valvoa

21 hours ago, Bearmann said:

valvoa, I like your build. These two cases wouldn't be bad, but the Phanteks is a mid-tower case and may be larger than you want.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/FCs8TW,rnGxFT/

Hi Bearmann, what are you thoughts on the Cooler Master? 

36 minutes ago, VEXICUS said:

Well, the node 202 takes sfx power supplies. You won't be able to fit in a regular size PSU in that case.

Also, Silverstone sg13b is a slightly better case to build in.

Gotcha, the Silverstone looks like a solid choice, thanks for the help!

12 minutes ago, VEXICUS said:

 

 

 

I'll recommend something like this...

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($86.89 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: MSI - B450I GAMING PLUS AC Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard  ($109.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($34.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Intel - 660p Series 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($59.89 @ OutletPC) 
Case: Silverstone - SG13 Mini ITX Tower Case  ($50.50 @ B&H) 
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($41.89 @ OutletPC) 
Total: $384.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-30 13:47 EDT-0400

I like this case, I just would have to spend more to get the mini motherboard correct? I've never build a mini, I could also use fractals node 202 correct? Thanks everyone for the help!

https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-FD-CA-NODE-202-BK-Case/dp/B015MKDOPU

12 minutes ago, Bearmann said:

valvoa, I like your build. These two cases wouldn't be bad, but the Phanteks is a mid-tower case and may be larger than you want.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/FCs8TW,rnGxFT/

I have looked at both these cases and I did find the Phanteks to be a bit large as I'm working with a tight space, the cooler master though is an option. 

Any other cases I should consider? Looking for a basic small form factor case. The fractal node 202 slim looks good but is a bit more than I'd like to spend on this build. 

Hello all, 

Building a budget pc for casual use this time around, how does something like this look? It will be used for basic office use and browsing, any room for improvement? Thanks!

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm assuming that both the 2200g and the 2400g would be fine at 1080p browsing and such? 

6 hours ago, Princess Luna said:

Since every one is posting anyways

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($135.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot - Viper Elite 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($66.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Rosewill - SRM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $372.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-10 10:46 EDT-0400

Yes it is by every possible mean, you can even fit the R5 2400G which I'd go for personally, SMT and graphics good enough to any 4k playback will give this office PC a really long longevity without breaking the budget.

Any difference is quality between the 2015 and the 2017 Corsair PSU's? Thanks. 

3 hours ago, brob said:

 

The B450M HDV R4 only has two memory slots. The B450M Pro4 has four and can thus accommodate a non-replacement memory upgrade. The B450M Pro4 also has a second x16 PCIe slot and a USB-C connector.

 

The cpu provides the gpu, not the motherboard. AM4 motherboards only provide monitor connections. Both motherboards have DVI-D, HDMI, and D-Sub connectors.

Thanks for the breakdown, I greatly appreciate it. 

2 hours ago, Princess Luna said:

Since every one is posting anyways

 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($135.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Patriot - Viper Elite 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory  ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($66.89 @ OutletPC)
Case: Rosewill - SRM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair - CXM (2015) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  ($42.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $372.73
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-10 10:46 EDT-0400

Yes it is by every possible mean, you can even fit the R5 2400G which I'd go for personally, SMT and graphics good enough to any 4k playback will give this office PC a really long longevity without breaking the budget.

Any big difference in the ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard vs the ASRock - B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard? Both on-board graphics should be fine for office use correct?

Perhaps I should have posted the 400 dollar build recommended, is it worth upgrading to the Ryzen 3 2200G vs the Athlon 200GE? Thanks. 

400 dollar

10 minutes ago, star_pilot475 said:

Or this...more ram because I’ve found even in just office tasks it can be helpful. Plus this is really cheap too. There’s no real reason to go with a flashy tempered glass side panel case like the H500 with an office pc that'll probably sit under a desk. 

Definitely don't need the h500, looking for just a decent budget office case honestly. Thanks!

21 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

Overkill PSU, overkill motherboard, overkill ram, this is all for just web browsing and word processing? Try this instead:

 

It is yes, nothing crazy. Just looking for it to be stable and relatively fast. Thank you!

Hello all, 

I just got done building a new gaming rig and it came out great, and for the most part was relatively easy to pick out parts for thanks to all of you. Now I have a new mission to build the best budget office pc I can that's stable. It will be used mainly for just browsing really, nothing crazy. I'm assuming this would be around the 400-500 dollar range? 

I've looked at the 300-500 dollar builds on this forum and wondering should I make any updates? This budget does not include any peripherals as I have all of those. I also found this build from Paul's hardware, thoughts on this build? Thanks for all the help!

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/paulshardware/saved/ndkf99

Edit: This will not be for gaming so maybe one of the 400 dollar builds would be better suited from this site. 

Hello, 

After using dual IPS Ultrasharps over the past 5 years I decided to upgrade to a UW AW3418dw. The panel is quite beautiful although the glow is much worse in comparison to my 24in monitors. The glow is the worse in the lower left hand corner but as expected it's on all 4 sides. Some glow I can tolerate but in this instance the lower left hand corner is questionable. Any thoughts to this? Is this pretty typical for this monitor or should I try again? Thanks!

https://imgur.com/a/EeAB8QB

I have a little slack, I could always strip the wire a bit more. Are these typically crimped on? If so I'm assuming I need a special tool and it might be worth just buying a new one but I have no idea where. I did find sleeved extensions but no sleeved full front panel wires.

Hello,

Recently the connector piece on my reset cable for the front panel broke off, it must be in the housing for a motherboard I just RMA'd. Would it be easier to crimp a reset connector back on the wire or just buy a new wire? If so, where can I get just the end connectors? Looks like Newegg carries the wires but the ones in my case were sleeved, any idea or where to get these if needed? Thanks.

Turns out my new Z390 Aorus Pro Wifi could potentially have coil whine in the cpu vram. I've read that some have had success disabling C-States in the bios to help eliminate the coil whine. My question is what exactly does disabling C-States do, and will there be any performance loss if I do disable it? Or perhaps I just rma the board and hope to get one without the whine, thanks! 

I've read that disabling C-States in the bios might help with coil whine on the motherboard. Question is what does disabling C-States actually do and will there be a performance loss if it is disabled. Maybe I can try this before deciding what to do with the board? 

17 minutes ago, Spotty said:

From what you've described it sounds like you might be experiencing coil whine from the inductors in the CPU VRM. See picture below to see where the inductors are located on your motherboard.
Coil whine won't hurt anything, but the noise can be annoying. If it's annoying you then your best bet would be to get in contact with Gigabyte customer support and ask for a replacement motherboard.

  

  Hide contents

 

Ah ok, so most likely it's this over the Noctua. Does the coil whine on inductors lessen in time or can it get worse? Thanks for the help. 

Yes, the plastic piece is quite large and stayed behind in the box when I removed the cooler. 

2 minutes ago, NinJake said:

Does it sound like it's coming from the fan on your nh-d15?

I thought there could be a chance, unplugged all fans from the Noctua as well to test, still buzzing. It sounds like it's coming from either the bottom of the Noctua or around the cpu area.  

Hello all, 

I've just recently put together a new build and I'm experiencing some a buzzing sound directly around the CPU area. Reading about coil whine I've tried removing my GPU, unplugging all fans and even checking if the sound was coming from the m.2 ssd that's in the same area. It sounds like a cd writing or a mechanical hd almost, just more of a buzz that goes on and off constantly directly where the cpu is.

It's actually more annoying in windows as it goes on and off as under full load it's more of a constant buzz. I refused to believe it was coming from the cpu but with the side panel removed and almost everything unplugged I don't know what else it could be. 

What could it possibly be? It can't be the CPU correct? Could it be my NH-D15 or even my motherboard? This build is on my desk and maybe I just notice it more but I either want to do something about the buzz or move my pc to another location. Any ideas and/or has this happened to you? I appreciate the help, thank you. 

41 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

The fried GPUs are probably from people using messed up extensions or they are blaming their PSU killing shit on the extensions. Cablemod is safe, just make sure you get cables that fit your PSU by selecting the right one before you order 

Are extensions safe as well or should I only be considering full cables? Thanks

1 minute ago, Sychic said:

You shouldn't need it if you've got a good PSU like the one you have. It's probably just for some very specific cheap ass PSUs

My bad, I don't actually need the sleeved cables I just would like it to look a little cleaner then the stock cables. Corsair GPU cables especially are super bulky and don't look the greatest, but I'm concerned about the stability of 3rd party cables.