David_1276

Not even Ryzen/ decent (a8 or better) AMD APU?

Hey so that really, only looking for 11.6 inches or smaller, with at least a decent iGPU (Ideally a Ryzen laptop?) I'm not bothered about which manufacturer makes it, or how thick or heavy or hot or indeed old it is, so long as I could get away with at least light eSports titles on it, as my Clevo is a little big at 14". The best I can find is the Clevo W110ER, which has the GTX 650 in it, which is about where I'd like the GPU to be able to perform, and not that I'm too bothered about price but that PC is very expensive for what it is and never becomes available in the UK with the dedicated 650. Literally anything will do so long as it has ballpark similar performance to a 650. I don't think there are any 940mx/mx150/mx130 etc. dedicated cards in 11.6 inch chassis though I found one on Alibaba.com with a 920m and a Celeron J3455, which is not by any standards great, though may have to do. Thanks

But will it not be badly damaged?

£200, (~$230) which is about £100 cheaper than most but I would be able to get one for £220 if I looked for a while

So I buy a used Vega 64 for my friend who wants a gaming PC and I get greeted with this when I go to repaste the GPU die. The card appears to still work though has significant chipping to both the edge and centre of the die (Yes it is perfectly clean and has been fervently wiped), a problem which manifests gradually over time I believe, and whilst it isn't an issue now could soon become one, and whilst if it was me I would take the risk of keeping the GPU until it eventually broke, though my friend is tech illiterate and I live far enough away from him that troubleshooting/ parts replacement would be really inconvenient. So the question is, do I return the GPU under eBay's infamous buyer protection under an "item not as described" case or not? I hate doing that to people but he obviously knew about the damage as the paste had only recently been replaced and the card has an aftermarket cooler on it anyway, and it looks as if its only going to get worse in terms of damage. The chips aren't catastrophic but there are lots of them and the one on the edge is of particular concern to me as it's quite significant. I probably would feel better returning it because I'm putting a Carbonaut pad on here so he doesn't have to repaste at all, and I need the whole thing to be as low maintenance as possible, and a fault like that could even take the rest of his PC whilst he's at it. Thanks

Nope, should be all good

I believe code 40 means system is waking up from a S4 sleep state, go into settings and put hybernation mode to off in your OS under power settings. This should resolve it

Oh and the HDD/ SSD combo is a bit too much, pretty sure you could get an m.2 for that price and you could get a new 2tb HDD for £30 most of the time. Everything else looks good tho

Also that motherboard is too much for what it is, you could get a top of the range-ish b450 for that price

Would you be prepared to go used? If not still swap the 3300x for a 1600 "AF" and that video card is overpriced.

In theory? Yes. It looks like a standard ATX layout in there to me, which means any M/ATX board should fit in fine. Though like I said, do at your own risk, the airflow in there looks poor and that PSU, whilst a decent unit for more low power builds, will be stretched with a 2700. I'd say an 80+ Silver or better 550W would be your best bet, and they aren't too expensive.

Try not to cut corners. You could get a crappy B450 but I wouldn't recommend it, instead I'd wait for a while if I were you until you save up enough for a decent combo, including a new PSU as it most likely wouldn't suffice for more than a few months before taking all of your components with it.

Oh oopsie I thought he was going to 3rd gen

Also as @gloop says that 450W VS unit is far from ideal for a 2700 and presumably a GTX 1060? You'd be pushing it for sure and I wouldn't take the risk.

You will need either a B450 "Max" series motherboard or a new B550 board, providing that case is standard ATX. However, why not just upgrade the case too? As it would look much better and airflow would be far superior to a prebuilt case, and it looks as if you've replaced the GPU and PSU already.

Couldn't possibly say. It all depends on how well your chip is 'binned' (basically how pure the CPU silicon is- this differs but is nothing to worry about). I'd recommend looking up some 'safe' numbers for that chip, I.e where people get it to worst case scenario if the silicon is comparatively poor, but failing that get the chip to the desired clock speed on STOCK settings and then just incramentally lower the voltage by about 0.05, run a test, rinse and repeat until it becomes unstable, then revert to the last voltage setting before it became unstable. (You'll most likely do that 3 times for a 0.15 decrease on average)

Yes, so long as obviously you do it incrementally and run a stress test alongside. It may sound obvious, but don't go to the lowest possible voltage and highest possible overclock is what I'm trying to say. Undervolting may result in a smaller O/C compared to stock but you should still get a couple hundred MHz out of your chip compared to stock.

That will be fine I'm pretty sure, from memory I think it's one of the better b450s out there.

Also what is your motherboard? I wouldn't try it on anything less than a decent B450 for that CPU.

The CPU will run cooler when undervolting. Undervolt it from Master, it will be easier and has a near enough 0 failiure rate. It won't damage the CPU so long as you don't go ham, and in Master I'm sure there is a soft limit to how low you can go before any damage occurs. No real disadvantages, or at least any significant enough to discuss.

I don't really want to sell the card again, at least for a few months and that cooler doesn't really match the aesthetic of my build. Thanks

Yea, it is the best but I still think it looks pretty terrible even with the black/ grey Noctua fans on it compared to a regular AIB cooler. I considered going with an AIO or actual liquid cooling but ATM it would be a bit expensive for me to do that, especially since VEGA blocks are fairly uncommon now. Thanks

Hey so I just bought a new V64 after I was able to buy it for less than I sold my old V56... So much for a sensible downgrade but there you go. So I was wondering; This card is an MSI Air Boost edition, which is essentially just a reference card with a slightly better fan or so I can gather. Either way, my old VEGA was a blower cooler and I realise all of the problems with temps, noise etc. but I loved that card; flashed to a 64 but with not much additional tuning such as undervolting or overclocking, and though I routinely replaced the thermal paste and cleaned the card I was just happy with it as-was. So that brings me to my question; how can I get the best performance with this in terms of cooling? I'm talking reasonable undervolts, or putting thermal pads between the back of the PCB and the backplate. Where would I put thermal pads? Does anyone have a diagram/ picture of strategic placements? (My pads are Arctic, so non conductive.) Also, how much would an undervolt help? Not one that would significantly hurt performance, but just something that could reduce temps, and therefore noise, a bit. So long as, momentarily, it performs consistently with what I saw on my old card with reduced temps I'd be happy, and there are options such as the Rajintek Morpheus, one of which I have at my disposal, though that cooler looks so stupid and annoyingly poorly mounted IMO and my build is quite well coordinated in terms of looks, so I just really wouldn't like that in my build. (I tried it before BTW) So basically, I want to hit a happy medium between decent looks/ performance/ noise/ heat output by tweaking some things physical or otherwise. Thanks!

Thanks, so are those streaks actual damage or left behind residue? And If it doesn't immediately show its damage, will it not have any negative impacts on performance? I haven't cleaned it with anything else yet, aside from lcd cleaner which is what I normally use. Is there any way to get rid of the streaks? Thanks

Also it's only 80% acetone too