kotolus

Thanks guys! I'll use my old card then.

I need a GPU replacement until the new cards come out. I have a GT 650 laying around somewhere. Will that work with my current X570 Aorus Ultra MB? How far back in time can I go with usable cards? Can I alternatively use the onboard card or are those still so bad that a game will barely run on it on lowest settings?

Some PC's seem to have the same stuff in different locations, no clue why and also no clue about the registry in general, since I barely use it. You could maybe google different locations for it. Theres also another key for the windows installer service which can set it so 'busy', I unfortunately forgot its name, so you'd have to google that, too. Lastly, if it's NVidia specific you could try their instructions, they're liked in the installers 'installation failed' message and generally, they recommend removing all old drivers. If you do that and still can't install new driver, you'll end up without any driver and can't play any game anymore like me.

I finally got it after about 10 hours... for whatever reason (I certainly didn't do this manually) one registry entry which was specifically meant to enable/disable driver installation was set to the wrong value: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\DeviceInstall\Parameters\DeviceInstallDisabled was set to 1 and setting it to 0 fixed it for me.

Thanks, I'll try that. I should also mention that I just realized that I always get that sound on start up that usually plays when a new device is connected. I think there's some driver continuously trying to install. Edit: Unfortunately didn't work, same results as before even though im not 100% sure if the progress bar didn't go further this time before showing the error message. I also tried using that tool earlier (though not in that specific manner). Only difference it made is that now in the upper category in the device manager there is a device called 'system' instead of something like 'video controller', which apparently was my GPU. It showed the GPUs name when trying to install the drivers from there but then said it couldn't update due to the installer not being available. Ever since using the tool it now won't even find a suitable driver (just in case this info somehow helps). I'd rather assume the issue is not with nvidia but with my PC not installing any new drivers (especially since I get that message and I get the sound when booting up). Any ideas how that could happen?

Hi, I have a major issue with my PC. I recently tried a clean install of the Nvidia Drivers on my PC since GeForce Experience couldn't update them automatically. Unfortunately, only the uninstall worked - the following installation did not. The Nvidia installer doesn't give me any hint as to why it failed. If I try to install them manually from the device manager I get the error message 'one of the installers for this device cannot perform the installation at this time'. I can't restore the system since I didn't create any points in time for that early enough. I already ensured that no Nvidia Services or programs are running. I already ran sfc and system health scan. I tried booting in safe mode and booting without any auto start apps or services running. I made sure that trusted installer and windows installer services are not disabled (both set to manual start I believe, tried auto start for the windows installer service as well). Same error message every time. Does anybody have any idea what might cause this? Last idea:

You can try connection it without the USB thing. It improved quality for me. You might need an additional adapter for that though, I think it depends on the ports your PC has.

CPU is always under 70° I think. Other sensors on the MB are below 60°, but I'll occasionally get warnings that they are over 80°, when I check they are way lower though. I generally have a really good CPU cooler (Scythe Fuma) and a decent case for thermals (NZXT H710). I did create my own fan profile though, so maybe they were too slow.

I observed something weird today. My ping was higher than usual. I did ping checks with graphs over a period of time with multiple servers. Even though it wasn't very consistent the ping seemed to spike for multiple servers at once. So I guessed the issue had to be on my side. After trying everything else I could think of I turned up my fan speed in my PC. My ping went down in a matter of seconds and stayed there (re-checked it for about 5 minutes). Was this a weird coincidence or could built up heat actually cause this? I was working on my PC for about 7 hours before I started gaming, so it was running for a long time.

My PC frequently, though not always, boots up by itself right after I turn it off. I've already disabled all kinds of wake-on-lan that I could find and pulled the LAN cable, still the same. I assume the source is some kind of software that does this somewhat deliberately. I found the following entries in the event mananger: 'The system was reactivated from standby mode'. Time in energy saving mode: ‎2020‎-‎01‎-‎14T10:48:41.830503200Z' 'Reactivation time: ‎2020‎-‎01‎-‎14T10:49:10.752869300Z' 'Source of reactivation: unknown' 'The start type was 0x1' 'The start manager waited 0ms for a user input' 'Intel(R) I211 Gigabit Network Connection. Network connection was disconnected' 'The system was reactivated from energy saving mode' 'The system was put into standby mode' 'A process in user mode tried to change the system status using SetSuspendState- or SetSystemPowerState-API' Chronological order from top=newest to bot=oldest. Translated. Does any of this give a clue about the source? If not, does anybody have an idea how to identify the source?

Ty for the input. I've observed everything described here as well. I also set my fan curve roughly like Jeppes said. I don't think that's the perfect solution though since I think the CPU might be running unnecessarily hot during lower loads then. My CPU is also at around 50 - 65° without a game open, just some regular software for productivity (such as Microsoft Office, nothing really demanding), which is kinda weird. Another thing I've noticed when I wanted to test at which point the CPU will start throttling is that even when I turn the CPU fans off almost completely, the temp will not rise under the same low load. So either the readings are wrong or fan speed is nearly irrelevant until the CPU is actually under heavy load, in which case adjusting the fan curve so that it basically just has one spike is really the solution. The temp readings are still weird in any case as I can hardly believe that a single core boost will momentarily increase the CPU temp by 10°+. The processor is a 3800X btw.

My Smart Fan 5 Software by Gigabyte sometimes shows CPU temps fluctuating rapidly. The temps can go up and down again by about 10°C in less than 5 seconds. Can this possibly be a correct reading? I guess it's a problem with the temp sensors. I've read about multiple people having this issue, but couldn't find a fix. It's really annoying since my CPU is constantly between 50°C and 65°C in idle according to that reading, and the default fan curves get way steeper in the middle of those values, causing my fans to spin faster for a few seconds, which is pretty noisy. I don't really want to modify the curve a lot to push the fans to be silent through that entire span since I don't know if it's good for the CPU to constantly run that hot (we're still talking about mostly idle). I've got a good air cooler and a case with above average thermal performance according to Gamers Nexus. My MB is a Aorus X570 Ultra.

It kind of blows my mind that almost every PC sold today has some kind of RBG and there is no really good, universal software for it. I've got a Gigabyte board, Gigabyte GPU and TridentZ Ram. I tried four different softwares (Gigabyte, Asus, MSI, CAM). I only got the Gigabyte one to work at all, but it had very limited options. I was able to control the ram though, so there's got to be some standardization. Does anybody know some good software that can controll all the RGB and also allows me to see temps and fan speeds? An all-in-one solution would be really nice instead of a suboptimalexperience-in-fourdifferentsoftwares solution.

Nevermind, I can't get them cheaper. It was just a mistake on Amazons side.

Does anybody know how I can find out if the 'G.SKILL F4-3866C18D-16GTZR' have B-dies and on which latencies I can run them on if I turn down the clock speed? In some RAM tests lower speeds (sometimes even below 3733) are better, which is why I wanted to get 3600 CL 16-16-16. They are still kind of affordable and should do well (very close to the best) in almost all cases. However, I can actually get the Trident Z 3866 CL 18 cheaper right now and I wonder if it's worth it. The specified timing is 3866 CL 18-19-19-19, I would like to lower it to 3733 CL 16-16-16 and I have no clue how to find out if that's possible (or if there are even B-dies in the modules, otherwise I can very likely not get those timings). Maybe a list with all the XMP profiles that come with it would help, but I can find close to nothing on their website.

Alright, thanks for the help!

Just out of curiosity though... how do the 'gaming' headsets stack up against these? I can barely find any reviews comparing them to something like this. Just found the Corsair HS70 Pro Wireless Gaming Headset. I like the looks, the fact that it's wireless and that it has noise cancelling. I guess the audio is significantly worse though?

Yeah I checked now, they cost $210, so they're even more expensive. Also kinda don't wanna buy an amp. So I guess I should get the 599 then, doesn't sound like the extra money is worth it

Unfortunately I'm from Germany.

I can't find the ones you suggested anywhere. Were they like a one time special edition or something? Also I narrowed my selection down to the two ones I mentioned because I can get them for good prices and I read that they're both recommended for FPS gaming and that they 'scale' well with the price (meaning the AT should actually be significantly better) and I just wanted to get a second opinion on that last statement. But it sounds like you're saying they're pretty equal in terms of overall sound quality and it just comes down to taste, while you'd even rather suggest another one in that price range that's better (which wasn't mentioned in my original source)

Really? I kinda wanted them for both. If I had to choose then I'd want better gaming performance, assuming that both of them would be pretty good for music though. I never really looked much into music quality until now. Are you talking about a preference/taste in how they sound or universal quality?

I think I can get both for a good price relative to their regular one. I know both generally have good sound quality and are fit for FPS gaming. What I don't know is if the more expensive ones are that much better that the additional cost is justified: Sennheiser 599: ~$90 AT AD900X: ~$150 I currently have a HyperX Cloud II and I want the upgrade to be worth it in general, mine aren't broken, I just want better ones. The Audio Technica ones are supposed to have a better sound stage than the Sennheiser. I don't know how much better, though, and if there's anything else justifying the price gap.

Does anybody remember from previous black fridays (and other deal types around that time) if PC hardware components are usually much cheaper? I can currently get most components for my new PC for about 15% less. I wonder if I should buy them now or hope that my 'selection' of components (already chose parts, only about one alternative per part) will happen to be even cheaper during black friday.

Are there any tests comparing the two Trident Z Neo 3600 CL 16 modules? They actually offer two different ones at very different price points. For one of them only the first listed latency number is 16, the full name is 16-19-19-39 instead of 16-16-16-36. They are both still usually listed as CL 16... I was just curious to know how if that one 16ns timing actually makes a difference or if it's rather a scammy CL 19. Here are the two modules: https://www.gskill.com/specification/165/326/1562839299/F4-3600C16D-16GTZN-Specification https://www.gskill.com/specification/165/326/1562840073/F4-3600C16D-16GTZNC-Specification

Very nice answer, thanks! Edit: I'm likely going to get the Aorus Pro as it has the ALC1220-VB standard and they advertise 'High-End Audio Capacitors (WIMA & Nichicon Fine Gold'.