Dr0y

Well tdp numbers are not something that are that much reliable in the first place. 
 
It can be a lot of stuff if the cooler is not getting warm ... and I'm just throwing idea there :
 
Bad paste batch
Bad paste application (but I don't think so since it was reapplied several time I think)
Too old thermal paste maybe from staying too long in a warehouse
Contact that is not good enough from the cpu to the cooler due to a poorly machined surface of the cooler
Contact that is not good enough due to some low mounting pressure
Heatpipes that are not good enough/bad/damaged inside and can't transfer the heat properly
Stock thermal interface between the actual chip to the integrated heat spreader that is bad/not efficient enough
 
Too much stock voltage to the chip due to motherboard manufacturer tuning it strangely causing higher than normal temps (was reported by some reviewers (jay and steve from what I recall) on some motherboard, just don't remember which ones)
 

beyer dt880
sennheiser hd560s
akg k612 pro
sennheiser hd600

k361 has a more agreeable tuning for most people. many people find the entire dt lineup sibilant 

Premium ABS>Budget PBT

software or games you are playing ... depending on what you're doing with the computer ... some games/software are more cpu demanding and some others are more gpu demanding ... so it always depend but most likely it's a good pairing and you probably won't face serious bottleneck ...
 
Also, like it was said before, check for an rx580 if you can find one for about the same price as an rx 570 ... the 580 will be better ... and I would go sapphire nitro or powercolor red devil as they have quite good coolers. 

Go fot it ... gf had an I5 3470 with a gtx 970 and it was pretty decent performance.  I'm pretty sure you won't leave much performance on the table expecially if you play on higher setting. 

No idea ... I don't really know much about sensors except that now they mostly are good enough and matters really less than a lot of other things on mouse like shape, size, weight and such ... unless you're extreme competitive gamers and that you do tournaments and make a living out of it ... and then you will probably use something like a logitech gpro ultralight or a glorious mouse or something more exotic ...
 
Redragon is a budget brand ... it doesn't mean that they make crap products but they surely won't put the best of the best in there ... did they cut on the sensor, the switches, the scroll wheel, the build quality .... ??  no idea ... maybe they didn't cut corner at all ... the only way to know is to look for reviews and/or test the mouse for yourself ... also that mouse seems quite heavy ... if you are playing shooter maybe try to look for a lighter mouse, something more around 100g or 150g ... 240 seems quite heavy

All three OEMs of IBM Model M13 buckling spring keyboards with TrackPoint or other pointing stick:

 
L-R:
Lexmark-made P/N 92G7461 Maxi Switch-made P/N 13H6705 Unicomp-made P/N 18P7970 This was at one point going to be the cover photo for an article I was working on comparing the three, but the article was scrapped before release due to a lack of interesting commentary. Instead, recycling the facts for my site's wiki in the future. Just found this otherwise cool photo whilst digging through my unused stuff.

The switch should be easy to find. IIRC they just used a toggle switch, so go to Mouser or Digi-Key and find a toggle switch with the correct pin spacing and bushing diameter. If you're lucky it even has a part on it. 
 
You could also try bugging Schiit to see if they'll be nice enough to tell you the part number. Now and then companies will be nice.
 
 
As for the Modi... ASR really ripped Schiit a new one for the performance of their older DACs. The Modi 2 had quite a bit of jitter and was fairly sensitive to USB power. It's also bizarre in that it doesn't use a delta-sigma DAC chip like most DACs - I think they're using some Analog Devices R-R chip.
 
That device led to quite a few accusations of the engineers at Schiit being "not real engineers" or "science deniers", (the typical ASR response to below-average performance).
 
The reality? Even the Modi 2 is still lower noise and more linear than the vast majority of power amps, which are usually at least an order of magnitude more linear than the transducers you're driving. Despite being mediocre by DAC standards, it's still good enough to not matter. 
 
I have a Modi 2 Uber that I got around 2017 - 2018. I don't use it that much anymore because it doesn't have balanced outputs, but seriously, I absolutely cannot tell the difference between it and my Lynx L22 under most conditions. Okay, the L22 has lower noise and lower distortion - that's why I have it. But unless you're trying to use it for measurements, who cares?

If you know what you are looking for you should be able to hear a difference. There are also pretty measurable differences. Should be cleaner , less compressed sounding, more detail, and maybe an improvement from staging. 

Singa TGR Unikorn R2.1, carbon fiber plate, marshmallow switches lubed and filmed, GMK violet tendencies, keycult brass artisans, unikorn enter artisan by me anodized by caustic customs. Stainless steel weight polished and heat treated by kneedeep

Singa TGR Unikorn R1, carbon fiber plate, cream switches broken in, spring swap and lubed 205 g0,  GMK striker keycaps, unikorn artisan by me. Case, keycult wrist rest, and artisans anodized by caustic customs. Stainless steel weight polished by kneedeep.
 

Singa TGR unikorn r1, carbon fiber plate, alpaca switches, GMK VOC caps, keycult brass artisans, unikorn artisan by me anodized by caustic customs. Wrist rest by me r1 prototype 

Singa TGR Unikorn MY edition, only 12 made. 
carbon fiber plate, gateron ink switches, GMK VOC caps. Keycult brass artisans, Unikorn artisan by myself. 
 

 

Singa TGR unikorn SG, only 12 made, stainless steel case. Carbon fiber plate, boba switches, GMK Rouge caps, Keycult brass artisans.
 

IBM 3178-C4 EBCDIC Typewriter Keyboard, P/N 6052141, from 1985. A Model F "blue switch" capacitive buckling springs keyboard. The purpose of this titular switch was to toggle between all-uppercase and mixed case text display on the host terminal. "Typewriter" in the name refers to the fact the keyboard was made for actual writing input usage instead of purely repetitive data entry, which were distinct tasks on these old terminals and thus had unique keyboards for both. The blue 'coily' thing in the second photo is a solenoid (its original one, in fact) that is designed to make the keyboard louder as you type, because why not!

Anyway, it's my next restoration project! Chiefly, it suffers from severe case damage. I have ideas on how to patch it up (with 3D-printed parts and/or resin moulds), but I'm still spinning ideas at the moment. Otherwise, the keyboard is mechanically sound.
 



 
There are a few more photos on my site if you're curious - I didn't want to spam all of them here. I'll also be documenting the restoration to help others in the future too.

Have my baby ❤️

It's a custom keyboard using the IDOBAO ID80 V2 ISO, Tribosys 3203 lubed Glorious Pandas (tactile switches with a strong tactile bump) and modifier keys are springswapped with 16mm 90g springs, Tai Hao Bright Miami PBT Keycaps, Durock V2 Stabilisers holee modded and lubed, Resin Wristrest

It's my second custom keyboard I ever made and I love it so much. The Enter key stab unfortunately didnt turn out well, trying to find the motivation to fully take apart my keyboard to fix that stab.

Tofu96 i built a few weeks ago

Here's a 3080 with factory OC
 

yes those are two different class of card ... that leaves room to insert a super variant between the 3060 and the 3060 ti ...
 
also this is the score with my new card which doesn't have any OC
 

It's the core hotspot temperature so the hottest spot at one point in time on the core.
 
On my 3060 it was 10 C to 12 C higher than the average ...

They are offering compensation by providing you a full refund for what you paid for it - which is exactly what you are entitled to if the product was defective.
This isn't really an issue with MSI. You'd likely be facing the same issue if it was any other brand.

I hear what you say, and I understand how annoying it must be, but why should the store refund you more money than you gave to them? That does not make sense. 

Quite an interesting discussion ...
 
When OCing memory remember that GDDR6 have error correction which will affect performance negatively before you reach the point of artifacting or crashing ... the highest memory clock before artifact/crash is most likely not the sweet spot in performance for memory OC ... on my 3060 it crashed at +1400 (never saw artifact) but the highest score I got in port royal was with +925 on memory ... everything higher than that lead to lower and lower score ... also port royal score were really consistent between one run and another ...
 
As for the core I was able to get +175 to pass in port royal, superposition, timespy ... crashed in heaven ... I had to dial it back to +160 ... passed all the benchmark I usually do ... crashed in horizon zero dawn ... final OC stable in game was +130 on core and +600 on memory just to be sure I would not crash anywhere. 
 
Hope that sharing my experience helps a bit and that it wasn't too annoying or misplaced.

That keyboard is beautiful ... I really like the big enter and the long left shift ...