Vicariously

I would check that your motherboard bios is up to date, and that your PCI bus is set to the proper version. If its using the new PCI version but your card doesn't fully support it,(or vice versa) it could be causing that, likely just a setting in the bios to change.

Having the settings on low doesn't necessarily mean that the refresh rate sync stuff isn't enabled. It would be very strange if your power supply was the issue, from experience, low quality HDMI or Display Port cables can cause this too, I had to buy very expensive cables ($75 each) before a previous build behaved properly. Feedback can be a killer in things like that. What OS are you running? I wouldn't even attempt to use windows 11 right now, for most people it will be fine, but early adoption always causes issues. I had to turn off auto-updates on my current build windows 10 because between patches things would be so unstable, so I only ever update on major builds. The stuff we DIY'ers go through sometimes...

is this only a paladins issue? I would start by checking your display settings in game and in the graphics card software. You might have one of those 2 limiting your FPS while the other is unlimited, or you might have vsync enabled when it shouldnt be etc, all of those have caused me headaches in the past. Your monitors might also not be FreeSync capable which is AMDs version of Vsync (Vsync being the more widely available option) disable those settings on your monitor(s) and that might also help.

Those aren't quite what I'm looking for but thanks

Hi Everyone, I am still very new to networking and home server stuff and was hoping I could get some advice or pointers, (the biggest problem is I don't know what terminology I should be using so it's making research more difficult). I have a spare PC I am using as a PLEX server and also using it to share network folders to the PCs on my home network. I intend to eventually switch to a platform like UnRaid that's a little bit more specialized, but need spare time before I can 100% commit. The specs of the spare pc are still fairly modern I7 4790k 32gb RAM so performance shouldn't be a limiting factor. What I am trying to do is have software on my main PC (and if I can get it on my phone too that would be awesome) that will backup my files. I want them to be backed up to the server pc in the same directory structure they are on the device that they are being backed up from. If they can be organized on the server by device that's a bonus. Versioning and file history copies aren't a huge concern because I am doing this more or less for redundancy and as an alternative to purchasing a cloud backup solution subscription. I want the software to make changes to the backup directory on the server based on changes I have made on the device. For example if I add files to a folder on my main PC, they are copied to the server, and if I delete some from a folder on my main pc, the software removes them from the backup location. Someone once said "why don't you just work out of the network location all the time", but as I said this is about data redundancy and I don't want to have to constantly delete the same file in 2 different locations. I am not looking for something that backs up entire system images. Anyone have any advice for me? Thanks!

Yeah @Olaf6541, I wasn't even going to mention it until you posted about your arduino. Its a project I'm still doing my research on. I will be posting on pi specific threads on reddit and here likely until I can find an answer. I'm not against using arduino, I just have an extra pi (from my programmer friend) that I thought this would be good use of. I wanted to dump this project on him, but he has never done something like this before and I'm using this as a learning experience, just get his help with tidying everything up. Thanks for all the help!

@Olaf6541 I guess both/either? I had heard of the "make a text file, export it, have something read it, display it" thought that was maybe the long way around. (have this automated in like 1 second intervals, would likely be laggy) I don't know if real-time output to the pi would be more feasible, then it could just get thrown into the software and displayed.

I actually have a friend that does a lot of programming who can help me out with the GUI, and there are websites you can find examples and kind of copy them. I would be interested in knowing if you get that system tray display working. Have you ever heard of a way to export the temperature/sensor data from a PC?

Thanks @For Science! and @Olaf6541 for the help. I was getting a bit turned around and I feel confident this is all the info I need. @Olaf6541 I was thinking of doing something like this. I have a Pi and wanted to use it as a temperature monitor of sorts. I had to stop researching it as I got busy, but have the time now. I want to add a small (5-7") display inside my pc case, but use a pi or something to take the temperature data from all the sensors in the PC (GPU included) and create a custom GUI so it displays it. Essentially it would be like Aida64 or HWMonitor except its completely out of the system tasks and boots/shuts off with the system. Could this be done? I have seen some people that use HDMI and setup a 'monitor' in their pc and just leave one of those software running, but that to me seems lazy and looks cheap, and i don't want it to be showing up in windows, or have things move to it (like windows likes to do with multi monitor things). It doesn't need to be a fan controller, I have that covered for sure, but maybe I could also program it to be an RGB controller? (Yeah I'm one of 'those').

Hi all, I am new to water cooling, and am currently loving the loop I installed but after looking around for temperature and flow sensors, I wanted to start with something more simple as a temporary way to monitor temps before I eventually maybe install and LCD monitor or something. My problem is I have no idea how I am supposed to connect to the motherboard. On page 1-25 of my motherboard manual it says I can connect temperature and flow sensors but it doesn't really give me any indication of in what order (shows W_IN and W_OUT). I also heard mention that people can connect it to certain graphics cards and it would show up in the data for said graphics card's control panel? (IDK if this is true however) There also doesn't seem to be any indication of whether the port is polar (requiring positive and negative terminals in a certain order) and the plug doesn't indicate it either, no instructions... Looking for some advice as I can't seem to find anything online doing simple searches. If you have other options that you have used for displaying these temps and flow let me know (although flow isn't a huge concern for me right now) Thanks in advance! My Info: I have an Asus Maximus X Hero (Wi-fi) motherboard, the link to the manual is here: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/ROG_MAXIMUS_X_HERO_WI-FI_AC/E13646_ROG_MAXIMUS_X_HERO_WI-FI_AC_UM_V2_WEB.pdf I ordered this generic Temperature sensor: https://www.newegg.ca/p/0X6-04KT-03WY8?Item=9SIAK7K9A26157&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_- I am also cooling a Geforce GTX 1080ti FTW 3 from EVGA

@Salticid I ended up doing 'push' configurations on both radiators. I don't have a use for my original fans right now, but I can always use them somewhere else. I know enough that increased vibrations can be cause by a-synchronized repetitive actions, ie, fans spinning at different RPM, different speed HDDs in close proximity (but im not using any of those in this build), etc. For all anyone seems to know, this could just be so minor it doesn't matter in a pc, but its not worth the potential, shorter life span, potential noise, for such small return. Thanks everyone for the input, been away awhile.

@tarfeef101 I ended up going with Mod One. I did buy a third party pin extractor, but bit the bullet for the official crimper. I tried 4 other crimpers on Amazon and one locally, and they didn't have the right 'lip' inside to really give the force needed for a perfect crimp on these small cables. There might be a good one out there, but all the ones I tried just didn't do it the same. The official tool is fantastic and I plan on getting a lot of use out of it (might even put an ad for making small (very) custom cable orders). My friends already have taken advantage of me... I enjoyed doing mine and couldn't be happier with how it made my build less cluttered. The shipping for me in Ontario was about 1 week from order date, they did send the wrong parts and some things were missing, but they fulfilled the order with rapid shipping, and gave me a deal (as I ordered some extra components at the same time).

I think you helped me a lot, and I don't know if this was the fix in the end. I essentially just re-made the cable from the ground up. My cable does have a good amount of soldered joints in it (very custom application) and i think maybe one of the joints was bad in the first attempt. Thanks for the help, and it sucks that your comment wasn't the easy fix. Guess I'm salvaging the old cable to re-use later

Do you have any other ideas, I read the information, and I even added the 3.3v line to my custom cable, and still for some reason it doesnt work with my raid. it works with every other device, and works with drive individually, i thought it was an issue of power consumption but it even worked fine with all connectors powering HDDs I have no idea what could be preventing my raid from working when using my custom cable. The voltages read out properly and nothing is shorting, the raid works normally when using the factory supplied power cable or power splitters..i dont get it!

Thanks for the info, I will review and let you know if this solved my issue, after a brief skimming i think it might just be....

I am trying to make custom SATA Power cables for my many drives and devices. I have a power supply tester and voltmeter. I have made the cables following a guide and made sure that the power goes to where it is supposed to (GRND to GRND, 12V-12V etc). I have tested it with single drives, (SSDs and HDDs) but there is just one problem...my RAID drive does not power on with this cable. There is only one thing I left out of my cable after reading some forums and that is the 3.3v line. I found out through research that this is not even really used anymore. I bought a splitter that appears to not have the 3.3v rail to test it with a cable that came with my PSU, and sure enough, the RAID works fine using the splitters that do not have the 3.3v line. But when I connect the cables I made, that also do not have the 3.3v line, it doesn't work. I'm kinda lost right now. I'm not sure why my cables aren't working ONLY with the RAID setup, they work fine with SSD's on their own, my fan hub, my AIO Pump everything, but it wont power on my RAID. Does anyone have more experience than me and can possible shed some light on this? My RAID SSDs are 1tb Samsung 860 EVOs, my custom cable has successfully powered on a Kingston SSD, another Samsung 860 EVO, a WD Black 2tb Drive, a Corsair AIO, and my case's built in fan hub.

I'm trying to learn what those headaches are to see if they are worth it or not. I want to take advantage of all the hardware I have instead of just putting the extra fans in a box and forgetting about them.

Well the other fact is the Be Quiet fans came with my case, and I don't want to just not use them, (Like i said I have the room). I doubt I would run into issues, putting it out there in case someone else has, and can give guidance

I'm looking at a 4 or 5mm thick one, the push/pull is more of an aesthetic because I have a lot of room. I just don't know if having 2 different RPM fans will create vibration/excess noise or not.

I want to setup my radiator with a push pull setup with RGB fans (maybe the corsair ml140?) on the internal side of the case (visible RGB on the inside of the case), and my current Be-quiet fans on the outer side of the case (exterior facing). I don't think this would cause any real issues, aside from having RGB (for those of us that despise it). The question being, can using different speed/pressure design fans create excess noise or virbration or work against each other in some way if i use them in that setup? Im using the Dark Base Pro 900, and would have 2 radiators in push/pull (140mm fans)

Cable management is really going to be up to you to figure out with what components you have. The biggest challenge is arranging it how you want it to look, and what makes sense. These zip ties will help you mount and route the cables. (just dont do it too tight) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-UV-Cable-Tie-Black-40-Pack-GT-100MB-40/203531951 You can use the highlighted areas on the picture to put zipties through. Linus and Gamers Nexus have some great videos on this this btw

This is a good read on the similarities and differences: https://www.storagereview.com/ssd_vs_hdd I'm sure you could find a youtube video outlining this as well as showing you how to install them, very easy!

The older style mechanical hard drives with the spinning disk. The SSDs are functionally identical and use the same connectors. So if you are familiar with the older hard drives, you will be good to go.

Depends on the case you have, I usually but small zip-ties and just route the cables where I want them to go along the back of the case. If you tell me what case that would help. I have found that CableMod has some great custom cables, and they are priced fairly well, especially if they are on sale! (not too often, holidays mostly)

With M.2 SSDs they mount right on the motherboard, 100% recommend getting one as you have room for 1 on that board. I would recommend buying a small capacity, low cost M.2 and just using it as your boot drive. Large capacity M.2 drives are very expensive. You could get a SATA SSD with larger capacity for your games, and a boot drive M.2 for less than the cost of one large M.2 SSD. Just be carefull of which M.2 you buy, read the manual for the board and see if it supports NvME M.2 drives or just SATA M.2. Not to bore you with details, the NvME M.2 drives will be quite a bit faster, and are comparable to SATA M.2 SSDs for reliability and price.