Jump to content

boooysti

Member
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

System

  • CPU
    i7-8700
  • Motherboard
    Stock HP
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR4-2666
  • GPU
    GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5
  • Case
    OMEN Obelisk
  • Storage
    256 GB NVMe M.2 & 1 TB HDD
  • PSU
    500W
  • Cooling
    Air Cooled
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G413
  • Mouse
    Corsair Harpoon
  • Operating System
    Windows

boooysti's Achievements

  1. Just smoother performance on higher end games. Like my 1060 runs Modern Warfare fine, but at exactly 60 fps on medium. I want to be able to enjoy the graphics of the game without worry
  2. I currently have a 1060 6Gb from EVGA, but now ive been starting to see some lower priced 2070 supers, and was wondering if its worth the upgrade. Should I pick one up during black friday sales, or go with another card worth the money? I got a Ryzen 7 2700X with 32 Gbs of RAM so my GPU is the lowest piece of my build
  3. Just to start off I do not have and dump logs, but as this seems to be a common issue with no fix I've found elsewhere, I'll ask here. I have: MSI B450M Pro-VDH RYZEN 3 2200G (Not OC) T-Force Night Hawk DDR4 3200 16GB An SSD with Windows 10, an HDD for files. No GPU ***The RAM is not on the official supported list*** So when I first built this I had trouble installing windows, presumably because I was pushing the 8GB minimum USB with one that really only had 7.2, but it finally worked and then I realized that may not be the real problem. I first set the RAM to be OC because the default was 2133, and the motherboard did support up to 3200 if you OC, but after all the BSOD I put it back to the default and it all stopped. They were all memory related like : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL, etc but that was the most common, and many people pointed out that they could all be RAM related even though they point somewhere else. I had flashed the BIOS and everything and tried again with no avail. Messed with the voltage a little just because maybe the default wasn't good enough and it still didn't work. Any thoughts? I mean if I have too I'll stick at 2133 but that kinda just hurts knowing I could've saved some $$$.
  4. See this is what I mean. 2 different answers with no real explanation why. It kinda makes this hard tbh. I just dont want a 1050 because I'd be taking a 2 GB drop, but I'd rather not risk it if its a real problem. I mean my PSU isn't just some generic random one I found
  5. I was planning on a GTX 1060 and I think if I remember correctly by adding the wattage of everything and adding a Ryzen 7 2700X (just to see) the total W would only be around 305-310ish
  6. A lot of people say get a 500+ PSU just so you can add a good GPU later, but for my budget build, I bought a Corsair CX 450 W (80+ Bronze), and was wondering if I could upgrade from a Ryzen 3 2200 G later on and add a graphics card later. Some people say no, and some say yes depending on the reliability of the PSU. Would it be good enough?
  7. Okay so I've been posting alot lately. First about my personal PC, then if I should buy a craigslist one, then one about my new build, and that is where this continues. I did a semi-budget build (slightly higher end MB, wifi card instead of ethernet, 16 GB RAM, etc), but I got a Ryzen 3 2200G simply because everyone seems to love it even being an iGPU. I wasn't planning on OC anything other than the RAM because the default is 2400, and its 3000, however, I was planning on getting a separate graphics card later on once some go on sale, or just to get more out of it. What card should it to be to keep the price low, but to get the most out of the system, and not cause a huge bottleneck by the CPU? Also how do I make the default GPU the card instead of the integrated graphics? TL;DR need graphics card for Ryzen 3 2200G, not too expensive. How do I set it up? Also inb4 "why not get an intel and a cheap GPU?". Multiple benchmarks have shown why this is not worth it and I already have everything.
  8. Okay and one last thing I think. Alot of people say to flash BIOS before installing windows, but it says to install the newest chipset drivers before updating past the second BIOS update. So am I actually supposed to do it after installing windows instead of what some people recommend? Also can I use the same fat32 8GB USB for the windows install and BIOS Update?
  9. Now I know that I need the Drivers for LAN, chipset, etc. but what about the "Utilities section". Its under support for my motherboard, but I don't think even half of the things actually work with it. Like the Mystic Light, MSI Live, and a few others. It also has Realtek Audio, but isn't that default with a clean Windows 10 install?
  10. There's only been 5 updates according to the website and one of them says to update chipset before updating BIOS, and the only thing I don't understand is that it updates 'AGESA code'. I don't really know what that even means
  11. Recently I got a MSI B450M Pro-VDH motherboard and I was browsing the MSI drivers for it. There were the normal ones and the BIOS updates which was to be expected. However, I have a Ryzen 3 2200g in it and was wondering if I actually need to flash it. On the website it says recommended, online it says to only do it if you really need it, and some people say always do it. What are your thoughts? The CPU is 2nd Gen (I think...?), so the mobo automatically should support it right? I'm waiting on an SSD and wifi chip, so I haven't even powered the system on BTW. No data to risk losing except the motherboard which doesn't have flashback.
  12. I ended up getting the board you recommended new. Just gotta wait till Friday to start getting it assembled
  13. This is going to be a really stupid question but will I need an IO shield? I really understand all the major parts I need but little things like wiring and specific hardware I get confused about
  14. Same price actually as the one i originally posted
×