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About f2bacon

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    New York
  • Biography
    Military grade autism


  • CPU
    ryzen 5 1600
  • Motherboard
    asrock b450m pro4
  • RAM
    32gb ddr4 2400
  • GPU
    gigabyte gtx 1060 3gb
  • Case
    nzxt h440
  • Storage
    a handful of ssds
  • PSU
    evga 430
  • Display(s)
    samsung chg90
  • Cooling
    nzxt kraken x52
  • Keyboard
    velocifire tkl02
  • Mouse
    logitech marathon
  • Sound
    logitech 2.1
  • Operating System
    windows 10
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. it should just be a matter of rotating while pulling away
  2. I wanna try and long-story-short but it's a bit of a long story no matter how I tell it, so here goes nothing. I've done a couple builds for friends, all very similar to my own build (rx580, asrock b450, ryzen 5 1600, and so on) but my friend wanted to do a couple steps up with a more modern build (sapphire rx5700xt, asus x570, ryzen 5 3600x, evga 700w g3 psu, 16gb 3000mhz corsair lpx raim, 500gb 970evo nvme ssd) To start it off, it wouldn't power correctly. The motherboard would light up for a second when the power button is pushed, but would immediately turn off. I took it apart for him and put it back together and even at best, the motherboard would stay lit up but wouldn't output display (gpu or hdmie on the mobo). I took a wild guess and said maybe a faulty power supply. So we ran to bestbuy and price matched a corsair 600w. Now the mobo clearly lights up, but still won't display on any monitor, from any port. I figured it was that the mobo needed updating so I threw in my old ryzen 5 1600, no luck. I start going for broke and say yaknow what lemme pick up an asrock b450 just because I know it's worked every time. Turns out everything works fine. It boots like a champ, we even carried over his old hdd so he didn't need to install windows after about 7 hours of troubleshooting. He returns the old psu and mobo and ended up saving over $200. He was great for a while and then started having black screens and blue screens. He'd be fine for a couple hours and then it would go down. He said he couldn't pinpoint what's causing it. At this point I assumed all the hardware is good, and it might be his old windows install and some driver issues or something. I figure we should do a fresh windows install on the nvme regardless, so we do that. The windows install is great, works fast, he loves it. But the blue screens and black screens don't stop. I'm now completely lost. I almost wanna try swapping out the 5700xt for a rx580 just cause every time I stray from the build I know well I get punished. All motherboards were on the most recent bios. I looked over the forum to check if this was a known issue but nothing popped out. Am I missing something? Is this an easy solution? Thanks for absolutely any help!!!
  3. I've tried that, it seems like windows only lets you troubleshoot devices that it can see. (Microphone realtek high def isn't it, that's when I plug a wired mic into the front panel connectors)
  4. I'll try my best to long story short here. I got a used Blue Yeti from ebay. Bad condition, bent cable. Wouldn't work. A lot of "device descriptor request failed", and even when I solved that, no luck. I returned that and got one in store. Similar issues, it wouldn't show up in device manager or sound inputs or anything. I read that these prefer usb2 to usb3 so I was plugging into random slots and it ended up working through a usb hub. I used it for a day and was super happy with it. I went to clean up some cable work and route the cables out of the way, and now I'm back to square one. The damn thing lights up when I plug it in, but the computer doesn't acknowledge it in any way. No device manager or anything. I found out my motherboard and case are only usb3 connections. So I tried going inside and plugging the yeti into my nzxt usb hub, no luck. I plugged it into another computer and had the exact same issue. Then I realized when it worked for a sec, it was on the usb3 hub, so it's not even a usb 3 or 2 issue. I tried unplugged all other usb devices and having the cable straight into the motherboard. I'm really losing my mind here because I don't understand how it worked fine for a full day before not working again. I'm wondering if anything was even wrong with the one I got from ebay. I'm sorry this goes on for so long but considering how popular this mic is, and how I spent the last 3/4 hours searching the internet for answers in terms of sound drivers and shit like that, I'm giving up. If anyone has any info on how to figure something like this out please help. I've just been plugging and unplugging for the past 20 minutes.
  5. it sounds like you need the intel bracket. use part B from this image
  6. Then you could use that, that should come included with your cooler since I'm pretty sure that's a more regular setup
  7. but what's in an AIO besides 1/4th coolant, 3/4 distilled water, and a little bit of biocide? I understand I'm opening up a can of worms, and all the guys on youtube make it looks easy because they don't follow up. But wouldn't it be fairly easy to just repeat their steps, using correct liquid?
  8. So a friend of mine really wants his Cooler Master ML240L to have clear tubes. He wants a custom loop but would never be able to maintain it. I've seen plenty of videos on youtube of people having no issues doing it, but I just don't understand how that's possible. Almost all of them use food coloring (which I thought was a big no-no) and none of them do a follow-up to show how it's working further down the line. The biggest comfort I had was that we'd be able to just re-use the liquid we already have, so no need to mess with different additives or ratios. But it clicked in my mind that the easiest way to make sure there's no air is the finish the loop in a bucket of the liquid. But if there's only as much liquid as was originally in the cooler, wouldn't that be impossible? As it gets close to being full, there'd be little to no liquid left, definitely not enough to do underwater. So I explained we'd have to dump the liquid, get distilled water, additives, and proper dye (if he wants to dye it) and he's still interested. It was only a $50 cooler so it's not a big deal to him if we end up screwing up and having to go out and buy something else. Another reason I'm interested is because if this ends up being a somewhat easy task, I would definitely do the same thing for my nzxt kraken x52. Does anyone have experience with anything like this? I assume it's pretty straightforward in terms of get a clear tubing that's the same inner and outer dimensions, cut it to size as the old tubes, then finish the loop underwater and good to go. Anyone wanna steer me in the right direction with some advice? Something more than the guys at microcenter reminding us that AIOs are made specifically not to be taken apart. I understand that there's anti-corrosive additives so that it never has to be serviced. The goal is to recreate AIO liquid so that we can change the tubes. I strongly appreciate any help!
  9. I was able to get it up to 3125 and that's good enough for me. I guess if it isn't working at recommended try bringing it down 1 notch?
  10. Does clearing the cmos/bios not delete the default user profiles? I can't figure out how to get this damn thing to read correctly. I almost wanna think it's a hardware issue or hardware incompatibility. Could that be a thing? I was able to run 2 sticks of 8gb at the advertised speed (2x8gb 3000mhz, but if i tried all 4 sticks to get it to 32gb it doesn't let me) I was super careful to check compatibility between components, did i miss something?
  11. I can't get my cmos / bios reset? I pulled the battery for 5 minutes and bridged the little cmos guy with a paper clip. I boot back into bios and it's right where I left off. Am I missing something??
  12. Is there a way I could find the suggested xmp settings for CMK32GX4M2B3200C16? For some reason the xmp profile 1 seems to be what I saved. Even after I cleared the CMOS Is there any way to clear xmp?
  13. Pulling the cmos battery for 10 seconds did nothing. Putting the CPU to stock did nothing. If I try and run at 3200 it defaults back to 2133. I'm running at 3125 but now rarely I'm seeing program crashes and more recently a windows crash.
  14. So I picked up a pair of Corsair sticks. CMK32GX4M2B3200C16. Won't run at 3200. If I set xmp for 3200 it sets to 2133. I got it to boot at 3125.88mhz. Am I not understanding something? Should I be looking up timing specifics or something? I thought I could overclock my ram to be a hair faster but I can't get anything to run at advertised speeds
  15. Could just be bad ram. I'm gonna pick up a new pair. Cpu is overclocked to 3.9ghz. No changes on ram besides changing xmp. Actually I think I may have manually input the timings that it says on the sticks when I got them