Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Crave

  1. Hello everyone, I've undervolted MSI RX 580 Armor MK2 in WattMan to see how much temperature will drop from the process of doing it. While the undervolt of all states was successful, i've stumbled upon some strange voltage readings from HWiNFO and GPU-Z. When i was monitoring the card's core voltage, the core temperature was higher than the voltage, which i set on certain states. So, on 600 MHz (which is an idle state of GPU) i found that 750 mV is a stable voltage, but software shows that the current voltage on 600 MHz is 900 V. I'm using Radeon 19.12.2 version. Is it possible that there's something wrong with GPU/WattMan or is it a normal behaviour?
  2. If the memory is going to be GDDR6 and max temperatures are going to be around 60-65C, it's going to be a good 480-580 (maybe 590) replacement.
  3. I've got nothing left, so i'll try it out and see what happens. I've already used EaseUS and GetDataBack programs. While GetDataBack found everything, but in corrupted form, EaseUS found some useless garbage, which didn't even know i had on my drive.
  4. Thank you for reply. Welp, time to redownload every program, game and music, i guess. One bad thing about it is that the drive had some of my work, as well as personal stuff.
  5. Hello everyone, Recently, i accidentally formatted the drive and after that i tried to recover files with some data recovery programs. Even though one of the programs recovered all files, when i try to open any of them, they all seem to be corrupted. My question is, is there any way to recover files from this state or should i just accept it and move on?
  6. Sorry for the late update, but I've installed a 1607 version on a spare SSD without installing any drivers, except the ones, which Windows 10 downloads automatically, and after testing the screens with UFO stutter test/frame rate, i still see major stutters with frame drops on 240 HZ screen whenever i open right mouse click menu on a second screen. This is probably not related to subject, but two week ago, when i was using a PC with my usual storage, i noticed some strange behavior from GPU. When i loaded a WattMan's profile with custom fan curve and undervolted settings for default frequencies, sometimes the whole system either stopped working or there were graphical artifacts on screen. I've tested different voltage with default frequencies in benchmarks/games and everything works fine, so the problem can't be in lack of voltage for certain frequency.
  7. I've checked the recovery and unfortunately, i can't even downgrade to 1809, because it's way past 10 days limit... The only thing left for me is to clean install a 1809 or just deal with 1903's bullsh!t.
  8. Okay, so i tested everything out and both Dota 2/CS:GO runs on 180-220+ FPS on both displays. With VSync, it stays on 60/240 (depends, if the game even supports higher frames). I've also done some experiments, where i was playing a game (ultra settings) and at the same time playing a YouTube video on the second display and there was no stutters on both ends. For now, this is just a theory, but I think that the problem is with Windows, specifically 1903. Unfortunately, i didn't find any spare HDD, so i'm going to put inside an SSD, while disconnecting NVMe and HDD.
  9. Got it. Thanks for the answer. I'll test running the game while dragging it and see the results. In the meanwhile, I'll try to find some spare HDD lying around or just use a new SSD for a quick test, hope 120GB is enough for Windows with drivers. I didn't know that something was changed in multi monitor configuration on 1903. Guess, there's a potential that Bill f@cked up yet again. If it's true, is 1809 stable enough?
  10. I'm using Window 1903, 183622.295 build. Unfortunately, i don't know. The only thing i know is that at one point, when i was watching something on YouTube, i felt that the frame was kinda slow. At first, i didn't care much about it, but after a while, my curiosity took over me and i started to check it. Edit: Should i try to reinstall the whole Windows? 1) I'm using Ryzen 1700X, so there's no integrated GPU in my PC. 2) Yes! Yes! Yes! Yes! 3) Yes! Yes! Yes! Yes! Technically, CB241H is an IPS panel, but that doesn't really matter. Most of the time, i use it only for watching videos/movies and drawing. Play games only on 240hz display. I'm aware about the FPS drop from additional display, but i think that's not the case here. One thing is where by using a second monitor, your game starts playing at let's say 100 FPS instead of 130, another thing is where whenever your cursor goes to another display, your FPS starts to go all over the place.
  11. Hello everyone, I've been using Acer XF250Q Cbmiiprx monitor for a couple of months with Radeon RX 580 ARMOR MK2 8G OC and everything was fine, until i purchased CB241H bmidr, as a second monitor. Whenever there's any kind of animation on my first monitor (background picture changes to another one), the second monitor's videos stutter for 5-10 seconds and then it plays normally. When i tested both monitors in UFO stutter test, Acer XF250Q 240hz suddendly drop to nearly 150 when i open options menu with right click of mouse on second monitor, and when i change background picture to next one, it gets even worse. I've already tried completely removing and installing graphics drivers with DDU, downgrading Radeon drivers to earlier versions, changing HDMI cables/Display port cables, decreasing monitors' refresh rates. At first, the reinstallation of drivers partly solved the problem (decreased the stuttering time), but the problem still persists. Also, when i was tinkering with Windows's accent color, i found out that stutters happen when you change colors or when you turn on the option to automatically pick an accent color from background picture. I have some problems with Wattman's setting being reset every time i turn on/restart computer, but can this problem occur from an overall faulty graphics card or is it software/BIOS related?
  12. I understand. Well, a fan of socks and sandals once said, when you go for performance and tiny/portable case, you sacrifice the noise, so i was already prepared for that, and that's why i'm going full Noctua, to at least, remove some portion of it. Thanks for provided help and sorry for taking so long to understand how fans work. By the way, at the time i finished building my first PC, i got ASRock AB350 Fatal1ty, because it was the only decent choice at the time, and even though they have sh!ty VRM and MOSFET heatsinks (also they lied about the quantity of VRMs), they actually put 3 fan headers on their board.
  13. @TVwazhereI've made an illustration of the thing i was talking about before. I think that there won't be any problem with it as long as it doesn't exceed Watt of the controller and fan header, but i'm not sure, as i didn't check everything yet. Unfortunately, the CPU cooler, which i can use inside my case is nh-u9s (125mm maximum height) and you can put only 92mm fans on it. 120mm fan sends cold air that comes from edges of the case, so it's sort of crucial to have. 80mm fan is for taking out the hot air from the back of the case. According to BitFenix, you can install only one 80mm fan either on top or bottom, but i found out that you easily instal two fans without any modding, you just don't have to screw the upper and lower corners of fans, but i think that you can somehow secure them with anti vibration mounts
  14. Thanks for reply. I see. Just to be sure, so i understood everything right, i can control only sets of fans (dual, triple and etc.). As an example, i'm using MSI B450i ITX board, it only has two fan headers (apparently 2 RGB headers are way more important than a third fan header), and i want to control two 80mm fans, two 92mm CPU fans and one 120mm fan separately. To do that, i need to plug something like Noctua na-fc1 controller with three splitter cable, plug on each pin three Y splitter cables, and plug each set of fans on each set of Y splitter cable. Is everything correct or i didn't get it?
  15. Hello everyone, I'm using BitFenix Portal case and i'm looking for a high/good quality fan hub to power 6 fans (maybe 8 if i'd try to getto cool RX 580 with Noctua fans). I've looked around and found lots of different fan hubs, but most of them only give you an option of setting speed on one PWM fan, while others work on the same speed. Is there any portable fan hub, which lets set different fan profiles in BIOS?
  16. BitFenix Prodigy is supposed to be aluminum, but, as i already own BitFenix Portal, which is according to them is also aluminum, i can't say if it's true. Edit: Nevermind, they changed the description to steel and plastic
  17. I've done some digging and i found that apparently Apple implemented the support for using Bluetooth keyboards in BIOS through D-Link DBT-120 Bluetooth adapter. To use HID proxy mode and use your Bluetooth devices in BIOS, you need to flash an adapter, but the problem is that this same adapter works only with iOS. For anyone's interested, here's an information file of Laird's dongle, which has instructions to install and switch modes between HID and HIC: https://connectivity-staging.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/2018-10/Application%20Note%20-%20BT800%20Series%20HID%20Proxy.pdf
  18. Unfortunately, its wire is only for charging the keyboard. I've tried to find some way to make it register through USB, but i guess, the keyboard lacks something on its PCB, so there's no other way of using it, except Bluetooth. I've contacted Laird about their claim and still waiting for their answer.
  19. Hello everyone, i'm new here, so if i created a wrong topic in a wrong section, please tell me. I like to use all PC peripherals without cables, be it controller or mouse+keyboard. The keyboard, which i use every day is Varmilo VB87M and while it feels nice to use it in system, it's a bit annoying when you can't use it in BIOS, so i'm interested in making it work in that part of a computer too. I've done some research here and there, and found that you need a Bluetooth adapter/dongle, which supports HID proxy mode. I've also found that Laird company produces 5.0 and 4.0 Bluetooth adapters and assures you that they both support HID and HIC modes. Now, i have some experience about Bluetooth adapters, but this is the first time i hear about these modes, so if anybody has any experience with Bluetooth adapters and how they work, i'd appreciate any kind of help in this task.