max1220

Still nobody?

Anyone? Anything?

I remember back in the days, when mice still had balls, and if you didn't clean them often enough, your were getting wieredness... Retarded joke aside, this isn't the issue. We've tried different mice. Seems to be no hardware problem

Actually, we didn't thought of that. Unfortunately, this wasn't the Issue Thanks anyways. (Edited the post, so everyone can see what we've tried so far)

A friend of mine currently has some issues with his mouse. His problem is that after he moves his mouse, the position of the mouse sometimes gets reset to a previous position. I asked some of my friends, and so did he, but no one seem to have an answer. See video below for details(He talks in german, but you can ignore what he says; The glitch is pretty obvious.) v=T2qHW0iu4gs A quick google search by me didn't found anything related. Any ideas,fixes, etc welcome! What we've tried so far: - Changing Mice(Is that the correct plural of Computer Mouse?) - Installing, reinstalling, removing drivers - Restarting - Unplugging graphics tablets, etc. - Changing the mouse surface(Mousepad/Pants: Same issue ) (Sugessted by DigitalHermit) Nothing worked so far

I'm sorry to disappoint you, but creatorscast isn't even NEAR YT's size. That they got 720p/60fps is cool, but no bigger content creator is going to switch for that! There is no real pressure to YT to do this, at least not from them!

My favorite part about the phone would probably be the Gigantonormouse screen & resolution! Having a MicroSd card slot it great as well, I got some spare ones, and a phone without a slot for them Good luck everyone

Are you getting an IP like 169.xxx.xxx.xxx? Those are Windows's fallback IPs, when Windows cant't get an IP from the Network. Usually, that means that your card & your drivers are OK, but the Network settings are wrong(Probably DHCP), most likely on the router. (The powerline kit should be "invisible", and not manipulate traffic in any way, so should the switch) Try to access your ISP's router using another notebook directly, and set it to DHCP, if it isn't.

Yeah, it should work that way. If you have trouble, I found this thread really helpful: Link!

I think you can't re-partitione the only drive in windows, while running. Try burning PartedMagic to a CD, and change the partition using gparted, so you don't need to copy all the files again. If you get problems with the Windows Share, or wiered problems with networking, try: sysprep

Friend got 12gig RAM, and installed an old, 32-bit cracked Win 8. He HAS BOUGHT A FUCKING PRO LICENSE, WITH A x64 BIT DVD WITH THE PC! Why would anyone install x32 cracked then?!

If your drive is just partitioned in MBR, it should work out-of-the-box. If you plan on using the MBR for booting(Non-EFI boot), you need to adjust those settings in your BIOS. Usually under bppt, called boot mode or something. Change this to legacy. If it's disabled, try searching for fast boot(Or similar) and disable it. Then you should be able to boot using MBR.

Well ,if you've got a really fast connection(Or buy one for cheap from Google ) you could sell Servers, VPS or Webhosting. You could also youn the LTTF Folding team, I guess ;D

I think, usually its through the ground line of the electric wiring where the data goes over...

How-to monitor your temps, etc, and save it to a file. Create a script with the following content(Modify to fit your needs, should be self-explaining ): #!/bin/bash LOGPATH="/mnt/some-hdd/some-log-folder" FILENAME=$LOGPATH/log-$(date +Y-%M-%d--%H-%M-%S) sensors &> $FILENAME #If you want to save all the logs from /var/log to a .tar archive, uncomment the line below.(Use with care, logs might get big!) #tar -cf $FILENAME /var/log/ sync and save it somewhere. This script saves the output of sensors to a file, named by time & date, and syncs the HDD(Sync forces Linux to write the cache contents to the HDD.) Now do: sudo crontab -e and add this line below: */5 * * * * /path/to/script This will execute the script every time the minute counter is cleanly dividable through 5(Every 5 minutes). In the logpath you should see your logs appearing Feel free to modify the script to do whatever. This should help you debug anymore problems you've got.

Midori

I used Windows and OS X. (Also Linux, but let's just ignore that...) I prefer Windows over OS X, since you can do everything you want. Gaming __or__ Creative work. I don't know a single OS X peace of software, which couldn't be replaced by a Windows counterpart. I think we could left that part out of the comparison. If you want your system to look like you want to, if you wan to to change stuff in it(Not just hardware, Windows desk modding, for example...), or just play the latest games, Windows is the way to go. Some people say OS X is more secure. While there are less Viruses for OS X, it's far away from invulnerable. Also, most infections on PC's are through misbehavior of the User. If you pay a little bit attention on what you're doing, you should be fine! My conclusion is use Linux use Windows, if you've got at least a bit of a clue what you're doing. OS X might be great, if you're a content creator, got no clue of computers, don't want to game, and just want it to work. If you've got the time to use Windows, you not only can save some money, you can also game, or modify your OS, at least a bit. And if you've got Problems, you most likely got a larger community that can help you. One last note: I have used OS X for a while on my 2nd machine, and even though it worked just fine, I found myself uninstalling it after only 3 months. This was quite a while ago, and I don't know, how relevant my Information is. Please correct my, if I said something, that isn't correct(anymore). For my personal needs, I almost always use Linux for my stuff, except for gaming, for which I use Windows.

Maybe still try to monitor system voltages... A simple screen + watch ( sensors + time + pipe into random named file + sync ) Should do the trick If you see some voltages spiking/dropping before the crash, it might be the PSU. Also, if someone gots a better solution to monitore the voltages, tell pls! My old, cheap-ass PSU is giving me creeps, I would like to have a log of my Voltages as well!

FYI: Grub and LiLo are both Boot loaders. A bootloader is a Software, that, after you turn on our PC, gets loaded first from the HDD. It's responsible to load some basic parts into the RAM, and start it. The "normal" Windows bootloader stays hidden, you don't see it usually. Grub or LiLo is the Linux counterpart. If you install your PC with only Linux, they stay hidden as well. But if you have Windows still on a separate Partition, Grub or LiLo, when started, so after the BIOS, give you the Option to boot either Windows or Linux. I don't really see the point in creating a separate partition, this isn't UEFI If you could post the Log of the Installer, we might know more, and might be able to help solve your problem. (Grub/Grub2: Grand Unified Bootloader) (LiLo: Linux Loader) In modern systems, you actually don't use Grub anymore, it's Grub2 what you're using. The Old Grun is usually called Grub-legacy. LiLo is more a failsafe, and way less Flexible than Grub.

Well, Debian has a pretty minor RAM footprint. But with 512MB you won't get to far with Tekkit. You might be able to run a normal Minecraft Server for 2-6 players. I wouldn't recommend puppy Linux for A Server. Debian is just more optimized for Servers.

Well, most routers have a function to disable internet for a specific MAC address on a specific time(At least my old Modem/Router had, I now have a router with OpenWRT). You wouldn't even need to get the stick *laziness overload*

I allways must laught, when I see people in country's where they have that bad Power delivery... I live in Germany, and the last time power went off in my City was years ago. A friend of mine runs a Server without a UPS, it has an uptime over 2 years now.

Can you tell me where exactly Grub fails? Does the Installation Fail, or the Booting after the Install? Ubuntu Versions newer than 12.04.4 don't support PC's without PAE. If the Setup fails, you can view the Install log on one of the VT. Just press [CTRL]+[ALT]+[F4] (If F4 dons't work, try F2, F3, F5, etc), and post the relevant parts of the Log here. You can go back to the Installer with [CTRL]+[ALT]+[F1]. Using Ubuntu 12.04 isn't a bad option either, it works great. I like the LXDE flavored version, Lubuntu. Mint seems to be great as well, but it seems to use a PAE kernel as well, since mint 13...

Wouldn't i make more sense to configure your router, so it does that(MAC Adress whitelisting, maybe 802.11x?)? If your son really wants Internet, he could go to the Next store, and buy a cheap Wifi USB dongle, you wouldn't even notice...

Do you have any old parts? Old Case, PSU, Motherboard, RAM, CPU, anything? For 300$(Even €, you wrote no currency), it will be pretty hard to build a PC on which you could Play BF3 or 4. If you want to try, take a look at AMD APU's, since you don't need to buy a Graphics card. Not sure how good they run BF though...