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About Blai5e

  • Title
  • Birthday 1962-03-07

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia


  • CPU
    Intel i9-9900k (EKWB'ed)
  • Motherboard
    EVGA Z370 Classified K (BIOS 1.14)
  • RAM
    Corsair CMW32GX4M4C3200C16 @14-17-17-35-1T (32GB)
  • GPU
    2 x EVGA GTX 1080TI SC2 (EKWB'ed)
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass Edition
  • Storage
    Samsung EVO 970 M.2 500GB, Samsung 860 QVO 2TB, Seagate FireCuda 2TB (ST2000DX002), NAS (4 x ST2000VN004 RAID 5)
  • PSU
    Corsair AXi 1200W w/CableMod full sleeve kit (red)
  • Display(s)
    ASUS ROG Strix XG27VQ
  • Cooling
    Full EKWB hard line custom loop 240mm & 420mm rads w/2 x Corsair Commander Pro's for fan control
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 RGB Platinum
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 RGB Elite
  • Sound
    Onboard Creative Sound Core3D 5.1 Channel HD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Recent Profile Visitors

377 profile views
  1. Normal behaviour for PC's since... forever. The idea is to disconnect the speakers when a headphone is detected in the front audio - pretty much what everyone would want to happen.
  2. This should be an important takeaway from Alex's post and as long as it has a 24-pin (with the paperclip short between pins 4 & 5) and a molex connector, it matter little of the brand or to an extent; quality. If you have an EVGA PSU, they provide a plug so you don't need to bridge the 24-pin connector at all, just plug it in! Using a separate PSU means no power running through the motherboard and any spills shouldn't be destructive. If you're doing an extended (i.e. 24 hour) leak test, use the secondary PSU for this purpose as well. I have a Corsair SFX modular PSU (with the EVGA 24-pin plug) just for these instances that I picked up on a sweet discount. Another couple of (not so common) tools I use are the Primochill finishing tool (make sure you buy the correct size for the tubes you intend to use.) for near perfect PETG ends (athough not suitable for acrylic) and the Dr. Drop pressure tester (EKWB has just released something similar) for pre-testing for leaks prior to adding any coolant. And Alex... I'll give you a wave next time I see you in the "Kingdom of Turbo-Nerdom " as I just received my Phanteks PH-D140 distribution plate to tidy up my custom loop
  3. If you're not confident with flashing your GFX BIOS (or waiting), I'd go for the PowerColor RX 5700 XT Red Devil. The XFX THICC has a problem with its fan curve that will be (eventually) addressed with a BIOS update. Have a look at the video by Hardware Unboxed - XFX RX 5700 XT THICC II, Great Looking Graphics Card for further clarification.
  4. Once the loop has normalised (temperature-wise), order becomes a non-issue so just go with what works and/or looks best. I have my rig ordered in the same manner (albeit 420mm & 240mm rads) in a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe T/C using all EK parts and am happy with the temperatures. I'm about to rebuild my rig once my Phanteks PH-D140 distribution plate arrives next week which will change my loop from "Res/D5 Pump > serial GPU's > 420mm Rad > CPU > 240mm Rad" to a full parallel system. It will become "Res/D5 Pump > parallel GPU's and CPU in parallel (via the distribution block) > 420mm Rad > 240mm Rad". I may rotate my 420 rad so the ports are at the front of the case to clean up the return run from the distribution block back to the radiator if space allows.
  5. Well, looking at the manual it appears you're correct. Once you install M2. drives, everything is disabled except PCI_E1.
  6. Check CAM and see if you are using CPU or liquid as the temperature source. You should be set the liquid (and you might want to turn on the hysteresis feature as well).
  7. It's just a RGB cable, not a low fluid sensor. Nothing to worry about if you're not into RGB (and if not, why didn't you just save $10-odd and get the non-RGB version?).
  8. You could get a M.2 to PCI.e riser card.
  9. @Renesh11 - normally the extra 4 (or 8 pin) only becomes necessary when pushing overclocks and you should be able to boot with just the 8 pin. Are you trying to start your rig with the case power on button? If so, I'd be more inclined to say that either your front panel cables are off or the power button is faulty.
  10. You could use a140mm to 120mm adapter like the Bgears 2 Pieces Pack Cooling Fan Adapter 140mm Black on Amazon. I used one once when I had to mount a 120mm rad in the top of an old Lian Li case that was replacing a 140mm fan.
  11. I think OP was referring to the Primochill Finishing Bit, not a tube reamer. I have the Primochill Finishing Bit and it works much better than a reamer (and works well if you need to trim the length down a bit as well). In Jay's latest build (Using Metal Tubes for my loop! Here's how), he used it on metal tubing as well. Just make sure you buy the correct bit for the tube size you intend to use.