OhioYJ
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Everything posted by OhioYJ
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Meh, OEM support doesn't matter much. If it gets Lineage support it's fine in my book.
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I use root too often. I'd switch banks before I'd do that. Fortunately for me so far I've been able to hide root from everything I use.
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I assume you did the usual things like using Magisk hide and such? Its still detected?
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I assume this means it will have a headphone jack right?
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There just are no quality printers left. You know I had a huge laser printer that I bought back in (probably back in high school or shortly after) from the local surplus store that worked perfectly forever. When the huge toner finally died, I figured, might as well just buy a new printer. It's been all down hill from there. I had one that I literally "office spaced...", some that have had short life spans, and now one that "works", but only in Linux for some reason.
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thermal paste spread unevenly after delidding
OhioYJ replied to aren332's topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Did you clean the old glue off of the CPU when you delidded the first time? The original silicone will hold the IHS away from the die. It is perfectly fine to glue it back down, but you want to use a very small amount, and not glue it entirely. Here is one of my CPUs, notice it's been cleaned entirely, ready for liquid metal, no glue around the edges (contacts have nail polish over them). If you just popped the IHS off, and then tried to replace the thermal compound, and put everything back, that's another problem on top of trying to use regular thermal compound. What you do between CPU die and IHS, and what do between an IHS and heatsink are different things. -
They always touch, solidly mounted. In many cases I can only get two zip ties to mount the fans, or sometimes it's just easier to only use two mount them. The Noctua ones in the gaming machines have rubber mounts, but the Antec fans in my NAS don't have any rubber dampeners and they still don't make noise. I don't want to make it pain to remove them. It was also the easiest way to mount fans in my network rack (during the "mock up"), here you can see several of the zip-ties:
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thermal paste spread unevenly after delidding
OhioYJ replied to aren332's topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Even with liquid metal, I found there was a fair amount of variation in the results, depending on the application. There is a bit of an art form to it. Your results just won't be nearly as bad with liquid metal, compared to thermal paste, even on a "bad application." -
thermal paste spread unevenly after delidding
OhioYJ replied to aren332's topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
You used thermal paste between the IHS and CPU die. I tried this a few different ways (different pastes, and two different liquid metals) just to experiment as I don't always get the same results I see repeated around everywhere. I found this one to be true, with delidding, you need liquid metal, thermal paste at best might get you close to stock temperatures. Probably worth mentioning, I know my 7700k that I delidded I read things about people claiming it would need to be "serviced" every year or two after being delidded due to the liquid metal. This one is now over 6 years old, still no problems, hasn't been touched. It dropped my temps almost 20 degrees under load. That being said, I wouldn't do again, and haven't. Just not necessary. -
Many of my builds actually have zip ties to mount fans, as it's nice and easy. No noises, or vibrations actually. In my NAS I have fans on both sides of the drives, intake and the other side of the drive cages. The opposite of the drive cages the fans are mounted with zip-ties: My second NAS build: My current NAS, same thing, zip ties to get fans on the opposite of the drive bays: I always use zip ties to mount a 80 mm fan on the opposite side of drive bays as well in all may machines that have HDD under the PSU shroud: Note though, you can get mounts for HDDs like @Levent posted that have a FAN mounted already in the front.
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I'd say not in my case. I routinely lend and give out devices to friends and family that need them. So my devices generally find a home at some point. There's only a select few I've held onto. Oddly enough I gave away a OnePlus 8T recently with Lineage and offered to flash it back to stock for the new owner (a friend of the family who broke their phone), and they actually preferred LOS. Brought it back to be updated to LOS 21 recently.
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Only devices I own that old at this point are tablets. The answer is still no, as I own tablets that are much faster (Also running Lineage). While this varies from device to device, it's been quite a while since Widevine was even a concern. All of my unlocked, rooted Lineage devices still carry L1 Widevine certification. As for banking / payment apps, from what I've read this depends on the company. Everything I need use works. Also there are some other alternatives that may help with problematic apps? Although I haven't needed to try as usually rooting and hiding things works for me. I'll preface this with a gigantic WARNING, you better know what you are doing. However it is possible to relock the bootloader with Lineage installed.
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Lineage provides step by step instructions on installing their OS. Generally unsupported devices have install guides by the developers. Its pretty straight forward, flash recovery, flash the OS. Honestly installing Windows can be more involved sometimes. I have Android devices that are 11 years old still going thanks to the open source community.
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I ran the Define R5 for my NAS when I first built it. Quickly hit the 8 drive limit and searched for something more. Even going rack mount, I didn't found a huge selection that I liked. I ended up going with the Define 7 XL. The Define R5, removed many of the panels to make it flow air freely, and it stayed quite cool. I also modified the front panel to help make sure the front intake fans had no issue breathing: Did the same thing on the Define 7 XL as well:
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So I'm redoing, and hopefully simplifying what was my massive backup scripts for my computers here at the house. I hit this problem where the the script kept crashing for no apparent reason. However most of the commands would work on their own. I spent way too much time trying to figure it out before it dawned on me, I was was trying to reference variables that hadn't been defined... They originally would only get defined if you selected options that needed those variables. Whoops.
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You might try booting up into Linux using a live distro like Mint (using a USB) and see if it works there. That would indicate help decide if Windows is the problem or now. It should just work if your BIOS is detecting it. I still use optical drives in everyone of my machines, and they just work, Linux and Windows (10 and 11). You don't have any missing drivers like chipset drivers or anything do you?
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Few more details needed. This is an internal optical drive? Does your BIOS recognize it? Some motherboards some SATA ports are disabled with some drive combinations (like SATA M2 drives). Was this a new drive? Has it ever worked?
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I mean I understand why some sellers would want a signature, I'm not unreasonable. I just know I would never ship some one a package requiring a signature without contacting them first. Odds are they may want it shipped to their work, or a neighbors house, somewhere there would be a person available to sign for it.
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AITA... So I have this pet peeve.. If you're going to send me a package that requires a signature let me know ahead time. I will give you a different shipping address, to some where that some one will be home to actually sign for it. If you just let me check out and ship me something requiring a signature, that stuff is coming back to you, because no one will be there to sign for it.
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I mean I understand why some sellers would want a signature, I'm not unreasonable. I just know I would never ship some one a package requiring a signature without contacting them first. Odds are they may want it shipped to their work, or a neighbors house, somewhere there would be a person available to sign for it.
- Skiiwee29 and BiotechBen
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11 hours ago, OhioYJ said:AITA... So I have this pet peeve.. If you're going to send me a package that requires a signature let me know ahead time. I will give you a different shipping address, to some where that some one will be home to actually sign for it. If you just let me check out and ship me something requiring a signature, that stuff is coming back to you, because no one will be there to sign for it.
Yeah it's stupid. My grandpa ordered two entire tractor rims for an old ford 3000 tractor. They never told him that they needed a signature, so he had them delivered to his house and left for vacation for 2 weeks. He figured they'd just drop them off, and someone could swing by and put them in the garage. Apparently, it needed a signature, and he had quite a few "we're sorry we missed you we need a signature for your delivery" door hangers on his door when he got back. They ended up returning the wheels back to the place he bought them from, since they couldn't get a signature from anyone after trying to deliver so many times. He had to pay extra for shipping for them when he got back, when he could actually sign. All this could have been avoided had they said something about signatures when he ordered, by shipping them to our house or a neighbors. Why do tractor rims even need signatures? who's stealing this???? IT'S LIKE A 28 INCH STEEL WHEEL
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Considering it's Windows, that seems fairly mild?
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Shouldn't be a problem to restart. Its once you start flashing that you don't want to restart or power down typically.
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Many times though this isn't an issue, as this gets broken. The Crew for example since this is a recent hot topic and example. I'd be willing to bet this gets cracked and people are playing the single player game again before long. At least those that still have the game files. Despite Ubisofts best attempts to make sure no one has the game anymore.
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I don't know you may want to have those game files locally in case developers / publishers decide your "rental" period is over. One day you may need to "liberate" those files.
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Its the OEM manual. There was only one nut torqued in there (for this project). They do have a chart for generic torques based on bolt sizes. However many times in the manual it actually says tighten securely.
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I'm fine with SFF cases being a bit more difficult to build in. What really bugs me is having completely disassemble most of them anytime you want or need to change something.
It's kind of like working on a sport bike, the entire thing will come apart, doesn't matter what you're doing. Swing arm maintenance, start by removing the gas tank, body work, then the radiator... (real series of events that happened in my garage too, for the swing arm maintenance.)
- Average Nerd and da na
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