domchu

Hi all, as the title states, I've been experiencing shutdowns only when my system is idling/under light load - it has never happened during heavy loads. Every time it crashed, I would launch event viewer and it would always show 'Kernel-Power 41 Task 63', and at this point I've lost count. This has been happening ever since I upgraded from an RTX 2060 to a 3080 and I've never had this kind of shutdown in the 20 months I've had my 2060 before. I've seen many forums where people had experienced this kind of problem, and many believe the PSU is at fault, which is possible but in my case, I doubt it. I've been using my new PSU (from be quiet! DPP11 to Seasonic TX1000) for three months before I upgraded from a 2060 to a 3080 which is when the crashes started occurring. I've reset Windows 10 twice and it still happens, I don't know whether its a software or hardware problem since it continued after two full system resets. I don't have much else to say but I would appreciate a solution to this problem, and if any of you are experiencing the same issue, feel free to voice your situation in the comments.

Sorry I just realised I quoted my initial post instead of edit, ignore the first post.

Purchase a new case and power supply and move the existing system into the new case and re-wire it. Or Purchase a new power supply and leave it outside of the case. Or Purchase a graphics card rated 150 watts or below.

1 - You should re-paste your CPU and GPU when you're thermal throttling pretty much all the time when the system is under load and it hasn't happened before, whether or not its non-conductive thermal paste or liquid metal. Only do this when you're 100 per cent certain its due to ageing thermal paste. From personal experience, I build my desktop 20 months ago with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and its still going strong. I've noticed that CPU temperatures were a few degrees higher than when I initially built it, but it could be due to room temperature and dust build up on the heat sink. I'm not planning on re-pasting my CPU. I did however re-paste my RTX 2060 with Kyronaut a week ago and temperatures have dropped 5 degrees Celsius in Time Spy Extreme, even though my GPU was running at perfectly fine temperatures, manufacturers often use lower-quality thermal paste than one from Arctic and Thermal Grizzly. 2 - I have never used liquid metal before so I cannot give a direct answer but a re-paste on a GPU with high-quality thermal paste like ones from Arctic and Thermal Grizzly will noticeably reduce temperatures, like i mentioned in my previous answer. You can also try undervolting which is quite easy if you watch a tutorial which will reduce temperatures and fan speed while maintaining the same clock speed or even higher clock speeds than before. My GPU temperatures dropped 7 degrees Celsius on Heaven Benchmark from undervolting. 3 - I recommend installing 'CPUID Hardware Info' and 'MSI Afterburner'. HW Info is just an overview of your entire system like GPU/CPU temperatures/load/clock speed and fan speed etc. MSI Afterburner allows you to undervolt your GPU like I mentioned in my previous answer and it allows you to toggle an in-game overlay of GPU/CPU temperatures/load/clock speed and fan speed etc. You'll have to search up the maximum operating temperatures for both your CPU and GPU models to determine whether your hardware is operating within those temperatures using HW Info and MSI Afterburner.

Hi everyone, Earlier today I installed two sets of three fans using two EKWB 3-way fan splitters onto my ROG Z390E Gaming motherboard: - 3x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed (0.16A / 0.37A safety current, 1.92W) as intake. - 1x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM High-Speed, 2x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 140mm PWM High-Speed (0.14A / 0.5A safety current, 1.68W) as exhaust I'm confident that a single fan header can power three fans, they even ran at full speed without fail for a few seconds when I was playing around with BIOS settings (I run them at quite conservative speeds normally), the total amperage of three fans don't exceed the 1 amps a fan header can supply. However, I have some concerns: 1 - on be quiet!'s website, they list the 'safety current' which is 0.38A and 0.5A for the 120mm and 140mm models respectively, which combined well exceeds 1 amp. I'm not sure what exactly 'safety current' is, and i haven't been able to find much information. 2 - I've seen a bunch of Reddit threads on the same topic where people say that fans use 'more amperage when starting up'. Which isn't very specific since it would either be: they start up using their maximum operating amperage (which would be fine), or they exceed their maximum operating amperage for a brief moment. Again, I don't know. I've been able to run my PC normally after the installation, the fans start up as normal and they are all operating normally. I'm just making this post as a sanity check. Any comments explaining concerns 1 and 2 would be greatly appreciated. - Dom

I just checked the weather, turns out its 37C outside so a couple of degrees above ambient is my CPU temperature then. Maybe I should check a reliable weather news source before coming up with conclusions but thanks.

I uploaded the correct screenshot so you should have another look. I know max values are caused spikes in CPU usage but I'm more concerned about current temperatures but thanks. That is if the UK weather stays tolerable.

Sorry, it was the wrong screenshot, I uploaded the correct one now...

I use a Dark Rock Pro 4 and I noticed that my idle temperatures were around 37-41C which is very high since just a couple months back it was 30C and lower. I live in the UK and its currently 32C and its probably the cause of the high idle temperatures. I cleaned my PC an hour ago so dust isn't a problem, I have two intake and outtake fans so ventilation is fine and I use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut so heat transfer is also fine. The side panel has been removed so that makes it even more concerning. *Edit* I just checked the weather and, turns out its 37C and not 32C which means... ...turns out there's no problem with my idle temps. Thank you for all the replies.

All of buttons and left and right click are glossy-plastic and the side grips are rough but i don't think they have a rubber coating. But I doubt oil from my fingers will do anything to the glossy parts but I'm very certain the side grips will become shiny over time ? I've heard that the bottom of some corsair mice wear pretty badly due to the rubber-material moving on the surface of the mouse pad.

Yeah I think I have hard dirt as well but mine accumulates daily ?

Ever since i bought a Corsair M65 Elite White, solid sweat stains appear on both left and right buttons and on the sniper button as well. I can tolerate this, it just requires cleaning with a microfiber cloth. Who else has this problem?

So I built a PC under a month ago and ever since I've been flipping the wall switch every time after I shutdown the PC. I'm starting to feel like this is pointless and that I should just leave the wall switch on instead of having to reach down and flip the switch on, which happens everyday since I'm always on it and shutting it down before i go to bed. The RGB ROG logo also lights up whenever power is being supplied to the PSU even if the PC is off which is a cool added bonus.

I have little knowledge on monitors that are within your price budget but I recommend the MSI Optix MAG241C. - 23.6 curved VA panel - 144 Hz refresh rate - 1ms response time - 3000:1 contrast ratio Its a great monitor, I'm using one right now but its out of your budget since its £179 in the UK so I assume it will be more expensive if you're in the US.

Cooler is a Dark Rock Pro 4, ambient temperature is 20 degrees (guessing) and both fans are running at full speed (1200 and 1500 rpm). I'm using an i7 8700 non-K. Would you say these idle temperatures are good for the cooler I'm using? I've read half a dozen reviews on the DRP4 and they have been getting idle temperatures from 25-27C whereas I'm getting 29-30C. XMP is disabled and ram is running at 2133 Mhz. - Dom