have to remove the "Windows Boot Manager" as well? This question might be silly, but am curious about it because I thought that the "Boot Configuration Store's" purpose is to store all the operating systems directories.
 
Here's a picture of my command prompt with the information about "bcdedit /v" is displayed, where you can see the "Windows Boot Manager" at first, and followed by "Windows 10 Pro".
 
Second, I have my Windows 10 Pro installed on a 256GB of Samsung's 970Evo NVMe SSD, and I still experience slow boot times (about 1 minute to boot). However on the other hand, I have an HP laptop that has got a 512GB of HyperX SATA SSD, and can boot in about 10 seconds! I don't understand why my PC with an NVMe SSD takes much more time to boot than my laptop with a SATA SSD. Is it because I have lots of programs installed on my HDD? Does that affect the performance of the NVMe SSD?

Thank you veery much sir

Yup that was exactly it much appreciated

I eventually managed to fix the problem. I purchased a cheap powered usb hub and plugged everything related to the Oculus into that, it works properly now. Thanks for all the help

Do you currently have Windows 10 installed on said laptop, and is it activated? If so, you can simply reinstall Windows without supplying a product key and it will activate when you go online.

If you haven't, and you have used magical jellybean to look up the product key, google the actual product key. If it is a regular OEM key (as opposed to a royalty OEM key) you can install Windows 10 using that product key and it should activate when going online.

here's an awesome 50mm prime for a budget, i literally just upgraded but i used this one for about a year and it worked like a charm but did have some CA around the highlights.
 
 https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN50mm-Standard-Aperture-Canon/dp/B00QEXM4YC/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=CjwKCAjw8LTmBRBCEiwAbhh-6JZfIa7SBk1KIMQUHZxMR5grC-lmyUVf6x2BcSUbzfY2BPvUAyT7ThoCjpYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=177270116816&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1020854&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9494337600892404141&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-87194831059&hydadcr=18442_9825162&keywords=yongnuo+50mm&qid=1556996492&s=gateway&sr=8-3

have you read the manual and seen that plugging in the NVMe SSD disabled certain SATA ports?
 
move the HDD and SSD Sata away from the current slots. (usually Sata 1 and Sata 2 are disabled, but this will be specified in the manual)

Thank you very much I really appreciate it.