CodeNova

Everybody's life is meaningless, its not just you. Spending your time wisely doesn't give your life meaning, find what makes ya happy and tell your coworker to blow it out his ass.

Everybody's life is meaningless, its not just you. Spending your time wisely doesn't give your life meaning, find what makes ya happy and tell your coworker to blow it out his ass.

Everybody's life is meaningless, its not just you. Spending your time wisely doesn't give your life meaning, find what makes ya happy and tell your coworker to blow it out his ass.

Everybody's life is meaningless, its not just you. Spending your time wisely doesn't give your life meaning, find what makes ya happy and tell your coworker to blow it out his ass.

Picked up a pair of these cheapies, one is gonna go into an older Dell laptop I have and get some sort of flavour of Linux installed to it, gotta really take a look at something other than Windows or MacOS. The other will be slid into a Intel NUC to make a surprise system.
 
 

Lot of 13 desktops, 8 laptops, 3 monitors, bin of misc parts and box of cables & cords. All for $80. This will keep me busy refurbishing and tinkering for the next few months.  Included 3 Thinkpad X131e's in pretty decent condition. 
 

hubert

I would start by measuring the current consumed by the arduino board.
If you have genuine Arduino Uno Rev3 , the schematic is here: https://content.arduino.cc/assets/UNO-TH_Rev3e_sch.pdf
As you can see, there's a LP2985 linear regulator used to create 3.3v at up to 150mA, the datasheet is here: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lp2985.pdf
 
If you look at the electrical specs, you can see it can handle maximum 16v but it has a poor junction to  ambient thermal resistance of 206c/w and recommended maximum junction temperature of 125 degrees celsius.
 
So let's say your input in 9v and your arduino board consumes 20mA. This means the regulator will dissipate (9v - 3.3v ) x 0.020A = 0.114 watts ... so in the worst case scenario, the regulator should heat by 206 degrees * 0.114 = 24 degrees celsius above ambient - the chip should be around 50c hot.
In real world, the temperature will be a bit less, because the circuit board and the traces will dissipate some of the heat, the heat will spread in the board.
 
Your problem is when your Arduino board consumes 50-100mA ... the regulator could become hot enough to temporarily shut itself down and restart when the temperature drops down by let's say 10-20 degrees (there's some hysteresis involved)
 
Your can reduce this overheating problem by reducing the input voltage... I would say for you it would be best to simply get a battery holder and use 3 or 4 AA or AAA batteries in series... rechargeable batteries will have 1.1v - 1.35v, so with 4 batteries you're gonna have 4v+ ... and alkaline batteries have 2000-2800mAh capacity so they'll last days at low currents. 3 non-rechargeable AA or AAA batteries will have 4.5v-5v (as voltage is 1.4v...1.65v)
 
If your board doesn't consume a lot of power, then ... not sure what to say... with Cadmium batteries I would say the batteries may have been depleted... unless I'm wrong, Cadmium batteries are around 1.2v per battery and die at around 1v (no longer provide meaningful current), so your 8-9v Cadmium battery was probably made out of 8 cells in series.
So the battery may say 8v but as soon as something would pull energy from it, the voltage would drop, the batteries simply can't provide the current the regulator asks.
 
There's also a possibility of the ESC being close to the arduino may radiate noise that could affect the arduino, or some crap may be injected into the arduino through the pwm or ground wires. Maybe see if the arduino dies even when you shield it by placing it inside a metal case (or wrapping a plastic case with some aluminum foil as a shield)

Without a schematic or wiring diagram its really hard to pinpoint the problem. Based on your description it seems like a power issue. Without knowing what Arduino board you have, I can only speculate, but I bet your onboard voltage regulator blew. Those linear voltage regulators are super inefficient, especially when they have to drop a lot of voltage 12->5. That voltage drop is also dissipated as heat, super bad if your not using a heat sink. Also I think those onboard v-regs have a supply limit of 400mA? (don't quote me). So if your powering anything 'from' the Arduino board that exceeds that rating, your gonna have a bad time.
 
Depending on the chip set, the Arduino is really only rated for 5vdc or 3.3vdc, the onboard regulator is rated at 12v, not the chip. So don't connect your Arduino IO to any voltage source greater than that without proper level shifting. You might already know this, but I'm just covering all the bases encase you don't.
 
If it is the regulator, you can do one of three things.
1) Swap out your Arduino board with a new one and see if the problem persists.
2) change out the onboard regulator (it's pain if you don't have the tools) and see if the problem persists.
3) Hook a buck/boost regulator up to the 5v supply pin of the Arduino and see if the problem persists.
 
Tag me if you need any help/advice.

I have an original PhysX card, still in the cellophane in the box, never been opened. If anyone is really interested I can photgraph the box :D.

The RX580 8GB you already have is good for 1080p gaming. Is there a reason you feel the need to upgrade?

Leaktest is passed with distilled water, not a single drop for 3 hours, cable management is also done, time to change the fluid and press the start button.

the rgb controller and pump is powered by external psu

Behold, an entire PC full of 2011-era parts!...
...except they're all dusty and the boot drive is corrupted...

Long time since last update, will try and make up for it with a longer one then usual    First of I finished all the wood working and added the corner pieces that will be holding the front and back pieces in place.                           Not a single screw will be used for the wood frame itself its all held together with wood joints so it was really solid even before applying glue.       Here is plexi for the side windows.       This is what it looked like when it was all clamped in for the glue to dry.           I really like how the bends turned out with the different layers.       Front and back are made of some spare material I found, actually have no idea what its called. But Its made up of some kind of plastic in the middle and very thin aluminum on both sides, that made if very easy to machine with wood tools.                   Made a wooden jig to help with cutting the holes for the front intake fans, and it worked really well. And thanks Mnpctech for the awesome template       

https://www.facebook.com/hypermodel/videos/324910234864400/

Hi guys, new to the forum, thought id share my most recent build. Enjoy.
 
Specs
Case: Thermaltake Suppressor F31
Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus X Hero
CPU: Intel 8700K @ 5.0Ghz
CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Floe Riing 360mm
Memory: Corsair Dominator 2 x 8gb DDR4 3200Mhz
Graphics: Asus Strix GTX1070 OC
Hard drive: Samsung Evo 970 500gb m.2/ 2 x WD Black 3TB
Cooling: 6 x Thermaltake Riing Plus 140mm rgb fans
PSU: Corsair HX750i
Cables: Cablemod Nvidia green sleeved
Mouse: Logitech G pro wireless
Keyboard: Logitech G19
Mousepad : Extended Asus ROG mat
Headset: Plantronics RIG500HD
Monitors : (both rubbish lol) 27" 1080p Phillips main and a 28" 4k AOC secondary. 
Chair: Black ThunderX3
 
 

All tubes are washed, all fittings checked for damaged o-rings let the final loop assembly begin

the first tube installed

the second

cpu waterblock is connected

gpu is installed
I’ve almost started to fill up the loop, but before that I decided to pressure test it with air (da blow test)
Connected a hose to one of the ports on the res and blew into it as hard as I could. The “leak” was found instantly.

Previous owner used to run this gpu in triple SLI and then he was reassemble the waterblock he squashed the o-rings, I borrowed 2 o-rings from gtx-980ti waterblock and it solved the problem
Here is a picture of his insane rig

I’ve contacted the gpu seller last night, he has some spare gaskets and will post them to me. Was really surprised by his behavior, usually it is “sorry mate, it is second hand goods, piss off”

Just wanted to share my build that i'm very proud of. Specs are in my signature. And would like to hear your thoughts.
 
 
 
 
Here is a pick of the cable management when i first built the system 3 years back, its pretty much the same only i have replaced the sata cable for a custom one to tidy the excess cables. Also the mouse will be the Logitech G Pro wireless......... when it finally comes back in stock. Thoughts on that mouse if you own one? i like the castor because its comfy and light.
 
 

Posting one image here, massive album below though.
 
https://imgur.com/a/VyCPlKe
 
Specs:
 
Main System:
-Threadripper 1950X
-2 x GTX 1080ti SLI
-128GB of RAM
-ASRock X399 Professional Gaming
-Intel Optane 900p 280GB
-Asus Xonar Essence Sound Card
-Noctua NH-U14S TR4
-4 x 8TB HGST HDDs
-250GB Samsung 970 Evo
-2TB Micron 1100
-8TB Seagate Barracuda Pro Gaming HDD
-DVD Multi Drive
-BluRay Writer LG WH16NS40
-Corsair AX1600i PSU
Guest System:
-Intel 4790K
-Noctua NH-L12S
-Asus RTX 2060
-16GB of RAM
-Asus Z97I-Plus
-240GB Boot SATA SSD
-4TB Seagate Barracuda Gaming HDD
-Bitfenix 750G PSU
Misc System/Chassis:
-Phanteks Enthoo Elite Gunmetal Grey
-3 x Noctua NF-A14 Chromax
-3 x Noctua NF-F12 Chromax
-NZXT Grid+ V3
-NZXT Hue
Main Setup:
-Acer XR382CQK 3840 x 1600 75hz Display
-2 x Dell Ultrasharp U2719D 2560 x 1440 (Top and Left)
-Dell P2715Q  4k Editing Monitor
-Steel Series Mouse Pad
-Unicomp UltraClassic Buckling Spring (still waiting on my Model F to come in)
-Logitech G600 MMO Mouse
-Razer Mouse Bungie
-Logitech G13 Gameboard
-Logitech X56 HOTAS
-Glorious PC Gaming Race Wrist Rest
-Klipsch Pro Media 2.1
-Schiit Wyrd (powers below)
-AudioEngine D1 DAC
-Schiit Valhalla 2 Amp
-Ikea Gurton Table
-Luxxetta Metal Crossbraced Table
-Dell Monitor Arms
-Vivo Tall Monitor Arm
-StreamDeck and StreamDeck Mini
-GTS250 as a cup holder
-Echo Dot
-DXRacer Chair with Leg Rest
-Philips Hue Bulps and Strips
-NanoLeaf Light Panels
-Elgato KeyLight
-Blue Yeti and Blue Mic Boom
-HiFiMan HE400I Headphones
-HyperX Cloud Headset
-Sennheiser HD600 (not pictured)
-AKG K612 Pros (not pictured)

Guest Setup:
-LG 29UM68-P 75hz 2560 x 1080
-Dell Keyboard (Unicomp is replacing this once my Model F comes in)
-Logitech G502 Proteus Core Mouse
-SteelSeries QCK Heavy Mousepad
-Staples Hyken Mesh Chair
Dell Laptop:
-Being replaced by a Alienware M17 with 8750H and 2080 Max Q on Tuesday 5/7
-i7-7700HQ
-32GB RAM
-1080p Display
-GTX 1050
-1TB NVMe
-90WHr Battery
-Chromebook is Acer Chromebook 14 with 4GB RAM and Celeron
-Phone is BlackBerry Key2
 

If I were you I would've ditched the RGB RAM and gotten a better PSU(The PSU Tier List recommends Tier B and above for gaming builds, but your PSU falls under Tier C), but considering this thing pulls 250W according to PCPartpicker and the PSU is 550W, it should be fine since the PSU shouldn't be anywhere near being stressed to it's limits
For $600 this is a pretty good PC, good choice on the 1600 with 2x8gb ddr4-3000 and rx570

I would try returning the PSU for a cx550 from corsair instead. 
 
Nothing super wrong with the VS series other than its not great in terms of components. 
 
Though if you cant, its not the end of the world. Just expect it to get a little boisy if you draw a medium to high load from it

Nice build, the green intake fans look especially appealing.