kitnoman

Lanes are just "cords and cables," essentially pathways so data can travel from A to B.  Each generation, 1.0 to 5., have different speed speed, which increasing per generation. so basically, the more lanes and higher gen, the faster data can be send. So what limits motherboard makers from adding more lanes? Several, the first being market segmentation and marketing. Simply put, they just have to make a board with lower end specs so that the higher end would be appealing. But why the high end still have a limit? Well that's because it is also tied to chipset design and architecture limitations. So they most work within the confines of the CPU/GPU' pcie allocations. Then you add size and layout on the pcb and lastly of course, is cost, adding more lanes means more controllers and switches. How much it would cost per motherboard if they add more separates lanes, switches and controllers, I don't know. But's one of the reason why you see in most motherboards, when you use all the NVME slot, either a pcie x4 or x1 or sata is disabled, since they are sharing lanes. Hope this answers some of your questions.

A few things you can try:

1 try to scroll down to check if the old E drive is still listed and remove it.

2 Boot in safe mode and try again.

3 check your registry and edit or delete it from there. But I forget path, just google it.

4 It might have been associated with removable drives, try removing and/or inserting usb drives to confirm.

5 Try to rebuild the bcd(again google for the steps).

The last time I saw 6 I/O port on a gaming GPU was on 30 series cards. I believe it was on some highend gigabyte aurus cards. On 40 series, the most I've seen are 5 and that's on the expensive Asus ROG gpus. Other than that, you would probably be looking at pro cards.

3 minutes ago, Hungry4Eggs said:

Seems decent! Although it’s $64 CAD and It would be nice to see how other mice compare at that price point.

Here's the gist of it. Almost every mice that has pixart 3395 sensor are at least around,more or less, $100usd. While almost all mice that have the same features, like the tri-connection are above $100usd(near $150-200). So specs and features, it's punching up and not necessarily losing. The brand itself is a solid, just not known for mice.

Personally, I think this is a decent mouse, Keychron M1 Wireless. It has a decent censor, two receivers(regular usb and usb c), can connect via wireless receiver, bluetooth and wired connection. Lastly it's $45.

Honestly, I would just buy a key from a 3rd party websites, like those cdkey stores, then once installed, just to to the settings to activate it.
 

But on another note that's only kind of related to this topic. My OS got corrupted and I needed to reinstall my OS. I downloaded a copy directly from microsoft  and then I modified it using NTlite, so that I can remove bloatware and unwanted settings and app before installing. After that, the usual, I created a bootable usb and then reinstalled it to my pc. I set it up so that it o that it would as me to create a local account and not prompt me to login with my microsoft account. The weird thing was that when I'm on the desktop there's no watermark. Checking the Activation settings, it says its activated. I got curious so I opened cmd and registry and found a product key that's not mine. lol now I got two.

Personally, I would suggest getting something that has more capacity. But just between those two, get the 1000VA. Although if you are gaming and consuming at around 300-600w, I don't even think it will last for a minute or two or even less than that.

1 hour ago, whispous said:

You do realise the media creation tool offers to just dump the iso, right?

And it also offers to burn it to a memory stick, exactly the same as Rufus does, and it's a completely vanilla ISO? It's been this way for the best part of a decade. If it's not working for you, your computer has a problem.

Yes I do. But as I've briefly mentioned. I don't know if it's due to my current windows having issues. But creation media tool isn't working for me. It won't complete with either options, directly creating a bootable or creating an ISO. So I needed an ISO as I will also be using NTlite before creating the bootable. But I didn't know about the rufus. Thanks for that info.

Am I the only one who did not know about this? So to start with, window 11 have a direct ISO download on their website. But for windows 10, you need to download the creation media tool. Unfortunately, mine was always stuck at 0% progress. So I contacted microsoft tech support to get a direct link for the ISO, since I couldn't remember or if it's already gone. So here's the resolution.

Originally, here's what the link would greet you.

What you need to do is to press CTRL+Shift+I or look for Developers tool in the settings. Next is to click refresh a few times. After that this is what would appear. With this we can directly download a clean ISO and use rufus to create a bootable.

8 minutes ago, Alex E said:

My budget is ~AUD$5500. 

I really want my pc to last for a long time, would it be ideal to just sell my 4090 down the line as the 5090 or 5080 price starts dropping?

What's your current system? If you are still using something right now, then yeah that's probably the best option. Also why a ryzen 9, are you doing any productivity  task? If not, then just stick with the highest x3d ryzen 7 CPU. In my opinion, it's actually better, price-wise to buy parts at quarter 4  of the year every time and not in the middle. As these are the times when rams, storages or even PSU drops in price. So the more you save on these parts, the more budget you can get on the more important once.

Depending on which specific CPU, the highest you should probably go for are RX 590,1060 6gb and those 1660/s/ti cards. You could probably get away with 2060, but it will probably get bottlenecked a bit.

If you don't normally turn on raytracing then you can go with an AMD GPU and adjust the few components so that you can max your CPU as well. 7900gre should be close and on par with 4070s.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor  (€400.00 @ Amazon Italia) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (€42.90 @ Amazon Italia) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-P Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (€135.79 @ Amazon Italia) 
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL38 Memory  (€99.74 @ Amazon Italia) 
Storage: Silicon Power UD90 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (€74.98 @ Amazon Italia) 
Video Card: PowerColor Fighter OC Radeon RX 7900 GRE 16 GB Video Card  (€594.04 @ Amazon Italia) 
Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case  (€45.46 @ Amazon Italia) 
Power Supply: Asus Prime AP-750G 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  (€92.43 @ Amazon Italia) 
Total: €1485.34
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-10 16:12 CEST+0200

Personally, I would probably buy a windows key from vipcdkeys for around 15-20USD. But as for something you can upgrade after 5yrs, what you really need is an AMD. If you go with intel, the highest you can go is a 14th gen and from 13600k, the next best upgrade option that won't break the bank  if ever is a 14700k. But those won't improve gaming performance that much. You can also use 64gb ram as depending what you will do, you might need more ram than a normal gamer.

Intel

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor  ($575.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  ($84.55 @ ExtremePC) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 D AC ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($368.99 @ PB Technologies) 
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 CL34 Memory  ($402.71 @ Paradigm PCs) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($286.35 @ PB Technologies) 
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Video Card: PNY VERTO OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card  ($1139.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Case: Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case  ($78.99 @ PB Technologies) 
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($169.00 @ Computer Lounge) 
Total: $3334.59
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-10 20:57 NZST+1200

AMD build is probably not better in terms of productivity, but it will do and you can probably upgrade in 3-5yrs for a 1-3generation higher than 7000 series, depending on how much AMD will be generous with us. But what's important is that, if you upgrade to 8000 or hopefully ryzen 9000 and 10k gen(f their kind), will have performance uplift compared to 13th to 14th gen upgrade that you will be stuck with if you choose to go with intel now.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor  ($569.00 @ Computer Lounge) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  ($84.55 @ ExtremePC) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard  ($335.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 CL34 Memory  ($402.71 @ Paradigm PCs) 
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($286.35 @ PB Technologies) 
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($115.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Video Card: PNY VERTO OC GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card  ($1139.00 @ 1stWave Technologies) 
Case: Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case  ($78.99 @ PB Technologies) 
Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 ATX 3.0 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($169.00 @ Computer Lounge) 
Total: $3294.60
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-10 20:59 NZST+1200

So I've been using this specific OS from the beginning. Started as window 7, upgraded my PC, then upgraded to windows 10 and then upgraded my pc again. I've cloned this from a hdd, to 2.5ssd to nvme. As I've used this same OS on multiple systems, I've used at least 4brands of motherboards across my upgrades. Technically, it is still working, it runs my my games and programs.  But right now, I'm unable to open microsoft store or run apps that's been installed through it like, calculators, open pictures natively, etc. It might be the profile, but I'm unable to create a new one as the options are greyed out or won't open. As I've used this over the years, I've edited the registry and uninstalled several apps(bloatwares) that can't be disable or uninstall thru normal means. I've probably tried everything to fix  this and the only thing I haven't tried are reset and reinstalling the OS. I personally, haven't use reset before, but have read through it. So if I choose reset and keep my files, it should reset all settings to default, uninstall app/games, keep my files across several drives and remain windows 10 pro, right? Would reinstalling a better solution(but probably takes longer)? I imagine it would be longer since I would have to save a backup to all my files first.

It shouldn't be the PSU. Why? because it would either work or not work. Other issues, is when it's still working but the PSU fans does not, so the reason why the system shutoff is due to overheating. So unless it's that, shouldn't be the PSU, as it does turn on. Because the only time a PSU overheats due to it's fan not working is when it has a high load and can't cooldown. While the other times, it would not just work anymore. Also, you tried it on another system and it work. So yes, you could use a better PSU, but it shouldn't be the problem for this.

So you mentioned you tried 1 ram stick, just to be sure, have you tried using the other stick? But personally, it could be the motherboard. You can try to check the CPU pins. When you leave it on. Did you notice if the CPU heats up or remains cold? Plus if the PC keeps on cycling, normally, I would just leave it for a minimum of 30mins and even of up to full hour. If it's the CPU, the LED would be stuck on the CPU LED light and not really cycles. So I'm more incline to believe it's the motherboard with this one. You can try to replace the CMOS battery from the other motherboard. You can borrow another 1700 motherboard and check. But even if it works after using another motherboard, it's hard to pinpoint the issue, much less fix  it, unless you have tools. If it's still under warranty, I would suggest to immediately borrow a CPU or motherboard or both.  

I'll probably start with the one below. If you are near a microcenter you can get one of their bundle. Just know that 7700 and 7600 are very identical in gaming performance, same with 7700x and 7600x. And the non x and x variant are not very far apart.
 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($179.00 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  ($33.90 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock B650M-H/M.2+ Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  ($99.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: Silicon Power Value Gaming 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory  ($94.97 @ Amazon) 
Storage: MSI SPATIUM M371 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  ($59.99 @ MSI) 
Video Card: ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 7700 XT 12 GB Video Card  ($399.99 @ Newegg) 
Case: Deepcool MATREXX 40 MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($44.98 @ Newegg) 
Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart BM3 850 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  ($79.98 @ Amazon) 
Total: $992.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-08 01:53 EDT-0400

Well GPU voltage and even usage would really fluctuate depending on how much load or is being utilized. There are more than one reason why you are having this issue. During these dips, did you notice what's the GPU and CPU utilizations are? 

Just going by what you provided, you can try to lock the gpu voltage and frequency using afterburner. So it would consistently run at the same clock and power.

I mean I bet that the drop in power also means a drop in gpu utilization. So the next question is, what are these specific games that's having these issue and during what part of those games? At what resolution are you playing those games at? What happens to the CPU utilization when this happens? How much vram is in use? What other application are running in the background when this happens? Have you already tried to use DDU and reinstall gpu driver and made sure all drivers are updated?

Every time I see people finding a computer or even a just a usb, I always say never touch it or the very least, don't connect it to your home network or if usb, don't plug it on your main pc or anything that's connected to a network. If it's a pc, use a different storage to boot it or reinstall the OS once you learn it's working, before connecting it to your home network. Bringing in a potential nefarious device is basically a physical trojan horse method. 

4 minutes ago, Patss said:

Whats a good white ATX AM5 motherboard that isnt over 200$$$? Also whats a good white power supply with white cables?

 

I think think there's one. Without discount, the best thing you can hope for that's below $200, are ASRock B650M Pro RS or Asus PRIME X670-P or ASRock B650E Steel Legend. But those got black pcb. But Gigabyte B650 AORUS Elite ax ice is slightly above $200.

ddr(number) ram stands for double data rate random access memory. Meaning it transfers twice per clock cycle, so that's 1333x2=2666mhz.

If anything, I'm seeing that it's using a very loose timings, which is 19-19-19-43. Since it's using hynix, try using a tighter timings like 5-15-15-35 or 16-16-16-36.

Use file sharing. You just need to turn on both devices. Just google the steps or guide for file sharing between mac and windows pc. As long as both are under one network, you would be able to transfer files between devices.

11 minutes ago, cbass-of-the-sea said:

• AMD FX-8350 8 Core 4 GHz CPU
• SAPPHIRE NITRO Radeon RX 480 8GB GDDR5 GPU
• 16 GB DDR3 Kit and a much older 8 GB DDR3 Kit
• Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P ATX AM3+ Motherboard
• Corsair CX600M 600W 80+ Bronze Semi-modular ATX Power Supply
• Corsair Carbide Series 500R ATX Mid Tower Case

Creative? Hopefully. Fun? Could be. Useful? Depends! If you already have another pc and you just want to do something with this, why not use it as an arcade emulator? All you really need is monitor or an old crt and a joystick. You probably need a few skill or at least watch videos on how to make an arcade cabinet. But I guess if there's any fun to be had, it would start with building, designing and painting the cabinet.

Probably around this budget:
 

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5500 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($93.75 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M K Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($84.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($32.97 @ Amazon) 
Storage: TEAMGROUP MS30 512 GB M.2-2280 SATA Solid State Drive  ($33.99 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: Gigabyte EAGLE Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card  ($160.00 @ Amazon) 
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($39.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Thermaltake Smart 600 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply  ($44.99 @ Amazon) 
Monitor: MSI G244F 23.8" 1920 x 1080 170 Hz Monitor  ($104.00 @ MSI) 
Total: $594.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-30 04:56 EDT-0400

Or go with an APU

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700G 3.8 GHz 8-Core Processor  ($172.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M K Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($84.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($32.97 @ Amazon) 
Storage: TEAMGROUP MS30 512 GB M.2-2280 SATA Solid State Drive  ($33.99 @ Amazon) 
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($39.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: MSI MAG A550BN 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply  ($44.00 @ MSI) 
Monitor: MSI G244F 23.8" 1920 x 1080 170 Hz Monitor  ($104.00 @ MSI) 
Total: $512.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-30 05:03 EDT-0400

But it would be hard to convert the pricing as it isn't one to one, when talking about price from one region to another.

 

You might want to check an AMD build.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  (€202.95 @ Megekko) 
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (€35.90 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-P Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  (€127.95 @ Azerty) 
Memory: Patriot Viper Venom 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory  (€108.84 @ Azerty) 
Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive  (€75.42 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Video Card: XFX Speedster SWFT 319 Radeon RX 6800 16 GB Video Card  (€403.00 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Case: Phanteks XT PRO ATX Mid Tower Case  (€59.90 @ Amazon Netherlands) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic G12 GM 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply  (€88.85 @ Azerty) 
Monitor: ASRock PG27FF1A 27.0" 1920 x 1080 165 Hz Monitor  (€139.00 @ Azerty) 
Total: €1241.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-03-30 03:17 CET+0100

26 minutes ago, remo233 said:

Gpu temp itself does not go above 73 degrees. Hot spot in the high 80's can peak in the 90's but usually stays in the high 80',s.

What's the brand and actual model of your 4070s? GPU temps vs hotspot temp, on average have 10-15c difference. Meaning if the gpu temp is around 65c, then hotspot is 75-80c. If the cooling solution and thermal pads are good, it could be lower. While vrm temp should be around 5-10c higher than gpu temp on average. However, if the differences are higher than those. You might want to check your thermal pads.

Personally, what I would do is first install afterburner(if you haven't yet). Then regardless of what gpu or hotspot temp is, I will set fan speed to manual and at around 70-80% fan speed(even 100%). If the vram is cooling down, it doesn't mean that the issue is already resolved. It just means that the fan curve is following the gpu temp/hotspot. Since those two aren't as hot, the fans are also not ramping up. But it will still just a band-aid solution. I would suggest googling to see if there are other people with the same make and model having thermal pad issue, because that might explain what's going on with your gpu. You can also check how much power is being feed to the gpu and try undervolting.