Jump to content

Dr0y

Member
  • Posts

    1,433
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Dr0y

  1. beyer dt880 sennheiser hd560s akg k612 pro sennheiser hd600
  2. I wouldn't call the logitech keycaps premium abs but it surely can feel better than the rk pbt keycaps ... personally I think it might be a matter of thickness ... thicker plastic might feel more premium than thinner one ... also maybe it's the profile they use ... some profile might feel cheaper to you than some other. The nicest keycap set I have is an SA profile abs glossy set ... but even tho it feels and looks premium well I don't really like SA profile so I prefer using dsa or xda set I have which are pbt
  3. I had a good experience with xtrfy m42 mouse ... not saying that all their mouse are good but that one is pretty nice. also had a nice time with my akko 3068b keyboard ... they usually make solid board but not sure their mouse are good
  4. Dr0y

    Magni 3+ power switch

    So in the end I got that power switch from mouser.ca https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dailywell/1MD1T1B4M7CES?qs=B6kkDfuK7%2FAJbbilgQl4YQ%3D%3D&countrycode=CA&currencycode=CAD I screwed up the repair probably cause lack of skill, really bad soldering iron and no flux ... I ended up tearing a contact pad so ruining the pcb. In the end I just got a brand new magni 3+
  5. It will work with the cpu, but it just won't run at the speed stated by the ram kit cause the cpu might not be able to I would get the a 3200 or 3600 kit (not corsair lpx tho) and just use it at whichever speed the cpu memory controller is able to handle (probably 3000 from what I remember reading). a cpu upgrade would be really good in the near future ... something like a used 3600 or 5600 would be quite nice upgrade and those don't have any problem running 3600 ram kit.
  6. check out leopold offering and specially with silent switches like silent red ... or get something hotswappable and get some silent switches like the kailh silent box switches, gateron silent line, boba have some silent switches too ... red and brown are not quiet by any means ... they don't have click mechanism but still make noise when typing, silent switches have rubber dampers on the steam that dampens the sound when typing. That is what will sound the most quiet besides something like a silenced topre keyboard.
  7. I don't need media control on my keyboard ... some keyboard with knob can be use for video editing if it's map-able
  8. I have the sponge switches and I can't recommend them ... might want to look for the akko ocean blue or the akko lavender purple instead ... between those three the lavender purple are my favourites and the ones that feels the smoothest.
  9. Dr0y

    Magni 3+ power switch

    the unit barely turns on ... I have to play with the switch in order to get it to work and it sometimes just turn off by itself for no reason ... the contact inside the switch is not good anymore so I have to get a new switch to replace the faulty one.
  10. Dr0y

    Magni 3+ power switch

    thanx, I'll check those out. As for the modi 2, I've noticed that it sounded different than the topping d20 I have but as for noise floor or distortion I really haven't heard any difference. And even tho they sound different I can't say which one I like better. Maybe the d20 is brighter and the modi 2 is warmer and a bit less detailed ... that's probably how I would describe them with the limited audio terminology I have. Even tho it's good enough I still might try to get a modi 3+ and either sell the modi 2 or replace the topping d20 with the modi 2, still not sure about that tho. I'm also tempted to get a Cambridge Audio dac to replace the d20.
  11. yes the g305 is really nice ... you can get an adapter to use AAA instead of AA battery which reduce the weight of it. Also if you use lithium battery, they will most likely last for more than a year unless you're gaming 18h/24h ... The nice thing about the 305 is that some people make 3d printed lightweight shell for them, so you can end up reducing the weight of it significantly ... but it add to the total cost. There's the razer orochi that has some good reviews, but I don' know how good it really is ... same for the viper and viper mini.
  12. I have the cooler master mm710 and the xtrfy m42 and I like them both. Hardware canuck just released their top mouse of the year ... you can also check out their older video like that, that will give you an idea.
  13. So I got a used magni 3+ and the power switch got damaged during shipping ... it's now without a click and you can push it inside quite far without resistance. I've contacted schiit and they said that they can repair it for quite a fair price but the problem resides in the price of the shipping ... all in all, shipping it back an forth from Quebec would cost more than what I've paid the unit. My question would be, what kind of switch should I get to replace the stock one ? Do any of you have any model, part number or some link for me that would make it not that expensive to fix it. I can do the repair myself, it's not something that complicated, but I just want to be sure to get the right switch. Also on another subject, I have a modi 2 and I've heard it was not that good of a dac and also the finish on it doesn't match the rest of the stack. Would I hear an improvement in sound quality by getting the modi 3+ or would it just be about the same except that the stack will look better that way ? Thanx for the help.
  14. about one year and a half cause I couldn't tolerate the spring ping anymore ... you should check if the k552 you want to get is hotswappable or not ... if it is then it's quite easy to replace the switches with either an original outemu one or something that I would say would be better like some akko (really inexpensive) or boba. cherry is clearly not the golden standard ... well not anymore ... and imo the cherry brown are really meh compared to other tactiles I've tried be aware that the k552 sound really hollow and that the metal plate tend to amplify the sound of the switches specially the spring ping ... I had some blue and got tired of them not cause of the click jacket in the first place but cause of the spring ping that was resonating through all the keyboard. I'm in the quite slow (cause lack of motivation) process of modding and I hope to improve things a bit with some foam and padding inside ... also some tape mods and a stabilizer lube job ... will probably put some akko ocean blue in there too just to get rid of the outemu blue
  15. silent red are silenced switches with rubber damper ... of course you'll get some noise if you hammer them like a gorilla also no switches is completely silent, even topre are not and those are rubber dome ... but usually they are silent specially compared to switches that doesn't have bumpers in them like red and brown ... also I know that there's more quiet switches than those of course but the silent red still are silent ones what you hear in there are mostly the stabilizers rattling
  16. In the end it comes to the feeling you want from the switches ... clicky will have intentional click to the actuation of the switch as well as a tactile feel to it tactile don't have a click mechanism but will have a tactile feedback linear don't have a click mechanism and don't have tactile feedback,they are "smooth" from top to bottom. but all of them are not completely silent, if you want completely silent switches you will need to get silent switches that have rubber bumpers inside that dampens the sound ... cherry silent red, kailh silent box pink or brown are just an example of those silent switches ... as your keyboard choice, you should avoid gamery brand, they usually have bad value and bad build quality ... for now try to decide which kind of general switches you would like, check out some review and sound test of those ... after that come back for keyboard suggestions Hope that helps a bit
  17. yes those are two different class of card ... that leaves room to insert a super variant between the 3060 and the 3060 ti ... also this is the score with my new card which doesn't have any OC
  18. It's the core hotspot temperature so the hottest spot at one point in time on the core. On my 3060 it was 10 C to 12 C higher than the average ...
  19. yes sorry i replied to the wrong thing but yes it's superposition 1080p extreme the strange thing is that I put that gpu in my gf's pc and the score is 400 points lower if I remember correctly ...
  20. 5565 with core +150 memory +925, fan at max
  21. highest temp of that 3060 was about 70 or 72 C if I remember correctly ... maybe a bit lower ... ambient temps around 23 C
  22. no idea ... but my guess would be temperature related cause I got less core than you, smaller die I think or something like that ... silicon lottery maybe ... there's a lot of things that could influence that ...
  23. Quite an interesting discussion ... When OCing memory remember that GDDR6 have error correction which will affect performance negatively before you reach the point of artifacting or crashing ... the highest memory clock before artifact/crash is most likely not the sweet spot in performance for memory OC ... on my 3060 it crashed at +1400 (never saw artifact) but the highest score I got in port royal was with +925 on memory ... everything higher than that lead to lower and lower score ... also port royal score were really consistent between one run and another ... As for the core I was able to get +175 to pass in port royal, superposition, timespy ... crashed in heaven ... I had to dial it back to +160 ... passed all the benchmark I usually do ... crashed in horizon zero dawn ... final OC stable in game was +130 on core and +600 on memory just to be sure I would not crash anywhere. Hope that sharing my experience helps a bit and that it wasn't too annoying or misplaced.
  24. you could just get the layout you want and make yourself a macro pad that you can place about anywhere you want on your desk.
  25. Yes there is a lot of difference between let's say cherry brown and kailh brown... the kailh will feel a bit heavier with a stronger tactile bump and smooter than the cherry ones. I know cause I have board with both those switches. A switch tester is a nice way to get started but after you choose which switches you want you'll be stuck with it unless you are able to sell it. You should get something hotswappable like the gmmk, keychron (depending of the layout you want it can come hotswappable) and such and just test the switches by getting a kit ... The board being hotswappable will allow you try a lot a switches without changing the board completely or desoldering and soldering back. It will also allow you to change or lube the stabilizers easily and do some maintenance and modifications which is a big big plus imo. you can look at akko switches, they are really not expensive and quite good quality for their price. The gateron yellow is really nice linear that is quite smooth and usually really inexpensive. If you want to try some actually good clicky go for kailh box white, jade or navy ... they use a clickbar which provides a really crisp click and sharp tactility ... the usually used click jacket in something like the blue kind of make the switch sound rattly and the feeling is just meh ... I didn't like clicky until I tried the kailh box white and navy.
×