Crowcore

By "changing uefi settings" do you mean clicking "load UEFI defaults"? (This has been done.) The CSM says "to enable, please install an external graphics card". I can't find "secure boot".

Greetings, I just sold my RX 7600 and can't boot into my OS without graphics card now. My NZXT N7 Z790 motherboard has the latest BIOS (7.01). I reset it (the display wouldn't recognize the output prior to that. Was using DP with the GPU, now HDMI). My CPU is an Intel i5-13600K. I am brought straight into the UEFI each time. My SSD (Kingston KC3000) shows up there. But the boot section is empty. I'm attaching pictures of sub-menus I think might be relevant. I'd be grateful for any ideas. (My plan is to get an RX 7800 XT at the end of the month.)

Hi, I'm planning to buy Klipsch The Fives 2.0 bookshelf powered speakers for music playback in the basement. I do have an Asus Essence STX II internal sound card in my main/gaming desktop, to which my Edifier S550 Encore 5.1 speakers are connected. But my desk is in another room. So I'm wondering if I should take the sound card out to use with the Klipsch speakers (my motherboard can handle 5.1 on its own), or if The Fives' built-in DAC would be just as good. Any advice or information is welcome. Thanks!

Greetings, The 13,3" MacBook Pro (i5 dual core 2,9-3,3 GHz with Intel Iris Graphics 550) of a friend gets too hot while gaming (Sims 4 through Origin). So I'm looking to install a program with which I can limit the max. framerate. I don't have any knowledge with that OS. Origin, the game and the OS settings app don't seem to have such a setting. I've searched through search engines and in the app store with no results. Does such a software exist? Is Aferburner compatible? Maybe a kind of Intel driver Interface? Thank you in advance for any help.

Sounds like a CPU or RAM bottleneck. What processor do you have & how much RAM?

Do you really need that kind of CPU power? What do you intend on doing besides gaming? It's multiple times the performance of your current one. The fastest 8 core CPU only to run games seems like a waste. I don't believe we will have a new Nvidia GPU gen before Q2. And with Nvidia at launch you rarely get more performance for the same money anyway. I wouldn't wait. For the SSD, it depends for crucial RAID 0 is for you. It you work on very critical projects and never back-up, then I guess it makes sense... If you are a pretty normal user, than no, go for just one drive.

It depends on the price difference. If it happens to be only 20 USD, I'd say go for the Ti - it's at 1080p on average 5% more powerful. If it's 40, don't, the value of the Super would be superior.

I know but maybe Sapphire uses specific parts on their cards that don't play nice with my PSU, and components/PCB-configurations used by other manufacturers have a higher chance of being different than Sapphire's from one 5700 XT model to another.

Greetings, So I got the Sapphire 5700 XT Pulse. When gaming, half of the time, I could hear various tones of coil whine over the GPU fan noise (rest of the system is silent), which is very unpleasant/irritating to me. I sent it back, and now I'm wondering if going with another brand instead of another same-GPU-based product from Sapphire (the Nitro) would increases the odds of this not happening again. I want a very quiet card, so besides the Nitro the 2 other candidates would be the Powercolor Red Devil & Asus Strix - whichever one is cheaper at the time of purchase. Is the Sapphire Nitro just as good as an option with no more coil whine risk with my configuration that the others? My specs: CPU Intel i7 6700K (@ stock) Motherboard Asrock Z170M Extreme4 (micro-ATX) RAM Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (@ stock) GPU Storage OCZ Vector 180 960GB PSU Cooler Master V550 (80+ Gold) Display(s) Samsung C34J791W (3440x1440, 100 Hz, 1500R) Sound Asus Essence STX II Operating System Windows 10 Pro - 64 bit

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried (method 1) but to no avail

Yes; 3.20, and the latest Radeon drivers.

If only the semi-passive fan wasn't constantly turning on and off when there isn't a heavy load... and it makes a very annoying noise when doing so. I'm pretty sure this would solve the issue, but I would like to avoid that because I would have to spend 2h setting everything up again

Greetings, I have the 2400G, and changed my motherboard from the Asrock AB350 Gaming-ITX to the Asrock B450 Gaming-ITX without an OS (Windows 10 64 bits) re-install, considering how almost identical these MBs are. I installed the drivers of the new MB, and un- (+DDU) and re-installed the Radeon driver However, since this hardware change, the screen doesn't detect a signal and so turns off after benchmark sequences or after leaving any game. Basically, as soon as the screen doesn't receive a signal for a second. When I press the monitor's power button, it then instantly shows what it is supposed to (benchmark score or desktop), as if nothing occurred. It would be a hassle to reinstall the OS, given how much optimization work I did to make it lighter. Does someone have an idea abt what I could try / what is causing this? Display: LG 34UC88 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x 8GB 3200 MHz PSU: Chieftec CSN-550C SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB M.2

Yes, it's Original Sin. Thank you We are tying to upgrade the OS to 18.04 but are having some difficulties. Will keep you posted.

Greetings, A friend of mine would like to play the game Divinity on Ubuntu. Unfortunately I'm not familiar at all with that OS. The min. requirements according to the game is OpenGL4. When she looks at her system it says "OpenGL version 3.0 Mesa 18.0.0-rc4". She checked and believes 18.0.0 to be the lastest version (well this was 1,5 months ago). She doesn't have a dedicated GPU but has en Intel Haswell CPU. I checked and in theory the CPU supports OpenGL4.3. Sure the gaming performance might be bad, but it should at least launch, right? So it should be a driver/software issue, maybe despite her efforts, something is not up to date? We would be grateful for any tips.

... which we have known for about 6 months, right? I feel like this just confirms that there might not be a delay to Q3.

It was the clock speeds. Stayed at 520 MHz even during gaming... I just reset things and it worked.

Nope, that wasn't it...

Maybe it's a coincidence, but uninstalling the two latest Windows updates (from 11. January) and a reboot fixed it... for now. A reboot later and things are still looking good. So I disabled the Windows Update in the list of services

That's my last resort potential solution of course

Hi, I'm having an issue where 75% of the performance of my GPU is just gone... Instead of getting 40 FPS in games, I now get 7-10. This started one month ago. Rebooting solved it. To diagnose smth with my screen (unrelated), I changed my GPU (290 -> 380), and it worked well for a day (normal performance), but now for 2 days I'm always getting the horrible performance. No amount of reboot helps. Info: It doesn't matter if the games are from Steam or Uplay In Afterburner, GPU utilization is 100%, and temps as well as fan speed size like if the full performance was being used No personal OC nor undervolting was applied. Case is well ventilated (two front 140mm fans, one rear) In task manager performance tab, nothing suspicious is going on with CPU, RAM, SSD: none of them are at 100%. Far from it. My OS version should be up to date All my components are listed on my profile I tried: Replacing my Powercolor R9 290 with a R9 380 Completely uninstalling the driver, trying out the latest non WHQL driver (17.1.1), uninstalling, reusing the the latest stable driver (16.12.2) Rebooting of course Disabling all "user generated" software running in the background (keyboard RGB software, VPN, music player, antivirus). Any ideas would be appreciated.

I have been looking forward for this case for 13 months! They sure took their sweet time developing it... I think the GPU is too weak for 2560x1080 and the SSD is too small and entry level for my taste. WIth today's prices, a 500 GB mid-range SSD (2.5") (Crucial MX300should be a good upgrade option, to have storage for all your games, whose loading times will improve significantly. On the topic on GPU price drops: Stop waiting Both GPUs have been out for over a month, and unlike GTX 1070 1080, competition is present in this performance segment. So no drops are to be expected in my opinion, especially now with lower VRAM versions arriving on the shelves. I prefer Radeon cards, but the RX 480 has GTX 970 / R9 290 / 780 Ti level performance, which is just not future proof at all for modern games on ultra settings at your resolution. It's barely enough for today. So looking at the current market structure, the GTX 1060 8GB would be the perfect card for you. You'll get abt 17 Fps more on average, compared to the 280X. I'm getting this case on Friday, so expect a post this week-end if everything goes according to plan!

No one ?

Hey, I recently built a system for a friend with mostly parts I had laying around, and shipped it to him. Unfortunately, it is plagued by a boot-loop issue of 3 seconds that somehow didn't happen here the 2 days prior to the shipment (it did on occasion before). There is nothing on the screen when that happens, but the fans do start to spin. The only way out of this is to put the MB’s jumper in the « Clear CMOS » position, then put the bridge-thingy back to the normal position, and turn on the machine. The computer starts normally. Restarting it though the OS doesn’t lead to this problem. Going into sleep and then waking up again, is also fine. Shutting it down and turning it on, still fine. But turning it on after having turn off the electrical strip or switched of the PC PSU, it won’t turn on again without the infinite boot-loop. The debug LED doesn’t display anything during the process and the UEFI is up to date. Any ideas would be appreciated. Specifications CPU: Intel i3 4370 (3.8 GHz) MB: Asrock Z87M OC Formula (micro-ATX) RAM: Curcial Ballistix Tactical 4x4GB (low-profile) GPU: [On board] SSD: Sandisk X400 256GB PSU: Cooler Master V450SM (80+ Gold) Case: Silverstone SG12 (mini-tower) HSF: Thermalright AXP-200 Muscle (slim 140mm fan) What we tried: - Setting UEFI to default - SSD & MB battery change - Pulling the physical switch to use the second UEFI - Using just one stick of RAM - Using another stick of RAM on other DIMM slots

A decent air cooler, that would get the job done and not cost too much. Like the Hyper T4. Ok, if it's for the looks than sure, go with the red LED fans