Nexxt

Both are single precision, the 958k is adjusted to CPU FLOPS to take into account that GPU's can perform tasks like powers in a single cycle where a CPU would take 2, the actual value compared to Linpack is somewhere between the two.

The F@H statistics page is up again, and currently the peak combined processing speed is 958 PFLOPS.
This is nearly 5 times faster than the fastest supercomputer in the TOP500. (Summit: 201 PFLOPS)
It's also faster than the combined peak processing power of the top 10. (742 PFLOPS)
Doing pretty good if I can say say so.
 
https://stats.foldingathome.org/os
https://www.top500.org/lists/2019/11/

The F@H statistics page is up again, and currently the peak combined processing speed is 958 PFLOPS.
This is nearly 5 times faster than the fastest supercomputer in the TOP500. (Summit: 201 PFLOPS)
It's also faster than the combined peak processing power of the top 10. (742 PFLOPS)
Doing pretty good if I can say say so.
 
https://stats.foldingathome.org/os
https://www.top500.org/lists/2019/11/

The F@H statistics page is up again, and currently the peak combined processing speed is 958 PFLOPS.
This is nearly 5 times faster than the fastest supercomputer in the TOP500. (Summit: 201 PFLOPS)
It's also faster than the combined peak processing power of the top 10. (742 PFLOPS)
Doing pretty good if I can say say so.
 
https://stats.foldingathome.org/os
https://www.top500.org/lists/2019/11/

Get yourself the RME ADI-2 (~$1000 USD) or Matrix Audio Element X (~$3000 USD) as your starting point DAC/AMP and then find the headphone that has the tone you like the best. Both these all-in-one units are measurably transparent to your ear.
 
Even the Drop x Sennheisser 6XX will sound magnificent. If you fancy treble and mids over bass, then maybe the HD800S. Every headphone will sound different, but your AMP/DAC shouldn't. 
 
The only way AMPS/DACS add colour, space, tone, (insert adjective here) to your music is through distortion, noise, channel imbalance, etc. - All bad things. 
 
If your AMP is under powered, it can sound closed in, muddy, have no punch, etc. To fix this, check the output of the amp at your headphone ohms rating to see if it has enough power to drive your headphone. Typically an amplifier will be able to deliver more power through a balanced output, so sometimes replacing your headphone cable with a balanced connector to use this plug will improve the listening experience (note that the cable construction is important, not the material. Don't listen to people telling you that silver cable etc will improve your highs, just make sure you get a robust cable that has been built well... The important figure here is resistance and capacitance, not material)
 
 

It has the specs of what DxDiag says, and it says its a prebuilt, it may be in a new case but that's it.
 
ThinkCentre Edge 72
 
LENOVO 3484HPU mobo
i3-3220
16 GB of RAM
1tb WD HDD
 
>>> These are also the specs of your PC.
https://www.lenovo.com/gb/en/desktops/thinkcentre/edge-series-towers/edge-72/
 
Sorry for your loss.

I think you math is a bit off, 200 employes, 198 keep their job, 2 get 2 billion each.

Might as well try it out. You're gonna shell out for a VR headset regardless because you want it, so just be aware that you might need a new CPU too. Nothing an i7 3770 can't fix.

There are many of us who purchased Ryzen 1st Gen and are looking at the newest chips with hopes to purchase. Problem is, can we trust AMDs am4 promise that this new chips (with bios updates) will work well?
 
We have the x370, x470 and x570 now, as well as a slue of boards in-between. 
 
Honestly, before the launch and release it would be nice to get some testing on older boards to see if the new processors work.
 
How does a 3950x work on a top end board from the day Ryzen launched?
 
How about a b450 board? If not the 3950, could someone drop a new processor onto it at all and it work?
 
I know the charts and power figures say some boards won't and some will, but I really and hesitant about dropping 750 bucks just to have to replace my motherboard as well, and frankly, I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to see AMDs promises tested before purchasing.

No, Wattman should do it automatically unless you want silence up to a certain temperature. 80°C is getting toastie, 90°C is hot, most cards will survive 100°C+ but not for long. Is recommend having your fans kick up to 100% before 90°C.

There won't be any hardware issues with such common hardware, the drivers for the 1060 are on Nvidia's website. https://www.nvidia.com/Download/driverResults.aspx/147582/en-us

The power supplies that I've had blow, resulted in complete failure on the PSU's part. You mentioned that the system does not POST and your testing suggests a GPU failure, nothing else. The only way to tell for sure is as you say to either test with a different PSU, or the GPU in another system.

What's your usage like without a game open? My guess is honestly a virus, what Antivirus do you use?

And then he slathers on some retrobrite and vavoom it's like new again!

Gpu part is maxed out, look on yhe left bottom -> bottleneck

If my brain counts as a password manager, then yes.

If you've ever watched the 8-bit guy, it's noticeable how the plastic darkens in colour when exposed to sunlight and that a new "old" case is actually a very pale, nearly white colour. If you can't find that exact colour in paint form I would advise just going for as close to white beige as possible.

Bass is a bit mind bending, tight and controlled with great low end, but it is crystal clear and rumbles the floor boards so it does it's job.
The mid range i feel is a bit lacking, but they sound very clear.

$70 new 15 years ago. As long as they work then you can't really go wrong for a $25 5.1 system unless they're rattly or really poorly balanced.

At 80Mbps it would take 1 minute to download a 600MB file.
There are 8 bits in a byte.

It would take exactly 60 seconds to download a 600 MB file with an 80 Mb connection.

I'm kind of surprised that Linus makes it out to be a necessity, I have hardly used the front facing camera of any devices I have owned, let alone laptop webcams.

If a 3 A device draws 10 A from a Schuko, nothing happens? That's why fused plugs are good because they are individually tuned to the device. Childproofing IS optional in a lot of countries, only countries with compulsory shutters were listed as such. The idea that safety comes second because people should be hurt if they make a mistake is a fallacy. Switching outlets is a convenience and was listed as such, powering off a device fully without unplugging it is not a safety issue.

Awards:
Most powerful plugs: Australia, New Zealand and Brazil
Safest Plug: United Kingdom
Worst Modern Plug: Japan
Most Confusing Standards: France (The circuitry does not have a standard for polarisation despite only fitting in one way and the socket will work with non-earthed plugs)
 
I can't comment on an award for size because I really don't have the time to look up the different technical specifications. It's likely to go to type A plugs however from looking at images.

Feel free to throw in any corrections with an "@" and I'll correct it later.

A - The safety of children is more important than you seem to care, watching a child night and day without rest might be feasible for you but it isn't for me.
B - If a socket is out of the reach of children then it isn't a problem, you're right. But I've seen thousands of sockets at floor level.
C - They aren't children forever, but some mistakes shouldn't ever be made. I would never allow kids to be electrocuted willingly so I'm perfectly happy with regulations requiring compulsory shutters, all of the examples you listed are as you say "Its just optional...", the sockets are neither polarised, shuttered or grounded by standard or any of the items you listed.
D - You're a hypocrite.
E - You may be the perfect engineer who never makes mistakes but I do, don't put us on a pedestal like we're untouchable and would never create an unsafe device. Accidents happen and that's why we have QHSE.
p.s. I'm not from England, I'm Scottish.
 
"Should" is the key word here. Mistakes are made and older devices are often under-engineered for electrical failure. You are correct in that the fuse is to protect the house circuitry in case of the device failing critically. All of your points are otherwise correct.
 
Devices requiring less than 230 V have an on-wall converter and built-in protections for mA values, the radio I'm sitting next to right now has a 150 mA protection circuit, you would be right otherwise in your second paragraph. 3 A, 5 A and 13 A are the only fuse levels here, such a device would likely be set at 3 A should it require the full plug.