Ruenzuo

I've successfully installed two versions of Windows 10 in my Surface Pro 7 (Windows 10 and Windows 10 Insider Preview Build): C:\WINDOWS\system32>bcdedit Windows Boot Manager -------------------- identifier {bootmgr} device partition=\Device\HarddiskVolume2 path \EFI\Microsoft\Boot\bootmgfw.efi description Windows Boot Manager locale en-US inherit {globalsettings} isolatedcontext Yes flightsigning Yes default {current} resumeobject {4aa5e3d1-50b7-11ea-9e2b-c594e267064c} displayorder {current} {3db0d6df-3e41-11ea-bd64-fe4246294ac9} toolsdisplayorder {memdiag} timeout 60 Windows Boot Loader ------------------- identifier {current} device partition=C: path \WINDOWS\system32\winload.efi description Windows 10 Insider Preview Build locale en-US inherit {bootloadersettings} recoverysequence {52dc06bd-50f8-11ea-bb28-a1b76ce5d3f5} displaymessageoverride Recovery recoveryenabled Yes isolatedcontext Yes flightsigning Yes allowedinmemorysettings 0x15000075 osdevice partition=C: systemroot \WINDOWS resumeobject {4aa5e3d1-50b7-11ea-9e2b-c594e267064c} nx OptIn bootmenupolicy Standard hypervisorlaunchtype Auto Windows Boot Loader ------------------- identifier {3db0d6df-3e41-11ea-bd64-fe4246294ac9} device partition=D: path \WINDOWS\system32\winload.efi description Windows 10 locale en-US inherit {bootloadersettings} recoverysequence {b7922fa3-05d9-11ea-bd91-ffd33e19a0f0} displaymessageoverride Recovery recoveryenabled Yes isolatedcontext Yes allowedinmemorysettings 0x15000075 osdevice partition=D: systemroot \WINDOWS resumeobject {3db0d6de-3e41-11ea-bd64-fe4246294ac9} nx OptIn bootmenupolicy Standard As far as I can tell, everything looks fine there. Now the problem is that when I boot the computer, the display is off during the Boot Manager OS selection (the blue screen where I am supposed to select the OS). The keyboard input works, so if I press DOWN + Enter I can boot up Windows 10 and if I press Enter I can boot up Windows 10 Insider Preview Build. Any idea why the display is off during the Boot Manager OS selections screen?

@Nayr438 awesome news, I'll check that. Thank you!

@Corsair Nick Hello Nick, just a ping after almost a year. Is there any update about this? I am curious if Corsair stand on Linux has changed or if there are any news. Thanks a lot.

2020 upgrade: New desk. Second monitor for PlayStation debugging. More RAM and added 3 more Corsair LL120.

Thanks for the information Nick. Yes, it's a H150i Pro. Good to know that there's firmware settings to protect the system, although like I mentioned before I won't be using the Linux partition to play video games or any other intensive task. I really don't want to set the fan speed to a fixed RPM in Windows because I am super happy with the setup there, and my current workaround of booting Windows before Linux is sort of working right now. It'll be great to hear from the iCUE software team if Linux support is in the roadmap, doesn't even have to be a GUI, a CLI + service that configure the fan controls through USB would be awesome to have there for users like me that have a Linux partition as second class citizen in the system.

Thank you for this, it looks promising. Someone has already reversed engineering the USB protocol, I could spend some time myself implementing a Linux app to control this or contribute to the OpenCorsairLink project if it doesn't have the features yet. As you saw already, the fans are controlled by the Commander Pro and I have no intention to move this to the motherboard, I am super happy with the iCue software on Windows. Honestly Linux is sort of a second class citizen in my computer right now. I mainly build this computer for gaming, I just put there Linux to give it a try, I mostly use my laptop for programming and other stuff that requires the Linux kernel. I have no intention to game on Linux or similar, so for now even the workaround (booting Windows to set the values to the fans and then booting Linux) is kinda okay. I'll report back when I try what you suggested, probably this weekend.

Same, I really don't think this is in WINE's project scope, but I could certainly give it a try. Thanks for reminding that!

Sorry, I forgot to mention that 6 fans are controlled by a Corsair Commander Pro, the other 3 are controlled by the pump, so the motherboard doesn't really know about any of them (I had to disable the CPU fan check on the motherboard to have a successful boot). The computer controls all the fans through USB, both for the pump and the Commander Pro.

I recently put together my first computer: so I decided to add a Linux partition for everything non-gaming related. This computer has 9 fans, all Corsair (6 LL120 and 3 ML120), and everything works great on Windows using the iCue software, I can control the fans speed and lighting, but on Linux the lighting and fan speed is set to the default hardware values. iCue allows me to update the lighting default hardware values (stays after reboot) but not the fan speed, which defaults to something around 800 rpm as far as I can tell. Having 9 fans at 800 rpm makes the computer too noisy if I am not using headphones. I've managed to workaround this by booting Windows first, letting iCue change the values (I use 600 when not gaming), then reboot in Linux, but I'd love to either: Update the default fan speed values, or... Control the fan speed values on Linux. I'd honestly prefer option 1, so I can have everything on Windows. Has anyone had this problem before? Any known solution to update the default fan speed values on Windows or Linux?

That's good to know, thanks! The temperatures are after 30 mins of The Division 2 maxed out at 3340x1440@120Hz.

A few months ago I decided to put together a computer. I've never actually done this myself, and I was surprised about how "easy" this is, as long as you're willing to educate yourself with the vast amount of resources available online (LTT, Jayz, GN). Anyway, here it is: Here's what my cable management looks like: (I swear it's very tidy behind that back plate, I swear...) I am planning on getting some cables from CableMod next month to improve a bit those dangling cables. I swear the **only** defect the Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic has it's the length of the USB-C front side internal cable, it's too short and not L-shaped making it impossible to put it in place if you decide to put fans in the bottom. The hardware: Intel 9900K Gigabyte RTX 2080 Ti Gaming OC ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero Seasonic Prime Ultra 1000W Corsair H150i Pro Corsair Vengeance 16 GB 3200 Corsair LL120 x6 Corsair Commander Controller I am very happy with the build overall, the Corsair software makes it very easy to control the lighting and the fans speed. This is what the system looks like during 30 mins of The Division 2 maxed out at 3340x1440@120Hz CPU and GPU clock speeds seems fairly stable, no thermal throttling as far as I can tell. GPU clock: 1890~1950 Mhz GPU temperature: 77 degrees. CPU clock: 4.7 Ghz CPU temperature: 65~70 degrees. But I feel the temperatures are a bit too high? I have the bottom and lateral fans as intakes and the top fans (radiator) as exhaust. Anything you would recommend to get better temperatures or do you think this is perfectly normal? I'd like to overclock the CPU of course, 5 Ghz, but first I'd like to make sure my temperatures are normal.

This pre-built computer uses two of these just to be clear:

I thought about this..., I mean the setup looks fairly standard, if you see in the pictures to top 8-pin goes directly to the GTX 1080 so I know the one has the right volts for the 8-pins in the RTX 2080, the question now is if the 6-pin is any different... aren't this connectors standard in an ATX motherboard? I definitively don't now right now. I have two 230W, one exclusively for the system and the other for the GPU, that's not enough for a RTX 2080. I was planning to replace both with beefier ones, say 330W. Also keep in consideration that I removed the HDD and the DVD drive so the system is using less power than it was designed for already. You mean like a multimeter? I haven't touched one since university but that's a good idea.

Not sure if you read through the whole post but those are regular ATX power supply, the computer I am talking about is a pre-build Acer Predator G1-710, it gets power from two external power supplies of 230W each, power goes directly into the motherboard. I attached pictures.

Hi folks, hope this is the right place for a topic like this. I bought a pre-build computer a few years ago, an Acer Predator G1-710, specs are: Intel Core i7-7700 Chipset Intel H110 16GB DDR4 NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Power supply are external (laptop ones), two 230W I'm not a hardware expert at all, so please feel free to call bullshit anything I might be saying wrong and correct/teach me I already did some modifications to this computer, removed the DVD drive, removed the HDD and replaced the SSD with a 1TB Samsung EVO. Now I'd like to upgrade the graphics card to a RTX 2080. I know that the GTX 1080 requires a single 8 PIN power connector, but the RTX 2080 requires 8+6, so I need an extra 6 pin power connector available in the power supply. But the power supply doesn't have any connectors, it goes directly into the motherboard: And the graphics card receives the power from the motherboard, as you can see here: Now, there's a 6-pin available there, just what I need, but according to the manual: It's a system power connector, so I'm not sure if I can take power out there? I also suspect the manual is just wrong and the label 18 should say AUX power 6-pin connector. So my plan is going to be: 1. Replace GTX 1080 for RTX 2080 2. Get a 6-pin connector from that free port to the RTX 2080, + the 8-pin already available there for the GTX1080 3. Replace the GPU power supply (DC-in jack 1) with a beefier one So my questions are: 1. Does this have a chance to work or I got it all wrong? 2. If it does, how can I find a 300W power supply to replace that 230W? what are those called? Thanks a lot for the help folks!