Woyta

I already have custom water cooling loop. I am not building from scratch. This card has decent cooler from 7900 XT but my enviroment is very quiet. That is why I started with water cooling almost 20 years ago. PCBs have same board numbers. From overlaping pictures in photoshop I see that holes are identical, power circuits are identical. Cards have similar TDP. I see nothing that could colide. I guess that you are looking at different cards, than I posted links.

I am looking for options how to watercool my XFX 7900 GRE. From photos it seems that PCB is same as 7800 XT with just different core and USB-C instead of one display port. Board number are sem according techpowerup (109-D712A7-00_02). XFX 7900 GRE: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/xfx-rx-7900-gre.b11745 7800 XT: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/radeon-rx-7800-xt.c3839 7900 GREs are using coolers from 7800 XT or 7900 XT. So if there is no height difference between Navi 31 and 32, block for 7800 XT should be direct fit? I am thinking of buying waterblock from Alphacool or Bykski. Have somebody try this combination?

This is stock XFX 7900 GRE at full load. Noise and temperature seems to be OK. And OC is decent and easy. Just move sliders in AMD software to max values. AMD is promising larger limits in future. Power 15%+, memory 2304mhz, max frequency 2800mhz and my car was stable at lower core voltage 950mv. After that card consumes 280w, boosts over 2600mhz, average frequency 2300-2400mhz and hotspot temperature is 92C in my case. I think that is better option than 7800 XT these days.

I was doing this on later socket A cpu. There was cutted gap by AMD so pencil trick does not work. You had to fill gap with cyanoacrylate glue and then connect contacts with conductive lacquer. I think that I still have in garage Athlon 2000XP with unlocked multiplier and enabled laptop functionality for better power management.

I am trying to replace 3tb WD NAS hard drive in my old WD MyCloud (G1C BFEJNA 16118Q) with 18tb enterprise Toshiba hard drive. Original drive is still working so I have tried to clone it on new hardrive. I used clonezilla boot drive and on second attempt GParted. In booth cases some of 24! partitions were giving me some issues. As result I got only blinking led on NAS. So I have tried older solutions and downloaded these images https://www.31mike.net/topic/22-how-to-replace-a-wd-my-cloud-hard-drive/?tab=comments#comment-182 NAS LED shows solid color and still nothing happened. Just mycloud web was traing to find new NAS asking for 9digit code on bottom side of case and was not able to find new drive. At this moment I am running out of Ideas how to prepare ned hard drive. In worst case I will put that drive in my PC or buy some NAS (probably Synology DS120j)

If Linus wants to try some antique water cooling parts I may have some tips for him. In DIY era of watercooling there was couple hobbyist's who start to produce good water blocks. Some may be active even these days but peak was around 2010. One of them was even able to beat EK Supreme with his CPU block. http://www.aquacool.cz/ Some others were: http://www.liquidtech.cz/novinky - mostly expansion tanks, fittings KPcool (site dead) - active around 2005. Water blocks drawings in attachment's. Cooper core with anodized aluminum body. (I used to own them) Erty h2o.net (site dead) - active around 2005. Radiators soldered from cooper plate a copper piping. Blocks similar to KPcool. Bonus: Two designs I and my friend made in 2008. They were newer made we were poor students at the time. BTW: I have that Aquacool 4x memory waterblock in my box with old watercooling parts.

I think that LTT needs couple of thees puppies in their storage. http://www.aquacool.cz/6xddr.php http://www.aquacool.cz/4xddr.php I got one used set for 4 sticks of ram and it is lot of cooper. I don't know if he produce them anymore, I would have to ask him. It is pretty long time. But his products were high quality.

Well. Some monitors have USB hub. That means we can power Raspi internally. In case of my old HP LP2475W USB ports are on separate board. So I can disconnect them from hub and hook up two ports from raspi board. For less visible HDMI cable I would use probably HDMI flex cable. For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32865096456.html With some small cover it could look like plug for unused port. But better variant is LCD with cable cover like on Samsung 32" UH850 . Actually, in this case Raspi maybe directly fit under cover. So no mods needed at all. And you have perfect access to everything.

Finaly over 500k. https://stats.foldingathome.org/donor/Woyta I would say that atleast 50% of time was my PC waiting for WUs. This also shows me where are limits of my cooling. So now all fans in my PC are Noctua (4x140, 2x120) Silentum fans (local polish brand reasonable quality) were not good enough

On other forum i got this advice. Windows power profile: Max performance. I dont know why but with latest drivers 20.2.1 it seems stable (last 5 days)

https://community.amd.com/thread/236319 Yes it is dumb as it sounds. The only solutions that works is the driver 17.11.1 https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/release-notes/rn-rad-win-17-11-1 Or GPU BIOS if you are lucky. Not my case for my Asus Vega 56 Strix 8G.

I did clean instal of OS. Just OS, drivers and browser. Win 7 pro. Crash after couple of hours. Win 10 LTSC 2019 seem stable. (Read no crash yet. I have not time this week to spend at PC.)

Same problem on my Vega 56. I am running out of ideas. I have tried different version of drivers. Booth Bioses, downclock my ram to 2666mhz and default settings in MB Bios. And still crashes. PC is stable with R290x, RX550. Ryzen 5 1600 Asus Prime B350 plus 4x8gb 3200mz RAM (Corsair, G.Skill booth same Hynix chip) My PSU is 750w Enermax NAXN My first Vega was used reference card from Sapphire https://youtu.be/t3vM0AXWsks One video of crash. After RMA I got new Asus Vega 56 Strix and it is same again.

Fixed an issue where the system fails to resume from Standby or Hibernation in DC mode with the insertion of a specific media card reader. Note that this issue only occurs in DC mode with Microsoft Windows XP. Well. I am not using XP. And I am not resuming from standby. I am trying to power it off (no hibernation) or restart it. I am playing with this problem for sime time and trying to find solution. I got this problem since SP1. Windows is fully updated. And its fresh instal too. Bios was latest. Now it is downgraded 2 versions just to test if there is a difference in behavior.

I got problem with W7 on my old Laptop HP 2560P. From time around release of SP1 I got problem, that I cant turn laptop off or even restart. It alway just black out screen (backlight turned on) a stop reacting to any button. It seem, that there was some change in basic windows drivers I am not able to find. Laptop works fine with Linux (Lubuntu) or W7 without updates. Does somebody know what could cause that?