B-Monster

I tried with just the mobo power connectors, and still nothing. I'm going to take a look at the pins on the CPU socket when I get home, it's possible that I may bent a pin.

Hey all, So, I just got me a shiny new Asus Z390-A motherboard with an i5-9600K CPU and 16GB Kingston Hyper-X DDR4 RAM, slapped it all together and it doesn't POST at all. The fans spin up, CPU fan runs, the Power LED on the mobo shows green, but none of the other LEDs on the mobo light up at all. I checked all my connections, and tried even with just using the onboard video, and outside the case, and still nothing. Tried a different PSU because I was skeptical if the PSU I originally had was good or not, and still no joy. I tried toggling the MemOK switch between On and Off, and gave it some time to "retrain" the RAM...still no luck.

It's not that they're just incompatible, they're keyed completely differently. How did you manage to ram that into the slot?

For home use, or even SOHO use, unmanaged is fine. You don't need to worry about anything. If you have a large network, you're going to want managed. We don't do any fancy VLANS or anything like that, but the ability to enable spanning tree, blocking jumbo packets, storm control, etc are all helpful in a multi-switch environment.

"Comfortable using"? As in, can I use it, or would I want to use it? I've been doing this gig for over 25 years now, the only thing I won't crack into is mobile devices. I'd build my own system, and I'd build it with whatever parts I could afford at the time. I try to get the parts that are just at that tipping point of being too expensive for the product that you're getting. That said, I'd pick an i5 over an i7 for a home system, and an nVidia xx60 series over an xx70 series.

Sounds like the network drivers are corrupted. Download the latest drivers from the manufacturer, disable any antivirus you have and reinstall the drivers. If you aren't sure which drivers to get, check the Hardware IDs under the "Details" tab in Device manager and search for the VEN_####&DEV_#### numbers.

In the properties of your ethernet adapter, what does it say under "Device Status"?

You should yeah.

Not always, no. RAM is where the information is stored for the computer to be able to access. If there is not enough RAM, Windows will use a pagefile to swap the data in and out of that it needs. Sure, more RAM is better, but there gets to be a point where you have too much RAM, and it's just sitting there unused. Sure, you aren't swapping out to the pagefile, but if you're only consistently using less than 8GB of RAM, there's no need to waste money on upgrading to 32GB.

Most modern computers have a built-in network adapter (typically located near the top right above 2 USB ports), Windows 10 should have the device installed already. The cable that comes from your modem to your wireless router will also plug directly into that port. It's a typical RJ45 port which is usually Cat5 or Cat5e. If you have your computer setup for DHCP (automatic IP address), it should connect automatically to the Internet through the modem. Some ISPs, though, require PPPoE authentication, so you'd have to check with your Internet Provider to see if there are any special configurations that need to be done (most often not). Keep in mind, though, that this isn't the most optimal way. Your wifi router would have a firewall built into it to prevent attacks. Windows 10 also does have a firewall built in, but it's not entirely perfect. The firewall on the router would add an extra layer of protection from the outside world. Most wifi routers also have multiple ethernet ports built into them so you can hardwire devices directly into them (such as a desktop PC). You can pick up Cat5/Cat5e ethernet cables from any electronics store fairly cheap (about $0.50/foot).

So, just echoing what others may have said here, this is my first post so go easy on me. When you use the term "router" that identifies a device that translates one network over to another. Typically not best practice to have multiple routers in one network unless you want to segregate the network for one reason or another...for a home setup, this really isn't necessary. Your Virgin device should be configured as the router, and as the DHCP host. Say, for example it's configured as 192.168.0.1/24 and will dole out IP addresses. Your other two are just setup as switches. You can configure each of these as 192.168.0.2 and 192.168.0.3 with their gateway and DNS settings configured to go through 192.168.0.1 and DHCP disabled on them (since 192.168.0.1 will be handling that). 192.168.0.1 would be configured to assign DHCP addresses from 192.168.0.10 (would be a good starting point for home)-192.168.0.254, gateway setup as 192.168.0.1 and DNS set up to whatever flavour of DNS you want to use (I like using 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 which is Google's DNS servers and rarely have issues, but that's just my preference). Your external interface (WAN) would be configured with whatever your ISP provides. You can also name your wireless access points with the same SSID. This way, if your device goes out of range of one AP, it will be picked up by another. You can also give the 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz the same SSID and authentication key so if a device can use 5Ghz, it will, and if the signal isn't strong enough for 5Ghz, it will switch over to 2.4Ghz.