Mr.Genuine

could you mention which cable are you using to connect your GPU and monitor? I think there are a few monitors who only support 144 Hz with a Display cable and not HDMI. Don't quote me on this, your monitor might support it on HDMI, I'm just bringing out a possibility.

My Fitbit Versa was working very well, suddenly it has stopped charging.. It had some 5 % battery left, I kept it for charging. Now it's completely off and it doesn't charge. One thing to note is that the watch does heat up while it is kept on the charger. Where is the problem here?

I'm just confused because of the myths lying around..I don't know what's the truth..Plox help me

Recently my friend asked me to suggest a PC for video editing. Forget budget and stuff, I am okay with suggesting components that's a different thing. He's not much interested in gaming so I suggested him Ryzen 5 2600. Now I have to suggest a GPU to him. Another friend of mine said that Amd GPUs work better with AMD CPUs in video editing. Now I smell this is fishy because all I have heard is that AMD AMD and Intel Nvidia working well is just a myth. What is the truth about this? What will perform better for him? The options are Vega 64 and RTX 2070

PS - I still can't access that menu on main youtube screen so it still exists.

It is. I just figured out an alternative route. I copied my channel link from phone..Pasted it on chrome and BAAM! It works. So yeah YouTube bugs

Tried it on Chrome and edge. Both have same problem. Yes tried signing in and out. Didn't help. Will download opera now.

Now I know this is weird but it is. I can use all of Youtube, like videos and subscribe to other channels, but I can't access my channel. I can also chat in livestreams LOL. What's going on? Fun fact is, this is only on PC. All browsers I have. Edge(for no reason) and Chrome. I use YouTube on my Phone and there isn't a problem on the phone. Check screenshot. Can someone help? I have cleared cache and internet history but in vain It keeps loading, loading and loading. Also, there is no problem with my internet. Also I tried it with my other gmail account and it worked with it. So is something wrong with THIS particular gmail account?

Provided you have a decent PSU RX 580 should be fine. Although keep in mind here wattage is not only the consideration. The quality of the PSU matters the most in these cases. I think 500W is decent enough, check PC partpicker as well you can figure out how much power your PC can use (maximum) and make a choice. If you're on a budget masterwatt series from Cooler Master or grey label VS series from Corsair are the ones to go for. Don't go for anything cheaper than this. THIS IS THE BASE LINE I'm talking about. If you are planning to do some hardware related encoding I have a feeling that GTX 1060 would be your best buddy. But keep in mind it's expensive. Also I'd not mind if you rather buy a GTX 1660 instead of a 1060 since it's new and definitely better for 220 bucks.

exactly. Try re creating installation media from the windows site. Try a different USB device maybe? Provided all RAM sticks are properly in, the processor is in and the pins ain't damaged, provided all PSU cables are connected properly it should be fine. But I really think you should POST before you actually keep the mobo inside the Cabinet. That's the way you figure out if the problem is in the CPU or the RAM. You the probability of the problem being in RAM or CPU is very low, you have many things to consider now.

How are you installing Windows 10 in a PC which doesn't have an operating system?

Replace 1060 with RX 580 They're going for pretty cheap I assume. Also if you can wait and you're a nVidia fanboi, then the GTX 1650 won't be a bad option too. I think it's a 1060 3Gig equivalent with 4 GB VRAM. So it's worth checking out. Also I won't recommend you to go Ryzen since your buddy ain't streaming or doing any sort of productivity. Anyway this is a build I'd love to mention - The build costs roughly 527$ without a case and an SSD. I didn't pick a CPU Cooler cos, why? The stock heatsink is fine for i3s and even for i5s I suppose unless you're overclocking. Also places where you can save is the motherboard. You can go for a mobo with H310 chipset but I went with a B series motherboard which has slightly better overclocking capabilities and features which might help your cuty lil bro in the future if he decides to buy a new cpu or buy some RGB stuff, cos yeah, it's all RGB today and I know how it feels to live with a mobo without an RGB header. Anyways, you can buy a cheap case within 25-30 bucks. Check out some offline stores, you'll find decent cases. If you buy a H series mobo you'll get it for roughly 50 bucks, that saves you. You can also save a bit on the PSU but don't be cheap. Don't buy dirt cheap PSU's, they'll hurt your butt later. This saved money can help you get a better case or a better GPU maybe.

At this point those cores won't help you since the processor is simply OUTDATED. You might have problems while creating different portals for VMs. I hope I'm using the right term. Or is it terminals? Nvm..I think 4790k should do the job, 2 cores 4 threads to each VM and you can make 2 of them.

That's icing on the cake then. Even an RX 460 or a 470 will do the job for you. Provided you have a decent power supply though. 400W - 450 W seems fine but you can check. I'm not good at that power math. But I'd suggest you to go for a higher end CPU say for example the i5 9400 F which is on sale for about like 235 CA$ in amazon. 300 US$ is like 400 CA$ so you still have a decent 165 CA$ in your hand after buying the CPU. You can buy a good z 370 motherboard after that too, and that's without spending a buck technically. But the place where you'd need to spend is RAM. Because you've been on DDR3 and now you need to switch to DDR4. Perhaps you'll still get like some 60-70 bucks for your 4790k + Mobo. So you can use that in buying good quality RAM. Dual Channel 16 GB RAM would do the job or even 8 GB is perfectly fine unless your tasks are really intense which demand RAM

I won't go for the older 990x as someone said mobo failures are common and it's pretty old. I'm running an i7 3770 and it's not bad, it's delivering the performance for me. To be honest a 1070 doesn't make sense if you want to play CSGO. At competitive settings 1080p even a 1050 or a 1050 ti would give well above 144 FPS. I don't think it makes sense to spend for a 1070(except when you have money and you don't have anything else to do with it) By the look of your description you have a Mac to do CPU intensive tasks as well. And you don't do any other productive stuff which need GPU hardware I suppose so that proves my point again. Maybe sell the 1070 for about 300 USD, buy a 1050 Ti for 100 bucks, use the other 200 bucks to get a better CPU Mobo combo maybe? PS - If you are REALLY Stubborn to choose one out of the two, the 4790 build is a no brainer imo. Just go for it. edit - can u pls describe which intensive tasks are you talking about? Are they just CPU hungry or they also want updated thingys?

Hmm..But I was just worried because it isn't as it used to be.

Specs- i7 3770 MSI h-61m P20 (G3) 12 GB Dual Channel 4+8 DDR3 @ 1333 MHz Recently I enabled turbo boost and edited the multiplier in the BIOS and made it 39x100 MHz which is 3.9 GHz Now I noticed that my CPU is on full clocks 3692 MHz even on idle. I checked out the BIOS and yes, Intel Speedstep IS enabled. I heard somewhere that speedstep gets disabled on overclocking. Maybe true. But anyway, is there a way to save CPU power at idle time? Btw, USAGE is always <10% and Power Plan is *Balanced >> CPU minimum state 5%* C-State is disabled. Do you think I should enable C state? also it ends up opening another box(in the bios) where it asks about some type, I don't remember. Thanks for the help!

Yeah you might have to do tat..

I think you just read my model number..I did say that I didn't have an experience where my PSU is loud..And keep in mind I have an old case where PSUs are screwed and placed at the TOP. I'm kewl boi

I'm using a Grey label VS 450..Never had this experience yet..

I'll be having case fans and CPU cooler with RGB and I wanna sync/control them. I think the Cooler master RGB LED controller is the one..It costs about 40$ here.

Thanks for suggestion bro, but I don't think I can afford it. It's a really good one cos it is software controllable..

Hey! So the situation is like this. I have an old MSI H-61 m P20(G3) Motherboard on my PC. Since it's old it doesn't have an RGB header. Which means I cannot connect RGB components (fans and led strips) directly to it. I've heard that there are cheap 10$ controllers available from Cooler Master which act as an interface via SATA. Now I don't know how efficient this is and how long is this thing working. Do you think I can customise my RGB after buying that controller? Link to amazon page I just want to know how this thing works and how long I can customise. I haven't bought any RGB component yet, it's just that I want to know how far this little controller can take me. Thanks

It's a new PSU brother..can't change it as of now..It's cheap but not terrible

Perhaps the last time I'm asking. RX 580 4 GB or the 1060 3 GB? Keep in mind I have a newer Corsair VS 450 so I doubt if RX 580 would be fine, retailers recommend 550W PSU's. Also I want to stream on hardware, i.e. AMD VCE or NVENC. Which do you think is better? I also care about the software.