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Ronath

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About Ronath

  • Birthday Sep 28, 1987

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA

System

  • CPU
    i5-9600k
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Z390 Pro 4
  • RAM
    G.SKILL Aegis 32GB (8x4)
  • GPU
    XFX Radeon RX 580 8GB
  • Case
    DEEPCOOL TESSERACT SW
  • Storage
    240 SSD (boot), 2T HDD (main), 4T HDD (vault)
  • PSU
    SeaSonic 620W
  • Display(s)
    MSI MAG241C and MAG240CR
  • Cooling
    FSP Windale 6
  • Keyboard
    Amazon Basics
  • Mouse
    G903
  • Sound
    Sennheiser Game ONE Gaming Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Ronath's Achievements

  1. I'll try switching cables around tomorrow, though I hate the idea because right now I have one "perfectly" functional monitor and I've had them black out for hours previously. As for reinstalling drivers that's redundant. This has been an issue for 30+ driver versions, two versions of Windows (and a couple fresh installs) over several years. I'm fairly sure this is hardware, not software.
  2. Radeon RX 580 with MSI MAG240CR and MAG241C monitors via DisplayPort (Win 11, Intel i5-9600k, 32 GB Memory, ASRock Z390 Pro 4) This has been a constant issue for me for a long time, but it's not consistent and it has a new feature to it. Basically when I play a game I get black screens. They last a few moments and then the game continues as normal - actually the game is continuing as normal during the black screen, I just can't see it. This only happens during gaming, not video playback, and while I think of it as happening for more graphically intensive games, it can happen on relatively simple games. I do have two monitors and AMD Software says this can happen with multiple monitors if you have Enhanced Sync enabled - which is why I haven't had that enabled in ages. In that past I've gone periods were it doesn't happen at all, periods where it happens constantly, and periods like right now - it's only happening on the MAG240CR, which is the "better" one with higher refresh rate (165 versus 144). I had to switch which is my primary monitor and it will occasionally black out while I'm playing on the MAG241C. I just moved so everything got unplugged, packed, replugged in, so it occurs to me that maybe this is as simple as a bad displayport cable? Where maybe I grabbed a different cable for the currently working monitor, or it's now unkinked or something so it's working perfectly? Could I have fixed this annoying issue I've been dealing with a new $10 cable?
  3. So I've been debating for awhile what's the issue with one of my monitors. It's an MSI MAG 241C and about two years old. First concern: It's color is very off from my MSI MAG 240 CR that I bought a year later when my old second monitor died, but I just decided that it's just silly to think that two MSI products would have remotely similar color profiles. Second concern, that should have been the first, it doesn't understand that the computer is asleep. The monitor may (or may not) turn back on while my computer is asleep independent on whether or not my computer woke up. Even now that I turn off my PC nightly, it has to 'turn on' to turn off about 30-60 minutes after I shutdown. This has been an issue since purchase. Third concern: when hit with a heavy load, such as a AAA game at whatever settings my RX580 can struggle to with 100fps, the screen eventually crashes. It doesn't shutdown and my computer thinks its still on. It used to my primary display, but after a couple of rounds of trying to tug a game to the other monitor sight unseen, I switched it. It still crashes, even when it's not running the game. It has occurred it might be an issue with the GPU or the Display Port its in, but I've been avoiding those games to a degree because of this issue. (also FAH runs fine at medium (with me doing other thing normally) without issue which makes it seem like maybe it's not a GPU issue) Fourth concern: A distortion has appeared on the screen. About two inches across, just under an inch tall, Almost could be something that fell on it, except that if something leaned against it and cause that much of a mark would have fallen off my desk and moved the monitor (and probably taken something along with it) and it's right in front of the HDMI cable - because it serves double duty as second monitor and Switch dock (aforementioned issue 3 had not yet happened with the Switch and I've definitely played long enough for it). The distortion is not too noticible depending on what's on the screen (more visible on a black screen than watching video) and doesn't have a physical feel to it. Is it possible that I have a short or some component is overheating inside the monitor and now damaging the LCD?
  4. When my 580 was glitching out, stuttering, flashing black screens, I blamed literally everything but the card... turns out it was a lemon. Just didn't realize it until one day it finished popping whatever circuit it was slowly frying.
  5. I don't see them mentioned often but cooling pads/fans do work. While anything that can lift the laptop to provide extra cooling helps, the ad hoc solutions can be difficult to transport. I'd say if you want to game with your laptop they can really help. I think the one I have claims it can reduce the temps by 20 degrees with all fans on full in a temperature controlled room. I haven't used it as much recently since mine usually spikes at start up then drops to more reasonable temperatures.
  6. Fallout 4 tends to be buggy on PC. Runs okay at 1080p with a 580. But people are going back and forth on 1080/1440p when OP was asking about 1080p. A 580 can run at 1080 usually at 75-100fps for me on high settings, sometimes higher if I'm lucky. I don't hit 144fps on anything but the simplest/older of games. In fact, I think I have the monitor they're looking at. Works well enough for the hardware.
  7. It wasn't on, but I did choose poorly when trying to give the card power - I had it inline with the fans at first and that didn't work out, but it didn't power up completely before I realized it wasn't going to work. Just tried removing the USB card - had no effect. Front I/O give me nothing but the usual dirty static (and Windows shows that there's something in the plug Rear jacks had been working as of about a week ago Pulled card, no effect Not a sound card, just the motherboard - ASRock Z390 Pro4 Headphones work fine via my laptop and via the passthrus on the monitors. EDIT: reinstalled the usb hub and now connecting the headphones doesn't cause those ports to show up as sound output options. Makes me think there's a loose something on my motherboard. the usb card is five inches away and there's a GPU between that I/O and anything I touched
  8. So the subject line says it all. I seem to have randomly broken my audio jacks. I installed a USB PCI-E the other day, but all of that was miles away from my audio jacks and these are my rear jacks - switched a few weeks ago because the signal to the front I/O was too dirty. Didn't notice at first because I tend to use (extremely cheap) speakers when I'm not gaming and they connect through my monitor, where as my headphones use the rear I/O. The question is: have I forgotten some really simple fix for this? I've updated the drivers (realtek) to most current - and the older ones that were out of date when I got my motherboard, I've tested the headphones on both my laptop (and on this machine via my monitor - but it doesn't have a mic input). It shows up that its plugged in, it's just not playing any sound. If they are borked, are the $20 usb "sound cards" I see on Amazon going to give me decent sound, or should I invest in something better?
  9. Part of the reason they stopped doing the fabrication videos was because without the proper tools the results were garbage (well, recyclables). They did some modding that turned out well, but what they want to do requires a lot of precise measurements. I mean, they want to water cool a RED camera, did you see how tight everything is in that video? Everything for that will have to be custom made. And they've hinted they might expand their content to more maker type things.
  10. My understanding from when I got mine (such a learning curve building my first PC) that PCI is better since you aren't limited by the top speed of the USB. Not that you're likely to be hitting that 5/Gbps that USB 3.0 (or the 480 Mbps from 2.0) via wifi, but why risk it? Also, I absolutely had a free PCI-E 1x while I never have enough USB ports. Spent $30 USD, but I'll likely never replace it on this computer
  11. Sounds like a good deal. Worst case you upgrade your CPU later.
  12. Have you tried American DJ? This is pretty much their market. The model I used before is discontinued but the 64B LED Pro and the Mega Par Profile Plus look like they have the interface. They can be set to run to sound, set manually to a static color, or hooked into a lighting console with DMX for full control, and that goes for most of their products. I also see Lumilum has some DMX controlled strip lights but those look expensive (and do not come with the required DMX controller that must be bought from them?) .
  13. I need to replace my monitor, its just time, both from it dying and it not being capable of matching my upgraded PC. But due to upgraded PC I don't have a lot of money to spend on it. I've been checking on sales and have seen this 24" curved Acer on Newegg, there's a promo code bringing it down to $150. That price sounds good, but I've never used a curved monitor, would it even be worth it on a 24" screen?
  14. Another thing to think of, I'm sure that plugging in the adaptive controller into a PC you can use it as an alternative to a mouse - or at least you can with a fairly simple workaround if somehow Microsoft didn't think of that. That means it can help people use computers and the internet in general.
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