atomiku

While this 1050 Ti would likely work, it is quite a bit more expensive. I was trying to keep the total money spent at <$250. A regularly sized PC wouldn't make much sense, as the whole idea behind this is easy portability. If I'm going to haul a full size tower around, I might as well just take my normal PC. Edit: Forgot link.

That is a full height card, and would not fit in the computer I linked. Please see my edit to my previous post for a picture that will hopefully explain it.

You do realize low profile is an actual specification, not just a vague requirement, right? A low profile GPU typically ships with two plates to go on the back of the card, a longer one for a normal sized expansion slot, and a shorter one for a half-height expansion slot. There isn't "fairly low profile" there is "low profile" and "regular" cards. Edit: Pic to aid in explanation

Can you get a low profile, single slot 470? If so, link?

I'm just curious how this would stack up. I have a much more powerful PC that I use daily, but as a LAN rig meant for portability and esports games (DOTA and CS) and maybe the occasional AAA adventure game, would this be pretty decent? This HP Prebuilt Office PC with an i5-2500, 8GB of RAM, a 500GB HDD and Win 7 + This Low Profile, Single Slot RX 460 from MSI.

Haha, Linus used my post in the WAN show from this past Friday, don't I feel special!

That is the CES 2017 WAN Show, and it should link right to the part where Linus tells Austin they have a mutual acquaintance who offered Linus double sticker price to steal him/her an Acer Predator 21x, which seems funny and like a neat anecdote during the live broadcast. Fast forward to now when we know that someone with a penchant for prototype laptops either A) has sticky fingers or now possible B) has the kind of scratch to pay someone to do their thieving for them and it seems a lot less innocent right? All joking aside, I'm sure these two things are entirely unrelated, but the police are for sure going to talk to Linus, right? I find it hard to believe that someone who actually intended to steal expensive items from CES would share that intent with an internet celebrity, but it's one of those things where it would be practically negligent for the cops not to at least look into it, or am I way off base? Either way, this coincidence gave me a chuckle, so I thought I'd share.

This thing is sweet. Last time I looked into short throw projectors, a 1080p model was well over $5000USD, it was ridiculous. The fact that they have brought it down this far in price AND made it so effective at such short ranges is pretty cool.

The pump is running at the same speed it has since I bought the cooler, 2200 RPM, which I think is the speed it's supposed to be at. My stock cooler is currently on my roommate's computer (his 6600k didn't come with one) and all my friends are using theirs for their own computers, so unless I wanted to take an old cooler from a prebuilt I tore apart (read: they don't have anywhere near the cooling capacity for something like a 4790k) I'm sort of out of luck.

So, long story short, I have an H100i (not GTX) cooling a mildly overclocked Intel Core i7-4790k. When running at 4.6Ghz and running Aidi64 extreme, I encounter thermal throttling within the first minute. If I run it at stock, it still ends up thermal throttling, just takes a little longer to get there. Is there something wrong with my setup? The reason I'm asking this is because my buddy's computer was built recently and uses an H110i GT, and he has been very pleased with it. What surprised me was that when his CPU is being pushed, it never tops 80, and you can really feel the heat coming through the radiator. By comparison, when stressing my CPU, I get to the high-90's, then thermal throttling keeps my temps in check around there, but when I place my hand over the radiator, I feel plenty of air coming from the NF-F12s (which are running pegged at 1300RPM constantly), but it's not particularly warm. In fact, it's hardly warmer than room temp (about 25-30C). I'm well out of the warranty on this cooler, so returning it isn't exactly an option, but I was already planning an upgrade, should I fast track that? Is it possible one of the tubes is slightly obstructed, not allowing the fluid to flow at the right speed? Is there a way I can check this without opening everything up? I don't want to risk damaging my CPU, but I also feel like the fact that it never goes over 70C while gaming means it's probably not going to die on me any time soon, it's only under synthetic workloads that I thermal throttle. Also worth noting is that these temps are not unusual for this setup, I've replaced the thermal paste each time I clean the computer out (once every 6 months, so probably 5-6 times with this cooler) and usually have excellent thermal paste coverage. Regardless, temps now are consistent with temps I've gotten before with good coverage. What do you guys think?

That's fair, I suppose. I guess what I find interesting and what other people find interesting can be quite different. You mean to tell me that not everyone spends hours of their day watching multi-hour raspberry pi tutorials on projects they never plan on recreating?

Not sure if this has been suggested before, but I was shopping about for a replacement USB hub and have sort of become inundated with a wide range of products that I found difficult to compare, and only a few of them seem to mention things I actually care about. What if LTT did a series of videos where they would go and acquire a dozen or so computer or tech peripherals that, while maybe not exciting, are extremely useful (i.e. a USB Hub) and compare them on price and features. The reason I want a new one personally is that mine doesn't seem to feature full USB 2 speeds to it's ports, even if you only have one device hooked up, as I tried using the audio jack on my XBone controller and Windows complained about a lack of bandwidth, even when I unplugged everything else from hub. Unplugging the hub from the back of my computer and hooking up the controller worked just fine though. I bought a very highly rated USB 2.0 hub, but nowhere was this shortcoming mentioned, and I feel like it's something you'd only really notice through use. I feel like a video where Luke or Linus took the top 10 hubs on amazon and compared them by putting them through a barrage of tests (how many high power usb devices, such as portable harddrives will it run simulataneously, what kind of amperage is it capable of pushing out of a single port vs when all ports are under load, how much does it effect speed of devices, so on) would be entertaining and informative. This could be a recurring theme with other peripherals people might be shopping for (webcams? how well they autofocus, resolution, picture crispness, compatibility with streaming softwares, low light performance, etc) (Wireless cards? USB vs PCIe, range, speed, etc) and it would help people to decide how best to spend their hard earned money. And, while I know these product lines don't get updated as often as say, cpus and graphics cards, an update every few years would still be useful, and help fill out the schedule. Maybe this is stupid, or has been suggested, or even done (I don't think so, I've watched pretty much every LTT video made, but I could have missed a few) but I thought I'd bring it up and see what happens.

If you are concerned about temps, it's happening way to quickly for that to be an issue. I just dealt with my friends PC this morning (His H100i had a pump failure, so he put his stock cooler back on in the meantime, only it wasn't even touching the CPU) and his computer was running for a good 90 seconds before shutting down due to temps. Also, if it was a temp failure, why would it stay on indefinitely with a single BIOS set. On a side note, I managed to get it to boot, by unplugging all the devices hooked up to my internal USB 2.0 headers, which is very strange. The only things I have hooked up are my H100i, my Commander Mini, and my front USB 2 ports, so now it's time to figure out which one isn't playing nice, and why... Edit: And so after plugging them back on one by one, they are all now working, and I can boot into Windows with no issues. It's just my luck that the moment I come running to you guys for help, that's when it all ends up being okay. Not sure what I did to fix it, but I'm convinced you guys were instrumental, thank you for helping me at this ungodly hour, I really do appreciate it.

I'm not sure what you mean by "really power cycling" but the fans are all spinning up, it even gets to the point where my GPU fans stop spinning (they have that 0RPM features) and then all fans shut off, and it starts the process over.

Yeah, I forgot the mention that I reseated all the power connectors, both to the PSU and various devices. I just read my MoBo manual, and it seems BIOS flashing is pretty simple, I'm about to attempt it now. Really? I thought it was kind of common. My old setup was an i7-950 in an ASRock X58 Extreme and every time I booted it would shut down after a second and then reboot itself, straight into windows. It did this with two different power supplies, including the one I have now. Edit: Also, the powercycling issue has been fixed. I think the motherboard was responsible, as it was doing to switch between the dual BIOS. Edit 2: So I just attempted to reflash the BIOS, and I can't even get into the utility for BIOS updates, or if I am, it's not displaying. I'm not sure what's going on, but I'm thinking I'll have to try and contact Gigabyte tomorrow to get their opinion on it.