TsanakJim

This is an accompanying guide for our recent video trying out Pi-Hole.
 
Note: Image links will be coloured like this: https://google.ca 
 
 
Parts List:
Raspberry Pi (any model) We will be using a Raspberry Pi Zero (https://lmg.gg/8KV3n) - $5 You can optionally install Pi-Hole in a docker container, or inside a VM, but we will be assuming you are using a Raspi for the rest of this tutorial. Micro SD Card (2gb+, but you should probably just buy a 16GB card because they're so cheap) We'd recommend a cheap SanDisk card (https://lmg.gg/8KV3k) 2.5A Micro USB AC Power Supply You can get these really cheap on eBay, but we aren't making any promises about quality. AdaFruit has a solid one: https://lmg.gg/8KVm8 *Optional*: Micro USB to RJ45 Ethernet Adapter This is in case the RasPi you are using doesn't have an ethernet port or WiFi (if you're using the Pi Zero, you will need one of these) *Optional*: Other stuff that you might need: SD/uSD Card Reader (Unless your laptop, or you already has one) Ethernet Cable (Unless you're using WiFi, you will need one of these) Case for your Raspberry Pi Model (Nice to have to keep it protected, but cardboard also works) Heat sinks for your Raspberry Pi (Nice to have to keep it cool, also helpful if you want to overclock your Pi) A display connection for your Pi (Pi Zero's use Mini HDMI) (We will be doing a headless install, so this is not necessary)  
Stage 1 - OS Install/Setup:
Before we can install Pi-Hole or anything else really, we have to setup our operating system of choice: Raspbian Buster Lite (stretch also works) Download and unzip the "Raspbian Buster Lite" image from the Raspbian website: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/ Download and install balenaEtcher, our uSD card writer/burner of choice: https://www.balena.io/etcher/ Plug in your uSD card Launch balenaEtcher, select the Raspbian Buster Lite image, your uSD card, and then click Flash. (https://i.imgur.com/GMSZj8Z.png) If you're doing a headless install like us (no monitor/keyboard required), you'll need to enable SSH before booting up the Raspberry Pi Replug your uSD card to allow Windows to recognize the new Raspbian partition layout You should have a lettered drive pop up marked as "boot" (https://i.imgur.com/4ar0ih3.png) If you don't, ensure your uSD is being detected in Disk Management (https://i.imgur.com/ZPmyyz6.png) Then assign the partition a drive letter: https://lmg.gg/8KVm6 Create a file inside the "boot" folder called "ssh" with no extension (https://i.imgur.com/KDyB4nc.png) If you don't know how to make an extension-less file you can download it here: https://lmg.gg/8KVmb Plug your uSD card into the Raspberry Pi followed by networking, and then power. Since we're doing a headless install, we'll need to search for our raspberrypi's IP address so we can access it over SSH. If you know what you're doing, log in to your router's admin page and check the DHCP client/reservation list for "raspberrypi" If you don't know how to do the above, download Angry IP scanner and run it: https://lmg.gg/8KVmS Look for the hostname "raspberrypi", on that line the IP and MAC address of our Raspberry Pi will also be listed: 10.20.0.77 in our case (https://i.imgur.com/lK2ce0R.png) Now that we've found our Raspberry Pi's IP address + MAC Address, we need to assign it an INTERNAL/LOCAL static IP address. This process is going to vary wildly based on which router/DHCP server you use, so we'd recommend Googling your router's model name/number (can be found on the back) + "how to set static IP" (ex: "Netgear R7000 how to set static ip"). If you're willing and somewhat tech savvy, you might also be able to figure it out on your own. Start by navigating to your router's admin page. The IP for this is typically located on a sticker on the back of your ISP's provided router (along with the admin page's default username and password), but you can also find it by running the command "ipconfig" in command prompt on a Windows PC. Your router's IP will be listed after "default gateway" (https://i.imgur.com/S2Ndc0w.png) Log in to the admin page either with the Iogin credentials listed on the back of the router, or by googling the model number of the router along with "default password". Some routers use a randomly generated default password, so googling will not work for those. Once logged in, look for a tab labeled "DHCP Reservation", "Static IP Assignment", or something along those lines. (https://i.imgur.com/FeMjd4V.png) You may have to go to the Advanced menu to access this. (https://i.imgur.com/6l4kIqH.png) Enter the MAC address we grabbed earlier with Angry IP scanner, and then enter/select your desired static IP address (make sure you're using something not taken by another device on your network). (https://i.imgur.com/znUTbKv.png) Hit Apply (or whatever the equivalent is for your router)  Re-plug the power connection for your Raspberry Pi, to allow it to restart and fetch it's newly assigned IP. To access the Raspberry Pi over SSH we will need to download and connect to it with an SSH client Download, install and then launch the SSH client of your choice. We will be using PuTTY because it's simple, but any SSH client will do: https://lmg.gg/8KVmQ (https://i.imgur.com/POLV3i4.png) Enter the newly assigned static IP address of your Raspberry Pi into PuTTY, and click "Open" (https://i.imgur.com/BegMcKC.png) After it prompts you with "login as:" enter "pi" (https://i.imgur.com/jfULCu5.png) Then for password, enter "raspberry". You should now be logged in over SSH.  (https://i.imgur.com/Q058Sbw.png) Now that we're logged in over SSH, start by changing the default password, and updating the Raspberry Pi. To change the user password enter the command "passwd" and press enter. You'll then be prompted to enter the current password (this is "raspberry" so enter that) Then enter your desired new password To update the Raspberry Pi, run the command "sudo apt update" - this is going to update the package list to tell us if anything needs to be update. (https://i.imgur.com/ECpLG93.png) Then, to actually upgrade the packages now that the package manager knows which ones need updating, run "sudo apt upgrade -y". (https://i.imgur.com/EYfDhkC.png) Our Raspberry Pi is now updated, set to a secure password and ready to install Pi-Hole onto!  
Stage 2 - Pi-Hole Install/Setup (this is where the tutorial portion in the video starts)
With our RasPi's OS, internet, and SSH ready to go, we can now install Pi-Hole.  Copy the Pi-Hole install command from their website, paste it into the SSH client, and click Enter to run it: https://lmg.gg/8KVm9 (https://i.imgur.com/P20CP2I.png) The installer will spit out some status updates until you're brought to the configuration screen (https://i.imgur.com/t0DHzHo.png) Press Enter until you get to the "Choose An Interface" page. The default "eth0" interface for Ethernet users should be selected by default. Press Enter to continue. ("wlan0" should be selected if you're using WiFI - keep in mind WiFi installation is not supported in this tutorial, but if you have some decent Google-Fu you should be able to figure it out) On the next screen, select your upstream DNS provider. This is where requests will be forwarded if they're not blocked by Pi-Hole (ie. if they're not found in it's block/black lists). We will be using Google DNS, and if you don't know what this means, stick with that. Press Enter to continue. The following screen allows you to select which of the default block list's you'd like to use. We will leave these all on, but you can use your arrow keys and space bar to (de)select any of them as you wish. Press Enter to continue. Next up, it will ask you if which IP protocols you want to block ads over, leave this at the default unless you know what you're doing. Press Enter to continue. The next screen will list the IP address of the Raspberry Pi and the IP of your router, assuming you've set a static IP, just click Enter to continue. If you get a screen about an IP conflict, just ignore it and click Enter to continue. You'll then be asked about the web interface, web server, and logging modes. Leave these all at default by clicking Enter. After all that, Pi-Hole is going to do a bunch of stuff, and it might take a couple minutes so sit back until you're greeted with an "Installation Complete!" page. This will list the IP and password for the Pi-Hole web interface. Copy the IP into your browser, and log with the listed password. Huzzah! You now have a functioning Pi-Hole installation    
Stage 3 - Setting Up Pi-Hole to Run on Your Devices / Whole Network
To enable Pi-Hole on a device-by-device basis, you'll need to manually set the DNS IP address in your device settings.  For each of these, substitute the IP in the tutorial for the IP of your Raspberry Pi How to set DNS on an iPhone: https://lmg.gg/8KVmw How to set DNS on Android phones (your phone manufacturers skin may slightly vary): https://lmg.gg/8KVmh To enable Pi-Hole on a Router level, meaning it will work on all your devices automatically, you'll need to configure your router's DHCP server's default DNS settings. This process is going to vary wildly based on which router/DHCP server you use, so we'd recommend Googling your router's model name/number (can be found on the back) + "how to set DNS servers" (ex: "Netgear R7000 how to set DNS servers").  
Stage 4 - Using Pi-Hole + Common Whitelisting
To enable some common whitelisted false-positives run the command listed here: https://github.com/anudeepND/whitelist For some great info on the Pi-Hole web interface read the lower portion of this tutorial: https://www.smarthomebeginner.com/pi-hole-tutorial-whole-home-ad-blocking/#Configuring_Your_Router_8211_Whole_Home_Ad_Blocking 

Does this project use GPU like FAH does? OpenZika is only using my CPU for now, and I want to make sure I have it set up right.

that's not entirely true
PC will work just fine but the RAM bottleneck and infinity fabric bottleneck will become very apparent

Something wrong with the microphone. Because it sounds like freakin MG42
 
Here's the other sounds example.
 
 

I want to play a gag on my co-workers, we are getting new keyboard at work, these *supposedly* ultra quiet ones, and I want to change mine out with something super noisy.
Know of anything really loud?

Tehehe i hope so xP

Shopping for a mouse is very simple.
You find a mouse that suits your budget and personal preferences.
But why there are so many mice out there with Laser and Optical sensor? High Dpi? and use different Optical or Laser sensor such as PMW3310/3360/S9800?
And why there's gaming mouse anyway? Can we just buy a regular mouse and use it for everything?
For casual gaming you might be fine with it but if you're a serious gamer. Especially competitive player, Then you will need a gaming mouse.
Why? Because the sensor you found on general optical mouse won't be able to keep up with your hand movement and will fail you in the end.
Many professional FPS player can move their hand at around 2-3m/s and because of this they need a sensor that can keep up with their speed and these sensors are usually found in gaming mice.
That being said doesn't mean you won't need a gaming mouse if you are just a casual gamer. Having a great sensor and features such as tons of buttons for macros or MMO is nice to have.
 
Contents :
1.General Terms
2.Optical Vs Laser Sensor
3.Mouse Dpi/Cpi
4.What Makes a Good Gaming Mouse?
5.Popular Gaming Mice Sensor (pros and cons of each sensor)
6.What To Look And What To Ignore?
7.Mice Recommendation
 
Before we begin I must remind you that there's no such things as a perfect mouse. Because everyone has their own preferences.
You don't always have to buy the best mouse. It may have the best sensor, the best build quality and the best feature but what if it doesn't suit your hand or grip style? You'll end up feeling uncomfortable when you use it for a long periods of time.
That's why people tend to find a mouse that is perfect for their hand and grip style. They often sacrifice sensor performance and features but only as long as the sensor is good enough for their needs.
But again, everyone is different! Some people might prefer performance over comfort and vice versa.
So a good mouse is a mouse that will suit your budget, your hand and general preferences. You don't always have to buy the best mouse.
And I apologize if there's any grammatical mistakes because English is not my primary language.
And if somehow there are some mistakes in this thread then please correct me and I will update the thread because I am no expert and people make mistakes.
 
 
1.General Terms
2.Laser Vs Optical
3.Dpi/Cpi
4.What Makes a Good Gaming Mouse?
5.Popular Gaming Mice Sensor (Pros and cons)
6.What To Look and What To Ignore?
7.Mice Recommendation
There you have it.
Feel free to ask me anything about this guide and if if happen to miss something, Let me know!
I am Etna and thank you for...uhhhh Reading my Guide i guess? Yep.
 

Thanks so much for joining. My vision is a community based on positive member interaction and helping each other. I believe that if we all work together toward this goal, we will have success in the long run.
We don't have official forum rules or anything like that yet, but as long as everyone is respectful of each other, and patient with the growing pains that we are going to experience (vBulletin 5 is VERY beta right now) we can make this into an AWESOME community forum.
Linus

how is your soldering skill and how comfortable are you with just "yolo-ing" it?
The plastic shroud is only for structural integrety and alignment, you can take it off if you are careful of directions when plugging in the broken cable, if it works just tape it together and never touch it in the hope that the tape holds it well enough in place so it doesnt fall out.
 
Or try an rma on the case/mobo

Really? I can't delete my own post? That's pretty dumb.

Well THAT'S your first mistake lol

1070 ti because it has more vram

Couple of things. Before anyone should help
 
 Your title is misleading, you're saying that you're doing a a guide an overclocking guide Your post lacks information. What problem are facing? Add more information..

You can play with the numbers here https://notkyon.moe/ram-latency.htm Makes little to no difference in gaming, some difference in workstation tasks varies depending on program

Download RWEverything from here. Be careful how you use this program as exception handling is poor meaning BSOD is easily achieved with wrong input.
 
Click first button, "PCI Devices" and select "SMBUS Controller"

 
Double click on the dword at Reg 0x40 and check bit 4 is set to 0.

 
If it's not zero then SMBUS SPD writes are disabled so either a BIOS mod is required or the SODIMM needs to be programmed externally, example here
 
Some SPD chips have protection from writing to the first 128 bytes, if it's hard set then the SPD chip will need to be changed out, if soft set then usually a special voltage needs to be set on one of the SPD chip's SMBUS address select pins. Need to check relevant SPD chip data sheet.
 
Other option is to program an XMP profile which comes after the first 128 bytes but XMP will need to be selected in the BIOS.

If external programming then any mistakes can easily be rectified by reprogramming and of course before doing any programming a backup of the SPD data should be made for each module by simply reading the data into a file.
 
If programming in SITU then only use one SODIMM first. If it's bad it can be replaced with the unmodified SO-DIMM to POST and then usually the bad SO-DIMM can be inserted as it is usual for the BIOS to remove power to the empty slot but you need to check to be certain this is the case. The Bad SO-DIMM SPD can still be accessed and reprogrammed.
 
Find out how to do a CMOS reset and check that it works before you change anything.
RWEverything can also be used to program SPD data.

FWIW Personally for my Core 2 Duo laptop I programmed the SPD simply because it was hardware modified to run BCLK at 333MHz instead of 266MHz. The RAM needed to be adjusted for the higher clock or it would not post. By doing it through SPD there wasn't any problem if a reset occurred. That laptop did many hours and still works today. My Haswell laptop had an option to enable hidden settings without a modified BIOS although I modified the BIOS anyway. At the time I bought it, it had only one DDR3L SO-DIMM and DDR3L was hard to find locally at the time so ended up with 2 SO-DIMMS from different manufacturers but timing was much the same. I used the BIOS settings to increase from 1600MT/s to 1867MT/s and it's been working fine like that for the last 5 years.




 
If this is your BIOS then these are the options it contains including the hidden ones. IFR.zip
 
You might find this thread interesting but whatever you do always have a recovery plan and part of that means taking backups before you start modifying. You can get some good advice as to what to do by posting on Win-raid.com.
 

I wouldn't call Fortnite the most demanding game. My AMD A8-6600k and GTX 960 2gb even managed it for somewhat tolerable framerates. 

Those claims supporting "up to 4K@60Hz" are not "true" HDMI 2.0 switches.
4K@60Hz requires merely 12.54 Gbit/s which will not saturate the full bandwidth of HDMI 2.0 at 14.4 Gbit/s. 1440p@144Hz, however, requires a bandwidth of 14.08 Gbit/s, which is nearly the full capacity.
The root cause is the IC within the switches. They usually use the cheap and mass-available Texas Instrument HD3SS215 series (and its derivatives). They only partially supports HDMI 2.0 standard, since they are designed to handle 60 Hz signal at max, not 144 Hz.
A proper high-end HDMI 2.0 switch is needed for 1440p@144Hz switching. I remember seeing one at a website with a hefty price tag of near a thousand USD.
Alternatively you can try getting a validated DisplayPort 1.2 switch and use an adapter for HDMI output. Level1Tech has one that is capable of handling 1440p@144Hz.

144Hz on HDMI is....difficult.
You need a monitor with the newest HDMI spec, a cable for that spec, and a GPU that can do 144Hz on HDMI. Even then, its not guaranteed to work. DP and DVI are your best options for 144Hz, DP is the best since it can better handle higher resolutions.

I see they've been learning from Apple.

I would personally say no, the whole point of a Ryzen 5 2600 is to save money... this processor hardly is temperature limited too, the only reason I can think on spending on it is for sole aesthetic appeal which to me feels a waste of money, rather spend it on a Ryzen 7 or for more silent operation.
 
Have in mind the Ryzen 5 2600 stock cooler is years better than any Intel stock cooler ever made.

I did a R5 2600 + 1660Ti build for one of my friends, it outperforms my 2600x + 1070 system. But now I have a 2080, so not anymore lol.
Yea, as long as he doesn't want above 60fps, I don't see him having many problems. 1440p he might be able to get 120hz, maybe.

It definitely is not the normal trend haha.   I told him if he stays at 60fps, then almost all modern CPUs can handle it with relativity no issue. Thats when he pumped more money into the GPU. Initially it was going to be a Ryzen 2700x and GTX 1660 Ti build. Which is kind of another mismatched pair to some extend. Though, I still think for $80 dollars more, getting a Ryzen 2600, would have been more future proof! 

I'm not saying he made a bad choice, or that he can't get 60fps, etc, etc.
All I'm saying is that he made a strange choice.

Intel has higher clocks, yes. Intel has higher single thread performance, yes. 
 
Unless you get 9th gen, Intel CPUs don't have a soldered IHS so your thermals are much worse than if you go with AMD. Ryzen also has pretty damn good multi-thread performance, so Intel isn't the greatest choice if that's what you need.
 
Then there's price. The i5-9600k is ~$250, while the R5 2660x is ~$183. idk about you, but the slightly worse performance is a good tradeoff for the amount you save (that you could put towards a nicer GPU); plus, the 2600x has double the threads of the 9600k. Their clock speeds are pretty damn close as well, and you can OC to easily make up the difference. When it comes to gaming, both are going to be performing pretty similarly; depending on how the game utilizes the CPU ofc. 
 
And fyi, the 2200G has more than 8 PCIe lanes. In fact, it has 12. The "PCIe version x8" on the AMD product page means that its max bandwidth is PCIe x8, not that it only has 8 lanes. 

Welcome to the land of CPU bottlenecking.
 
Seriously, the 2200G is a little weak for a 2070. If he was playing 4k, I could maybe see it; since you are more GPU bound at higher resolutions. I wouldn't be surprised if he got a sizable performance bump if he put a 2400G or 2600 in there instead.
 
Not saying its bad, just that this pairing is wonky.