Zarquan

It still crashes with minimal services. I booted it in Ubuntu and ran some things on it and it crashed as well, so I doubt it's a Windows problem. I would love to find a way to determine why it is shutting down.

I opened up my computer after it randomly shut down when just having a web browser open and picking it up. I found that the OS SSD screw was loose and the battery cable may have been routed incorrectly, but other than that, I found nothing obviously wrong (as a layperson). The battery occasionally disconnecting could easily cause this kind of problem in my mind. If this is the cause, I think this might not be the cause because the battery connector did not appear to be loose, but I rerouted the cable anyway. I don't think the OS drive disconnecting would cause this kind of problem, as I think that would just lead to the computer freezing, but if anyone thinks that could be the cause, maybe it's fixed. The last thing I saw that was weird was the wifi antenna cables just seemed to be floating around and aren't secure. I didn't see an obvious way to route it, so I just left it there. I don't think this would cause this problem as they are not conductive, but if anyone thinks this could cause it, I could try to secure it. EDIT: Nope, it still crashes.

I will give it a try. I think this could easily be a hardware issue or a heat issue, but how can I fix a problem if I don't know where it is.

Is this the same as the Event Viewer? It says code 6008 with no obvious details.

I have an MSI GE76 Raider with an RTX 3060. Recently, it has started spontaneously shutting down hard, straight to a black screen. From my experience, this is usually caused by overheating, but I had HWiNFO logging for a crash and none of the tracked temperatures appear to be high enough to trigger a shutdown. Is there a good way to find out what is causing my computer to shut down so I know what to fix?

I have a portable USB C monitor with 2 USB C ports for power and video input. If I have it plugged directly in to my laptop, it works with one cable handling power and data. I send data to it using a bidirectional DisplayPort to USB C cable, meaning I need to provide power from an adapter using the other port. It works, but I don't like that I am using both USB C ports simultaneously, as if either one were to die, I would no longer be able to use the monitor. Is there a way to add power to an unpowered USB C cable? Or one that takes DisplayPort and Power as inputs and sends both over one cable to the monitor?

Then it should still be under a different name. I saw it was on sale, so I looked at video reviews of it and bought it because it did everything I wanted (except charge while running). I confirmed that they were the same headphones by clicking the link at the bottom of the review. I then purchased the headphones, only to find that the most important ANC feature to me was arbitrarily removed without any mention of a change. If they can't make the old better headphones, then they can't. But they should say that and make it clear by making a new listing and a new name. With that, how can I trust a company that will arbitrarily remove important features after the review cycle? How do I know that the sound will be as good? Are the drivers the same? Is the ANC as good? How about the microphone? Will it support the same codecs the reviewer said? Is the build quality the same? Is the padding the same? Is the plastic as good? I won't know until I want to use it in a certain way I expect to be able to use it and it says no. One thing I don't know is whether they pushed "firmware update 2.30" to existing headphones or if it is just the new ones that have it, as according to the forums, this firmware version removed the wired ANC. If they did this to existing headphones, that is even worse. When they reduced the feature set, they invalidated the entire review process. I have no idea what other features are missing on these headphones, as things that I expect to be there simply aren't there. I can't trust Anker's products to do what they say they will do anymore, nor can I trust reviewers will have accurate information, as the information might change. I would like to point out, the new Q35's, released in April 2021, do have this feature (as far as I can tell, at the reviews say they do, but those have been proven to be worthless with Anker). People started complaining about this feature missing around that time. This makes me think intentional sabotage.

To be clear, here are a few youtube reviews from release: https://thetechnologyman.com/anker-soundcore-life-q30-review-best-anc-headphones-under-100-vs-tribit-quietplus-and-taotronics-tt-bh046/ Linus did a Short Circuit on it, but he didn't mention Wired ANC. Here is a verbatim response to an email I sent to Soundcore about this (questionable grammar and all): "To make sure the stable Bluetooth connection, the original chip manufacturer close the ANC feature in the wired mode. In this situation, there is no access to use the ANC mode when using them via the aux cable now. Sorry for the disappointment." Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is essentially a nonsense reason, right? Why should I ever rely on an Anker product again if they are going to arbitrarily remove core functionality after the review cycle?

According to reviews and people online, it could use ANC while wired, which is why I bought it. Generally anyone who bought it before approximately March or April could use ANC while wired. Now, it can't.

Anker took one of their devices and removed a vital feature that makes them worth purchasing. When I am traveling with another person, I generally use an AUX splitter so that we can both watch a TV show together on my tablet. I decided after a rather nasty flight that noise cancelling headphones were probably a good idea. I watched and read release reviews for Soundcore Q30 headphones and found they had everything I wanted except the ability to charge while they are being used. So, I purchased these headphones and I was disappointed to find that this feature was intentionally removed by Anker for no apparent reason. Apparently, they either made a new release of the Q30 headphones and listed them under the same listing OR they released a firmware update that disables the feature. Coincidentally, these issues started popping up online about the time that Anker released the Q35. I find such practices to be wholly unacceptable. I see it as a major company straight up scamming customers and (if the firmware update explanation is correct) sabotaging their own products so that people will buy the newer version. How are we supposed to trust Anker to sell products with features we require if they are willing to arbitrarily remove them down the line?

I recently started playing a game with a large number of abilities. I like to have all my abilities usable from my left hand, so I use a lot of hotkeys with modifiers like Alt+4. This revealed a problem with my computer. The built in keyboard appears to have no better than 2 key rollover. There are many combinations of keys I regularly try to press that I can not and it is negatively impacting how I play. This problem persists in to my Linux dual boot, so it is not a Windows or game problem. Here are a few examples of key combinations that do not work: W+Shift+F2 D+Shift+4 D+Shift+F4 A+Shift+F1 W+Ctrl+2 S+D+4 W+D+F2 There are many other cases involving Ctrl and Alt, but those are harder to reproduce in a text editor. As you can see, these are all over the place with the movement keys. If you press any of the three keys above at the same time, the last key is not registered until you release one of the other keys. This can lead to me not casting my life saving abilities randomly, where I can't tell whether I just pressed the wrong button or it was a bad combination. Was I not allowed to use my parachute because of where I am or something I did, or was I trying to move forward while I was trying to parachute? Can I not use my big AOE, or was I just moving right? From what I understand, this means that this keyboard only has 2 key rollover. I find it hard to believe that a recent gaming laptop would have such an obvious problem, as I keep stumbling on these things and dying. Does anyone know if this computer only has a 2 key rollover keyboard? Or is my computer defective?

A while ago, I asked about a laptop interface for a desktop computer so I could use the computational power of a desktop from my couch like a laptop because I don't want to use a desktop monitor or sit at a desk. I now know that this would be a lapdock. Unfortunately, all the lapdocks I see are focused on portability to be used with a phone. I was wondering if anyone was making a gaming lapdock for a desktop with a high refresh rate screen and a decent port selection? Ideally, such an object would have the following features: At least 144 Hz variable refresh rate screen Good keyboard Decent speakers (they don't have to be great. Laptop speakers would be fine.) Enough USB ports out for a mouse or other peripherals (I would want at least 4) Headphone jack HDMI out for a potential second portable monitor (not for gaming, I would like to work from this setup too). Basically, I want it to be exactly like a laptop without the computer part. In my mind, there are a lot of advantages for a setup like this versus a gaming laptop if you want to game on a couch. Desktops are simply a lot more powerful than laptops of the same price. This also places the hot components would be far away from me rather than on my lap. I wouldn't have to worry about covering vents. Of course, I lose portability outside my area, but I have a gaming area anyway. Ideally, I would have cable runs so I could plug in my lapdock all over the house, but that is a little too ambitious for now. Also, since this always seems to come up when I talk about this, I don't want to use a TV because I don't want my gaming or work to take over the room.

I should try that. The store I got it from ~6 months ago told me that it probably couldn't, but it's worth a shot. It would be slightly more convenient. But my intention is to play the movie on the computer and connect the computer to the TV with HDMI. This is something I can already do, but I want to know if I am missing out on video quality if I do it this way. I believe I will not need to use both my computer while I am watching movies. My TV is a smart TV (Roku). Are you saying that a bluray DVD player does not add anything to the actual experience of watching BluRay DVDs compared to running it from a computer with a bluray disc drive?

I have an external Blu-ray DVD drive I have for my computer (low end gaming computer) that I can use to play Blu-Ray DVDs on my computer. I was wondering if there was any benefit to getting a Blu-ray player for my TV if I already have one for my computer if I am willing to leave my computer hooked up to the TV.

Thank you for your responses. True, I could do that. But these enclosures are a bit expensive, and the CPU would still be a mobile CPU. I would consider this to be an acceptable solution, but the thermal problems would still be there, albeit with a smaller effect. I also don't know of any laptops with 120 Hz screens that aren't expensive gaming machines. I certainly agree with the not very ergonomic on the looking down. That's why I feel the hinge is important. I think this is a hole that could be filled. I can't be the only person who wants to use a desktop like this. See, I know most people want to have a desk setup, but I really don't. I like couch gaming, and I get a headache with desktop monitors. I hold my head too rigid when I am using them. I think the people I am living with would object to hydrolics being applied to the coffee table. In my mind, wireless display is optional and maybe even not desired. It would give more local portability (meaning movement within the room). I would need a power cable though, so I would still have a cable coming out at least sometimes. I would rather avoid streaming services because that would rely on the router. I would rather not have the basic functionality of my computer rely on a router. Though if I did do streaming, I would be able to put the tower itself somewhere else and run ethernet. I did a price check on the basic components and I think I could build one out of components for around $300 (US) for the basics. The idea is that I take a dead laptop or an empty laptop chassis with a good screen, get a good screen (hopefully a 120-144 Hz) and an LCD control board, put in a USB keyboard where the old keyboard was, and a USB C hub. I would probably also add scaffolding on the inside because an empty laptop is probably less structurally sound. I didn't do a price check on speakers or a mic because I don't know that much about them. Unfortunately, I am not that crafty, and there are a lot of variables, so I wouldn't know how to do it.