Mercay

Currently using a 25+ year old Yamaha AX-570 stereo amplifier for my headphones and speakers. I am wondering if there would be a noticeable difference in sound quality if I were to get something more modern? It sounds great to me, but I do not have much experience with quality audio. The headphones I am using are Beyerdynamic DT-990 pro and Sennheiser 560s, but I am thinking about getting a new pair and stepping up in price a bit. Am I shooting myself in the foot if I use this older stereo amplifier instead of something newer? Thank you.

Is there any point in using NIS and DLSS at the same time? I assume if you have DLSS available you should use that instead of NIS, or is there any further benefit from using both at the same time?

Thank you for the recommendation! I will check it out:)

As long as the data is still there it's all good! My backup so far has been a smaller external drive, one which now has become too small for what I need. Maybe some cloud storage service would be preferable, but I guess there are advantages and drawbacks with any solution.

The PC will have no problem identifying those files after the reinstall then yeah? Bit worried about losing any of that data Thank you for your reply

Thinking about reinstalling windows, I want to completely wipe all drives except for the biggest one containing video captures/movies/music etc. It's close to 4tb in total (a LOT of shadowplay footage) and I do not have an external drive big enough to hold it all. What would be the easiest way of wiping everything else while still keeping the data on this drive? Disconnect it physically from the PC, reinstall everything, then reconnecting it?

Greetings, I have been helping my father set up a TP-link AC1350 access point, we got it running but only his own HP laptop is able to connect to the wireless internet. We tried both my mom's and my own laptops, all saying "there is no internet", and all iphones, ipads and macbooks we have tried all say that there is some security issue with that network. We have reset and reinstalled the access point multiple times, following the steps for what should be a basic connection, no fancy settings. How come my father's laptop is the only one that manages to get a good connection going? What can we do to fix this? Thank you

One of my laptop fans is making a buzzing/vibrating noise and no amount of compressed air to clear any dust has made a difference, I feel like there must be something inside the fan housing making the noise. I got the fan out of the laptop but I cannot seem to be able to pull the fan free from its motor. Google tells me that usually you can just lift the fan straight off, but mine seems to be locked in. I tried to use some amount of force to get it free but to no avail. Further searching tells me that there should be a way to access the shaft on the backside of the fan. On my fan there seems to be a metal fitting on the back of it, which I assume is what I should try to pry loose, however I cannot get any sort of tool in the gap, it's way too tight. Anything I can do here or is the fan permanently locked in?

I am trying to sync my PC's iTunes library to my phone, but every time I press synchronize it is my phone's library that ends up on my PC's iTunes. It's completely backwards. In the past I never had this problem but lately it more often started getting it wrong, until we get to the point now that it is happening every single time I try to sync. Is there an option somewhere that I've missed that decides which way the sync goes?

Even retail WoW is fun if you have a good group of people to play it with! Classic sure brings me back to simpler times in my life ?

Fixed it after a small complication! Using a knife I scraped off every little left over fragment of the original headspreader seal to get as close a fit as possible. Also applied as thin a layer of LM as I could to both the die and the IHS. Idle temps are now in the low 30s, raiding in wow brings it up to 45c at most, and playing a few rounds of black ops 4 lands at about 55c at most. Amazing difference! Thank you for your input guys!

Fixed! There were two bent pins in the socket, I carefully bent them back into position with an exacto knife and now everything is in perfect working order! ? Thanks for the help guys!

It’s a corsair h110i, should be easy to remove but my cable management has made a lot harder than it should be ? I’ll get it done either way. My motherboard only has two full sized PCI-E slots, neither one makes it work atm.

I have reseated the GPU in the first slot and tried the second slot too, same result. I checked the pins before I dropped the CPU in, everything seemed in order at that time. I’ll try to reseat the CPU again, is there anything else I could try before I rip through my water cooling? ?

I re-applied liquid metal to my CPU yesterday with some input from you guys, and now my GPU is no longer detected in windows. The CPU and its onboard graphics is working perfectly fine, but my GPU no longer shows up in either device manager (even hidden devices), nor in the BIOS. The RGB on the card keeps doing its thing, and when I turn on the computer my screens that are connected to the GPU briefly react and light their backlights, only to then go dark again. So there seems to be some sort of life in it? I have uninstalled all nvidia drivers and attempted to reinstall them, but this fails due to the GPU being undetected. I tried using my second PCI-E slot, but it has made no difference. TL;DR I re-seated my CPU and my GPU is now completely undetected. What should I do? Google has been less than helpful : /

No glue, just let the retention bracket hold it down. Perhaps there is some residue left from the factory sealant... will have to check. Solidly mounted. Should be the same regular amount I usually do, going to take it apart to look at it + re-do the metal. Corsair Link shows it running at max speed of 3150-3200 rpm. Could that be a faulty reading? I think I did a pretty thin layer, could perhaps be thinner! I will try. Honestly cant recall if I put any on the IHS itself, is that enough to make the difference if I forgot it? Thank you for the replies.

Currently sitting in retail WoW with around 40% cpu usage and my delidded and liquid metal-ed 7700k is sitting at 80-85c, stock 4500mhz boost. My cooler is a corsair H110i running at max speeds, both the pump and the fans on the radiator. Seems like a very high temperature for having liquid metal applied. Regarding my liquid metal application, I've tried both a thin and a thicker coat of it on the die, seems to make no difference. Any ideas what I could do different to get temps down?

As the title suggests, my Philips soundbar has suddenly developed a faint robotic echo, most clearly heard during speech. I've gone through the manual and can find no info that seems to be on the subject, and the sound from the TV speakers themselves is completely muted. Any ideas what could have happened? Is it broken or could there be a setting that could fix it?

Ahhh that actually makes sense! Thank you for the fast reply

While transferring my WoW UI from my desktop to my external drive, the transfer rate of the interface files (about 350 mb) is extremely slow, usually laying around 100 kb/s, but also spiking wildly up to 15 mb/s, down to as low as 10 kb/s. Takes about 15 minutes transferring those 350 MB's. ; / However, transferring any other files seem to be working perfectly, I am seeing speeds above 100 mb/s when transferring video files, for example. What causes this mixed behavior? Anything that can be done about it? Thanks in advance.

I played around with those settings in the nvidia control panel and it seems to have fixed it. Thank you!

Could be worth adding that not all games have this issue. Forza Horion 3, Forza Motorsport and WoW have this exact issue. Only happens at 3840 x 2160 resolution with fullscreen mode. Doom and Ghost Recon: Wildlands meanwhile work perfectly fine...

This is the result when I try to run forza horizon 3 and a few other games on my Samsung TV. Only happens if the game is running in full screen mode at 3840 x 2160. Any other resolution works fine, but 3840 x 2160 is the TV's native resolution so I would like to be able to match it. The issue is the same whether I use my laptop or my PC, which at first led me to believe that something was wrong with my TV. I have since had the same issue on a different Samsung TV, which would then indicate that there is some setting in the TV that is messing with it? Plugging my PC to a non-Samsung 4k TV works perfectly, it just seems to be Samsung that is the issue. Any idea what the problem is? Could there be a setting somewhere that I need to change?

Yeah I thought so, oh well. Thank you ^^

No, I got it fresh from the store, in what I assume was its original packaging. No signs of damage at all. It is quite long at about 30 meters, which is 5 meters longer than the cable I replaced (which still works fine). I was however under the impression that the length shouldn't really matter at all, or am I mistaken? Another thing worth noting is that I tried plugging the potentially faulty cable into my laptop and every few seconds it alternates between detecting and not detecting the cable. So to summarize: Cable works perfectly while plugged into my desktop. Cable is not even detected while plugged into any of my two routers. While plugged into my laptop, the cable is alternating between being recognized and not recognized every few seconds. Makes no sense to me! At this point I'm just trying to understand why my desktop recognizes it and everything else doesn't... Thank you for your replies