Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Shisimona

Member
  • Content Count

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Shisimona

  1. Well, I seemed to have fixed it. After it did the freakish weird BIOS flash, my CPU voltage was auto set to 1.0 volts. I set it back to 1.25 volts and my CPU at 4GHz. I don't know what happened but it was not normal at all. With Zen 3 just around the corner, i'll be upgrading anyways. Just need this to chug away til that happens lol.
  2. Anything over 4GHz, it's gonna need a lot of voltage. I have gotten my 2600x stable at 4.4GHz but at almost 1.5 volts. But I was creeping up to 80 degrees. Wasn't liking that. So I keep at 4GHz at 1.25 volts and my temps are 50-52 degrees. That's from running Cinebench R20 and OCCT back to back. My R5 2600x goes to 3.7GHz for a split sec but then stays around 4GHz at load and idle. But here's a screen of mine at 4GHz all cores. It also boosts to 4.6GHz on all core. This was after I did my R20 and OCCT back to back.
  3. I never got a disk with my motherboard. But I some how managed to flash my BIOS to the version 5601 which is the latest. But I didn't do it through the BIOS. I hopped on my laptop to see if there is a BIOS update. There is version 5601. So I downloaded it and put the file on my USB stick. I figured why not try this. Who knows it might work. Plugged the USB stick into my PC and started it up. And within 2 secs it asked me if I wanted to flash my BIOS. I wasn't in the BIOS for this command to prompt. I pressed Y to flash. It actually flashed this time. PC restarted. Auto booted into the BIOS and it was like nothing happened. Said Version 5601 at the top. Okay, good. Booted into Windows. But now, after 5 mins of being in Windows, I loose power to all USB slots, video goes black and is non responsive. My computer didn't restart. Did this 3 times in a row. I'm starting to think my motherboard is possibly dying or something else is wrong.
  4. Powered down the system. Unplugged from wall. Pressed power button few times. Removed battery for about 10-15 mins. Jumped the CMOS jumper. The same way I've been clearing the CMOS for roughly 20 years now. As I said, I just never seen anything like this before after clearing CMOS. This pic was taken after the CMOS was cleared. Ryzen 2600x ASUS Prime Pro X470 G.Skill Trident Neo 2x16GB 3200MHz 14CL B-Die EVGA RTX 2070 XC Black Edition Windows 10 3 Noctua 140mm PPC Industrial 3000 RPM NH-D15 Seasonic Focus Plus 850watts Gold I never had luck flashing this BIOS. It worked once when I flashed to Version 5007 and since them, every BIOS flash has failed. It would get half way through and would auto restart. I even tried talked with ASUS about it and they said they couldn't do anything to help and I was on my own. Last time I tried to flash the BIOS was maybe 4 months ago.
  5. So I restarted my PC, and when it tried to load Windows it gave me a 0xc0000221 error code, which is apparently a corrupted driver or system DLL. Well, I popped in my Windows 10 USB to do a system repair and go to the BIOS so it will boot from USB, I got this. I even cleared CMOS and it still came up like this. But what's even more messed up, my overclock is still there, not stock like it should have been. And what's even more weird is, in the pic it shows M.2_1:N/A but on the side it shows Samsung SSD 970 Evo Plus 500GB. It is possible my BIOS and/or motherboard are corrupted? I never seen anything like this before. Shortcuts keys and mouse doesn't work. I have to manually turn off my computer to get out of the BIOS.
  6. If you have read, no where did I say I'll be using it for water cooling. I want something so I don't have to use anything Corsair. All I talk about is air cooling.
  7. Yeah, above 4GHz, it starts getting a little power hungry. I did get it to 4.4GHz but my voltage was near 1.5v. A little much. I did run OCCT and Cinebench R20 for 15 mins each. Nothing crashed. I know not enough time. Temps were creeping up to 80 degrees. Wasn't comfortable with that.
  8. I did a couple restarts, and it seems to be reading proper now. On OCCT, Core Temp, HWMonitor and HWInfo64 *just installed it*. My idle temps are back to what they were before. Yeah, everyone likes my load temps. When I use both fans on my D15, I get about max temps of 47-48. I've actually had people say they don't believe me that I have temps like that for an air cooler. I've actually had my boost speed hit 7GHz on all cores once. Not sure if it was error or what. I haven't had any issues with it at all.
  9. So I got my new case in today. Moved everything over. But for some reason, my Idle temp stays at 40 degrees. Doesn't go any lower then that. Before I switched, it would be at around 25-27 on idle. But when I did 15 mins of Cinebench R20, temps stayed around 50-52 load. Then I went to OCCT within 10 secs and same thing after 15 mins. Load temps are the same. Nothing changed there. I don't know if my idle temps are reading proper. As you can see OCCT lowest said 28 but in HWMonitor is says 50. HWMonitor was running when I was running both Cinebench R20 and OCCT. I went from a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M *Mid Tower* to the Phanteks 719. CPU cooler is a NH-D15 running a single fan.
  10. I don't have the Grid, It's from other people who were having issues. Lots were saying mainly not having enough power to supply the fans. There was one guys who showed a pic of where the fan header melted.
  11. I wasn't expecting to have a bunch of user experience with it, but doesn't hurt to ask. The Grid won't work proper with my fans. I have the Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC 140mm 3000 RPM and NF-F12 industrialPPC 120mm 3000 RPM, and there have been users who have the Grid and those fans and have had nothing but issues. I know the Commander Pro would have no issues power powering these fans but i'm unable to find the proper amps and watts of each fan header as it's different from different sources. Some places say it's 1 amp per channel, same say 0.8 amp per channel. One place said it was 0.3 amp per channel. I know this EK Loop Connect is 120watts/10amps total between all 6 fan headers. So that gives them 20watts/1.6amps per fan header. If i'm correct the NF-A14 is 6.6watts/0.55 amps max? So, if those are the specs on the EK LoCo *I like this name for it lol*, it should be able to power 2 NF-A14 at full speed without issues on one fan header. I'm not saying i'm gonna do that but I do believe it has the capability to do so.
  12. I was wondering if anyone here has used the EK Loop Connect? It looks like it can do what the Commander Pro can do. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-connect Looks like a great alternative to the Commander Pro.
  13. If they have it and is in your price range, try for the Trident Z Neo 3200MHz CL14. F4-3200C14D-32GTZN. I just ordered this kit myself. After looking around, a lot of people say 3200MHz CL14 is the sweet spot Ryzen.
  14. I'm in Canada. I have no budget. Not including my NH-D15 fans, 6 fans for now. For some reason, not sure if it's the fans or motherboard but they don't seem to like each other. They run but at times the fans ramp up to full for no reason.
  15. I'm looking for a fan controller. I want something where I can control each fan individual, like the Corsair Commander Pro. But I rather not buy the Commander Pro if I can help it. Not due to price but due to an issue I had with them when I tired to RMA my H100i V2 back in 2016 or 2017. Since then, I have had zero respect for them. I will be using Noctua Industrial PPC fans.
  16. Unfortunately, I voided my warranty on them. They have been used in 3-4 different systems and have abused them. I already have money put away for a new Ryzen 4000 cpu and motherboard. I already looked on Amazon for the part number and the seller wants $510 for the kit. And I don't get anything off Amazon, unless it's sold and shipped by Amazon. While I can get it for $380 shipped from Newegg. I live in Canada.
  17. One of my memory sticks bit the dust this morning. So i'm looking at getting a new kit. I currently have 2x8GB G.Skill Ripjaws V, Asus Prime X-470 Pro and Ryzen 5 2600X. Since i'm buying a new kit, Since i'm getting a new kit, i'm also thinking of going with 32GB. As I do plan on doing more with my PC than just gaming in the up coming months. So my issue is, I used that G.Skill memory configuration and saw this kit F4-3200C14D-16GTZN Trident Neo 2x8GB 16GB kit. But I want to get the F4-3200C14D-32GTZN which is the same kit but in 32GB. But the 32GB kit wasn't in the memory configuration. My concern is, will I have issues with the 32GB kit with my current setup? I'm also planning on upgrading once Ryzen 4000 hits. I'm also open to suggestions but no Corsair. I would like to get a 3200 CL14 kit.
  18. I highest I was able to get my 2600x, was 4.3GHz @ 1.44 volts or somewhere around there for it to be stable. Way to high for my liking. Even 4.2GHz it needed lots of voltage. So I keep mine at 4GHz at 1.24 volts. Anything above 4GHz, I'm pretty sure they need alot of voltage. This was on a Asus Prime Pro X470.
  19. Lately, i've been humming and odding about getting a new case. I currently have a Phanteks Enthoo Pro M mid tower case. https://www.newegg.ca/brushed-black-phanteks-enthoo-pro-m-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811854042 I have a Noctua D15 cooler and it just makes the case look small. Don't mind the bit of mess. It's an older picture and at the time I was using it to diagnose hard drives and whatnot. I now have a separate PC for that. I originally was going to get the Phanteks Enthoo Pro II when it came out but i'm not sure on the release date. I have 3 cases it was looking at. I will not be water cooling. I rather have a fan die, than a pump. I've had a AIO Corsair pump die on me. And I won't get into it. I just don't buy Corsair products after that. Phanteks Enthoo 719 https://www.newegg.ca/satin-black-phanteks-enthoo-luxe-2-full-tower/p/N82E16811854088 Phanteks Eclipse P600S https://www.newegg.ca/black-phanteks-eclipse-p600s-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811854083?Description=P600S&cm_re=P600S-_-11-854-083-_-Product Fractal Design Meshify S2 https://www.newegg.ca/black-fractal-design-meshify-s2-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352103 Only issue with the S2 is, it might not be wide enough for the D15, as my Enthoo Pro M the window just barely clears it and it is just a tad wider at 9.25" as oppose to 9.17" of the S2. I'm not worried about price. But I also don't wanna spend $500. Thats for my new motherboard.
  20. I'm looking for a Bluetooth USB Adapter for my Xbox One Controller. I currently use it on my laptop which has built-in Bluetooth but unfortunately my gaming PC doesn't. So i'm not sure if any bluetooth usb adopter will work.
  21. I clear CMOS before I update BIOS. This way I know everything is back to default. Been doing it this way for years and it always worked.
  22. I currently have version 5007 on my ASUS Prime X470 Pro. I'm trying to update the BIOS to version 5406, but when I try to flash, it gets to about 25% and the system restarts. I've tried USB and Via Internet. Same thing each time. I updated to version 5007 back in July without any issues. Any suggestions on what to do?
  23. I got Displayport to work. I didn't have the end fully plugged into the monitor. Durrrr.
  24. My system is pretty well good. Ryzen 5 2600x @ 4GHZ 16GB G.Skill DDR4 3200MHz EVGA XC Black Edition RTX 2070. But my issue is, Displayport will not work at all. I tried all 3 ports on the video card and still nothing. I'm using the Displayport cable that with the monitor.
  25. Today I finally upgraded my 24" 1080p monitor to this monstrosity 34" ultrawide 1440p monitor. I only got it as it the store had it on sale for $600 CDN. Last one in stock. I wasn't gonna say no to that.
×