fabio73

Maybe I'll just pick up both and have to build another budget PC with the 1080 LOL! Thank you for the feedback!

I already talked the gentleman down from $150 to $120. I almost did ask for $100, but didn't want to lowball the guy. I felt $120 was more reasonable. I also didn't think the other gentleman with the 1070 for sale would go as low as $80; he originally wanted $100. I think for $80, the 1070 is hard to pass up like you said.

The gentleman said he bought it back in 2017 and only used it for gaming; no mining. So we're probably OK I would assume.

The 1070 is EVGA SC edition, and the 1080 is an ASUS ROG Strix.

So I found two sellers on FB Marketplace, that are willing to sell a 1070 for $80 and a 1080 for $120. It's going into a $300 budget system with an i5-8400, and I want to know what everyone thought was the better deal? Appreciate the feedback! In case you want to see how close in performance they are to each other: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html

So I'm looking for a new set of bluetooth over ear headphones primarily for Twitch streams, YouTube videos and podcasts, and occasionally music. As the title says, I'm currently considering the Sennheiser Momentum 4 and the Sony WH-1000XM5; leaning towards the Momentum 4. Would love to hear people's experience with either of these headphones, or recommendations for other headphones that might be in a slightly higher price range if the quality is a big step up for not a lot more cost; but I have the flexibility to spend more. Appreciate the feedback!

Budget (including currency): No budget at this moment, but let's say we want to build something that's the best bang for the buck. My buddy and I are really looking for a general idea of what it's going to cost for an immersive experience, and save up for around that; adding more money to that budget as we feel needs it. Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Driving/racing simulator games. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): We would be building everything from scratch... PC: I've been building PCs for several years, so I just need to understand how much OOMPH from a CPU, GPU, and RAM perspective is needed for a smooth simulator experience. Monitors: Let's say we want to do 3 monitors; though happy to hear feedback regarding going with a single monitor setup. We would want IPS panels that could display 2K+ and 60Hz+; remember, we're just trying to understand best bang for the buck. Driving simulator hardware: We have no idea what brands to choose from that offer great mid range options, so any recommendations for best bang for the buck seat, wheel, shift, peddles, chaise, or anything else we may have missed would be fantastic. Also, info on what we should be looking for in terms of hardware will help when making final decisions; my buddy is into cars and building hot rods, so details that offer an authentic experience is a plus. Thank you in advance for all your help!

That's a pretty big oversight on ASUS's part. Knowing that would have saved me a whole lot of trouble. Thank YOU for the insight, Emi, and I'm happy you were able to get your RIG up and running! Greetings from California!

Something I forgot to mention, and it's actually a rather important detail, is that I originally purchased the 1700X and decided to purchase the 2700X when it came out because I haven't been able to assemble my RIG up until now, so I figured, might as well buy the new one. So I swapped out the 2700X with the 1700X on top of connecting a drive, and that's how I was able to get into BIOS and do the update. Then I swapped the 2700X back and was able to boot into the BIOS successfully with the 2700X. I'm assuming this is not an option for you so here's what I would recommend. Remove your Zen+ CPU from the socket and attempt the BIOS flashback again. The BIOS flashback feature is designed to work without a CPU in the socket, and having the Zen+ CPU connected might be interfering with the BIOS flashback functionality because it doesn't recognize the CPU as supported. It's possible that the BIOS flashback functionality does a CPU check before it starts the update, and if the connected CPU isn't supported, it fails. Once your Zen+ CPU has been removed from the socket, insert your USB with the C6H.CAP BIOS file in the root directory into the bottom most USB 2.0 port, then press and hold the BIOS flashback button until it starts flashing. The button should continue to flash while the BIOS is updating, then turn off completely once it has completed; approximately 5 to 10 minutes. If the BIOS flashback button flashes 3 times then remains lit, the update failed. I know you probably know this already but I figured I'd explain how to do it for someone who doesn't know how. I REALLY REALLY hope that works for you emi100! I know how frustrating it is to have to stop in the middle of a build to troubleshoot an issue, then have to wait even longer because you weren't able to find an answer online, and now you're waiting for someone to help you directly via a forum post.

So it turns out the USB BIOS flashback was actually failing, so I didn't really update the BIOS after all. However, I figured out the issue was I needed to have an M.2 or SATA drive connected. When I did that, the board posted then booted into the BIOS. Thank you for all the help!

I just completed the BIOS update using the flashback feature and I'm still seeing the same Q-Code :-(.

I was building my new gaming/streaming PC this evening, and when I tried to boot up the RIG to see if it posts, I got a QLED DRAM (yellow) error with the Q-Code C0. I tried looking up what the C0 Q-Code meant in the motherboard manual and online, but couldn't find an answer. So does anyone know what the Q-Code C0 means and more importantly, what I need to do in order to resolve the issue of my motherboard not booting into the BIOS? RAM was occupying DIMM A2 and B2. Troubleshooting, I moved RAM the stick from A2 to B2 and vice versa, inserted both RAM sticks in A2 by themselves, cleared CMOS. Picture of the Q-Code and QLED DRAM attached below. RAM => G.Skill TridentZ RGB 32 GB (F4-3200C14D-32GTZR) Motherboard => ASUS Crosshair VI Hero Wi-Fi (X370) CPU => Zen+ 2700K

#ROGRigReboot Here's my RIG I built back in March 2008! It was the first, and only, one I ever built for myself, and I bought it with my first paycheck from my first job right out of college.

As the title says, I'm trying to decide between a single Acer Predator x34 or dual Acer Predator XB271HUs. I plan to build a new rig soon which I'll be using for gaming, live streaming on twitch, and light content creation using Photoshop and Audacity, and I wanted to know which monitor setup will best fit those needs based your personal experience with either monitor setup. I initially planned on having the dual XB271HU setup, but now I'm leaning more towards the single x34. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!

I love that this reflects to project the image as apposed to just projecting it. Solves the problem of people blocking the image by walking in front of it.