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Cornish

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Posts posted by Cornish

  1. I have a problem that I've been trying to diagnose myself and got part way, but haven't been able to pinpoint exactly so need some help. I really don't want to have to do a clean install of windows as I don't want to have to reinstall and reconfigure everything.

     

    If I'm moving my mouse then windows will hang every 5 seconds for 1 second, or at least the image will, audio continues and when the image restarts the mouse pointer will jump to where it would have been had it not hung (an di fI spun the scroll wheel I get beeps as though the input buffer is full). This is only an issue when I'm moving the mouse but it happens whether I'm in an application or just in the desktop, if I don't touch the mouse then there is no hanging, however, moving the mouse immediately causes a 1 second hang. No other input cases this hang to occur (for example I've had notepad open and held down a ky on the keyboard, the letter was put in without a hang for a 30 seconds, as soon as I moved the mouse it hung)

    To try and diagnose this I have:

    Booted into safe mode - no hanging

    Updated my graphics drivers (AMD) - no effect

    Disabled services one by one - no effect

    Removed mouse in Device manager and redetected - no effect

    reinstalled windows (but on top of existing instance so I didn't have to reinstall all my apps) - no effect

    Tried different mice - no effect

    Tried differenet USB ports - no effect

    Disabled Realtek HD audio drivers (some people online say this helped them) - no effect

    Tried to update mouse drivers - can't find a more recent Microsoft HID-compliant mouse driver

    Uninstaleld and reinstalled the Logitech software - no effect (also no effect running without Logitech software installed)

    Updated the BIOS -  no effect

    Removed everything bar Windows security from startup - no effect

    Changed monitor and connection type - no effect

     

    To try and see if I could see anything more subtle I installed Windows Performance Recorder, there are no spikes on CPU, memory, I/O, storage, power, etc. and the frame rates being reported are consistant. I can see the gaps in the process frame and Windows DWM-core event logs, the gap is consistantly 1.1 seconds long and starts 5 seconds after the end of the previous gap. There don't seem to be any obvious events or processes that line up with the gaps either...

     

    Unfortuantely I can't say exactly when this started, but it was sometime in the last fortnight (I had been running with a dying monitor that flickered for that period). As I said above, I really don't want to have to clean install, but it's getting to the point where I'm out of any better ideas...

     

    For reference System spec:

    Ryzen 2600 (not OC)

    XFX Radeon 580 8GB (not OC)

    Asus Prime 450m-K

    16GB RAM @ 2666Mhz (not OC)

  2. I noticed that my Ryzen 2600 was pegged at 3.8Ghz on all cores even when idle so had a look about to see why this was and it turned out it was because of the Windows power management set to high performance so it was always running the CPU at 100%, even when not needed. I changed it down to balanced with max CPU still set to 100% and then played some games not thinking to close HWMonitor. I've not overclocked the processor at all (though may have precision boost on in the bios) and am just using a stock cooler with MX-4 thermal compound and saw that all bar one of the cores had gone over 4GHz and 2 of them had peaked at over 4.3GHz! All the while the temperature didn't breach 72C... This is where my confusion sets in, I've seen lots of people saying that even with OC and bumping up the voltage they are only getting up to 4.2GHz max. Have I just been extremely lucky in the silicon lottery?

     

    I've pasted a screenshot. for reference.

    image.png.ad146bb73c0a9c3d13b39ab261d5951f.png

  3. Thanks all,.

    @Kilrah it might not be the absolute latest bios, but it is one from the last 12 months so supports the 2600 (and it did support the 2400g which doesn't work anymore).

    @TheDailyProcrastinator Did try the CMOS battery and yes, monitor was.plugged into GPU, though did try plugged into onboard as well when I put the 2400g back in.

     

    @BlueScope819 that's my suspicion as well, will have to get it fully out to have a close look, but if it is a damaged trace then I don't think there's anything I can do about it is there?

     

     

  4. I recently got myself a Ryzen 2600 to replace by 2400g, but after swapping them I can't get a post. All of components were untouched in the process and it was working perfectly before I started this.

     

    I have tried putting the 2400g back on and using both igpu and separate GPU through hdmi and dp, still no luck. Have done the usual steps of single stick of ram, only the m.2 boot drive connected, had the CMOS battery out for ~4 hours. All to no avail with either processor.

     

    U suspect I've s rewed the mobo as when I first tried to remove the old CPU the heatsink was pretty well stuck and I tried pulling it straight off so thought maybe that could have damaged the socket (but the CPU stayed put and is unscathed)? Also my screwdriver slipped whilst loosening the heatsink and hit the motherboard, but I don't think it hit any onboard components. 

    Any help/suggestions would be greatly received.

     

    The build is: 

    Ryzen 2400g/2600

    Xfx rx580 GTS xxx 8GB

    16gb balistix sport lt ram (2*8 matched pair)

    Asrock b450m-hdv motherboard

    Intel 760p 128GB m.2 drive

    Kolink 500w 80plus psu

    Wireless card + 1hdd + 1ssd

  5. 15 minutes ago, Mateyyy said:

    The 3300X should be better for gaming in most cases, but who knows for how long this will be the case as games start using more and more threads, and the next-gen consoles will have 8C/16T CPUs in them. How much can you get the 3600 for?

    The 3600 is about £150, more than I can stretch to at the moment, but my mobo being a bottleneck was my main worry, I'm happyish to take the risk in core count...

  6. 11 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

    Where are you looking to buy the 3300x for that price? cheapest I can see is around £115

    A local shop said they expected the cost to be just under £100 when they had availability, I've only seen preorders so far online at your price.

  7. I'm sure this has been discussed bit I can't find a good answer so I will ask it anyway.

    I currently have a Ryzen 2400g which I bought for a budget gaming rig, since then I have added a GPU (rx580) but am still running the asrock b450m-hdv mobo with 16GB of dual channel ram that I started with. I'm now wanting to upgrade the CPU as I don't need the built in graphics and it seems to be holding its value well on the second hand market. BUT, I don't know if I should go for a 2600 or get a 3300x.

    I know the 3300x is benchmarking better for gaming at 1080 (which is my main use case), but I don't know of that would be compromised by the rest of my config not being able to take advantage of the increased speed. The price for them both should be very similar (£80ish for the 2600, £95 for the 3300x) so it's purely performance that I'm interested in...

  8. Bear with me on this one as it's a bit of a niche problem I imagine.

    I have an awful lot of shortcuts on my desktop and to try and make it all cleaner and nicer without just having loads of folders I installed Tago Fences so I could set up containers with shortcuts to different categories of things (and have the same item in multiple containers), which I'm loving apart from one annoying thing. For proper shortcuts it is showing me the correct icon in the container, however, for internet shortcuts it shows a generic shortcut icon, this means all of the games that I have that use a launcher don't have an icon in the container but do on the desktop. It appears to be something to do with the way that Win 10 typecasts the shortcut object. So the question is:

    Does anyone know of a way to create a 'proper' shortcut out of a url?

     

    I know that I could go through my library and create shortcuts to the game's .exe but then you lose some of the added value that a launcher provides (e.g. steam controller mapping or online play) and some games don't seem to want to work at all without being launched via the launcher (RDR2 I'm looking in your direction).

    Any help or suggestions would be greatly received but I may just have to end up paying the money for stardock fences as I think that offers a bit more functionality (but I am tight so I'd probably just end up living with this).

  9. It's basically going to be used for gaming, but only what can be supported by the onboard graphics, it's also got 16gb of memory (dual 8gb ballistix sport at 2666mhz), an SSD, an HDD and an m.2 drive. The PSU will be thermally separated from the rest of the components... If I ever do add discrete graphics, then that would similarly be separated...

  10. If it would pull air in whilst being used as a cooler, still attached to the heatsink... I'm thinking of building my own case, probably only as thick as the cooler itself when mounted, or as close to as possible. I'm wanting to mount the whole thing on the underside of a desk whilst not impeding leg room so it will need to be as thin as possible, hence the idea of having the CPU cooler pull in air from the room...

  11. This may be a silly question, but, I'm thinking of building myself a VERY slimline case to mount on the underside of a desk and it made me wonder is there any reason why I couldn't use the fan on the wraith cooler like an additional intake (filtered obviously)? I was planning to have an in and an out at opposite ends of the case anyway but this would pull extra, room temp air in specifically for the CPU (Ryzen 2400g).

  12. I've just built a new B450 system with a 128GB Intel 760P as boot drive and a 2TB Barracuda for storage. When I was poking around the AMD tools I started reading about StoreMI and remembered I have an old, unused 60GB SSD (SATA 2) that I was going to put into my media server but didn't get around to. My usage will mainly be gaming and some light photo editing, SO, is it worth setting up StoreMI tiering the 60GB SSD and the 2TB HDD?

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